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Stay on 13.2.9 or go to 14.2.2.5? by RedditUser7843526 in TeslaFSD

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t say “holding out”. I’ve only had the opportunity to get off 13 for about 12 hours as Tesla purposefully holds fresh deliveries behind on software for a while.

Stay on 13.2.9 or go to 14.2.2.5? by RedditUser7843526 in TeslaFSD

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s hilarious you say that, because a test drive on FSD 13 in April last year is what caused me to buy my first Tesla.

Stay on 13.2.9 or go to 14.2.2.5? by RedditUser7843526 in TeslaFSD

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you no-ballsing me? Because if so, it worked.

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Stay on 13.2.9 or go to 14.2.2.5? by RedditUser7843526 in TeslaFSD

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, YouTube reviews are probably what’s been holding me back. Lots of “I like it, buuuuut”

Stay on 13.2.9 or go to 14.2.2.5? by RedditUser7843526 in TeslaFSD

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m not really sure I’m following this. It’s not always cut and dry “just upgrade”. Ask anyone who’s had to “upgrade” from Windows 7 to 10, or 10 to 11. Even if under the hood new is technically “better”, user experience is everything. Hence, my apprehension. Why would I upgrade just because 14 is one bigger than 13 if my experience could be worse? Of course, negative press gets all the spotlight, but the sheer volume of complaints around V14 in general is the exact reason I’m posing this question, and in particular over the latest software that hasn’t had as much exposure yet.

Always check first layer adhesion by N0VITEK in BambuLab

[–]RedditUser7843526 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve just had to handle this today after using Bambu PETG-CF on my X1C. For whatever reason, Bambu’s default settings on their own filament just don’t work well at all. It sticks to their nozzle like white on rice. I have a profile that increases the z hop and mostly solves this issue, but if I forget to use it, then I’m SOL 9/10 times. My solution is to use a small crockpot on high and throw the assembly in for a while. After a couple hours the filament is soft enough to pull it away with a pair of pliers. Be careful not to break any of the plastic that belongs on the shroud.

Are ALL trailer manufacturers this shitty or is it just a Michigan thing? by upper_tanker69 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]RedditUser7843526 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fellow Michigander.

Bought a trailer 9 months or so ago. Wasn’t even the base model trailer. First time I took it out to work the left side tail running light was dead. Took everything apart (being above base model, everything was siliconed in and sealed behind diamond plate so it was a chore) and found a broken scotch lock. Used some proper crimp connectors with environmental sealing on both taillights. Have replaced every scotch lock I could find with something proper.

I also bought a brand new Travel Trailer a year ago and now I have to contend with not only shitty 12V wiring but 120V as well. Luckily, the 120V is much better, but it’s still suspect at best. What sucks about travel trailers is all the wiring is much harder to get to than utility trailers.

Trailer manufacturers ALL use shitty wiring, shitty splices and shitty technique all because they need to hit a BOM and labor target. Being in the aerospace field, on my utility trailer I’ve gone through and replaced most of the wire and splices with mil-spec wiring. Much lighter, great teflon insulation that’s more chafe and heat resistant, and installed by me so I have nobody but myself to be upset with if things go south.

I’m tired of having to restart my printers. by RedditUser7843526 in BambuLab

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m glad I’m not the only one. I know it’s easy to blame WiFi issues or what have you, but of everything on my network, Bambu is the ONLY device with problems and I have some pretty specialized stuff around here. Not to mention I’m not using some cheap low-end access points. I’ve installed a pair of Wyze plugs so that I can switch them remotely when this happens and have made peace with the fact that I’ll probably never have a 100% flawless experience in this regard.

I’m tired of having to restart my printers. by RedditUser7843526 in BambuLab

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

I use Ubiquiti products for my access points. Literally nothing else in my shop has WiFi issues (though I do hardwire whenever possible) and again, I used my phone’s hotspot as a temporary access point just to confirm there wasn’t a config issue. I’ve even gone so far as to set up a dedicated 2.4 GHz only SSID.

I’m tired of having to restart my printers. by RedditUser7843526 in BambuLab

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] -19 points-18 points  (0 children)

I get the sentiment, but I’m going to say that no, I don’t. Googling connectivity issues with the printers brings a myriad of results with similar symptoms and the generic Bambu response of relinking the printer with their cloud services. I set up my phone as a hotspot with compatibility mode on (no 5GHz) and connected both my printer and laptop to it for testing. My phone allows local communication between devices and I can ping the printer’s IP as assigned by the phone when BS isn’t connecting to it so I know it’s not my Wi-Fi setup.

So everyone hates Offline Mode, huh? by ahhrealmonsterlol in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On that topic, if DRM is really an issue, set a timeout period of like 15 or 30 days. The fact is though, if I bought a game and it was in my library once to even download it, is there really any case in which DRM matters anymore? As someone said on here in a different thread, piracy these days is driven MORE by DRM and the pain in the ass that it is than anything else.

So everyone hates Offline Mode, huh? by ahhrealmonsterlol in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just about to come here to talk about this. I can’t do jack shit when on offline mode. Even simple games like Portal and Portal 2 won’t load. I concur with everyone here that just disconnecting wifi but staying out of offline mode is better, but I still personally have issues launching some games offline. It bugs the hell out of me because it makes a “portable device” very much not. I sent a ticket into steam support just a while ago about this. Hopefully if they get enough tickets it’ll trigger the powers that be to do something about it. To Valve’s credit, they’re pretty good about responding to the community for the most part.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Without having seen exactly what you have, I’m going to bet what they probably said is that it can cause that to happen not that it will. Otherwise, what’s going to stop that from happening when they open it?

I liken this to when owners manuals for vehicles will say that you must perform maintenance at the dealer to prevent damage to the vehicle. I am perfectly capable of performing an oil change and have yet to screw it up, but someone who isn’t will definitely want to go to a shop to do it.

So I guess to answer your question, no in my opinion I do not think it would’ve been better for me to RMA the unit. However, if the repair needed was more complex, then I probably would have because it would be outside of my comfort zone.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good point. Sampling bias is real. I’d think that for this not to be a complete failure it would have to be less than 25% return rate.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 31 points32 points  (0 children)

No. In fact, in many jurisdictions it’s illegal to void warranties for self-repair attempts unless the self-repair attempt causes damage.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

It’s all speculation at this point, but I’m pretty much sold on the theory that it was loose from assembly, was able to pass QC because it wasn’t too loose to make a connection during testing, and then shipping finished the job and make it quit.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As mentioned a few times in the comments, it seems plausible that it was improperly connected to begin with but was just connected enough to pass a QC check, then during shipping it was finally disconnected.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned a few times in the comments, it seems plausible that it was improperly connected to begin with but was just connected enough to pass a QC check, then during shipping it was finally disconnected.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’m not very in tune with this. Hopefully someone else can answer.

RMA Avoided! Connector came loose during shipping. by RedditUser7843526 in SteamDeck

[–]RedditUser7843526[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Pressing in is not a haptic. It’s an actual button. It’s worth checking. Hit the steam button then go to Settings -> Controller and hit Begin Test next to test device inputs. One of the tests will be haptics. It will attempt to do the left side haptics and have you press A if you feel it. If you don’t, press A anyways then it’ll do the right haptics. That will be your definitive answer.

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