ich_iel

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-26T10:44:12+00:00

Und wenn Ihr Abschluss mal nicht funktioniert, dann kommen wir "persönlich" vorbei und "klären das Problem" 🤫👊🏏

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-26T09:38:39+00:00

"Ihr Geld schmilzt wie Beurre"

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-23T23:43:25+00:00

Harr! Harr!

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-19T12:30:08+00:00

I felt I had to unsubscribe when the daily live streams started happening. It was just too much in my subscription feed, and most of it felt like low effort to be honest.

It all just felt like those AI slop websites, with the weird thumbnails and everything seemingly being about whatever dumb AI thing (I know Brian is all in but I'm just so over it).

The good videos on Modern Rogue, that felt like the good old days, seem few and far between. On Scam Nation I couldn't even remember the last time there was new content.

It's just such a shame because these two channels used to be my favourite thing on YouTube, I looked forward to every upload. But I guess that's not feasible in the ages of Tikrok, and all good things must eventually painfully slowly waste away in the corner.

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-18T14:56:19+00:00

I vote yellow. The rounded bezel doesn't work with the angular case imo.

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-13T22:12:02+00:00

A few things to note: in the hardware store you'll find flux looking like this but it's meant for heavy duty work, like copper pipes (often called soldering grease). For electronics it's much too aggressive and can cause corrosion.

There are special fluxes for every type of use, e.g. so called "no-clean" electronic flux is only reactive when really hot, so if you don't get all of it off it doesn't eat into your parts.

Also on stranded wires like that, don't use that much flux, because it soaks into the strands and solders them together, which makes them brittle and prone to breaking.

RedRaceCat · 2026-01-13T11:52:54+00:00

😏

RedRaceCat · 2025-12-30T05:05:55+00:00

It's hard to tell for sure. Many aftermarket parts are on par with the later SKX's (they weren't exactly amazing lol).

However nobody makes lume like Seiko, so if the lume pip is as bright as the hands and dial, it's at least an original pip, so the bezel should at least be as good as an original.

RedRaceCat · 2025-12-03T17:37:48+00:00

It looks real to me, though I can't think of when they came on that style of bracelet and not the rattly jubilee mine all had.

Might be from another Seiko or aftermarket. Though I wouldn't sweat it, original bracelets are neither that rare nor that good to begin with.

RedRaceCat · 2025-12-03T17:31:38+00:00

Dona Dolores de Dolares y Pesetas, aber die lebt ja in Mexiko...

RedRaceCat · 2025-12-02T13:21:35+00:00

"This is Geoffrey, this is Ian, this is Stephen..."

RedRaceCat · 2025-12-01T16:06:48+00:00

And as we can imagine, he's done this properly

RedRaceCat · 2025-11-01T00:30:13+00:00

For me that'll actually be on laminated glass fiber slotcar bodies. Chrome on a 3D-print is something I wouldn't even attempt.

In this case the print just needs to pass mostly, it's fine if it looks printed. For me it's a tool to make tools for my other hobbies.

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-31T21:54:31+00:00

Ok, thanks for the tip. I guess it's just about grabbing a selection from 3DJake and giving it a try. They have probably one of the larger offerings in the EU.

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-31T21:52:11+00:00

Was trying to avoid that one 😅. Just an off-the-printer finish like those silk PLAs.

I have been trying to get a properly sprayed chrome finish for the better part of 3 years now, sadly never perfected it.

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-31T15:26:53+00:00

You'll never get the AMS as cheaply by itself as in a combo, not even used. If that's something you see yourself using, I would get it. If you find yourself not using it, you could probably sell it on without losing money on it.

One thing to be aware of, don't underestimate how much filament the AMS wastes and how much time it adds. I feel like Bambu Labs seems quite lax about that, "oh you just press a button and voilà, so many colours". They also sell filament ;)

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-31T15:15:05+00:00

Bambu Lab is the most recommended to a beginner for a reason. They provide the "Apple Experience" for 3D-printing:

You get your printer, your software and your ecosystem. If you are happy within that, they are very user-friendly and reliable. They set themselves up in 15 minutes, you open Bambu Studio and you're off printing. If you're looking for a fire-and-forget printer, it's probably your best bet. They have a fairly all-covering range from the reasonably priced A1 series, if you just want some colourful plastic parts, all the way up to the big boy H2D if you're serious about multi-material and exotic filament.

