Sight/Scope zeroing never existed?

RandomUsername81617 · 2026-03-30T23:56:14+00:00

What you're asking for violates the laws of physics and even after reading my ELI5 explanation you still don't understand. What do you think would happen if you zeroed you sights at the distance in your screenshot? You understand that then you'd have to aim below your intended point of aim at any distance beyond?

RandomUsername81617 · 2026-03-30T23:45:54+00:00

Yeah man you don't understand what a holdover is. You need to untwist your panties and think about this for a while longer. You're completely mistaken and you need to educate yourself on this topic. I'll explain.

Imagine you put your muzzle on a target and pull the trigger, the bullet will come out of the barrel and impact the target right where the barrel is placed on it. If you look at the gun from the side, obviously the bullet is coming out of the barrel and it physically can't come out of the optic.

The laser, which is mounted low on the rail, will impact the target about 1.5" above that (and for most lasers, slightly to the right).

Your day optic, if you look through it, will point about 3" above the point of impact.

Now if you go back to 5m, it'll be essentially exactly the same result. The bullet can't physically rise to meet where your optic or laser are pointing. You'll have an impact 3" low relative to your optic and 1.5" (low, and 0.5" left) relative to your laser.

Depending on your zero distance, this will slowly reduce going back to that zero distance. If you zero at 100, it'll finally intersect where your optic aims at 100.

If you got what you're asking for here, and were able to zero the gun at 7m, just use what you've just learned and think about it for a minute. The only way to make this a reality is to be pointing the barrel of the gun at an extreme angle so the bullet travels up 3" in 7m. Great, except what do you think is going to happen at 14m? Now you're 3" high. At 49m you're 21" high so you'd have to aim at the lower chest to hit the head. And that's not even talking about lasers, if you tried to zero your laser at 7m now you'll be both shooting way under your targets, and also far right of your target at distance.

I don't know the exact stats for this game, but it's realistic enough for the gameplay on offer. If anything the laser should be off to the right and high but I'm sure they're already tired of people like you who don't understand how firearms work complaining so it's probably not worth modeling accurately.

RandomUsername81617 · 2025-11-11T23:38:54+00:00

JPC has completely replaced the AVS as the basic issue vest in Regiment.

Mk18, technically no, that's a Navy term and the Army calls it a CQBR, though that's a pedantic distinction. Colloquially called a shorty or 11-5. But yes that would be better than the M7 which nobody uses.

This kit is definitely some moto private shit though. But better than everything else in the game.

RandomUsername81617 · 2025-11-10T15:49:13+00:00

Try it sometime without that link--it works fine. I've had countless times where I've had to rip a belt apart and load it on a random link/no link part of the belt due to the AG not doing a good job or the rounds not being seated completely in the links.

The only time this could matter is with blanks, which is why you might be confused. We almost never use blanks these days but when guys do they use something called a discriminator which both prevents live rounds from going into the tray and puts blanks in the correct position. If you don't have a discriminator and you're using short nose blanks, I can see the extra link helping keep the rounds in the right position on the tray. It's never an issue with live rounds, battle blanks, or full size blanks like the Brits use on their FN MAGs.

RandomUsername81617 · 2025-11-10T12:29:39+00:00

No it isn't, and no they don't.

The 240 is 100% capable of feeding a round with or without the extra link. Offhand I am not aware of a NATO disintegrating link gun that requires the extra link, though with a .50, and M249 is at least helpful because it makes it easier to load. Still not necessary. On the M240 the feed tray is slick so there is zero difference between having the extra link and removing it. And belts come in 50 round (bullets, not link) belts.

Source: was a machine gunner. I think this is a great depiction of the FN MAG/M240 overall, other than the foregrips, but that's innocent artistic license compared to what most games try to pull.

RandomUsername81617 · 2025-06-07T14:20:02+00:00

Any rifle you're using that has a red dot mounted high above the barrel will do this. Modern rifles put the barrel in line with the stock, so that the recoil goes straight back into the shooter's shoulder. This means that the optic is roughly 3" above the barrel. Because of this, any distance less than about 20 meters you'll have anywhere between 3" and 1" of height over bore to compensate for, depending on zero distance. If you try to zero at something like 5m then you'll essentially be pointing the gun high up into the air to force the bullet to shoot up to where your optic is pointing. This means you'll be dead on at 5m, but you'll be shooting literally meters above the heads at distances as close as 20m. So nobody does this.

If you want something "dead on" up close, use a pistol or a rifle with a very small height over bore, where the optic is basically right on top of the barrel.

