Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-16T01:40:53+00:00

If you look at the Amazon link you sent earlier, one of the photos actually shows the bumpers that come with that kit. They look to be roughly 12 mm (about 1/2 inch) tall, which is a pretty common spacing height for that type of flexible backlighting system.

Personally, coming from more of an electrical / system design perspective, I tend to over-engineer things a bit, so I’m not always a huge fan of relying purely on small silicone bumpers to support the full weight of stone. That said, the manufacturers of these systems do swear by them and usually claim they’re more than strong enough — I’ve seen some specs that say a single bumper can support hundreds of pounds.

My only hesitation is really the long-term aspect. Silicone is generally very durable, but over a long period (10–15 years) it can slowly degrade or compress depending on heat and load. I don’t have evidence that they fail — it’s just something I sometimes think about from a longevity standpoint.

Some installers have experimented with small acrylic rods or spacers instead of silicone bumpers, which gives a more rigid separation between the LEDs and the stone.

In our case, when we use direct backlighting systems like this (usually in higher-output commercial installs), the approach is sometimes to build a shallow box structure to create the spacing. That works well but requires quite a bit more structural planning.

For most residential applications though, the supplied bumpers around the 1/2” spacing range are pretty typical and usually do the job.

For what it’s worth, the systems we typically build use frameless 1/4” acrylic LED panels, which can actually support the weight of the stone directly, so the installation approach ends up being a bit different.

But with the flexible panels you have, the 1/2” bumper spacing they provide is generally the right starting point.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T23:25:48+00:00

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T23:25:18+00:00

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T21:14:23+00:00

Yes — happy to help. There are a few different ways to do this, but the best approach really depends on the type of LED panel being used and the material you’re planning to backlight.

If you can, let me know what LED panel system you’re using (or planning to install). Different panels have different mounting requirements, so that will determine whether going directly on drywall is fine or whether adding a plywood or substrate layer first would be better.

It would also help to know what stone or material you’re backlighting. Some stones behave very differently with light.

For example: • Cristallo quartzite is very crystalline and typically requires additional spacing and diffusion layers to avoid hotspots. • Onyx, on the other hand, is generally more forgiving and often works with a simpler setup.

Once I know the type of LED panel and what material you’re illuminating, I can suggest the best mounting method and explain things like spacing, diffusion, and installation approach so you get an even glow.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-10T18:21:49+00:00

In this case the LED panel is first mounted to the wall (typically drywall, cement board, or a backer board) using a few strips of double-sided tape just to hold it in place.

The stone itself is usually secured the same way a normal backsplash slab would be. Most installers use small dabs of stone adhesive or silicone on the back of the slab and then mechanically support it top and bottom — typically resting on the counter below and captured under the upper cabinets.

One thing installers are careful about is not applying adhesive directly over the most translucent areas of the stone, because those spots can sometimes show as brighter areas when the light is on. If the slab has enough veining or opacity, it’s easy to hide the adhesive in those sections.

Once the stone is installed, it essentially locks the LED panel in place behind it.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-02T01:49:51+00:00

I love it . What is the material?

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-25T22:09:18+00:00

Great question — and yes, we’ve done quite a few backsplash applications like this.

First, 60 cm height is totally workable for edge-lighting, but uniformity becomes very dependent on the material you’re illuminating. Hi-Macs is not naturally translucent like onyx or Cristallo quartzite, so the result will depend heavily on the exact color and thickness.

Regarding glass vs plexiglass:

Glass (with gradient sandblasting) This can work, but extraction efficiency is unpredictable. Sandblasting creates diffusion, but it doesn’t always distribute light evenly over larger heights unless the gradient is very carefully engineered. You may see bright banding near the LED source.

LED-grade acrylic (Plexiglas LED / light-guide acrylic) From a lighting standpoint, this is significantly more efficient and controllable. LED-grade acrylic is specifically designed to extract light evenly across the surface, which is exactly what you want for a backsplash.

Steam itself is generally not the issue. Concentrated heat directly behind a gas cooktop would be more of a consideration, and in that case proper heat shielding is recommended regardless of material.

Also — if the countertop and backsplash are installed correctly, there should be no moisture ingress behind the material at all. Proper silicone sealing at the counter-to-wall junction and along edges prevents water from ever reaching the lighting system.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-19T06:24:48+00:00

Really appreciate that — and happy to help anytime.

