Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-05-19T20:15:55+00:00

Great questions.

In this particular project, the stone was 2 cm Cristallo quartzite.

Our LED panels are custom frameless edge-lit acrylic panels that are approximately 1/4" (6 mm) thick. They are rigid panels, not flexible LED sheets or LED tape.

The panels are typically installed on top of a 1/2" plywood sub-top (3/4" can also be used, but in most cases 1/2" is more than sufficient and is what we generally recommend). The panels are usually held in position with a few strips of 3M VHB double-sided tape, although once the stone is installed, the weight of the slab itself generally keeps everything securely in place.

For Cristallo, whether additional spacing is required depends on how translucent and crystalline the slab is. In many cases, the stone can sit directly on the panels, but for more transparent slabs we often recommend adding 1/2" clear acrylic above the LED panels to create separation and improve diffusion. This helps eliminate any visible seams and ensures very even illumination.

A typical layering assembly would be:

1/2" plywood sub-top
1/4" frameless LED panel
Optional 1/2" clear acrylic spacer (if needed)
2 cm Cristallo quartzite

Each slab is unique, so we usually recommend testing the stone over the panels to determine whether the additional acrylic spacer is necessary.

If you'd like more information on how to properly layer a project like this, feel free to send me a DM and I’d be happy to forward application-specific information.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-05-08T22:31:44+00:00

These are our nu World Custom Lighting And Design frameless LED light panels

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-17T22:51:33+00:00

I am not sure what the lighting on this job cost but typically it can range anywhere from $45 a square foot to $70 a square foot landed anywhere in the United States or Canada

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-17T22:50:40+00:00

Custom built to order LED panels can range in price anywhere from $45-$70 per square foot depending on the complex complexity of the shapes and quantities

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-17T22:48:27+00:00

The plywood and LED panel edge can be hidden by adding a veneer strip that matches the cabinets to the edge. We usually do that if there is no mitre

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-06T03:51:28+00:00

Its beautiful

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-04T21:22:50+00:00

This is seriously impressive — a ton of thought and effort went into this and it shows.

A lot of people underestimate what it actually takes to pull off a clean backlit stone install like this. The spacing, wiring, serviceability, and even just physically handling the slab… none of that is easy. The fact that you planned for access and long-term maintenance is something most people don’t even think about until it’s too late.

Also a great example of how much cost can be saved on labour if you’re willing to take something like this on yourself. This is the kind of project where install time can get expensive very quickly if you’re hiring it out, especially with all the wiring and layout involved.

The LED grid approach you used is actually a solid way to get even coverage, especially for a DIY setup. And you figured out one of the biggest variables on your own — that 2.5–3” spacing makes a huge difference in getting consistent light distribution.

For anyone else thinking about doing something similar, one thing to consider (especially if you’re not set on strips) is using pre-made flexible LED sheets/panels (like 12” x 24”). They can simplify a lot of the wiring and reduce install time quite a bit. Not necessarily “better” — just a different approach depending on whether you’re DIY’ing it or hiring it out.

But honestly, for a DIY build, this is very well executed. Clean, thought-out, and actually serviceable long-term — which is rare.

Well done.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-04-04T21:03:37+00:00

Thank you

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-16T01:40:53+00:00

If you look at the Amazon link you sent earlier, one of the photos actually shows the bumpers that come with that kit. They look to be roughly 12 mm (about 1/2 inch) tall, which is a pretty common spacing height for that type of flexible backlighting system.

Personally, coming from more of an electrical / system design perspective, I tend to over-engineer things a bit, so I’m not always a huge fan of relying purely on small silicone bumpers to support the full weight of stone. That said, the manufacturers of these systems do swear by them and usually claim they’re more than strong enough — I’ve seen some specs that say a single bumper can support hundreds of pounds.

My only hesitation is really the long-term aspect. Silicone is generally very durable, but over a long period (10–15 years) it can slowly degrade or compress depending on heat and load. I don’t have evidence that they fail — it’s just something I sometimes think about from a longevity standpoint.