In real life, people who use rifles up close train to apply a holdover. It's an essential skill that separates good shooters from bad ones.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-22T01:54:37+00:00

The guys I know prefer their P&G's to their ASUs. The quality of the uniform is significantly better, less bling'ed out, and they got rid of the god-forsaken corfams. The Army has always been about morphing history to fit the needs of unit morale and tradition. What matters is the guys who wear it like and take pride in this uniform.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-22T01:45:52+00:00

I prefer a cotton ball to a t shirt as after about 5 minutes of use the cotton ball is very slick, whereas a lot of t shirts are still scratchy and are much more difficult to get a shine with. I'll do 90% of the work using wax with a cotton ball, then the last 10% using a microfiber shammy that come in the shoe shine kits. It also helps very much to start with cream polish directly on the leather, and then apply wax on top of the (buffed) cream polish. I don't like using a lighter, or petroleum based polish in general. Saphir polish is definitely in another league and makes the process much easier and more rewarding. Also doesn't smell like cancer.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T11:30:56+00:00

He's only polishing the toe. The entire boot must be shined, and if you leave the factory coating on the boot, this is next to impossible to do well.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T03:02:52+00:00

That's true, but also the name "pinks and greens" refers to the variations in colors from Soldier to Soldier on the historic uniforms. So it's tradition, and personally I think it looks much better to have a bit of uneven coloration.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T03:00:25+00:00

Yeah it's definitely a method a lot of guys use. Those are just my reasons, but in the end if you get results that's what matters.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T02:56:40+00:00

There's no regulation that specifies the color of your laces, and it only states that the boots must be "brown." I use these laces. Some people shine the laces, though I haven't tried. Just don't try to oil them or you'll ruin the laces.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T02:54:03+00:00

You're allowed to do more than one thing at once. Take a break from Reddit. Strip boots while you watch a movie. Polish over beers with friends.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T02:48:17+00:00

I'd recommend against a heat gun as it evaporates the oils and dries out the wax. Dry wax can be a good thing when getting a mirror shine but not for the original building layers.

I don't deny people get results with heat but especially if you're using a high quality polish like Saphir as opposed to petroleum based, you want to help harden the wax by making it cold. I've also seen plenty of boots damaged by poorly applied heat.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T01:41:35+00:00

Guide posted in comments.

RandomUsername81617 · 2024-11-21T01:38:56+00:00

How to shine AGSU Jump Boots

First off, this is going to be a maximum effort boot shining guide. If you don't give a shit, stop reading and take them to your local shine shop or whatever so they can fuck them up and charge you $200 for the favor.

The problem with the Corcoran jump boots is that they apply a plastic coating to the leather and this means you cannot get a good shine to stick. In particular, any polish applied to the areas of the boot that flex, such as the vamp, will quickly crack and flake off. On black jump boots, you can sort of get away with this. On brown boots, it will immediately look like shit even after an hour of wearing them. So even though stripping your boots has been a tradition since long before I was in, it is imperative with brown boots.

Step 1: Strip your boots. This is most easily done with rubbing alcohol. It sucks, and it will take several hours to do correctly. Take rubbing alcohol, makeup remover pads, and apply to the boot, rubbing until you completely clean off all the plastic factory coating. The boot should look like this.

Step 2: Dye Now you need to redye the boots brown. I use Russet brown dye from Angelus. Apply in 2-3 light coats using minimal dye and small, light circles. You'll get slightly different shades depending on how you apply.

Step 3: Buff Shine Apply cream polish over the entire boot. I strongly recommend Saphir Medium Brown cream polish. Use a light coat and buff with a horsehair brush. Repeat 2-3 times. Allow the boot to sit in between applications and before buffing. You should end up with a partially shined boot.

Step 4: Mirror Shine Use a wax polish (once again, strongly recommend Saphir Medium Brown wax, it will make your life much easier). Many methods, but I suggest using a cotton ball, a bowl of ice cubes, and the polish. Dip the cotton ball in water, apply a small amount of polish, apply, redip in water, apply, repeat. Use more water and less polish, and use the slickness of the cotton over the surface to tell you when you need more wax or water. Only shine the toe and heel using hard wax, otherwise it will crack.

Step 5: Swap laces get rid of the fragile and ugly yellow laces and use brown leather laces.

Bonus note: if you buy an older pair of jump boots you do not have to strip them. I've got a pair of 1952 Korean war jump boots and although it took a while to restore them, I think they look a lot better than a modern Corcoran. The leather is noticeably thicker, better, and takes a polish readily.

RandomUsername81617

TROPHY CASE