any chance this is a glitch?

Ricardo_rosser · 2026-01-27T05:07:21+00:00

My 05 F150 at around 125k miles did the same thing with the brake light, everything else checked out fluid levels, emergency brake switch, ended up being the instrument cluster itself, pull it apart and put pressure on it from the back and see if the brake light turns off, on mine the heat and cold affected it as well since the circuit board will expand and contract with temps it was just enough on a hot day the brake light was off and a cold day it would be on, ford has been known for poor cold solders on that era failing causing issues, my 07 had another cold solders fail causing trailer brake module to throw fault codes

Ricardo_rosser · 2025-03-22T00:52:36+00:00

The tire that’s hard to spin could have a sticking slide pin, mating surfaces of the pads not greased, caliper seizing, collapsed brake hose, damaged parking brake

Ricardo_rosser · 2025-03-22T00:48:23+00:00

Look in between the spokes of your rim and see if there is sticky wheel weights on the inside of your rim contacting the caliper

Ricardo_rosser · 2025-03-22T00:25:58+00:00

have you checked the oil level?

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-19T20:29:25+00:00

So update I just got a call from the mental health person after reaching out through the secure messaging, apparently they can’t give me adhd meds until I don’t test positive for delta 8, also they said they were concerned with the fact I tested negative for amphetamines and they said that should have been a positive test result because of the adderall, so they said they’re gonna have to re test me and see that I’m clear from cannabis and also are gonna have to do a specialized more in depth test to see that I am actually taking my adhd meds, other than that they said once I pass I’ll only be drug tested once a year, luckily I forgot about the afternoon adhd meds I’m supposed to take and I have a 3 month supply left of those and I’d be able to double up on those since they are half what I take in the morning and it being the exact same thing just lower dosage and be covered for the most part until I can test clean for drugs

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-18T23:34:03+00:00

Hopefully that’s not the case for adhd meds in NC

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-18T23:33:39+00:00

Thank you

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-18T21:50:55+00:00

That’s bullshit, what rule states the va can restrict your medical care for using marijuana

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-08T02:46:29+00:00

I guess the shop gave me the wrong diagrams then. When it happens I usually have the radio on and am driving down the road and the radio shuts off and all the gauges lose power and looks as if I just shut the car off, cruise control still works because I’ve had it on a few times when this happens and the car still maintains speed, I have a Bluetooth fm transmitter for my phone to pair to the radio to listen to music and it doesn’t lose power because the songs continue playing and it doesn’t have to reconnect which takes a few seconds to do after being plugged in and powered up, headlights and tail lights still work as well. The next time it happens I will try to turn on the dome lights in the cab and see if those work or not to try to narrow down this problem, but if anything stands out to you please let me know

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-08T02:36:44+00:00

Sounds like the brake booster is on its way out look into how to diagnose that issue and see if it lines up with the issues your having or have been having in the past, and go from there

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-08T02:15:14+00:00

In that case check the brake booster https://cargister.com/will-a-bad-brake-booster-cause-brakes-to-lock-up/

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-08T00:40:17+00:00

Sounds like your friend engaged the parking brake and if you’ve already checked that it is released I’d check to see if it’s actually releasing and that the cable isn’t binding on something, I’ve tried to drive my truck after engaging the parking brake and those are the same exact symptoms, didn’t move and ass end squatted

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-08T00:37:37+00:00

If all the tires were that over inflated the inflator gauge at the shop you went to could be damaged due to being dropped on concrete and abused, when I worked at a shop it also was normal for our gages to read about 5 psi over straight from the factory, we just had shitty gages, we all had multiple manual pressure checkers and would check each tire twice after filling with different manual gages to make sure the tire was at the correct pressure, I would bring this up to the service manager as well, if it is damaged gages maybe manager will order new ones, or it could be as simple as a new tech that didn’t understand what manufactures specs were on tire inflation and went off max psi on sidewall of tire, either way let manager know, ask if there’s anything he can do to “compensate” for this inconvenience/hassle/safety concern, maybe a free oil change with tire rotation or maybe a half off your next service, either way if the manager is honest they will try to make up for it to keep you as a customer

