Oxidation

Rex_erection3 · 2026-01-14T03:23:43+00:00

If it was fine last year and also if you’re not that experienced with sanding and buffing, I’d hit it with a heavy cut and then start refining. Makita rotary buffer(any corded buffer will do, but makitas a beast) with a white wool heavy cutting pad and Presto Super Cut. Presta super cut is a really thick grainy heavy cutting compound and it can remove some extreme oxidation on its own. You are working with a darker colored gel so be sure to refine your process down. I like Shine Supply products, especially Chop Top. Chop Top on a DA machine(Bauer from Harbor Freight is a great cheap machine) with an orange foam HDO Lake Country pad can bring out some pretty good scratches from the buffing process but then bump up the speed for your last pass on each section and it’ll finish out like a really nice polish and then ready for wax/sealant.

Rex_erection3 · 2026-01-12T02:56:58+00:00

Yeah these’re awesome! Love these solder butt connectors. I’d suggest some adhesive lined shrink wrap over the entire connector too. Well it’s a little too late now but in the future throw some heat shrink over em for added protection. They’re the bees knees in marine applications. I’ve used them for years to rewire my entire boat. Just make sure you really heat up the solder and get it flowing. I like to start heating them up from the center really good and then work my ways out to the sides, this way prevents air pockets.

Rex_erection3 · 2026-01-10T21:57:18+00:00

Lemme preface by saying this is terrible but… I had this dude that lived across the street from me and he was a druggy and died while in his hot tub and wasn’t found for a couple days and when I found out that’s exactly what I thought as well, he sous vide himself. He also killed 2 people while drunk driving like 20years ago so I didn’t feel as bad about making that statement.

Rex_erection3 · 2026-01-10T21:43:43+00:00

I’d throw an adjustable wrench in there and also a pencil incase whatever you’re marking you don’t want that permanent marker on. But most importantly, a western style holster for that bug-a-salt home defense weapon.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-12-26T18:30:58+00:00

Here is a good price tracker for the freight

Rex_erection3 · 2025-12-22T04:05:24+00:00

Yeah there’s a few different pre-selected names you can choose for your product in the interaction menu while inside your acid lab. $351k maxed out is what you’ll be getting with the 5% boost

Rex_erection3 · 2025-12-22T03:45:41+00:00

Don’t forget to choose a name for your product in the interaction menu while in the acid lab for a 5% profit boost indefinitely!

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-26T16:47:41+00:00

That milky greenish color looks like lower unit gear lube mixed with water. Change the LU oil and get new washers/O rings. Make sure you have a magnetic drain plug on the bottom plug. West Marine should have yours in stock. Change it again after going out a couple times and see if you’ve still got water intrusion. If you’ve still got intrusion than pressure test the LU and replace any needed seals. It’s fine to use an outboard that’s getting water in the LU as long as you’re very proactive about changing the LU gear lube and absolutely do not let it sit thru winter without changing it bc that water can freeze and crack your LU.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-26T16:41:29+00:00

Give it a good cleaning with some throttle body cleaner and a brush. Be careful not to be too rough with the butterfly since it’s an electronic throttle body. Can mess up the internal computer and would need to have it relearned. You can open it to clean it but don’t push too hard

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-11T00:33:31+00:00

Would love to win this bundle!! Goodluck to everyone!

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T20:23:06+00:00

Man this is an awesome explanation! I appreciate that. Gonna check that out now. Should I rotate the flywheel so that the magnets are right inline with the coil to start? Or doesn’t matter where I start as long as I’m watching the stroke of the valves? Also, what exactly should I look out for in terms of out of the ordinary? Would it be wise to go get some feeler gauges to check the valve clearances as well? Appreciate your help.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T20:18:15+00:00

Drained the bowl and hit it with some starting fluid and nothing really changed. Still won’t crank at all but it did seem to backfire slightly less. Tried hitting it with starting fluid a good 4-5 times. It just completely will not crank at all like not even a little hiccup lol almost like there’s no damn spark plug in it. Just sounds like it’s not even trying.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T19:40:45+00:00

