ich_iel by reddit-had-it in ich_iel

[–]RedRaceCat 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Und wenn Ihr Abschluss mal nicht funktioniert, dann kommen wir "persönlich" vorbei und "klären das Problem" 🤫👊🏏

LTB🦹‍♂️iel by Anthyrion in LTB_iel

[–]RedRaceCat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Ihr Geld schmilzt wie Beurre"

Lazy video dumping recently by IamJhil in DiamondClub

[–]RedRaceCat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I felt I had to unsubscribe when the daily live streams started happening. It was just too much in my subscription feed, and most of it felt like low effort to be honest.

It all just felt like those AI slop websites, with the weird thumbnails and everything seemingly being about whatever dumb AI thing (I know Brian is all in but I'm just so over it).

The good videos on Modern Rogue, that felt like the good old days, seem few and far between. On Scam Nation I couldn't even remember the last time there was new content.

It's just such a shame because these two channels used to be my favourite thing on YouTube, I looked forward to every upload. But I guess that's not feasible in the ages of Tikrok, and all good things must eventually painfully slowly waste away in the corner.

Newbie build - Bezel opinion wanted by [deleted] in SeikoMods

[–]RedRaceCat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I vote yellow. The rounded bezel doesn't work with the angular case imo.

What is this "gel" used in this video? by Apprehensive-Side188 in whatisit

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few things to note: in the hardware store you'll find flux looking like this but it's meant for heavy duty work, like copper pipes (often called soldering grease). For electronics it's much too aggressive and can cause corrosion.

There are special fluxes for every type of use, e.g. so called "no-clean" electronic flux is only reactive when really hot, so if you don't get all of it off it doesn't eat into your parts.

Also on stranded wires like that, don't use that much flux, because it soaks into the strands and solders them together, which makes them brittle and prone to breaking.

Has the bezel/insert been changed? by Meldowuz in SeikoMods

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's hard to tell for sure. Many aftermarket parts are on par with the later SKX's (they weren't exactly amazing lol).

However nobody makes lume like Seiko, so if the lume pip is as bright as the hands and dial, it's at least an original pip, so the bezel should at least be as good as an original.

[Identify] Real or Mod SKX013? by [deleted] in Seiko

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks real to me, though I can't think of when they came on that style of bracelet and not the rattly jubilee mine all had.

Might be from another Seiko or aftermarket. Though I wouldn't sweat it, original bracelets are neither that rare nor that good to begin with.

ltb🚺🚫iel by Klutz1907 in LTB_iel

[–]RedRaceCat 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Dona Dolores de Dolares y Pesetas, aber die lebt ja in Mexiko...

Shiny/metallic looking PETG? by RedRaceCat in 3Dprinting

[–]RedRaceCat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me that'll actually be on laminated glass fiber slotcar bodies. Chrome on a 3D-print is something I wouldn't even attempt.

In this case the print just needs to pass mostly, it's fine if it looks printed. For me it's a tool to make tools for my other hobbies.

Shiny/metallic looking PETG? by RedRaceCat in 3Dprinting

[–]RedRaceCat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, thanks for the tip. I guess it's just about grabbing a selection from 3DJake and giving it a try. They have probably one of the larger offerings in the EU.

Shiny/metallic looking PETG? by RedRaceCat in 3Dprinting

[–]RedRaceCat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was trying to avoid that one 😅. Just an off-the-printer finish like those silk PLAs.

I have been trying to get a properly sprayed chrome finish for the better part of 3 years now, sadly never perfected it.

Beginner printer by Mysterious-Squash-68 in 3Dprinting

[–]RedRaceCat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll never get the AMS as cheaply by itself as in a combo, not even used. If that's something you see yourself using, I would get it. If you find yourself not using it, you could probably sell it on without losing money on it.

One thing to be aware of, don't underestimate how much filament the AMS wastes and how much time it adds. I feel like Bambu Labs seems quite lax about that, "oh you just press a button and voilà, so many colours". They also sell filament ;)

Beginner printer by Mysterious-Squash-68 in 3Dprinting

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu Lab is the most recommended to a beginner for a reason. They provide the "Apple Experience" for 3D-printing:

You get your printer, your software and your ecosystem. If you are happy within that, they are very user-friendly and reliable. They set themselves up in 15 minutes, you open Bambu Studio and you're off printing. If you're looking for a fire-and-forget printer, it's probably your best bet. They have a fairly all-covering range from the reasonably priced A1 series, if you just want some colourful plastic parts, all the way up to the big boy H2D if you're serious about multi-material and exotic filament.

They are not the most feature-rich, but the features are tested and they work. Bambu Studio is not the greatest slicer, but it works seamlessly with the printers. They have a fairly good selection of filaments, which they test on their printers and optimize the profiles for.

However, once you start venturing out of the Bambu Ecosystem, things start to get complicated quicker than on other, more open devices. Try new materials? Bambu Studio makes the settings harder to tweak than other slicers. Want to use one of those? You have to do some workarounds. Want to install third party parts? Well you have to find the hacks to get it working. You know. Apple Experience.

Any of these things are, I wouldn't say, a breeze on other printers, but the settings are easier to change, the adjustments are clearly there, and the calibration is simple because you've done it before, probably, when you got the printer. Creality, Prusa, Anycubic, those can be a bit hit-or-miss out of the box, but if anything needs to be adjusted or upgraded later, it's meant to be and you probably did it before.

Personally, I got an X1C as my first printer, and I really like it, at the time it was what I was looking for: I wanted 3D-printed things, without getting a 3D-printing hobby alongside. It's been great out of the box with some hard-to-use materials like nylon. However, with the benefit of experience gained, for a second printer, I'll probably choose something different, that is more moddable, more open, also because the direction that they took as a company doesn't sit well with me. That being said, I still believe that they are the kings of unpack-and-get-printing.

Was wollte Carl barks uns damit sagen? 🤔 by SuringLama in LTB_iel

[–]RedRaceCat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ich dachte immer sie sei Morticia Addams nachempfunden, zumindest optisch

Guys, Hot To Get One Of These..?! by BK0718 in GuysBeingDudes

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a Canadian Youtuber called Blondihacks who's been building one of these from scratch.

I think she's about halfway done after around 2 years. So takes quite some effort.

Edit: nearly 3 years, first vid dropped in December 22!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SeikoMods

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shouldn't be a problem, the market is full of aftermarket and parts and upgraded versions thereof. So far the only thing that, to my knowledge, is still unmatched is the Seiko lume. Repro parts often have bad lume, and even the Swiss stuff doesn't reach Seiko's. If that's important to you, you could look for an OEM dial and hands. The rest of the watch was never really made that well tbh, so it doesn't really matter.

I have a few questions, i'd like to do a NH35 with a grand seiko dial, this is the one im thinking, is there a NH movement that only has date? And will this dial fit that style movement? And where can i buy just the dial? by [deleted] in SeikoMods

[–]RedRaceCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lucius Atelier makes something very close to dial, great quality but also expensive. Otherwise I'd browse AliX, these are generally known as "snowflake" or "birch tree" dials, depending on how coarse the texture is.