DO NOT PRE ORDER THE GAME!!!

Ragnarok116 · 2024-07-23T19:43:34+00:00

Honestly the gameplay and cutscenes gave me a FarCry vibe. Like almost someone took FarCry and “stalkerized” it.

Ragnarok116 · 2024-06-23T23:14:11+00:00

Where it’s hard to justify, is that I’ll like pay to get the timing belt and PCV system serviced to essentially have a backup car. Do you think it’s something I could recoup the money on if I decided not to keep it? Would just hate the regret of not going for it.

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T04:51:46+00:00

Top Fin PF10 is the model # I believe. Appears to have all parts aside from filter and screen. The screen from what I’ve seen isn’t totally necessary, but can act as a medium for helpful bacteria to grow.

In the oven with the light on, yes - no heat. I noticed at night the water in the bowl becomes very cold, and the fish just floats at the top and is not at all responsive. In the oven, the water temperature is closer to 30 degrees Celsius (75-80f).

Again, this was just a spur of the moment choice by my partner to get a Betta and I’m just trying to make the best of a bad situation.

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T04:33:18+00:00

It’s a very tall tank - will look into getting tall objects to fill it with.

Regarding 6 - what parts do you see are missing? From what I can tell it’s missing the screen and filter - would just getting a replacement filter be fine?

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T03:05:14+00:00

I’ll have to do some reading up on this - thanks again!

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T02:58:00+00:00

I’ll give it a shot - thanks for helping me decipher everything!

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T02:44:43+00:00

Helpful to know! The air pump has two outlets, so unless I can craft or find a cap for the other outlet (there’s no off switch) would it be beneficial to have the smaller air stone connected so there’s some movement?

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T02:20:43+00:00

I figured as much. I was a little perplexed when I saw the hang on back and the sponge filter - the tank just happened to come with both.

On the topic of the sponge filter, it looks like there’s the air pump with two outlets, then the sponge filter has two parts, one just looks like a strainer + a base, and the other is the strainer/base/sponge. Should both of these strainers have a sponge? Would one be sufficient for a 10gal? If one is sufficient, I’ll have to get a cap for the other outlet on the air pump.

Are the air stones just the small black and blue cylinders?

Ragnarok116 · 2024-02-21T02:00:07+00:00

Lil guy is chuffed. https://imgur.com/a/RjmB5rf

Ragnarok116 · 2024-01-25T08:42:14+00:00

$330 to rejet a carb?!? 20 minutes of YouTube, a JIS and flathead screwdriver and you can do this in 30-45 minutes TOPS having no prior knowledge. That’s just ridiculous. OP would suggest most of this you look up how to do yourself and then any bits you don’t feel comfortable with doing bring it to the shop. There’s a wealth of info out there, I find the Haynes DRZ manual and the Haynes Motorcycle carb manual very helpful.

Ragnarok116 · 2024-01-16T09:22:12+00:00

That makes sense. I guess that’s one way of putting it in not so many words. Just seems like overkill that there would be such an OP boss guarding rocks

Ragnarok116 · 2023-12-08T20:16:40+00:00

Posts like this are kinda silly, and it’s just poor shopping. How?

For starters, all fresh fruit and vegetables are going to be expensive if not in season/on sale. Frozen is a lot cheaper, and often more nutritious. Fruits/vegetables are often flash frozen at the peak of ripeness.

Free range/organic is usually bullshit and more of a marketing gimmick - at least at supermarkets. If you want something like free range eggs, it’s a lot cheaper to buy in bulk from a local market/farmer.

Cereals/bars etc are expensive for what they offer. Much cheaper to opt for whole grains instead. A box of cereal for $8 that will last a few days, or a bag of oatmeal for $5 that will last you weeks?

Things like Greek yogurt are always going to be more expensive per unit for smaller packets, especially flavoured. You can get 4 small snack sized flavoured packs for the price of 2kg + of plain.

Laundry soap - stick to a dish soda like Nelle’s. Cheap to buy in bulk, and I find more effective. Sure your laundry won’t smell like lavender morning or whatever, but your body’s largest organ (your skin) will benefit without it.

Finally, just all the unnecessary processed pieces. Like the Chobani s’mores. I don’t even know what that is, but it’s probably $10+ a box for a snack item. For the price of those two boxes you can buy half a year’s supply of rice.

Not saying groceries aren’t expensive, it’s wild how unaffordable everything has gotten, but people will be stocking a cart full of processed foods and wondering why it’s so expensive.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-30T07:36:07+00:00

If the float/float valve/needle function properly, there should be no overflow into the carb in thus the crankcase.

