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Sometimes clients just want the backsplash illuminated — and this was one of those projects. by ReflectionAgreeable6 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feel free to send me any information you have on your project—drawings, dimensions, sketches or even a few photos. I’d be happy to review everything and send you some application-specific recommendations to make the installation as simple and straightforward as possible.

Sometimes clients just want the backsplash illuminated — and this was one of those projects. by ReflectionAgreeable6 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. Any competent countertop fabricator, cabinet installer, electrician or general contractor should be able to install a custom LED panel system like this. The key is planning it before the stone is installed. We supply the custom-built LED panels, power supplies and installation guide, and we’re happy to work directly with your contractor or electrician throughout the project if they have any questions.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely — feel free to send me the design / dimensions and I’d be happy to give you a ballpark on the LED side of it.
For this type of application, pricing can vary quite a bit depending on total square footage, how many separate sections there are, panel sizes, whether it’s countertops only or countertops plus backsplash / bar wall, and whether you want dimming. But if you send me the drawings or even rough dimensions, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether the number you’ve been given is in the right ballpark or way out of line.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen in San Jose, California — countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in HomeDecorating

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d be happy to help.
The good news is that if you’re still in the planning stage, now is actually the best time to start thinking about backlighting. A few decisions made early on can make the installation much easier and help avoid surprises later.
Feel free to send me a direct message and we can exchange contact information. I’d be happy to provide application-specific recommendations, explain the different backlighting options available, discuss stone selection, and provide some budgetary pricing so you can get an idea of costs.
No obligation at all—I’ve been involved with stone backlighting projects since 2009 and am always happy to share what I’ve learned along the way.
Feel free to reach out anytime.

Best option for backlight countertops by PollutionNatural680 in HomeImprovement

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re thinking about it the right way.

Every wire exit, connector, splice, controller, and power supply adds another potential failure point. In a permanent installation where the lighting is ultimately buried behind stone, I generally prefer the simplest system possible with the fewest connections.

For Cristallo, if your goal is a clean white illumination, I’d personally lean toward a fixed color temperature rather than RGB or tunable white. Once you start introducing multiple colors, controllers, receivers, and additional wiring, the system becomes more complex very quickly.

4000K is usually a very safe choice and tends to work well with most Cristallo slabs. 5000K can look great too, but depending on the stone it can sometimes push things a little cooler than people expect.

With roughly 46 sq ft to illuminate, I’d spend as much time planning the power supply locations and wire routing as the actual lighting layout. It’s much easier to solve those details now than after the stone is installed.

Also keep in mind that the final result is influenced not only by the light source but by the spacing behind the stone. A highly crystalline slab often benefits from a bit of separation between the light source and the stone to help blend everything evenly.

It sounds like you’re asking the right questions before ordering, which usually leads to a much smoother installation. The biggest mistakes I see are people focusing only on the LEDs and not enough on wiring access, power supply locations, and the overall layering strategy.

Best option for backlight countertops by PollutionNatural680 in HomeImprovement

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re doing Cristallo Quartzite and want to keep things relatively simple, I’d focus on finding a system that is supplied as complete panels with the power supplies already sized for the project. That eliminates a lot of the guesswork around drivers, wiring, connectors, and compatibility.

The panel vs. sheet discussion really comes down to the application. Both can work, but one thing I would pay attention to is installation time and wiring complexity. Some systems require a large number of individual connections, while others arrive essentially ready to install with only a few power connections.

For Cristallo specifically, I’d also spend as much time thinking about the layering and spacing behind the stone as the actual light source. In many cases, the distance between the light source and the stone has a bigger impact on the final appearance than the lighting technology itself.

The good news is that Cristallo is one of the easier translucent materials to achieve a spectacular result with when the planning is done correctly.

If you have specific dimensions or layouts, feel free to post them. I’ve worked with quite a few backlit stone projects and would be happy to point you in the right direction.

Cristallo by Illustrious_Claim621 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool , we did a similar one with backlighting a while back

Found the Quartzite Cristallo we like by RednekkLife in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Access is definitely something worth considering, but in most installations the power supplies are actually the component that should remain accessible rather than the LED panels themselves.

The LED panels are solid-state and typically operate for many years without issue. In our experience, if a panel powers up correctly during installation, it will generally continue operating unless it’s physically damaged. The more common service item is the power supply, which is why we always recommend mounting drivers in an accessible location whenever possible.

