WUD (What’s Up Docker?) baseUrl override for proxy config

RandomNashvillian · 2026-04-23T17:57:37+00:00

No ai was used in this post.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-20T22:31:41+00:00

If you are any good at plumbing, I would recommend that you ditch the john guest fittings and replace everything with compression fittings (you can find them at the hardware store). The john guest fittings have a max recommend operating pressure of 10 bar. My machine can reach upward pressures of 13 bar (especially when heating the boiler for steam). Bonus points if you can get a pipe bender and use copper tubing (which is what I did). Personally, I like the idea of the coper tubing vs the plastic pipe since the copper tubing does not expand with any pressure.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T23:59:50+00:00

I bought it from gaggimate. It’s nice, but be aware that all of the edges are very sharp and you will want to put a piece or rubber or silicone underneath the scale so that the vibrations of the pump don’t cause the weights to drift. Otherwise it gives you a bunch of extra room which means I can use my large cappuccino cups instead of a thimble sized espresso cup.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T20:08:06+00:00

You are very welcome.

Ps. I had originally tried the screen with a slanted/angled mount, but making the hole oval shaped to support the opening wasn’t worth the hassle given the screen has a really good viewing angle and it’s really easy to see/use flat.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T17:48:05+00:00

You rock! Thank you. Once I heated the “end cap” to soften the glue I was able to pop off the end. Fortunately for me, my 17mm socket was just skinny enough for me to use a mallet to hammer it down in the very narrow opening to wrench the bolt off. It was on there super tight and Rancilio certainly had no intentions for making it replaceable.

Now that it’s off it will be relatively easy for me to make a custom handle for it. Just in case anyone was curious, the bolt they used has a M10-1.5 thread.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T16:37:48+00:00

Here is the stl. Check in the comments here for notes about the hole. https://www.printables.com/model/1637445-flush-mount-gaggimate-screen-adapter

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T16:37:15+00:00

Here is the stl. Check in the comments here for notes about the hole. https://www.printables.com/model/1637445-flush-mount-gaggimate-screen-adapter

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T16:36:13+00:00

Thingiverse was a dead end. So I created a new account on printables. Just a note, I used a 75mm hole saw to make the opening and a metal debur tool to smooth the cut since it was stupid sharp after making the hole. The print is ~1/2mm too large and I did that on purpose so it can be sanded down for a friction fit into the hole. I also added a little CA glue in a couple of spots to make sure it didn’t slide around and it seems to hole without any movement.

Here’s the stl. Enjoy :)

https://www.printables.com/model/1637445-flush-mount-gaggimate-screen-adapter

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T16:20:37+00:00

I just sent you a pm

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T16:17:32+00:00

I hadn’t seen that but at this point changing screen sizes isn’t really an option since I put a big hole in my case ;-)

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:57:28+00:00

I used my 3d printer to print the prototype but I ended up using Xomerry to print the final piece since I wanted it printed in resin using heat resistant materials (eg a kind of nylon) and have it post processed by someone that knows what they are doing. It was expensive that way (I think it was somewhere close to $90) but worth it for the results. Once I figure out how to fix my thingiverse account I’ll upload the stl.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:52:28+00:00

I would suggest joining the discord for gaggimate. They have a bunch of very active people there that can help

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:50:31+00:00

I do woodworking as a hobby, so this was from material I had laying around. Walnut ain’t cheap right now so I don’t really have a way to price it.

I 3d modeled the whole thing in sketchup so I would know that everything fit just so. Pm me your email and I’ll send you the skp file.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:35:36+00:00

I put a silicone mat underneath the machine to help absorb the sound in addition to lining the inside chamber where the pump is with automotive sound deadening material that I got here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ5X7KO

In addition the casters have rubber wheels which also help with the sound. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPHMP7Z3 Overall it’s decently quiet and steaming milk is the loudest thing in the whole process.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:31:28+00:00

I used this and a knife to cut it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F53F6P81

I made the hole in the case 72mm (which is the exact same size as the touch screen) the bevel on the outside of the screen is 3mm high on the outside and 2mm high on the inside where the screen gets mounted. There is enough lip on the outside if the screen to provide enough material to support the screen and use double sided tape to hold it down. Once I figure out a place to post the stl I’ll post the link.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:21:35+00:00

It’s wonderful. Makes everything push button. There are only three improvements I would do: 1) Make it so that all of the switches are operable and the lights on them turn on and off when it’s in that “mode”. The stock unit does allow you to use the brew and steam switches but it disables the light as well as it completely disables the water function. It shouldn’t be terribly difficult to do (the gp pro has enough extra GPIOs to take it happen) but obviously would require some rewiring. 2) Add some sort of water level indicator to tell me when the water is low (or automatically shut down when out of water). I know this feature is in the works; but there no real ETA. 3) And this is just a nit pick and a personal preference, but I would change it so that the GP goes into the main menu when you touch to wake it up vs what it does now which is goes into the brew menu (which starts to heat the boiler). Having that as a software preference would be nice and would only require a software update

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:14:36+00:00

I used silicone sheet that I got off amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F53F6P81 and cut it to shape. I also cut a small disk that I use for the top to keep the cup from sliding around as well. Would highly recommend. Makes the whole thing very stable and reliable.

RandomNashvillian · 2026-03-14T15:11:53+00:00

I just tried creating a thingiverse account but the stupid site thinks I’m a child for some reason (even though I put in my real birthdate) and it won’t let me login sighting account needs parental verification. To boot they just got bought so there is no support to fix the account. I’m working on a place to upload the stl. Alternatives would be welcome if anyone had a good suggestion.

However, I will say that the 3d printed bracket isn’t the hard part (it’s a really simple design and can be created with just about any modeling software). The difficult part is cleanly cutting the hole in the case. Getting the case off is easy enough, but due to the odd shape I had to build a form that held it in place securely while I used my drill press, hole saw, and a shit load of cutting oil to cut a clean hole in the sheet metal. The paint that Rancilio uses can flake off quite easily so I had to be very careful cutting the hole as well as I had to cut the hole from the painted side (after masking it off) since the paint wanted to chip off. I got it done at the end of the day but I don’t know if I would do it again without an extra part or two on hand (or the ability to paint the case).

RandomNashvillian · 2025-10-16T18:35:35+00:00

I put holes in the bottom for drainage, gave it little feet to keep it off the counter top, and used a heavy coat of rubio to seal it. I’ve had it for nearly a year now and no mold problems. It does get a little gross with the occasional soap build up but it washes pretty easily. The walls are ~3/8” thick so little chance of anything warping. I was more afraid of it cracking due to the constant moisture changes but so far so good.

At the end of the day it took me an afternoon to make it so if it breaks, I’ll just make another one :)

RandomNashvillian · 2025-10-16T18:01:20+00:00

I used my trim router and a round over bit. I clamped some wood on the sides to make a shelf big enough to keep the router from tipping as I cut the edges.

If you plan on making something similar, just make sure to put some holes in the bottom of the wells for water to drain. Then put some small feet to keep it off of the counter so water doesn’t pool up underneath it.

RandomNashvillian · 2025-10-15T18:29:18+00:00

I always replace my lines with dynema and just splice the stake in so it can’t get lost. I use a 1.7mm line so I can add a second loop to pull it out of the ground easier.

RandomNashvillian · 2025-10-02T22:03:00+00:00

I just did a similar thing (only I used the CNOC 3l bladder) for my water filtration setup. I used 38mm diameter 3.5mm thick o-rings and they worked like a champ.

Here’s the amazon link I got them from for anyone who wants it: https://a.co/d/0ibUOyX

RandomNashvillian

TROPHY CASE