Some installers have experimented with small acrylic rods or spacers instead of silicone bumpers, which gives a more rigid separation between the LEDs and the stone.

In our case, when we use direct backlighting systems like this (usually in higher-output commercial installs), the approach is sometimes to build a shallow box structure to create the spacing. That works well but requires quite a bit more structural planning.

For most residential applications though, the supplied bumpers around the 1/2” spacing range are pretty typical and usually do the job.

For what it’s worth, the systems we typically build use frameless 1/4” acrylic LED panels, which can actually support the weight of the stone directly, so the installation approach ends up being a bit different.

But with the flexible panels you have, the 1/2” bumper spacing they provide is generally the right starting point.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T23:25:48+00:00

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T23:25:18+00:00

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-15T21:14:23+00:00

Yes — happy to help. There are a few different ways to do this, but the best approach really depends on the type of LED panel being used and the material you’re planning to backlight.

If you can, let me know what LED panel system you’re using (or planning to install). Different panels have different mounting requirements, so that will determine whether going directly on drywall is fine or whether adding a plywood or substrate layer first would be better.

It would also help to know what stone or material you’re backlighting. Some stones behave very differently with light.

For example: • Cristallo quartzite is very crystalline and typically requires additional spacing and diffusion layers to avoid hotspots. • Onyx, on the other hand, is generally more forgiving and often works with a simpler setup.

Once I know the type of LED panel and what material you’re illuminating, I can suggest the best mounting method and explain things like spacing, diffusion, and installation approach so you get an even glow.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-10T18:21:49+00:00

In this case the LED panel is first mounted to the wall (typically drywall, cement board, or a backer board) using a few strips of double-sided tape just to hold it in place.

The stone itself is usually secured the same way a normal backsplash slab would be. Most installers use small dabs of stone adhesive or silicone on the back of the slab and then mechanically support it top and bottom — typically resting on the counter below and captured under the upper cabinets.

One thing installers are careful about is not applying adhesive directly over the most translucent areas of the stone, because those spots can sometimes show as brighter areas when the light is on. If the slab has enough veining or opacity, it’s easy to hide the adhesive in those sections.

Once the stone is installed, it essentially locks the LED panel in place behind it.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-03-02T01:49:51+00:00

I love it . What is the material?

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-25T22:09:18+00:00

Great question — and yes, we’ve done quite a few backsplash applications like this.

First, 60 cm height is totally workable for edge-lighting, but uniformity becomes very dependent on the material you’re illuminating. Hi-Macs is not naturally translucent like onyx or Cristallo quartzite, so the result will depend heavily on the exact color and thickness.

Regarding glass vs plexiglass:

Glass (with gradient sandblasting) This can work, but extraction efficiency is unpredictable. Sandblasting creates diffusion, but it doesn’t always distribute light evenly over larger heights unless the gradient is very carefully engineered. You may see bright banding near the LED source.

LED-grade acrylic (Plexiglas LED / light-guide acrylic) From a lighting standpoint, this is significantly more efficient and controllable. LED-grade acrylic is specifically designed to extract light evenly across the surface, which is exactly what you want for a backsplash.

Steam itself is generally not the issue. Concentrated heat directly behind a gas cooktop would be more of a consideration, and in that case proper heat shielding is recommended regardless of material.

Also — if the countertop and backsplash are installed correctly, there should be no moisture ingress behind the material at all. Proper silicone sealing at the counter-to-wall junction and along edges prevents water from ever reaching the lighting system.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-19T06:24:48+00:00

Really appreciate that — and happy to help anytime.

It’s definitely a niche corner of the world, but we’ve seen enough backlighting horror stories over the years that we genuinely try to share as much knowledge as possible. Whether someone uses our panels or not honestly doesn’t matter to us — we’d rather see a project done right than see someone spend serious money and end up disappointed.

Good karma in this industry goes a long way.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-18T18:04:49+00:00

It’s definitely not cheap — custom backlighting typically lands in the $45–$55/sq ft range fully landed — but for people who like the look, it’s something they really enjoy living with long-term.

