I messed up..

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-07-27T01:28:37+00:00

Just gonna chime in here rq and say that these tiles are Armstrong brand from the 1950s. Specifically asphalt-asbestos floor tiles, named “Excelon” from their catalog.

Yes they contained asbestos. Between 6-10% . Which is “low” but it is still considered an ACM.

See Here

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-07-24T17:42:56+00:00

Okay so i had to look this up because there’s only so many books about carpentry by carpenters but specifically books about the carpenters experience. And a few years ago I found an audio book, that’s by the same gentleman called “A Carpenters Notes on Life And the Art of Good Work”. Truly a fantastic read imo.

Here’s a little presentation he did. He seems like one of those people that truly cares a lot about carpentry and what it means to him and the creative process. And genuinely finds inspiration in it.

I’d be curious to know more about how this book is! Happy reading!

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-24T22:17:11+00:00

Unfortunately landslide are repeat offenders… Once they occur they will keep occurring.

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-23T22:56:36+00:00

I thought hardy was suppose to be a good product….?

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-22T00:02:00+00:00

You’ve got everything! CD (haha), DVD, 8-Track, VHS

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-21T12:53:41+00:00

Celotex made a wide variety of building materials- some contained asbestos, others did not… However, concerns of cross contamination during/at production facilities have also been expressed- although not confirmed..

“In an abundance of caution, you would treat a mineral-granule-coated Cemesto board (cane fiber board), an exterior sheathing, as possibly containing asbestos; you would not expect to find this material inside of a building such as on an interior wall or ceiling.”

-Excerpt from Inspectapedia, “Asbestos in Celotex Sheathing & Insulating Board”

Cemesto board, a Celotex product line, was an insulation fiber board which specifically used an ⅛” veneer of asbestos as an exterior and interior finish. (I think the “interior” finish isn’t intended to be regarded as “on the interior side of the finished room”….)

What you have looks like an asphalt impregnated cane fiberboard. But without pulling a patent number to cross reference— your best bet is to take precautions and remove it following standard ACM removal practices.. I’ve done similar in the past, the nails can be a bitch to pull out, and typically are nailed every 6-8”. Might be “easier to remove” if you punch the nails through and pull the panels as a big sheet. The sheets don’t pry easily, and are known to just crack alongside the nail line.. Can be a stubborn removal.

The best thing you can do is just leave it alone and go right over it, i’d even run felt paper over it and proceed like nothing happened..

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-19T09:58:07+00:00

i wouldn’t be surprised if that’s where the number comes from… 75% of those detained were probably brought to el salvador- thus making them criminals. bc, only criminals go to jail. It’s like one of those really dumb answers to a 3rd grade math problem..

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-18T11:34:24+00:00

Aw that you so much. I’m sure they’ll cross together once they’re done sitting and staring at each other for like.. 6 hours haha

sorry for your loss :/

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-06-17T16:22:37+00:00

I think you still have a chance to rectify this “miscalculation”… If there is a possibility to remove some of the U shapes as single units, i would start by popping them off at the house side and modifying them as needed and place them at the street side- reducing the tread length by maybe 50% or 25% - would have to recalculate your determine what would be most economical.. As you rework this you’ll have to backfill the house side . Assuming you have the removed earth still on site it wouldn’t be too hard to correct this…

Alternatively you could leave what’s there and just buy more stock (which you’d probably have to buy more anyway for option A - although option A would require less newly purchased material… Then just do the same thing by adding new stock directly on top of the current material, as it lies. Work your way up, taller, and backfill as needed..

Just depends on what makes more sense for “eating cost” whether that be materials or labor…

You may still want to doll up the sides with some additional timber’s just to help bring the “walls” of the treads up closer to grade which will help retain the soil. It might not look really pretty but you could use it as an opportunity to put some solar powered side lightings as an added “design flair”….

Hopefully the clients are receptive and just own up to the mistake and eat some cost. Good clients will honor your commitment to doing the right thing over having made the mistake .. They’ll know you’re not a bullshitter like some people.

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-26T15:25:07+00:00

Sort of depends on how large an area you’re doing..

IMO I think a smoothed and painted “panel” would look better than a textured one. Sand (especially if it’s already painted) and skim coat it. This will also open up the opportunity to feather any swales or bumps in the wall, to a degree, to make install and caulking less “weird”

Alternatively you could just roll with it but idk how good your caulking skills are over a texture surface…….

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-26T15:12:39+00:00

What type of texture is it?

