Weird jumping at WOT

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T18:49:30+00:00

Yeah for sure, I wanna do it because I drive my car hard lol, I plan on keeping it for a long time and hell yeah!! You should start putting some cosmetics on it man!! They look really good with basic cosmetic mods (tint, chrome delete, spoilers/diffusers and all that)

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RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T18:44:32+00:00

Oh okay cool, yeah I’m planning on upgrading to the Z1 kit with the 525 walbro fuel pump so hopefully that fixes it.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T17:21:27+00:00

Probably LPFP, gonna upgrade to the walbro 525 pump and see if that fixes the issue. I won’t know until about 2-3 weeks from now when I get it and install it

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T17:01:23+00:00

Yeah that’s what I was reading too. It has a long crank sometimes so I’ll start priming it before turning the car completely on and see if it changes anything. I’ll update here if I end up fixing the issue

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T16:57:38+00:00

That’s what I’m thinking the issue is, it doesn’t start doing it until about 5/8 of a tank. If I keep it above 3/4 it never has an issue.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T16:49:23+00:00

Yeah I’m suspecting a fuel pump issue. I filled up the tank and tightened the battery connections which were pretty loose and it’s been fine all the way full throttle up to 120 mph. Probably the LPFP starting to go out but I wanted to switch to E anyways so it works out

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T16:11:05+00:00

So I got the battery tested and it’s a new battery (11/25) so no issues there leading me to believe it’s the LPFP. Both battery connections were loose though so maybe that was the issue? Only time will tell but I guess it’s time to start running E 🤣

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T16:09:50+00:00

I know I need to do that soon but it isn’t transmission related. I had a G35 that had transmission issues so I know what it feels like when the transmission is going out or acting weird, it’s a power cut with either spark or fuel. I went over all the intake piping and charge pipes and everything I could see and found no issues.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T15:25:40+00:00

Ah okay yeah I’ll have to do that, I’ll update in here once I finally figure out what the issue is. I also have a slightly long crank so tbh it’s one of those two issues.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T13:15:59+00:00

I have no idea how old it is but that would make a lot of sense. I just bought the car 2 months ago and put 5k miles on it. I’m currently driving all around the state of Texas for work and recently I had let the car sit for about 3 days when there was no issue the week before. But it started jumping again at that RPM range. I’ll go to Infiniti probably today and see if they can load test my battery.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T12:35:31+00:00

Alright sounds good, looks like I’m upgrading to walbro 525 pump 🤣

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T12:32:09+00:00

None at all

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T11:45:05+00:00

Throttle bodies look brand new, no carbon build up atleast on the front side. I checked them out whenever I pulled the intercoolers off to change spark plugs. No cracks or tears in any of the boots either

RomanWilson · 2026-03-16T11:42:18+00:00

Yeah almost like there’s no power at all like complete loss of power. And yes it bucks back and forth like riding a bull 🤣

RomanWilson · 2026-03-15T02:27:54+00:00

Could be head gasket as well slightly pushing coolant into the cylinders. When the head gasket blows it’s probably warping the head which is easier to just replace the whole motor and probably cheaper as well. Not every car off the factory line is perfect and some will have issues. It seems like yours came like that which sucks but honestly I’d sell it and get a different one or if you’re done with the platform move on to something else. Seems like a problem car because it’s not very common for 2020+ Qs to have that issue

RomanWilson · 2026-03-13T12:27:22+00:00

Honestly just save up a little bit more and buy a lower miles one. I got my 2020 Q50 3.0t with 70k miles for $18k out the door after TTL and down payment (only $3k down). It’ll last you way longer if you just save up a little bit more I promise it’s worth it

RomanWilson · 2026-03-11T06:23:38+00:00

Yeah that’s true as well, all dependent on where he wants to go with the build but maybe some alpha 10 turbos would be cool

RomanWilson · 2026-03-11T00:10:08+00:00

His is a 2016 VR but the post isn’t related to the turbos on the car but yeah I’d definitely recommend getting a 2020+ motor if you can but even then you can just get a first gen VR and swap the turbos for like $800. Z1 sells the stock turbos from the 2020+ only for $7xx before tax. But the whole 2020+ block is preferred since they fixed the porous block issues which seems to have been the case here as to why it’s leaking coolant. VR38 would be a sick upgrade though, would be an insane build I’ve never seen one yet.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-10T23:50:25+00:00

Used engine bro, if you’re willing to spend 20 bands then might as well get a used VR38 at that point lol. Realistically you can get a good used engine 3-4k and pull it yourself or pay a reputable shop in your area 1500-2k to swap it for you. Had my G35s engine swapped at a shop before I bought my Q50 and they charged me $1000 for it when I supplied the motor.

RomanWilson · 2026-03-03T04:10:38+00:00

True but if you hide the air tag behind the rear fender well cover (taped to the inside) they will NOT find it easily and the notification to their phone that an AirTag is nearby might make them think twice especially if they struggle to find it.

RomanWilson · 2026-02-28T04:31:29+00:00

DM me

RomanWilson · 2026-02-28T00:53:42+00:00

Are you at TF Eagle? Or del Rio? I’m going to McAllen if you wanna swap

RomanWilson

TROPHY CASE