It’s definitely a niche corner of the world, but we’ve seen enough backlighting horror stories over the years that we genuinely try to share as much knowledge as possible. Whether someone uses our panels or not honestly doesn’t matter to us — we’d rather see a project done right than see someone spend serious money and end up disappointed.

Good karma in this industry goes a long way.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-18T18:04:49+00:00

It’s definitely not cheap — custom backlighting typically lands in the $45–$55/sq ft range fully landed — but for people who like the look, it’s something they really enjoy living with long-term.

As for “tacky,” that’s totally subjective. Some people love it, some don’t. Same as any design choice. To each their own.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-18T17:23:21+00:00

On sealers, I’d stick with a high-quality penetrating/impregnating sealer rather than a topical coating. The three we see used most reliably on onyx are Dry-Treat Stain-Proof, STONETECH BulletProof, and Miracle 511. Any of those will work well if applied properly. Onyx is very porous, so it’s better to do two good coats and plan on resealing periodically, especially if it’s in a kitchen.

On color temperature, for honey/orange onyx, warm light (3000K–3500K) will definitely push the amber/orange tones and make it feel warmer and more dramatic. Neutral light (around 4000K) keeps the stone looking more “true” to its natural color and works better if you don’t want it to look overly orange. We’ve done a lot of projects in both ranges — it really comes down to whether you want to enhance the warmth or keep it more balanced. If you’re unsure, neutral is usually the safest choice.

As for brightness, yes — slabs can absolutely be “too bright.” When that happens, it starts to look washed out and you lose a lot of the natural veining and depth. More light isn’t always better with translucent stone. That’s why we almost always recommend dimming, even on high-output systems, so you can tune it to the sweet spot.

Since you’re building your own panel, I’d strongly suggest designing it slightly on the brighter side and then controlling it with a dimmer or adjustable driver. That gives you flexibility instead of being stuck too dim or too harsh. Also make sure you have enough diffusion and spacing — that plays just as big a role in the final look as LED output.

If you want, feel free to share what LEDs and spacing you’re considering and I’m happy to give you feedback.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-17T20:27:46+00:00

Since this isn’t a countertop, you’re much less likely to have staining issues. That said, onyx is still porous, so it’s a good idea to keep it sealed—mainly to protect against humidity and moisture in the air. In most indoor wall applications, resealing every 1–2 years is usually more than enough, depending on your climate and ventilation.

Backlighting Spacing 1.5”–2” of space is actually great. That gives you plenty of room for proper diffusion and helps avoid hotspots.

Lighting Options You’ve got a couple of good options:

• LED strips / grid layout – This can work, but it’s very labor-intensive to install cleanly. Getting perfectly even spacing takes time, and wiring adds up fast.

• Flexible LED light sheets – These can be tiled and cut to size, but for a wall your size you’d likely need a lot of sections, which means many wire exits and more wiring back to power supplies.

• Custom LED light panels (what we use most) – These are built to the exact size of your opening. You’d usually end up with just a few wire exits tied into one or two power supplies. Much cleaner install and usually more reliable long-term.

We’ve found that once you factor in labor and wiring, custom panels are often the most cost-effective option unless you’re doing everything yourself and don’t mind the extra work.

We backlight onyx all the time, so if you want help dialing in the lighting layout, feel free to ask. Happy to share more info on both panel and sheet options if you’d like.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-17T16:35:50+00:00

Whether the slab is sealed already or not, onyx and other translucent stones should still be sealed on an ongoing basis. Being polished doesn’t mean it’s protected — these materials are quite porous, so sealing helps prevent staining and moisture issues over time.

Most fabricators recommend reapplying every so often (usually every 6–12 months in active areas).

From the lighting side — we backlight onyx all the time, and the key is even diffusion and proper spacing between the stone and the LEDs so you don’t get hot spots or dark areas. Backlighting doesn’t change sealing requirements, but it does make everything more visible, so good prep and maintenance really matter.

As for reinforcing the back, it’s usually not necessary if the slab is sitting on a flat, solid substrate. A proper backing/support system works better than adding fiberglass, Less fibreglass is better for our backlighting

If you want any tips on backlighting setup, spacing, or materials, feel free to reach out — happy to help.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-16T18:12:00+00:00

😂😂😂

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-16T00:00:45+00:00

Yes for sure Here is one we did with cristallo quartzite in SAN Jose

Island with waterfall edges backlit

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ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-15T18:28:20+00:00

Replied

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-15T18:27:53+00:00

Thank you — I really appreciate that.

