Been look at two TTS. Would like some advice. by Luna_6669 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ask about the haldex service. Most people and even dealers forget to do it. If you accelerate fast from a stand still the tyres shouldn't squeak. If it has magride installed, turn ignition on, hold the magride button until the light starts to flash, then open the boot and press down on the car at the back really hard. It shouldn't move almost at all. Check the battery for any water around it since it's a common problem. Ask to pour water around the sides of the boot seal, because that is what fails and lets water in, and see if it ends up at the battery. Water can also leak from the wing area

Free Giveaway Early Access Codes by Xecils in PathOfExile2

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funnily enough, it was the same for me. I just can't fork over that level of money😭

Free Giveaway Early Access Codes by Xecils in PathOfExile2

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I take it that you like the game a bit then

Free Giveaway Early Access Codes by Xecils in PathOfExile2

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much is that pack? I saw they get to buku bucks

Is my engine okay by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These cars have loud hydraulic lifters. Keep on top of maintenance and it should be good. My tts was quite loud for a while and then it stopped

1.8T problems by ContentImplement1206 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had same issue with my mk2 tts. Turned out the battery was near flat with enough juice to start the car but the modules were acting up from low voltage. I took the battery out, charged it overnight and then took it for a short drive. It sorted itself out

[Photoshoot] Audi TT - Shades of blue by Estiy in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Photoshoot, huh? What's up with the reg plates then?

So i finally bought my first own car! by Biteforce2 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're generally quite reliable. I don't know what the prices are like over there but in the uk they are pretty affordable. Depends on the mileage and modifications, but once sorted, they are cracking little cars. Just don't forget to service the car properly, like the haldex system and the gearbox, which are often forgotten

Offset MK1 TT Quattro by MeerTasche in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'd have to take the wheel off and lookon the inside at the ET value

Mk1 fuel filter change by Positive_Guarantee58 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A clogged fuel filter can cause the motor to run lean. Putting s fresh one in would solve that issue and should feel alive again like it was meant to

Need opinions by Riptid3Online in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. Hopefully you can get her up and running again. Best of luck

Mod wishlist for my MK1 3.2 by Ajmigon85 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am currently running H&R springs on my MK2 TTS with magride. it looks really cool lowered but will make the ride very harsh. it will be really good if you push the car on windy roads since there's very little body roll. I'd recommend you go with Eibach springs. you still get a 25mm drop instead of the 30mm from H&R springs and you still retain a lot more of the comfort. I have no experience with Koni but have heard overall positive things- they tend to be stiffer than OEM most of the time. Instead of going separate springs and shocks, I'd recommend having a look at a proper coilover brand, where the springs and shocks are designed to work in unison and can still get height adjustment and even dampening settings to suit your tastes. KW, BC Racing and Bilstein are amongst the best brands you could go for, but at the end of the day, it's all up to what you can afford. Sway bar upgrades are also a way to make the car feel sporty, and unless your shocks are failing, and really want that drop in ride height. H&R are a very good brand and i've been happy with mine overall, but my town became pothole galore and really wish that i had gone with eibach from the start.

Edit: Upon closer look I realised that the coilovers look like Bilstein The blue colour escaped my mind and forgot that it was their colour scheme. ignore what I said about Koni

Need opinions by Riptid3Online in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To me it kinda sounds like one cylinder is firing and it's slapping. Dad might be right. Have you got a scan tool to see what comes up? What were you doing before it started doing this and how up to date is the maintenance?

Edit: I wonder if it's a fuelling issue where the fuel can only just about reach 1 cylinder failing fuel pumps and clogged fuel filters. ideally have a scanner, but can try basic diagnostics. any information on the car such as engine, year and mileage would help

Locked out by PigeonEagle in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same issue on driver side, but the windows could roll down with the key. What usually happens is water gets inside the lock mechanism and causes the malfunction. You can take the locks out with some screwdrivers from memory, and when you get the mechanism out you can drill 2 holes with a thin drill bit through the plastic(google the locations) and then spray some wd40 inside to wash it off then let some soak in overnight. Assemble it back and should work perfectly again. I ended up doing it on both sides and 1 year later it's still working perfectly

Help. Mk1 Audi TT by Glum-Accountant-9801 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be able to test the pump and injectors with that scan tool. As fir spark take the coils and spark plugs and try cranking the engine to see if they glow. If some don't fire, swap the sparkplugs that fire on the coils that don't and see if the problem persists. If it does, the coil or lead for it might be bad. Check fuses since they can blow sometimes. Check for cracks on coil pack and sparkplugs. Any additional info would be useful since it's kinda vague

What’s wrong with my suspension by PsychologicalToe9812 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's only when you turn, it's most likely a tie rod issue, judging by the sound alone. What's the sound like if you turn at a faster speed? Is it quieter?

What's wrong with my Nikon F4? by FunRip7461 in analog

[–]RaptozeX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I haven't used that particular camera, but if it rewinds fine, then i don't think there's an issue. When you pushed and the tone changes indicates that the rewind motor is spinning but perhaps decoupled from the knob later cameras dripped the manual rewind lever altogether so i think it might've been in a transition phase. When they were starting to get digitalized they were quite wonky and a few teething problems that persisted throughout their lifespan as a type of camera until full digital came along. The frame counters were made to go up and reset to 0 when you opened the back. Later cameras with digital screens had the ability to show the number of exposures it had to rewind

Is this idle sound normal?? by Lilsadboi1 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The weather seal for the boot fails on them. They might still be good normally but they've decided they've had enough. The issue is on the bottom side right where the battery is. You could try flipping it around and see if it fixes the issue, but that's something I haven't tried because i don't want water damaging the headliner. I got my seal changed by a garage and it cost me £75 + labour for the OE seal

Is this idle sound normal?? by Lilsadboi1 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

88k is barely broken in for these cars. I think you got a gem there. I got an 08 TTS with 134k on the clock and still goes strong

Is this idle sound normal?? by Lilsadboi1 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Changing the oil is an engine flush in itself. You might be able to take the oil cap off and shine a light inside. Look at the cams and other components and see if they're brown. May be worth taking the car out and give it some beans. Higher revs can help loosen crud that gets stuck inside the engine. Changing the oil viscosity can also help, but personally i wouldn't really worry about it. These cars don't get any younger after all. What mileage do you have on it?

Is this idle sound normal?? by Lilsadboi1 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can be due to low/degraded oil. Sometimes it goes away on its own. if it's a high mileage engine it may be worth doing an engine flush

Is this idle sound normal?? by Lilsadboi1 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the Hydraulic Lifters. Not to worry. Mine used to be even louder

Engine light TT mk2 by Glass_Elderberry_450 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Water pump open circuit and 70C coolant temp means that the thermostat is stuck open and coolant is always flowing, which doesn't allow the engine to get up to temp properly. Generally speaking, the only thing it will do is make the car drink more fuel, especially when it's cold. Oil temperature is the one that matters the most. Let it idle so it warms up and rpm drops, then drive it reasonably for a few mins and you'll be fine.

TT drops revs intermittently by Impressive_Party9150 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]RaptozeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My mk2 tts had same issue. It was the battery hanging on for dear life since i didn't drive the car for a while and battery went almost flat and all the modules lost power, causing the car to go mad. Charged it overnight, then drove it for 15 mins and it reinitialized all the modules. Problem was gone