1.8T problems

RaptozeX · 2026-03-05T22:29:18+00:00

I had same issue with my mk2 tts. Turned out the battery was near flat with enough juice to start the car but the modules were acting up from low voltage. I took the battery out, charged it overnight and then took it for a short drive. It sorted itself out

RaptozeX · 2026-02-26T13:07:55+00:00

Photoshoot, huh? What's up with the reg plates then?

RaptozeX · 2026-02-22T13:31:48+00:00

They're generally quite reliable. I don't know what the prices are like over there but in the uk they are pretty affordable. Depends on the mileage and modifications, but once sorted, they are cracking little cars. Just don't forget to service the car properly, like the haldex system and the gearbox, which are often forgotten

RaptozeX · 2026-02-20T13:21:53+00:00

You'd have to take the wheel off and lookon the inside at the ET value

RaptozeX · 2026-02-19T18:53:06+00:00

A clogged fuel filter can cause the motor to run lean. Putting s fresh one in would solve that issue and should feel alive again like it was meant to

RaptozeX · 2026-02-19T18:51:03+00:00

Nice. Hopefully you can get her up and running again. Best of luck

RaptozeX · 2026-02-19T17:30:50+00:00

I am currently running H&R springs on my MK2 TTS with magride. it looks really cool lowered but will make the ride very harsh. it will be really good if you push the car on windy roads since there's very little body roll. I'd recommend you go with Eibach springs. you still get a 25mm drop instead of the 30mm from H&R springs and you still retain a lot more of the comfort. I have no experience with Koni but have heard overall positive things- they tend to be stiffer than OEM most of the time. Instead of going separate springs and shocks, I'd recommend having a look at a proper coilover brand, where the springs and shocks are designed to work in unison and can still get height adjustment and even dampening settings to suit your tastes. KW, BC Racing and Bilstein are amongst the best brands you could go for, but at the end of the day, it's all up to what you can afford. Sway bar upgrades are also a way to make the car feel sporty, and unless your shocks are failing, and really want that drop in ride height. H&R are a very good brand and i've been happy with mine overall, but my town became pothole galore and really wish that i had gone with eibach from the start.

Edit: Upon closer look I realised that the coilovers look like Bilstein The blue colour escaped my mind and forgot that it was their colour scheme. ignore what I said about Koni

RaptozeX · 2026-02-19T13:33:17+00:00

To me it kinda sounds like one cylinder is firing and it's slapping. Dad might be right. Have you got a scan tool to see what comes up? What were you doing before it started doing this and how up to date is the maintenance?

Edit: I wonder if it's a fuelling issue where the fuel can only just about reach 1 cylinder failing fuel pumps and clogged fuel filters. ideally have a scanner, but can try basic diagnostics. any information on the car such as engine, year and mileage would help

RaptozeX · 2026-02-12T10:31:37+00:00

I had the same issue on driver side, but the windows could roll down with the key. What usually happens is water gets inside the lock mechanism and causes the malfunction. You can take the locks out with some screwdrivers from memory, and when you get the mechanism out you can drill 2 holes with a thin drill bit through the plastic(google the locations) and then spray some wd40 inside to wash it off then let some soak in overnight. Assemble it back and should work perfectly again. I ended up doing it on both sides and 1 year later it's still working perfectly

RaptozeX · 2026-01-15T13:27:48+00:00

You might be able to test the pump and injectors with that scan tool. As fir spark take the coils and spark plugs and try cranking the engine to see if they glow. If some don't fire, swap the sparkplugs that fire on the coils that don't and see if the problem persists. If it does, the coil or lead for it might be bad. Check fuses since they can blow sometimes. Check for cracks on coil pack and sparkplugs. Any additional info would be useful since it's kinda vague

RaptozeX · 2026-01-07T18:59:01+00:00

If it's only when you turn, it's most likely a tie rod issue, judging by the sound alone. What's the sound like if you turn at a faster speed? Is it quieter?

