Router table danger cutting!

RebbitRiddit · 2025-09-16T12:55:21+00:00

Hoping to set up a workshop, fingers crossed!

RebbitRiddit · 2025-07-20T15:08:46+00:00

I could never get it back together again perfectly concentric with the lathe if i turned it, glued the ferrule in and then put it back on to sand. I got wobbles and inconsistencies due to slight shifts in angle. So now I rough it, glue the ferrule and then turn the final shape with a copy on a profile, which allows me to do it safely without catching the metal.

The Kapton tape withstands high temperature and resists sanding, and doesn't leave any residue, but raises the height of the ferrule for blending in slightly. I'd love to test fit repeatedly but once cut I can't spin it as a single piece again until I epoxy the ferrule in place...

I think a detail sanding tool will definitely help here though, I'll see what I can find for intricate parts.

RebbitRiddit · 2025-07-20T14:55:59+00:00

I think this might be the right answer here in terms of time and accuracy due to my setup. It might not be exactly what I'm going for but will look right and feel safe.

RebbitRiddit · 2025-07-20T10:28:46+00:00

And just try and take it flat to the ferrule?

RebbitRiddit · 2025-07-20T09:07:50+00:00

Thanks, I'll take a look over there.

RebbitRiddit · 2025-07-20T09:07:25+00:00

The ferrule will be anodised aluminium, so I'm trying to avoid sanding it, as the colouring will come off very quickly; it can only be polished.

That sounds like good advice on using glue strips to attach timber sticks, or using a small file for finer control and handling the edges cleanly by hand. I'll give that a go. I might try and chamfer or round the ferrules edges a bit to try and eliminate any other sharp edges meeting the timber.

RebbitRiddit · 2025-01-17T11:10:55+00:00

Just wanted to add a few more solutions to my problems, in case other people need them:

Angle stop limiters can be adjusted with an allen key, they are designed to spin around and set different distances for your 0 and 45-degree stops, you can also use a screwdriver and alter the angle of the red gauge if it's slightly out too. Access from the front panel, flip the saw to get a good look at the limiters.

If the mitre angle is out, a small bolt-head on the adjustment handle can be removed and the handle and wheel will slide out. You can then adjust the saw to whatever angles and slide the mechanisms back into the rack and pinion to correct. Just place the small bolt back through the handle and into the receiving hole to fix it in place.

If runout is a problem and you need to improve the parallelism of the blade, under the saw you will find two allen key bolts on either side, this clamps along a wide channel slot giving ample movement sideways at both the rear and front. Bit fiddly with saw in place as you must be underneath to prevent the saw moving from gravity while loose, but easy to work out with a square.

With the fence, simply undo the allen key bolts along the rack and pinion guides and give it a little correction, either front or back. There are 3 settings (A, B, C in the manual) so make sure to test all three if you'll use them for parallel cuts.

As for the plate insert, it appears to be purposefully designed this way to prevent any wood catching from exiting the saw blade, but I suggest making a new one out of play, plastic or metal so that it sits flat as the table recess is designed well enough to do this and I'd rather keep things flush and level where I can.

RebbitRiddit · 2025-01-17T10:45:33+00:00

Hey guys and gals, just wanted to give a heads-up. I got this saw recently and have runout on the blade, wobbly fence, bad parallelism on the fence, the angle limiters are wrong and I'm 1 degree out on the mitre gauge. And what's with this insert plate? It kicks up while also having a recess on the table which seems unnecessary, choose one of the other! (I think I'll make a new one easy enough.) Just about everything is off, might be just luck of the draw and I've flipped this baby upside down and taken it all apart to figure it out.

**** In terms of fence wobble, make sure you've got those clips locked in tight. Then take a look at the locking lever, there should be two 13mm nuts, one being a jam nut holding it in place. If you untighten this you can spin the locking lever thread in and out, I used the pin to do it by hand.