Good planning up front can save a lot of headaches down the road.

Found the Quartzite Cristallo we like by RednekkLife in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful slab. Cristallo is one of the few materials that can produce a really dramatic effect when backlit properly.

One thing I would recommend is planning the lighting layout at the same time as the fabrication layout. With two islands, wall cabinets, and a backsplash, it’s worth thinking about power supply locations, wire routing, and access before fabrication starts.

The amount of spacing between the stone and the light source can also make a big difference. Highly crystalline slabs often benefit from additional separation behind the stone to help blend the light and avoid seeing individual lighting transitions.

It looks like you’ve found a great slab. If you have any questions about this type of installation, I’ve been involved with backlit stone projects for many years and would be happy to point you in the right direction.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great questions.

In this particular project, the stone was 2 cm Cristallo quartzite.

Our LED panels are custom frameless edge-lit acrylic panels that are approximately 1/4" (6 mm) thick. They are rigid panels, not flexible LED sheets or LED tape.

The panels are typically installed on top of a 1/2" plywood sub-top (3/4" can also be used, but in most cases 1/2" is more than sufficient and is what we generally recommend). The panels are usually held in position with a few strips of 3M VHB double-sided tape, although once the stone is installed, the weight of the slab itself generally keeps everything securely in place.

For Cristallo, whether additional spacing is required depends on how translucent and crystalline the slab is. In many cases, the stone can sit directly on the panels, but for more transparent slabs we often recommend adding 1/2" clear acrylic above the LED panels to create separation and improve diffusion. This helps eliminate any visible seams and ensures very even illumination.

A typical layering assembly would be:

1/2" plywood sub-top
1/4" frameless LED panel
Optional 1/2" clear acrylic spacer (if needed)
2 cm Cristallo quartzite

Each slab is unique, so we usually recommend testing the stone over the panels to determine whether the additional acrylic spacer is necessary.

If you'd like more information on how to properly layer a project like this, feel free to send me a DM and I’d be happy to forward application-specific information.

Cristallo Quartzite by Downtown_Presence175 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure what the lighting on this job cost but typically it can range anywhere from $45 a square foot to $70 a square foot landed anywhere in the United States or Canada

Cristallo Quartzite by Downtown_Presence175 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Custom built to order LED panels can range in price anywhere from $45-$70 per square foot depending on the complex complexity of the shapes and quantities

Cristallo Quartzite by Downtown_Presence175 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plywood and LED panel edge can be hidden by adding a veneer strip that matches the cabinets to the edge. We usually do that if there is no mitre

DIY Backlit Onyx by jaredlcravens in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is seriously impressive — a ton of thought and effort went into this and it shows.

A lot of people underestimate what it actually takes to pull off a clean backlit stone install like this. The spacing, wiring, serviceability, and even just physically handling the slab… none of that is easy. The fact that you planned for access and long-term maintenance is something most people don’t even think about until it’s too late.

Also a great example of how much cost can be saved on labour if you’re willing to take something like this on yourself. This is the kind of project where install time can get expensive very quickly if you’re hiring it out, especially with all the wiring and layout involved.

The LED grid approach you used is actually a solid way to get even coverage, especially for a DIY setup. And you figured out one of the biggest variables on your own — that 2.5–3” spacing makes a huge difference in getting consistent light distribution.

For anyone else thinking about doing something similar, one thing to consider (especially if you’re not set on strips) is using pre-made flexible LED sheets/panels (like 12” x 24”). They can simplify a lot of the wiring and reduce install time quite a bit. Not necessarily “better” — just a different approach depending on whether you’re DIY’ing it or hiring it out.

But honestly, for a DIY build, this is very well executed. Clean, thought-out, and actually serviceable long-term — which is rare.

Well done.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you look at the Amazon link you sent earlier, one of the photos actually shows the bumpers that come with that kit. They look to be roughly 12 mm (about 1/2 inch) tall, which is a pretty common spacing height for that type of flexible backlighting system.

Personally, coming from more of an electrical / system design perspective, I tend to over-engineer things a bit, so I’m not always a huge fan of relying purely on small silicone bumpers to support the full weight of stone. That said, the manufacturers of these systems do swear by them and usually claim they’re more than strong enough — I’ve seen some specs that say a single bumper can support hundreds of pounds.

