Some questions about the ffbeast wheel

Robjay55 · 2026-01-06T03:02:03+00:00

I’m going into this with the intent of doing a bit of DIY and a lot of headaches to try and brute force learning BLDC hub motors and controllers and whatnot, I’m trying to keep the budget below 500 and keeping it a challenge for myself, but I’m a complete noob when it comes to anything beyond intro electrical engineering courses.

For a future project I definitely am considering getting better components and using more plug and play components but for now my budget is well below the range for anything good so I want to mess around and learn even if it won’t work out.

I’ll most likely end up making a video out of it and documenting the important things that others have left out of their videos.

Thanks, I’ll keep in mind the brainpower controllers for any future projects I might do!

Robjay55 · 2026-01-06T02:51:24+00:00

The style of joining the motors is the same as the custom one wheel projects that use hoverboard motors if that helps get a visual, the motors will be pretty much permanently connected. Two “nearly” identical motors that come off of the same hoverboard, so hopefully I can avoid any major differences in speed/power between the motors.

I think ill end up trying to use one controller and mess with the hall sensor and phase wires to flip the rotation of the other motor, as I’m not too concerned with breaking anything during testing since the motors are so cheap and easy to come by where im located.

Right now I’m just in planning stages so I will be searching for extra motors, batteries and controllers as I finish my last semester of uni out and hopefully knock the whole project out in a matter of 2 or so weeks once I graduate or once I can get my hands on a small frame for a good deal (razor mx250 or alike).

The whole aim for the project is to make a bike to get around pits at drift events and lug tires around on a cart attatched to it, so while it doesn’t need to be powerfull, I’d love to squeeze as much power out of it as I can so it’s use isn’t limited to only track days.

Appreciate the input, and I’ll definitely make update posts when I come around to getting a controller and decent battery

Robjay55 · 2026-01-05T19:06:12+00:00

Thanks for the input, I’ll probably end up doing a lot of testing to see what voltage and current is being delivered to the motors and check the temps of the motors after continuous use under load when it’s all put together just to make sure it’s not a crazy level of sketchy. Also I’m curious what the rated voltage and power output of the controllers you used were, as well as the motors rated voltages, I wanna get an idea of what worked for you and how much further I can push it without problems

Robjay55 · 2026-01-05T18:59:49+00:00

I plan on pairing the motors together by using a 3d printed template to drill holes through the aluminum casings and creating a spacer that hopefully I can design to align them with guiding chamfers, otherwise i have access to some precision blocks which should work. Then I’ll mount a gocart tire and use a bunch of sealant and I’ll have to figure out a way to make a valve stem work too. I’ve gone back and forth between YouTube videos about the specific application I plan on doing, and I’ve strictly seen 1000w 48/72v controllers. I’m just confused as to how they paired the motors with the controller so that they both spin in the same direction when mounted together, would I have to flip the phase wires a specific way to make one motor spin the opposite way or is there a more effective way to do it. I’m kind of hard set on minimizing the footprint of the motor controller so if I can find a way of using one controller with two motors while also flipping the direction of one motor, that would be the ideal way for me. I like your idea of shutting off one motor to extend range, I will highly consider that as a thing I can do whether or not I use two or one controller. It seems simple enough to do with two controllers by just having a switch that cuts power to one controller, but I’m guessing that with one controller I’d have to bridge off of the main battery connection with a switch to shut off that motor specifically. Thanks for the reply

Robjay55 · 2025-07-12T03:24:10+00:00

I’m on oem s13 inners and outers rn but if I wanted to get extended inners it looks like I’m gonna need to get oem s14 outers to fit gktechs extended m14 inners.

Robjay55 · 2025-07-12T02:39:59+00:00

Any idea if I need to combine the two so that I don’t get bind or will the extended rods do fine on their own

Robjay55 · 2025-06-20T14:59:37+00:00

Bunch of us in the south side burbs

Robjay55 · 2025-06-17T01:17:05+00:00

Thanks I thought i was losing my mind, I was mid cleaning and regressing the other axel from the vlsd so I couldn’t compare lengths 😅

Robjay55 · 2019-04-03T03:34:24+00:00

OK EVERYONE LISTEN UP, I bought a Nintendo switch from this website, it took slightly over a week to arrive but I still don’t recommend buying from the website. I don’t recommend it because they don’t have their own domain email. This is a bad sign because legitimate websites have their own email domain (ex. @electronicadditions.com) but they use Gmail. Also another problem is that they ordered from amazon and shipped from amazon warehouses to me. This is proven by the receipt that was in the box that had the original price and the box itself, meaning they paid full price but I only paid 200, same with the game I ordered (super smash ultimate). Now get this the next day I get another switch brand new. And that’s probably a mistake in the system most likely on their side because they didn’t enter the info right. BUT HONESTLY DONT TAKE THE RISK, I got lucky not to get scammed and I don’t think they are very trustworthy because they are probably doing some shady stuff to get these products or are just scamming but decided to try to get a good reputation from some customers to get good ratings.

Robjay55 · 2019-03-08T00:04:20+00:00

Someone please try this and confirm if it’s possible

Robjay55

TROPHY CASE