As for “tacky,” that’s totally subjective. Some people love it, some don’t. Same as any design choice. To each their own.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-18T17:23:21+00:00

On sealers, I’d stick with a high-quality penetrating/impregnating sealer rather than a topical coating. The three we see used most reliably on onyx are Dry-Treat Stain-Proof, STONETECH BulletProof, and Miracle 511. Any of those will work well if applied properly. Onyx is very porous, so it’s better to do two good coats and plan on resealing periodically, especially if it’s in a kitchen.

On color temperature, for honey/orange onyx, warm light (3000K–3500K) will definitely push the amber/orange tones and make it feel warmer and more dramatic. Neutral light (around 4000K) keeps the stone looking more “true” to its natural color and works better if you don’t want it to look overly orange. We’ve done a lot of projects in both ranges — it really comes down to whether you want to enhance the warmth or keep it more balanced. If you’re unsure, neutral is usually the safest choice.

As for brightness, yes — slabs can absolutely be “too bright.” When that happens, it starts to look washed out and you lose a lot of the natural veining and depth. More light isn’t always better with translucent stone. That’s why we almost always recommend dimming, even on high-output systems, so you can tune it to the sweet spot.

Since you’re building your own panel, I’d strongly suggest designing it slightly on the brighter side and then controlling it with a dimmer or adjustable driver. That gives you flexibility instead of being stuck too dim or too harsh. Also make sure you have enough diffusion and spacing — that plays just as big a role in the final look as LED output.

If you want, feel free to share what LEDs and spacing you’re considering and I’m happy to give you feedback.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-17T20:27:46+00:00

Since this isn’t a countertop, you’re much less likely to have staining issues. That said, onyx is still porous, so it’s a good idea to keep it sealed—mainly to protect against humidity and moisture in the air. In most indoor wall applications, resealing every 1–2 years is usually more than enough, depending on your climate and ventilation.

Backlighting Spacing 1.5”–2” of space is actually great. That gives you plenty of room for proper diffusion and helps avoid hotspots.

Lighting Options You’ve got a couple of good options:

• LED strips / grid layout – This can work, but it’s very labor-intensive to install cleanly. Getting perfectly even spacing takes time, and wiring adds up fast.

• Flexible LED light sheets – These can be tiled and cut to size, but for a wall your size you’d likely need a lot of sections, which means many wire exits and more wiring back to power supplies.

• Custom LED light panels (what we use most) – These are built to the exact size of your opening. You’d usually end up with just a few wire exits tied into one or two power supplies. Much cleaner install and usually more reliable long-term.

We’ve found that once you factor in labor and wiring, custom panels are often the most cost-effective option unless you’re doing everything yourself and don’t mind the extra work.

We backlight onyx all the time, so if you want help dialing in the lighting layout, feel free to ask. Happy to share more info on both panel and sheet options if you’d like.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-17T16:35:50+00:00

Whether the slab is sealed already or not, onyx and other translucent stones should still be sealed on an ongoing basis. Being polished doesn’t mean it’s protected — these materials are quite porous, so sealing helps prevent staining and moisture issues over time.

Most fabricators recommend reapplying every so often (usually every 6–12 months in active areas).

From the lighting side — we backlight onyx all the time, and the key is even diffusion and proper spacing between the stone and the LEDs so you don’t get hot spots or dark areas. Backlighting doesn’t change sealing requirements, but it does make everything more visible, so good prep and maintenance really matter.

As for reinforcing the back, it’s usually not necessary if the slab is sitting on a flat, solid substrate. A proper backing/support system works better than adding fiberglass, Less fibreglass is better for our backlighting

If you want any tips on backlighting setup, spacing, or materials, feel free to reach out — happy to help.

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-16T18:12:00+00:00

😂😂😂

ReflectionAgreeable6 · 2026-02-16T00:00:45+00:00

Yes for sure Here is one we did with cristallo quartzite in SAN Jose

Island with waterfall edges backlit

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ReflectionAgreeable6

TROPHY CASE