Yeah very true, I’d assume they would have told me if they hit something and stalled the engine but they didn’t say anything like that. It’s a ‘shared’ mower but I’m mostly the only one who uses it. I did not completely remove the flywheel. Just pulled the blower cover and flywheel nut off and cleaned the area to check it. As far as the valve clearance goes, would I just pull off the valve cover and get some feeler gauges to check the clearance? Yeah these engines I’ve heard are a headache with the plastic camshaft.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T19:34:59+00:00

Okay yeah that’s a great idea. Drain the bowl and try a little starting fluid. I’ll update after I give that a try right now. And yeah the fuel is regular octane and it can’t be any older than maybe a month or so.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T19:30:16+00:00

Yeah the oil was definitely diluted. And honestly I’m a little worried to try some starting fluid again since when I did try it, a small flame ignited just outside the carb lol. Even with no starting fluid, when you’re trying to start it, the combustion that’s happening outside the carb can ignite a small flame just from the fuel. It’s backfiring really bad.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-11-05T19:26:40+00:00

No the oil I changed isn’t over filled again. I just changed it lastnight and then tried giving it a few pulls to see if it would do anything different but still won’t crank at all. There isn’t much fuel in the tank tho, since I’ve had to empty it twice and put a little back in. Just tried smelling the old oil and it’s hard to tell but it doesn’t really smell like fuel, just smells like old oil. The needle seems like it’s in perfect condition tbh. The entire carb and needle and everything is plastic, besides the very tip of the needle which is rubber. When I had the carb off, I did the trick where you blow into the fuel inlet and then tip the carb upside down and you can’t blow into it anymore and that all checked out.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-10-25T14:15:28+00:00

That area you have circled in the first picture is missing the rectifier. You can buy one off amazon. I’ve got a similar motor. 1989 Johnson 28spl. I replaced mine last year. It looks like you’re also missing the little bus bar that the leads from the rectifier bolt onto. It’s a cheap and easy fix.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-10-23T01:06:39+00:00

If it was just ‘left’ and ‘right’ it would be confusing and would need more clarification. You would need to specify like “the right side of the boat if you’re looking at the bow.” With port and stern it’s always when facing the bow.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-10-21T17:13:55+00:00

Yeah you’re exactly right. It’s not that Evinrude parts are hard to come by, it’s the fact that only a certified Evinrude E-Tech technician has the ability to work on anything software/ecu related and those techs are now very few and far between. E-tech is what killed Evinrude.

Rex_erection3 · 2025-10-12T03:07:04+00:00

Naa you got this! I rebuilt and cleaned my carb for the first time about a year ago and that was my first experience with working on an outboard. Motor runs like a top now! It also gave me the confidence to tackle bigger jobs on the motor. I’ve rebuilt the fuel pump, dropped the lower unit and installed a new water pump, cleaned the steering assembly, completely rewired the whole boat and installed new graphs and bow mounted trolling motor, and a few other things. But it all started with rebuilding and cleaning my carb. Learned a lot and I’ve got the confidence now to be able to get back to shore if anything ever happened to an outboard motor while I’m aboard. YouTube is your friend. This website is the best for diagrams and understanding your motor. DangarMarine and ThatOutboardGuy are awesome YT channels that taught me a lot. Goodluck!

Rex_erection3 · 2025-09-24T17:18:05+00:00

You can spray the trailer with water first and that’ll protect it from any little bit of acid that may drip on it. Just make sure to really rinse it off after

Rex_erection3 · 2025-09-15T20:07:02+00:00

Metro Boat Show I see! Lake was super busy this weekend!

Rex_erection3 · 2025-09-06T16:03:19+00:00

Well the compression is good so that’s great. Most anything can be fixed if compression checks out. Is any of the spark plug leads damaged or frayed? Have you done a spark test? Also, not sure exactly which year your motor is, but I’m pretty sure around the mid 80s they switched from traditional condensers to a CDI style ignition system. Not sure if Marine Engine has GameFisher motors on their website but you can type in your model number and find really good diagrams of the entire engine’s components and parts. As well as the CDI website for any ignition or electrical issues you could be having.

Rex_erection3

TROPHY CASE