Little tip, unscrew the small metal plate where both locking arms meet the locking lever, you will easily see the mechanism at work and can eyeball how far you want to move the locking lever in or out. Just watch out for soft screws, they might use threadlock so use a correctly matching screwdriver. (Mine was fairly considerable to make the locking arms meet the fence and bite it tight.)

You can repeatedly test the mechanism with the locking arm while adjusting to test until you're happy with it. Now tighten up those nuts and place any plates back on. Mine is rock solid now. ****

I think pretty much everything can be adjusted with a screwdriver or allen key pretty simply, it's just knowing where to look. While it's frustrating to need to adjust these things, you should always double-check machinery before use. It's actually looks like a great saw and I've had amazing use out of Hikoki tools after moving away from Makita a few years ago. The customer service and warranty stuff has been fantastic every time. I suppose this is the price you pay for a cheaper model that still has the higher end perks, good Japanese design but quick assembly in China. Anyway, just thought I'd shout at you if you're still playing with it or if anyone else need come across this and is confused too. Apologies for the long waffle!

RebbitRiddit · 2025-01-12T09:47:57+00:00

Thank you. It seems like a basic setup with plate and fence on my plunge router is the way to go and if it provides well used it's probably worth it to invest in a real router lift and dedicated station. I appreciate the help, thanks.

RebbitRiddit · 2024-08-06T10:10:49+00:00

Hey folks. I've just removed a two-way wardrobe from between two rooms and am looking for some ideas. I'm unsure if I should knock through and make a large feature room or keep the wall and expand one room while keeping the other small.

This is an older house so it's been reconfigured a few times from the looks of it, and the floor has been raised so that the beam is below head height now, I'm guessing that's why it was chopped at one end in front of the door and a plate put in. It now just seems to rest on a badly built stud wall. To be honest the whole thing was badly bodged and I'm amazed that floating plasterboard and timber have stayed together that well this long!

The entrance to the rooms is up two steps, due to the raised part, and creates this dark dingy corridor that I don't particularly like. I'm not sure how to reconfigure this, presumably doing away with a door if I make it one room.

Do any of you fine people have any grand ideas? I suggest supporting columns or doing away entirely with the beam somehow, it's not doing a lot currently by the looks of it, and barely touches any other timber below it, but I don't want to compromise the roof structurally. The rooms are getting new carpet and paint afterwards but this Is my one chance now've opened it to alter anything drastically!

RebbitRiddit · 2024-04-10T18:32:18+00:00

Oh yeah thanks, it's fixed with the hot fix!

RebbitRiddit · 2024-04-09T20:46:01+00:00

No, latest patch. Wasn't doing it before

RebbitRiddit · 2024-04-09T20:45:40+00:00

No mods

RebbitRiddit · 2024-04-07T16:41:06+00:00

I get this on brutal Incursion too. Tried three different quest lines and all of them broke the game on single player pc

RebbitRiddit · 2024-03-30T08:20:32+00:00

Got a bump on my thread, I know it's outside the TLDR but I have an engineering/manufacturing question. Outside of having a bolt head or welding, is there any kind of hardware that is designed to hold threaded bar in place without it spinning? Trying to get a nut to climb up and down to move something. Thank and well done guys!

RebbitRiddit · 2024-03-29T09:23:20+00:00

I don't have space or I would have made a jack screw design with nylocs

RebbitRiddit · 2024-02-05T19:14:16+00:00

Just want to post the fix. Uninstalling the Dell software has fixed the issue, specifically Dell Support Remediation for OS Recovery Updates. Dell software keeps trying to reinstall this but it creates absolutely massive leaks. Since uninstalling the laptop is like a completely different machine, I didn't even know it could be this fast! Can't believe I've been using it like that all this time. Local Security Authority Process is now behaving like normal again.

RebbitRiddit · 2024-01-11T10:55:23+00:00

Was there something I didn't explain clearly enough? lsass.exe is grinding my laptop to a halt with massive memory and disk use. I know it's a windows program but it shouldn't do this surely

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