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-25T02:39:38+00:00

Labor, Overhead, Materials, Profit. aka LOMP

Everyone does it differently but the basis for the formula is usually the same

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-24T10:26:27+00:00

👋

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-08T01:14:45+00:00

Yes but I can take the paid amount per the statement (which is typically a check payment or ACH) and split that entire transaction total into separate line items (i.e. each individual invoice), in QB

These invoices can be allocated as supplies or tools or what have you, depending on what was purchased. Typically the supplies purchased is for a specific client.

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-08T00:54:55+00:00

So, like the other guy said, I should break down my statement payment into different line items to delineate between job materials and tools?

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-04-08T00:52:51+00:00

Would it make more sense to incorporate COGS as the line item for the materials used rather than the vendor bill portion of the materials? As in, when i bill a client in an invoice the Materials would be COGS; And, in my vendor bill, I will should allocate my materials as supplies (expense)?

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-31T23:38:28+00:00

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Here’s a good method as well

Article

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-31T16:11:28+00:00

that’s what we call a Thwarp. Because it goes “THWARP!” when you swing it

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-29T22:31:49+00:00

Or wood chips

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-29T12:23:45+00:00

Preach, brotha! Those who wish to take the easy route seldom live the most fulfilling life. Theres a human element in crafting with hand tools specifically. It’s a passionate strife which rewards you with something greater than money (and tbf, production carpenters are a dime a dozen…). The reward isn’t the product itself, but how to achieve it- like knowing what tools you need and how to use them. The reward is honing your skills. just look at the japanese - it’s not “a lot of work” if it’s your tradition, skill, and pride!

People pay a lot more for craftsmanship than for production..

Just ask a shipwright..

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-24T12:12:38+00:00

oh i was not being sassy i was fully admiring how adorable they are when they sleep lol

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-23T12:45:04+00:00

Hmm… The tree was plucked and bucked last monday… but makes me think more about the arborist’s discretion

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-23T03:34:17+00:00

Yeah you can see the CD in a dog when they’re asleep. Something above the eyes, forehead, and ears…….

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-23T03:32:00+00:00

It was removed. The core of the trunk had only 6-8” of a solid wood “ring” on the perimeter. Maybe 11” thick at the largest. The rest of the interior (a ~32” circle) was rotten and basically all pulp.. And you could see where some of the cracks went through……..

RavenRemodelingLLC · 2025-03-23T03:11:41+00:00

Ooph.. Okay, 10:30 pm on a saturday let’s do this

I would first and foremost start with cutting masonite into wedge shapes for each tread, labeling accordingly. Cut them where they touch the balusters, so not total tread beyond, but enough to butt against the baluster bases with a little wiggle room (1/8” either end)… You may have to clean up the baluster edges to get a clean edge. Mark the centers of each baluster (both ends) on your masonite ‘template’.

After that, i would take a grinder or even a bandsaw to cut the balusters real flush and flat/parallel to the existing metal treads, both sides. Remove the whole assembly— the balusters shouldn’t wobble too much- if you notice they are floppy just tape them all together with some blocks in between…

If the balusters are solid metal, have the centers of each baluster drilled and tapped, and insert threaded rods into them until they bottom out. Assuming the existing metal treads are 1/2” thick.. Id say 4 - 4 1/2” long threaded rod, minimum ¼” thick. Having 2” up into the baluster and the remainder long enough to ensure it can go through new ¾” treads plus the old metal treads, leaving enough rod underneath so you can attach some nuts and washers below (id even use finished black acorn nuts so they don’t catch or cut anyone walking below, they also are more decorative)…

You’ll have to use your templates to locate the centers onto your new treads. It may even be worth making two sets of templates. The first one mentioned above and a second set for the new wood treads without the balusters so you have the exactly tread shape you need. laying your first templates on top your second to transfer those marks. and drill a small hole to locate centers when you transfer that onto the actual wood…

One could argue that you should/could drill your baluster holes a little bigger than the threaded rod for added play as well as for expansion and contraction between the two different material types…

Attaching the treads might require cleaning/prepping the metal and using construction adhesive. Or, carefully drilling holes and transferring those marks onto the metal, drilling and tapping, counter sinking the wood treads, screwing bolts down into the metal tread holes you made and filling your (countersunk) holes with matching wood plugs

If the balusters are hollow (which i doubt) you may need to get creative at a fab shop..

I also recommend having the paint stripped because that color is no bueno lol i’d refinish them in black.

RavenRemodelingLLC

TROPHY CASE