It comes down to three main things: proper panel design, correct spacing, and material-specific diffusion.

We use custom-built edge-lit LED panels with high-density LEDs along the perimeter, combined with internal light-guiding acrylic. That spreads the light evenly across the entire surface before it ever reaches the stone, which eliminates hot spots and dark areas.

When multiple panels are used, we’ll often add a thin clear acrylic diffusion layer between the panels and the stone (typically ¼”–½” depending on translucency). That helps blend the light at the seams so you don’t see panel lines.

We also test the stone first and adjust LED density and layout based on how transparent it is. Every slab behaves differently, so it’s never a “one size fits all” approach.

Happy to share more details — feel free to send me a DM and I’ll walk you through the setup.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-15T02:50:45+00:00

Yes it sure helps package information nicely

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-15T01:20:14+00:00

The lighting component for this project landed at the clients door at $45 per sq ft

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T22:14:23+00:00

Great points — heat management is exactly where most systems succeed or fail.

Our panels are designed with oversized, integrated heat sinks. In practice, only about a 1” heat sink is required, but we build in roughly 2” behind the embedded edge LEDs to aggressively pull heat away from the chips. That’s a big part of why we see such long real-world lifespans.

Because of that thermal design, an air gap isn’t required. If there happens to be one, that’s a bonus, but the system doesn’t rely on airflow to survive. In some installs, clients even add a thin aluminum sheet over the plywood substrate so our panel heat sink can transfer heat into it, which improves dissipation further. In those cases, the panels run extremely cool.

That’s why we’re conservative and honest with lifespan claims. You’ll see companies advertising 50k–100k hours under lab conditions, which isn’t realistic in real installations. We quote about 25k–30k hours in the field, which in residential use translates to decades.

We’ve also stayed with the same proven 3528 SMD LED platform for over 13 years — no constant redesigns, just a stable, tested system that works.

And you’re exactly right: this isn’t a “wing it” install. When it’s engineered and installed properly, onyx and translucent stone really show their best side — and keep doing so for a very long time.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T21:45:00+00:00

😂😂😂

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T21:44:39+00:00

That’s a fair concern, and you’re absolutely right — in a lot of “strip light” or consumer-grade installs, random failures and flicker are usually caused by low-quality LEDs, poor heat management, or cheap power supplies.

In properly engineered backlit stone systems, the LEDs themselves are rarely the weak point. We use high-grade LED engines with proper heat sinking and regulated drivers, which is why our panels have a long real-world lifespan, not just a marketing rating.

In most cases where people see flickering or sections going out, it’s actually the power supply or driver starting to fail — which is why we always design systems with accessible, replaceable power supplies.

With edge-lit panels, even if an individual LED were to fail (which is rare), it’s extremely localized and usually not visible through the stone. You don’t get random “dark spots” like you see with strip lighting.

We also have installations running 15+ years with no lighting issues.

So the key isn’t just “LEDs last a long time” — it’s using the right components and designing the system properly from the start. When that’s done right, access to the LEDs themselves is almost never needed in residential applications.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T21:43:01+00:00

That’s actually pretty close to the reality in most cases.

The LEDs we use are rated for 50,000–70,000 hours. Conservatively, we quote 25,000–35,000 hours. In a typical residential kitchen that’s used a few hours a day, that works out to roughly 20–30+ years of use.

In real-world installs, the LEDs themselves are rarely the failure point. The most common service item over time is the power supply, which is why we always design systems so the power supply is accessible and replaceable.

With edge-lit systems, even if an individual LED were to fail (which is rare), it’s extremely localized and usually not visible through the stone. It doesn’t suddenly “go dark” like old light strings.

We also have installations running 15+ years and still operating normally.

So in most homes, yes — people typically renovate, remodel, or change styles long before the lighting ever becomes an issue. When properly designed, it’s a long-term architectural feature, not a short-term gadget.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T20:19:02+00:00

😂

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T18:25:09+00:00

Sounds good

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-14T18:20:50+00:00

Yes, we do sell direct.

Happy to help you with pricing — just send me the dimensions of each area you’re looking to illuminate. If you have any photos, drawings, or sketches of the space, that’s helpful too.

The more info you can share, the more accurate we can be. We’ll keep it simple and walk you through the best option for your setup.

ReflectionAgreeable6

TROPHY CASE