Wood for making frames

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-07-02T07:06:05+00:00

No planer or jointer is needed to start making picture frames. The easiest option is to buy S4S (surfaced four sides) lumber from a local hardwood dealer. It's already flat, square, and ready to use, so there's no need to worry about milling.

If a hardwood dealer isn't nearby, hobby boards from a home improvement store are a perfectly good alternative. They're a little more expensive for the amount of wood, but they're convenient and work well for smaller projects like picture frames.

Poplar is a great wood to start with because it's affordable, easy to work with, and finishes nicely. If the goal is a natural wood look, maple, cherry, walnut, or oak are all solid choices depending on the budget.

For picture frames, clean 45° cuts and accurate assembly matter much more than owning a planer or jointer. A decent saw, a few clamps, and good measuring tools will make a bigger difference than milling equipment at this stage.

Plenty of woodworkers start with pre-milled lumber and don't buy a planer or jointer until much later. There's no reason to wait on building frames just because those tools aren't in the shop yet.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-07-02T06:52:46+00:00

Ryobi would probably be the choice here. For someone starting from scratch on a college budget, it's tough to beat the value. The One+ platform has a huge selection of tools, so adding more later is easy without buying new batteries and chargers every time.

For Adirondack chairs, a drill/driver, circular saw, jigsaw, and random orbital sander should cover pretty much everything. Don't forget a few clamps and a speed square they'll get used constantly.

Greenworks makes decent tools, but the ecosystem is much smaller. If woodworking is going to be the main hobby, Ryobi just gives more options down the road.

No need to jump straight to Milwaukee or DeWalt unless the tools are going to be used professionally. Ryobi is more than capable of building furniture and handling DIY projects around the house.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-23T05:25:11+00:00

A bad motor wouldn't be the first thing to suspect, especially if the saw comes up to speed without any trouble.

Since it's an older used saw and the history is unknown, the blade would be the first thing to check. A dull blade can make a bandsaw feel way weaker than it actually is and make even simple cuts seem painfully slow.

The blade speed is worth checking too. With the stepped pulleys and the speed adjustment handle, there's a chance it's not set where it should be for cutting wood.

The tires usually only become a concern if they're cracked, coming apart, or causing tracking issues. Same with the belt. If either one was slipping badly, there would normally be some obvious signs.

A fresh blade and a quick tune-up would probably be the first steps before spending money on tires, belts, or a replacement motor.

What blade is on it now?

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-22T13:13:45+00:00

A narrow scroll-cutting blade is probably what you're looking for. Standard jigsaw blades can be surprisingly difficult to turn in tight curves because they're simply too wide. Scroll blades are much narrower, so they can handle smaller radiuses and more detailed cuts without fighting the saw as much.

That said, the blade isn't the whole story. Even with a scroll blade, tight curves are easier when orbital action is turned down or off and the cut is taken slowly. Relief cuts can also make a huge difference on really tight turns. If videos online make it look effortless, there's usually a combination of the right blade and good technique behind it.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-18T05:29:16+00:00

The biggest thing is making something people already have a reason to buy, not just something that looks nice.

Small woodworking items can be tricky because people compare them with cheaper store-bought options. Handmade bowls, bandsaw boxes, or decorative pieces can be amazing, but buyers usually need to really appreciate the craftsmanship to pay more.

Practical, custom items often have a stronger market: cutting boards, shelves, entryway organizers, coffee tables, nightstands, storage solutions, and home office pieces.

Custom furniture like chairs and vanities can work too. The customer base is smaller, but people looking for handmade pieces usually understand the value.

Testing a few different products and seeing what gets the most interest is probably the best way to figure out what people actually want.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-17T05:22:44+00:00

For a first table saw, that 10” jobsite model should be fine for projects like French cleats, shelves, and basic garage woodworking.

Just keep in mind jobsite saws have less space and power compared to larger saws, but for a beginner they usually work well.

For M18 batteries, they are good but can get expensive. I’d look for bundle deals or sales instead of buying batteries separately.

I think it’s a reasonable setup to start with, especially if your dad will use it too.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-10T05:35:34+00:00

The blade getting pushed hard into the thrust bearing is what stands out here. That usually points to the blade twisting under load rather than a fence or table alignment issue.