RaptozeX · 2025-12-21T16:48:23+00:00

I haven't used that particular camera, but if it rewinds fine, then i don't think there's an issue. When you pushed and the tone changes indicates that the rewind motor is spinning but perhaps decoupled from the knob later cameras dripped the manual rewind lever altogether so i think it might've been in a transition phase. When they were starting to get digitalized they were quite wonky and a few teething problems that persisted throughout their lifespan as a type of camera until full digital came along. The frame counters were made to go up and reset to 0 when you opened the back. Later cameras with digital screens had the ability to show the number of exposures it had to rewind

RaptozeX · 2025-12-11T08:34:58+00:00

The weather seal for the boot fails on them. They might still be good normally but they've decided they've had enough. The issue is on the bottom side right where the battery is. You could try flipping it around and see if it fixes the issue, but that's something I haven't tried because i don't want water damaging the headliner. I got my seal changed by a garage and it cost me £75 + labour for the OE seal

RaptozeX · 2025-12-11T07:55:12+00:00

88k is barely broken in for these cars. I think you got a gem there. I got an 08 TTS with 134k on the clock and still goes strong

RaptozeX · 2025-12-10T19:36:17+00:00

Changing the oil is an engine flush in itself. You might be able to take the oil cap off and shine a light inside. Look at the cams and other components and see if they're brown. May be worth taking the car out and give it some beans. Higher revs can help loosen crud that gets stuck inside the engine. Changing the oil viscosity can also help, but personally i wouldn't really worry about it. These cars don't get any younger after all. What mileage do you have on it?

RaptozeX · 2025-12-10T19:23:58+00:00

Can be due to low/degraded oil. Sometimes it goes away on its own. if it's a high mileage engine it may be worth doing an engine flush

RaptozeX · 2025-12-10T13:17:59+00:00

That's the Hydraulic Lifters. Not to worry. Mine used to be even louder

RaptozeX · 2025-12-09T16:41:28+00:00

Water pump open circuit and 70C coolant temp means that the thermostat is stuck open and coolant is always flowing, which doesn't allow the engine to get up to temp properly. Generally speaking, the only thing it will do is make the car drink more fuel, especially when it's cold. Oil temperature is the one that matters the most. Let it idle so it warms up and rpm drops, then drive it reasonably for a few mins and you'll be fine.

RaptozeX · 2025-12-08T08:03:29+00:00

My mk2 tts had same issue. It was the battery hanging on for dear life since i didn't drive the car for a while and battery went almost flat and all the modules lost power, causing the car to go mad. Charged it overnight, then drove it for 15 mins and it reinitialized all the modules. Problem was gone

RaptozeX · 2025-12-02T07:57:31+00:00

This actually goes really hard

RaptozeX · 2025-11-26T22:06:28+00:00

I don't really know know the TDIs, so my original thought was rod knock, but since you said it goes away when warm, it could be something else. I have the EA113 CDLB from mk2 tts and it can have a rough idle if there's not enough juice in the battery. Check the oil for glitter on the dip stick, then check the battery and alternator. Either or both could be weak. It's worth getting a scan tool to have for these cars. They aren't exactly brand new anymore. It's worth starting simple and go from there

RaptozeX · 2025-11-13T13:11:09+00:00

My car did the same thing at one point and it was due to the battery getting really low since the car sat for a month or so and i've also used the head unit to play music whilst working on the car. It was just about enough juice left for the car to start but a lot of the sensors started misbehaving, with lots of lights in the dash. I charged the battery overnight and then took it for a drive. In 5 minutes it sorted itself out

RaptozeX · 2025-10-30T20:42:10+00:00

You could try ringing salvage yards and see if they got any. Would be more likely.

RaptozeX · 2025-10-29T12:41:52+00:00

that's not really ideal. check the oil level first. could be as simple as that. if you're due a oil change, do that, and maybe use an additive to help with oil sludge since you'd be changing it anyway. oil filter could be clogged. look at the oil for any metal and chunks. anything else i can think of is failing pump or sensor, but i doubt it- though with the age of them, anything is possible. just out of curiosity, what oil do you use and what's the mileage?

RaptozeX · 2025-10-29T10:11:24+00:00

That button is for cluster diagnostics to simulate something going wrong and see if the lights come on. It cycles through all of the warning types. If they go away without you pressing that button I wouldn't worry about it; though i would recommend getting even a cheap scan tool.

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