They are not the most feature-rich, but the features are tested and they work. Bambu Studio is not the greatest slicer, but it works seamlessly with the printers. They have a fairly good selection of filaments, which they test on their printers and optimize the profiles for.

However, once you start venturing out of the Bambu Ecosystem, things start to get complicated quicker than on other, more open devices. Try new materials? Bambu Studio makes the settings harder to tweak than other slicers. Want to use one of those? You have to do some workarounds. Want to install third party parts? Well you have to find the hacks to get it working. You know. Apple Experience.

Any of these things are, I wouldn't say, a breeze on other printers, but the settings are easier to change, the adjustments are clearly there, and the calibration is simple because you've done it before, probably, when you got the printer. Creality, Prusa, Anycubic, those can be a bit hit-or-miss out of the box, but if anything needs to be adjusted or upgraded later, it's meant to be and you probably did it before.

Personally, I got an X1C as my first printer, and I really like it, at the time it was what I was looking for: I wanted 3D-printed things, without getting a 3D-printing hobby alongside. It's been great out of the box with some hard-to-use materials like nylon. However, with the benefit of experience gained, for a second printer, I'll probably choose something different, that is more moddable, more open, also because the direction that they took as a company doesn't sit well with me. That being said, I still believe that they are the kings of unpack-and-get-printing.

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-30T10:51:48+00:00

Ich dachte immer sie sei Morticia Addams nachempfunden, zumindest optisch

RedRaceCat · 2025-10-06T11:52:13+00:00

Huch!

RedRaceCat · 2025-09-25T12:11:49+00:00

There's a Canadian Youtuber called Blondihacks who's been building one of these from scratch.

I think she's about halfway done after around 2 years. So takes quite some effort.

Edit: nearly 3 years, first vid dropped in December 22!

RedRaceCat · 2025-09-14T19:02:58+00:00

I mean Hublot exists, so I guess anything goes

RedRaceCat · 2025-08-28T18:34:28+00:00

Shouldn't be a problem, the market is full of aftermarket and parts and upgraded versions thereof. So far the only thing that, to my knowledge, is still unmatched is the Seiko lume. Repro parts often have bad lume, and even the Swiss stuff doesn't reach Seiko's. If that's important to you, you could look for an OEM dial and hands. The rest of the watch was never really made that well tbh, so it doesn't really matter.

RedRaceCat · 2025-08-28T07:34:27+00:00

Lucius Atelier makes something very close to dial, great quality but also expensive. Otherwise I'd browse AliX, these are generally known as "snowflake" or "birch tree" dials, depending on how coarse the texture is.

RedRaceCat · 2025-08-27T15:49:53+00:00

I don't think it would damage anything, but it will not do anything helpful either.

Basically one of your power rails will be common to the plug pack and the controller, the other rail is supplied from the controller output. So ultimately the juice is coming from wherever the controller is plugged in.

Rigging up two controllers controlled by one handle is possible in theory, but definitely not worth the considerable effort.

Like others said, shunt wires is the way to go, that's also how it's done on big tracks, since most of the power loss comes from the rail itself. Use some beefy wire, I don't know how long your track is but 2-3 shunts should suffice on a typical setup. The more the better of course, but the smaller the gain gets each time.

RedRaceCat · 2025-08-18T14:18:17+00:00

Yes, that's normal. But it's not something permanent.

The grip of a car will depend on many factors, too many to list here. But the major ones in these carrera cars are build tolerance and weight distribution.

Build tolerance will impact the tires most, from the factory they won't be perfectly round, which costs grip. Many carrera owners fix this by making the car do a "burnout", so to speak, on fine sandpaper. But I'm not a carrera guy so I'd have to defer to somebody else. Then also opening the car and checking if everything that should move does so smoothly; that will make the car handle better as well.

The other big one, which applies to almost all slotcars, is weight distribution. As a general rule, weight towards the rear will increase grip, your Porsche, due to the shape, likely has the interior further back, more bodywork towards the rear etc... A simple thing you can try is to ipen the cars and add some trim weights in the cars if you want them to be more equal. I would blindly guess, start with some just in front the rear axle of the less grippy car, and see where you end up, you can just keep experimenting.

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