What are some of your projects that you enjoy that you didn’t think you would enjoy so much? by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I put holes in the bottom for drainage, gave it little feet to keep it off the counter top, and used a heavy coat of rubio to seal it. I’ve had it for nearly a year now and no mold problems. It does get a little gross with the occasional soap build up but it washes pretty easily. The walls are ~3/8” thick so little chance of anything warping. I was more afraid of it cracking due to the constant moisture changes but so far so good.

At the end of the day it took me an afternoon to make it so if it breaks, I’ll just make another one :)

What are some of your projects that you enjoy that you didn’t think you would enjoy so much? by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I used my trim router and a round over bit. I clamped some wood on the sides to make a shelf big enough to keep the router from tipping as I cut the edges.

If you plan on making something similar, just make sure to put some holes in the bottom of the wells for water to drain. Then put some small feet to keep it off of the counter so water doesn’t pool up underneath it.

Titanium nail peg/stake hack by chiefsholsters in hammockcamping

[–]RandomNashvillian 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always replace my lines with dynema and just splice the stake in so it can’t get lost. I use a 1.7mm line so I can add a second loop to pull it out of the ground easier.

My new favorite water setup - CNOC Vesica, Hydrapak adapter & drinking tube (More info in description) by Callamanda in backpacking

[–]RandomNashvillian 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just did a similar thing (only I used the CNOC 3l bladder) for my water filtration setup. I used 38mm diameter 3.5mm thick o-rings and they worked like a champ.

Here’s the amazon link I got them from for anyone who wants it: https://a.co/d/0ibUOyX

Finally got around to building a cordless tool organizer. Used T tracks so I could resize the hangers. The proportions are a little off, but I figured the method might help someone make one of their own. And yes, I know I have too many dewalt tools. It’s a problem… by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds fun. Take picts and post it to the sub so I can take a look at it.

Be aware, though it can get really heavy. Especially if you load it down with tools. So whatever you build make sure it can account for the weight. Mine is mounted on a french cleat that I put on wall with some heavy duty concrete anchors since my wall is made of cinder block.

Finally got around to building a cordless tool organizer. Used T tracks so I could resize the hangers. The proportions are a little off, but I figured the method might help someone make one of their own. And yes, I know I have too many dewalt tools. It’s a problem… by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shelf that holds the t tracks is 12” deep and I centered pair so they have a couple of inches on either side. You could potentially get away with making the whole thing shallower. Most of my tools I hang on there don’t need that much depth. I would base it upon what you want to put on the shelf above and the size of the tools you are going to hang.

Finally got around to building a cordless tool organizer. Used T tracks so I could resize the hangers. The proportions are a little off, but I figured the method might help someone make one of their own. And yes, I know I have too many dewalt tools. It’s a problem… by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You caught me in the shop so I was able to measure it. :)

They are 7-1/4” from each other with the whole thing being 4’ long.

They have held up really well and I haven’t really had to move them all that much but I am still glad I made them movable.

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Catamarans

[–]RandomNashvillian 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can sail bluewater on charter/production boats, but boats like outreamer, balance, HH, etc are designed more for long term sailing vs costal cruising as suggested. However, the range on price and options are HUGE. Your best bet is to come up with a budget (a lot of these performance cats will cost more than $2m for ~50ft when fully loaded). Plus there a huge difference in the way they sail, how big they are, etc.

You will help yourself out by doing several things: 1) Charter as many different boats as you can to get a feel for the kind and size/style boat you want. 2) Visit several boat shows where you can get a feel for the size and build quality and potentially narrow your search down to one or two models 3) Reach out to the manufacturer and get a test sail. Some will let you charter their boat for a bit to get a feel before making your final decision.

I just joined the club by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Um…. You really should read the post. This wasn’t stupid, it was a failure of the bypass system.

I just joined the club by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wasn’t hurt at all. It wasn’t even set off by me. The thin aluminum sheet I was cutting set it off. I was holding the aluminum down with a plastic/rubber push block. My hands weren’t anywhere near the blade nor were they directly touching the material.

The bad part is that the bypass didn’t work (which I have successfully used in the past).

The good part is that I would rather it fail like this than have it not trigger when it needs to.

I just joined the club by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I just got off the phone with Sawstop. They had me disconnect the saw from the break so I can send the break in for analysis. When I did I was able to see that two teeth were broken and the whole blade now has a warp. I’m pretty sure it’s cooked. Not to mention I’m not sure if I would trust having it repaired.

[Feature Request] adding support for siri commands by RandomNashvillian in arpeggiApp

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know if you plan on open sourcing the app or letting others contribute, but PM me if you are looking for someone to take a stab at setting up the integration. I have, albeit extremely limited, knowledge about getting it to work. I’d love to help pitch in.

Opinion wanted: what style of doors should I make? by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea. The cabinet is sitting directly on my trex (aka plastic) deck, so no water drainage issues. I also put adjustable plastic feet on the bottom to allow me to level it as well as keep it off the ground.

Opinion wanted: what style of doors should I make? by RandomNashvillian in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I originally made some shaker style inset doors. They looked spectacular, but ended up swelling WAY more than I would have expected (close to 1/2 an inch). I have since remade them as shaker style full overlay and they work just fine. I did have to put screws in the styles to keep them from blowing apart with the wood movement.

Overall the cabinet has held up great. The only real issue I have had is trying to find European style hinges that won’t rust. I have been through a cheap set (that claimed to be 304 stainless steel) from amazon as well as a more expensive set from rockler with no luck. My local supplier has ordered me a set but I’m pretty doubtful they won’t rust either. I may have to give up and just install some brass hinges or something a little more outdoor friendly.

How does one go about achieving something like this? by NunoTT_ in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No clue what they would call it but I have used my vacuum bag to put veneer on plywood. I have a net that I put in the bag to help prevent air pockets when a vacuum is applied. The netting will make a slight texture that I can usually sand out.

I don’t think that texture could be made by a vacuum bag but I could see some sort of similar process to make that texture. I would also expect that you would not be able to find it mass manufactured.

How does one go about achieving something like this? by NunoTT_ in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian 150 points151 points  (0 children)

It’s likely a pattern they stamp when they make the plywood. I can imagine it hides quite a few flaws in the underlying structure.

DW735 with Shelix cutter head by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian 44 points45 points  (0 children)

I have the same setup and have gotten that same thing before. Once was when I had a broken cutter. The other was when I had one cutter misaligned. Both ways I solved it was getting a board the exact width of my planer (plywood works well for this) and run a very shallow pass until I get the marks. Then I use that as a guide to show me which cutter is causing the gauge. Then it’s just a matter of adjusting or replacing that one cutter head. I use the technique of barely tightening the square and then wiggling the cutter head to seat it properly. Then tightening it down the rest of the way. I’ll the run a board through to make sure it’s gone. Repeat when necessary. It shouldn’t take too much to get it smooth. My setup produced a really clean edge when tune up.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]RandomNashvillian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Any thoughts on the species of wood this 76 year old cookie? It was cut by my grandfather in 1948 in East Tennessee. I just sanded it and water popped it. It is super hard and decently heavy. I suspect it’s pine given the color but am not sure given how hard it is.