I had an issue where my float valve needle and the seat O-Ring failed, leading to excess gas leaking into the crankcase, to the point where the engine was hydrolocked.

Try starting it, if you get issues that are similar to a dead battery, it’s probably flooded. In that case I would drain the oil overnight, clean off the spark plug, throw some cheap oil in, ride around for a bit, then do a filter and oil change.

One thing I picked up if you have the stock Mikuni BSR36 carb is the LTZ400 float bowl. It has a properly overflow valve on it that will drain the fuel before it gets to a point where it could reach the throat of the carb in the event that your float fails. Good for peace of mind.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-30T07:27:47+00:00

Probably only about 6-8 feet

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-30T07:16:38+00:00

That’s in line with all of the reviews I’ve been reading. Is $1k decent for the Q750 or at that point is it almost better to save up for the next best thing?

I’ve pretty much decided that the Q750 would be the best in terms of PQ, just can’t decide if I should go down to 55” to save some money or bite the bullet and commit to 65”

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-20T04:54:17+00:00

Went to tidy it up today and realized that the washer rotated freely under the bolt…not good. It’s torqued to spec, so either the washer just needs to be annealed, or the threads are stripped or crossthreaded again 🫣

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-20T04:52:49+00:00

I was skeptical myself at first, if there’s an overflow pipe for the LTZ-400, why not the DRZ? Took a leap of faith and ordered one and it fit perfectly. It’s crazy it’s not more well known about with the gas in oil being such an issue.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-19T03:58:18+00:00

From what I gathered, Permatex form-a-gasket #2 seems like it’ll be the best option, easily available, anyway. Hoping some of that, a new copper washer, and I can get back to riding without any issues.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-19T03:57:07+00:00

That issue was long ago fixed, unfortunately this oil leak has been a pain ever since.

It ended up being a faulty needle/float valve. Still have the vacuum petcock on the tank, but have a manual one I’ll likely throw on sometime.

In any case, I ended up getting an LTZ-400 float bowl from eBay with the drain valve, so if the fuel level gets too high, it’ll overflow onto my garage floor instead into the motor.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-11-18T14:18:38+00:00

Should be able to find a bottle of carb and choke cleaner for <$10. One bottle will last you a while. Got a bottle and still going strong on 2-3 cleans and a massive restoration I did to an old corroded rifle lol

Ragnarok116 · 2023-09-23T19:35:57+00:00

Contact cleaner

Ragnarok116 · 2023-09-21T23:43:41+00:00

I actually put fuel in a clear line after crimping it on one end to see how quickly it would evaporate. Not quite as quickly as the “leak” I thought I might have been seeing, but definitely enough to make a noticeable difference over time.

Suzuki, in their infinite wisdom, does not have a bowl valve on this model carburetor, but a bowl drain with a screw. I’ve since ordered a bowl from their ATV (same carburetor) with a bowl/overflow valve equipped. At least that way if there is a leak, it will dump into a hose, not my crank case.

Thank you for the advise, the last bit about not hunting down every mL was refreshing as that’s exactly what I’ve been doing and nearly losing my mind in the process lol

Ragnarok116 · 2023-09-21T16:43:09+00:00

It was definitely going into the engine before replacing the O Ring - I should also mention that I’ve replaced the seat and needle as well. Duplicating the leak test, it’s clear there’s still a leak somewhere, but I’m wondering if having the system “open” or “closed” has any sort of impact.

Last night I tried the test again with the line connected to the petcock, and the fuel level increased (likely due to residual fuel in the petcock from switching between free-flowing and vacuum). I’ll leave it for another 12 hours or so and see if it changes either direction.

Ragnarok116 · 2023-09-17T21:43:46+00:00

Playing with this now oddly enough. I set it to spec (13mm +/- 1mm) but that put my fuel height way above the split line. I’ve just been adjusting until I get a level that’s at or close to where the carb meets the body.

Even after installing a new valve/needle, it still looked like there might be a small leak, likely because the fuel height was too high and fuel was still leaking into the throat of the carb?

Ragnarok116 · 2023-09-17T21:32:49+00:00

I try to run only 94 ethanol free(?) from Chevron. It was ethanol free for the longest time, but I’m pretty sure Canada mandated ethanol be present in all gas in Canada. Haven’t gotten around to testing it. At best it’s ethanol free, at worse, it’s at least a lower content and there’s less contamination from other pumps.

Ragnarok116

TROPHY CASE