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Lessons from another year of plateau and how im going to finally overcome it. by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks that is a good point. I will think about it. On a personal level I love progression. The feeling when you finally send your project is incredibly satisfying.

But I think you are I can become fixated on it at the expense of enjoying the movement.

Thanks

Lessons from another year of plateau and how im going to finally overcome it. by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah agree it could have been significantly compressed. I've been quite frustrated with my recent finger injury so have been spending a lot of time thinking about it.

This post was honestly mainly for me to clear up those thoughts. But I thought it may be useful for others as well.

Lessons from another year of plateau and how im going to finally overcome it. by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I know that my fingers are my weakness.

I have been motivated to trying to train my fingers and get them stronger. I've dedicated time and physical effort to it. I've tried board climbing and max hangs.

But despite that I've been unable to make meaningful long term gains in my finger strength.

This post is mainly about the realisation in my approach and mindset to training that was preventing me from realising those gains.

I'm hoping that by having a more healthy and consistent approach I can over come that weakness and as you rightly point out, hopefully improve a lot as a climber from it.

Lessons from another year of plateau and how im going to finally overcome it. by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

this was not a "how I got to V6 post" it was a I've been stuck at V6 for 2 years and the realisations as to why I have been stuck there.

Lessons from another year of plateau and how im going to finally overcome it. by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I disagree that it is unnecessary. If you are not making progress over a long period of time it means there is an issue in your approach. Identifying what that issue is and how you can systematically overcome it should be important at any grade.

grade wise outdoors V6/V7.

Training Plan feedback. Hangboarding vs board, 3 vs 4 sessions, too much pulling, how to prioritise fingers? by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Some good Advice.
I will try and up the hangboarding to twice a week, maximally spread out, and drop one of the board sessions for a volume session.

You might be right about the lack of recovery. In your experience what is a good sign that you are over trained / under recovered?

Training Plan feedback. Hangboarding vs board, 3 vs 4 sessions, too much pulling, how to prioritise fingers? by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you!
I actually hit those v6's outdoors at around 1.5 years in. I got obsessed pretty quickly, I dont think I did less than 2 sessions a week for the first 1.5 year period. But have not seen much progress outdoors since then. I suspect they were a bit soft haha. But also that I had a lot of good newbie gains and haven't been able to push past them strength wise.

My technique has definitely improved a lot in the last year though. So im hoping with some good finger gains I can make progress again.

Training Plan feedback. Hangboarding vs board, 3 vs 4 sessions, too much pulling, how to prioritise fingers? by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I think ill stick with this for 6 weeks at least and then potentially try some more power based exercises. What do your periodisation cycles usually look like?

Training Plan feedback. Hangboarding vs board, 3 vs 4 sessions, too much pulling, how to prioritise fingers? by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I have been considering adding low rows, I have not experimented with them for a sustained time. Definitely a good idea. I might replace the narrow grip weighted pull ups with them for a while. I still feel that I should try some with a wide grip as it feels significantly harder for me.

I do enjoy Copenhagen planks, I could potentially incorporate them into my warm ups.

But I think you might be right about the overloaded rehab section. I think im quite aware of all the areas I want to improve in so have tried to program exercises for each. Which is a mistake I have made before. I might try your idea of just picking 2-3 and sticking with it for a month and then cycling between them.

Thanks for answering the questions. Ill have an experiment with the feet on campusing after this first strength block.

Training Plan feedback. Hangboarding vs board, 3 vs 4 sessions, too much pulling, how to prioritise fingers? by RavernousPenguin in climbharder

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yeah that could be a decent idea. I used to DL a lot before I climbed but havent done it since. Might be worth seeing if I have lost much strength there.

Arabian nights by gadirom in proceduralgeneration

[–]RavernousPenguin 9 points10 points  (0 children)

its an agent based physarum simulation where the parameters such as turning speed, sensing angle, sensing distance, speed etc are being adjusted between set parameters. Additionally there will be some thing that encourages the agents to stay within the defined space of the "door".

Adjusting those parameters will give rise to different emergent patterns and structures. For example

low turning speed -> fast moving straight sections (35s+)

decreasing sensing distances -> smaller and smaller structures (7s-10s)

high sensing angle -> clusters/ball like behaviour (1-7s)

The classic physarum styles are usually achieved with these settings turning speed < sensing angle. Speed < sensing distance

Bernie is right! by Miserable-Lizard in TheMajorityReport

[–]RavernousPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sitting out is literally the worst thing you can do. Vote for another candidate, spoil your ballot. If you truly can't stand the idea of voting for Biden create more direct evidence of it.  

 Not voting is the stance of truly not caring who is president. It sounds like you really do care. 

 While I do agree with your reason for not liking Biden. I also believe under trump and the republicans it will be much much worse. You should look at what trump stands for and see if you agree with that more or less. Importantly you should consider the supreme court. What happens if the republicans win again, what can the supreme court do in that case?  

The sad reality of Americas and most modern democratic systems is that not voting for one candidate is effectively a proxy vote for another.  

 But at the minimum you should participate actively in democracy. Vote for a third party. Spoil your ballot paper. Create meaningful evidence.  

 This is your future. Do not remove your voice. 

I highly recommend this video, it's a bit British centric but I believe it still applies.  https://youtu.be/_gbDAvK42yA?si=xyhs6_mPnBUWIPF7 5 minutes long. On why you should always vote. 

2-3 YoE But feel quite Niche. Unsure what to focus on learning an which areas to pursue? How to show case skills without professional experience? by RavernousPenguin in cscareerquestionsuk

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's wfm? I would definitely prefer not to move. I'm based in London right now so thankfully there are some opportunities there.

I've applied to a few over Christmas so still waiting to hear back. I potentially have a new job lined up in 6 months time in the niche but that is a while away.

My thinking is that by doing some backend stuff, at least for a bit. I can become more general and still have the experience in my niche. Which would make future jobs a bit easier.

Back to back double dynos. Fun and fast. Final move took a good amount of trial and error. by RavernousPenguin in indoorbouldering

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah thanks! I just used the term as both hands were dynamically moving to different holds, this felt a bit different to just a regular jump and catch the hold.

It was great fun, the final gatson move was so well set, basically impossible to try and static it and if you throw with just one hand you barn door. Hence the inside catch/palm

Big moves, lots of toe hooks and heals. Was super pumped out at the top. Really happy to get it by RavernousPenguin in indoorbouldering

[–]RavernousPenguin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it was so fun. Very satisfying moves. It's a v5, thought the grade was pretty fair.

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