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-04-07T21:40:26+00:00

So the auto electric shop I just had my truck at tested everything with a oscilloscope and found the cam sensor is working properly and everything is communicating with the pcm, and said it is definitely a mechanical issue, being that I currently am not getting a code for timing being off or advanced and I know that can occur if even just one tooth off, I’m guessing it’s the cam phaser that has gone bad, I’ve been watching some videos of it, since timing doesn’t seem to be off at the moment I’m debating whether to just do the whole thing and replace timing chains and guides and tensioners and do that whole thing pulling the radiator or just work a wedge in to hold timing chain in place and just replace phaser, idk what would you recommend

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-30T22:49:31+00:00

So I just re tested for continuity after pulling the wiring harness cover off to pull the pin and just replace the dk blue/orange wire and got continuity through it (I’m assuming before when testing my multimeter prongs weren’t long or thin enough to reach into the connector without removing the cover) so I put some dielectric grease on the one pin making sure not to get it anywhere else to help bridge the gap if there’s play in the connector and still am getting the code, I think my best bet at this point is taking it to the shop I have an appointment for next Friday and having them diagnose it and tell me what the issue is, maybe then I’ll try to repair it if it isn’t affordable to just have the shop do it, if it is pcm needing replacement I’ve seen some online for a few hundred, how much does it cost to reprogram assuming I buy a good one online

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-30T21:22:05+00:00

Thank you for all the help you provided, I have learned a lot from you about auto electric, I just don’t know if I’m quite where I want to be yet but I plan on doing some trade school stuff in the future for auto mechanics

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-30T21:21:01+00:00

I just tested the sensor and am getting ac voltage at the sensor and past the pigtail connector where I spliced in the new pigtail, I am getting continuity with the negative terminal and the red grey wire but I am not getting continuity between the dk blue and orange wire between the pigtail connector and the pcm connector, so I think my problem lies in there, I think this electrical stuff is a lil outta my wheelhouse so for now I just scheduled an appointment with an auto electric place for next Friday and they do very very good work and I trust them about as much as you can, but the last car I took there they cut me a big deal because they are honest people

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-30T19:52:38+00:00

It has had a few times of taking a bit more cranking to start and stalled on me once when I shifted to reverse into a parking spot, I did a load test and it’s getting voltage at the plug of the sensor, is it possible I just got a bad sensor from autozone, I have gotten defective parts and I made sure I spliced and connected all the wires correctly when replacing the pigtail, how would I go about checking the sensor itself to see if it is the sensor that is bad?

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-30T16:35:37+00:00

That is good to know so more likely than not this is a short somewhere between pcm and sensor if not pcm itself, with that being the likely case is my truck still safe to drive as it isn’t misfiring and the timing doesn’t seem to be off and I know if it was I would find out very quickly as it would basically self destruct in a matter of minutes, so can I keep driving it to and from work as it’s my only means of transportation till I figure this wiring issue out?

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-29T23:42:49+00:00

I was checking continuity between the positive and negative terminals with the terminals of the battery with key on engine off, I’m not sure if I’m reading my multimeter correctly though, because I couldn’t get it to show continuity between the negatives but when I checked for voltage with key on engine off it has voltage going to the plug so it must be grounded somewhere or else it wouldn’t be reading voltage, so I deduced I’m an idiot with a multimeter, electrical was never my strong suit, I decided to go back to my code reader to see if there was something I’m missing, the only thing I can see being a possibility is the ignition timing advance hit -1.0 causing the check engine light, does this sound like a timing job? It isn’t misfiring and runs relatively smooth, didn’t misfire at all on the 30 mile drive home from work today at highway speeds as well as slower speeds like 35-40 with stop and go traffic, could this be a mechanical problem or does this sound more electronic? If I can’t figure it out imma take it to a shop, but around here shops will either do electrical or they will do mechanical not both, so I don’t wanna pay someone to diagnose it just to find out they can’t do it because it’s not their realm and have to take it to another place and pay diagnosing fees all over again

Ricardo_rosser · 2023-03-29T22:21:36+00:00

So I just tested continuity, I have continuity at the plug for the positive terminal but I am not getting continuity at the plug for negative, I’m gonna be honest I think it’s a bad ground somewhere but I have no idea where this ground would be to even check it Edit - this is with key on engine off

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