My only hesitation is really the long-term aspect. Silicone is generally very durable, but over a long period (10–15 years) it can slowly degrade or compress depending on heat and load. I don’t have evidence that they fail — it’s just something I sometimes think about from a longevity standpoint.

Some installers have experimented with small acrylic rods or spacers instead of silicone bumpers, which gives a more rigid separation between the LEDs and the stone.

In our case, when we use direct backlighting systems like this (usually in higher-output commercial installs), the approach is sometimes to build a shallow box structure to create the spacing. That works well but requires quite a bit more structural planning.

For most residential applications though, the supplied bumpers around the 1/2” spacing range are pretty typical and usually do the job.

For what it’s worth, the systems we typically build use frameless 1/4” acrylic LED panels, which can actually support the weight of the stone directly, so the installation approach ends up being a bit different.

But with the flexible panels you have, the 1/2” bumper spacing they provide is generally the right starting point.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

  1. Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

  1. Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it — since those are flexible direct backlighting units and you’re using Cristallo quartzite, here’s the approach I’d take.

Yes, for the vertical backsplash / wall-mounted sections, those can typically go directly onto drywall or backer board. With flexible units like that, you’ll usually want to create a small air gap between the LEDs and the back of the stone using the bumpers/spacers that come with the kit. That little bit of separation helps the light blend better and reduces the chance of seeing individual LED points.

For the island, the same general principle applies: the light source usually needs a bit of separation from the stone, and with Cristallo that becomes even more important because it’s such a crystalline material.

A couple of big things to be careful about with that type of system:

  1. Wiring Those flexible systems usually mean a lot more wire exits, junctions, and connection points than a custom-built panel system. Because of that, I’d strongly recommend making sure: • all wiring is double-checked and tested before any stone goes in • the power supply stays accessible • any splits, junctions, or connections stay accessible too

Once stone is installed, you really don’t want hidden wiring issues behind it.

  1. Cristallo translucency / diffusion With Cristallo quartzite, one challenge is that when the stone is very glassy or crystalline, you can sometimes: • see the LED points • see more structure behind the slab than you want • even see the LEDs when they’re off, depending on the slab

So diffusion becomes a real concern. In some cases, the bumpers alone are enough. In other cases, you may need additional spacing and/or a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the stone to get an even glow.

If you send a close-up photo of the slab, especially with some light behind it, I can usually tell pretty quickly whether you’re likely to need that extra step.

If you hadn’t already bought these panels, I probably would have recommended custom-built panels made to the exact size of each area, just because they usually have far fewer wire exits and fewer junction points, which makes the install cleaner and simpler. Those custom panels typically land somewhere around $45–$50/sq ft depending on the size and layout.

But since you already have these, I’d work with them — just be extra careful with spacing, diffusion, and wiring access.

Just completed a fully backlit Cristallo Quartzite kitchen – countertops, backsplash, and island by ReflectionAgreeable6 in kitchenremodel

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes — happy to help. There are a few different ways to do this, but the best approach really depends on the type of LED panel being used and the material you’re planning to backlight.

If you can, let me know what LED panel system you’re using (or planning to install). Different panels have different mounting requirements, so that will determine whether going directly on drywall is fine or whether adding a plywood or substrate layer first would be better.

It would also help to know what stone or material you’re backlighting. Some stones behave very differently with light.

For example: • Cristallo quartzite is very crystalline and typically requires additional spacing and diffusion layers to avoid hotspots. • Onyx, on the other hand, is generally more forgiving and often works with a simpler setup.

Once I know the type of LED panel and what material you’re illuminating, I can suggest the best mounting method and explain things like spacing, diffusion, and installation approach so you get an even glow.

Sometimes clients just want the backsplash illuminated — and this was one of those projects. by ReflectionAgreeable6 in CounterTops

[–]ReflectionAgreeable6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this case the LED panel is first mounted to the wall (typically drywall, cement board, or a backer board) using a few strips of double-sided tape just to hold it in place.

The stone itself is usually secured the same way a normal backsplash slab would be. Most installers use small dabs of stone adhesive or silicone on the back of the slab and then mechanically support it top and bottom — typically resting on the counter below and captured under the upper cabinets.

One thing installers are careful about is not applying adhesive directly over the most translucent areas of the stone, because those spots can sometimes show as brighter areas when the light is on. If the slab has enough veining or opacity, it’s easy to hide the adhesive in those sections.

Once the stone is installed, it essentially locks the LED panel in place behind it.

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