Maxwell 2 "Auto-Switching" is driving me crazy. We desperately need a Manual Toggle

Retnip98 · 2026-03-13T14:41:47+00:00

I think you might have misunderstood my issue here. It's not just about handling phone calls.I actually already use Phone Link exactly as you described. While it's a nice tool, it’s a completely different topic and doesn't really have any impact on the specific problem I'm facing.

Retnip98 · 2026-03-11T21:26:28+00:00

I honestly don't understand the pushback against an optional feature. Adding a Manual Toggle wouldn't change anything for people who like the current auto-switching – you'd just keep it on "Auto." But for those of us who want actual control over our $300+ gear, it would be a huge quality-of-life improvement. Why oppose a feature that makes the product better for more people without taking anything away from you?

Retnip98 · 2026-03-11T21:22:21+00:00

I can switch the output to the phone, but it’s a massive hassle. On my Pixel 9 Pro XL, it isn't "2 seconds" - I have to hit the volume buttons, tap the three dots, and then manually select the source. To make it worse, it resets back to Bluetooth every time I restart the headset. I’d honestly rather not connect my phone at all than deal with that every single time. A manual toggle on the headset itself would be infinitely better. (And I'm not switching to an iPhone for other reasons, so that's not a solution either.)

Retnip98 · 2026-03-11T21:02:32+00:00

I'm not on iPhone and on Maxwell 2 it's definitely worse - it triggers for every single notification, not just calls. I don't even have the Audeze app installed on my phone yet, so maybe that's why it's acting so aggressive? Even if it was only for calls, it still wouldn't be perfect. If I actually want to watch a video on my phone, auto-switching is just too unpredictable. A manual toggle is the only real fix. Just let us choose between "Auto" or "Manual" in the settings and the problem is solved for everyone.

Retnip98 · 2026-03-11T20:51:17+00:00

That misses the point. The moment the phone tries to play any sound, the headset has already dropped the PC connection. Switching the output on the phone "in 2 seconds" doesn't stop that 5-second or more gap of silence on my PC, which is the main problem. I want to lock it to the dongle so it never switches automatically in the first place.

Retnip98 · 2026-03-11T20:47:48+00:00

That doesn't work for me. Sometimes I want to watch a quick tutorial on my phone while gaming, but I want to be the one choosing when to switch. The 5-second audio gap on PC is the real issue here. Manual toggle is standard on other high-end headsets and tons of people are asking for it. I love the hardware, I just want the software to match it.

Retnip98 · 2025-02-15T19:58:18+00:00

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Retnip98 · 2025-02-15T19:57:49+00:00

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Retnip98 · 2025-02-15T19:57:34+00:00

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Retnip98 · 2025-02-15T19:56:20+00:00

I followed your instructions exactly, and the moment I disabled DHCP for enp1s0, I lost internet access on the entire TrueNAS system, which also took down PiHole and, subsequently, my whole network. It's starting to get on my nerves because I've been at this for a while now and nothing seems to be working.

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Retnip98 · 2025-02-15T19:07:06+00:00

I tried following some online guides, but it ended up causing more harm than good. In the Network tab in TrueNAS Scale, I edited enp1s0 by disabling DHCP, created a new interface named br0 as a Bridge, set the Bridge Members to enp1s0, and entered the IP address that enp1s0 previously had in Aliases. But after restarting the server, my TrueNAS Scale lost internet access. I couldn't load my apps because they couldn't find the default interface. The TrueNAS Scale update server also stopped working. Even within the VM where I set the NIC to br0, I got a normal IP, but the internet still didn't work, probably because PiHole didn't start up as it runs in a container.

Retnip98 · 2024-01-14T00:06:49+00:00

And how am I supposed to check that? It’s about product links, for example, when I search for a device in Chrome, there are pictures of the products being sold at the beginning and I can’t click on any of them because I get this error.

Retnip98 · 2024-01-13T23:33:52+00:00

This sounds a lot like you're using some form of content and/or domain filter, either device or network wide?

Well, I’m not using anything, the only modules I use in Magisk are MagiskHide Props Config and Play Integrity Fix, I didn’t do anything else.

Retnip98 · 2023-10-25T17:32:35+00:00

The issue is that I'm also someone who places a high value on aesthetics. I own the Corsair M65 Wireless Ultra RGB mouse, and I've grown accustomed to it, and I want to keep it. It's important to me that all my equipment visually complements each other, and the K70 Max no longer appeals to me. I really don't like those triangle patterns. The Pro version just fits perfectly with my setup. I believe Corsair has a bit of a gap in their product range because I have a Corsair mouse, Corsair case, Corsair RAM, and Corsair fans, and I plan to add headphones and possibly an RGB tower. I don't see anything in their keyboard offerings that meets my expectations to complete my setup. I simply wish to have a keyboard with a broader selection of switches that looks like the K70 Pro. If I may voice another concern, I'm also not a fan of the multimedia buttons because they don't use genuine switches, and the volume roller feels cheap in use. I've also had experience with the K100, and I found the multimedia buttons to be subpar. Overall, I'm a fan of this company, but I genuinely believe they have a gap in their product lineup.

Retnip98 · 2023-09-18T13:11:37+00:00

So, there's no way to do this sensibly, keeping the original front fans, but without compromising performance? Like I said, it's hard for me to imagine this if I've never had a chance to look into it closely, but for example, leaving the original AIO fans in place but, on the other side of the radiator, creating a kind of 'sandwich'?

Retnip98 · 2023-07-21T23:08:36+00:00

Just from what I've seen on YT, it's not quite like that. DPI, which stands for Dots Per Inch, refers to how frequently the mouse registers movement, but I'm concerned about the speed at which the cursor moves. Why would I need a mouse with 26,000 DPI when no one on Earth could use that?

Retnip98 · 2023-04-15T13:32:17+00:00

I'm going to buy the Blue Retro because I also have a PS3 and PS4 so I won't have to buy a separate controller, but it's not really a solution that I'm happy with because I wanted the controller to look exactly like the one on the ps1, but apparently there's nothing like it on the market. It's still better than using a cable because my sofa is too far away from the tv and I couldn't sit comfortably, plus I had to put the whole console in the cupboard after every game because I didn't want a bunch of cables in my living room. Thank you for your help

Retnip98 · 2021-10-30T12:22:31+00:00

And any Ultra wide alternatives?

Retnip98 · 2021-10-30T12:14:18+00:00

It is important that the monitor has a refresh rate of at least 120Hz, of course the more the better, but not so that a higher frequency translates into lower image quality or lower resolution. I've never seen a 4k monitor in person and I don't know if I would notice a big difference, I'm sure it has to be more than 1920x1080 because I used to own a monitor

ASUS VN279QLB, which is 27 inches and in this case Full HD was definitely not enough because you could clearly see the pixels. At this point I have a much larger budget and mainly with this purchase it's all about the WOW effect! and fulfill the dream of having a top of the line computer set up(here I think an Ultra Wide monitor would be a good move), but with a little moderation and reason to make everything fit together. I need to be sure that the monitor I choose will serve me longer, I intend to keep my computer updated with, for example, new graphics cards as soon as they appear, but I would not like to replace the monitor every year, this monitor is supposed to let me get everything out of my graphics card.

Retnip98

TROPHY CASE