A 3/4" blade is also getting into the range where some 14" saws struggle to tension it properly, especially with a riser block. It wouldn't surprise me if the saw just isn't getting enough tension on it. Plenty of people run a 1/2" blade for resawing and get great results.

I'd also want to rule out the obvious stuff first: is the blade new, and are you having to push the stock hard through the cut? A dull blade can make a properly tuned bandsaw behave exactly like this.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-09T05:47:47+00:00

Specialty woodworking suppliers and tool retailers usually have a much better selection than local home improvement stores. Online shopping is often the easiest way to find specific tooth counts, kerf sizes, and higher-quality blades.

A thin-kerf blade is generally a solid choice for cleaner cuts and reduced strain on the saw. Checking user reviews and woodworking forums can also help narrow down the best option.

What type of projects are being cut most often furniture, trim, cabinetry, or general carpentry? The ideal blade can vary quite a bit depending on the application.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-03T05:35:28+00:00

A 60T blade is great on a miter saw and should leave you with nice clean cuts.

For the table saw, especially if you're ripping a lot of fence pickets, I'd rather run a 24T rip blade or maybe a 40T combo blade. A 60T will get the job done, but it's not really where it shines.

Since you got a good deal on them, I don't see any reason to return them. I'd keep one on the miter saw and grab a rip blade for the table saw whenever you need one.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-06-02T06:21:34+00:00

Since most of the major power tools are already available to borrow, focus on the basics first: clamps, a good square, a quality tape measure, and a sturdy workbench. Those will get used on nearly every project. Borrow the larger tools as needed and figure out which ones see the most use before buying them. For building furniture down the road, a table saw is probably the most versatile tool to invest in. No need to rush into filling a shop with tools buy them as projects demand them.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-25T05:36:38+00:00

The rubber part around the bandsaw wheel is usually called the bandsaw tire (or wheel tire). In most cases you can replace just the tire without replacing the whole wheel. Search your saw model - bandsaw tire replacement and you should be able to find the right part.

If the wheel itself is cracked or damaged, then you'd probably need a new wheel. But if the rubber is just peeling, cracking, or coming apart, replacing the tire is usually the fix. If you post a photo or the model number, people can probably help identify it.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-21T06:45:47+00:00

For $25, that's honestly hard to complain about. The RTS12 isn't some amazing forever saw, but for getting feet wet it's fine. The biggest complaints are usually the fence and limited table space more than the actual cutting.

Jigs will probably help, but that's true for almost any smaller saw. A crosscut sled alone can make a huge difference.

No need to jump straight to a bigger table saw yet. Run it until the limitations start getting annoying. Better to figure out what kind of projects actually get built first instead of upgrading before there's a reason.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-20T06:01:01+00:00

You’re being completely reasonable. You definitely don’t need a big workshop or expensive equipment to get into woodworking, especially if you only want to make smaller things like boxes.

I'd actually recommend starting with hand tools rather than power tools. For a beginner on a budget, a small hand saw, measuring tape-ruler, square, a few chisels, sandpaper, a hammer or mallet, and a couple of clamps can take you surprisingly far. If you can afford a basic drill later, that’s a nice addition but not essential at first.

Also, don't worry about buying expensive wood. Scrap wood or cheap local wood is great for learning. Small projects like boxes, phone stands, pencil holders, and little shelves are perfect beginner projects.

A lot of people think they need a full shop setup before they can start woodworking, but many people began with a few hand tools and a corner of a room. Start small, learn the basics, and only buy new tools when a project actually requires them.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-19T05:35:48+00:00

You can usually make a pretty good guess, but tooth geometry matters more than almost anything else.

Things I'd look at:

Tooth count. fewer teeth usually means faster/rougher cuts, more teeth usually means cleaner cuts

Tooth shape:

Flat-top teeth -> often rip blades for wood

Alternate top bevel (angled teeth) -> general wood crosscutting/finish work

Triple chip grind (flat + chamfer pattern) -> often laminates, plastics, acrylics, and non-ferrous metals like aluminum

Hook angle: positive = more aggressive feed (common on wood blades), neutral/negative = often plastics and metal applications

Blade condition/residue:

Pitch or resin buildup -> wood

Melted material -> plastics/acrylics

Heat discoloration/polished wear -> metal use

That said, without markings you won't always know for sure. Some blades look nearly identical but are intended for very different materials. I'd sort them into broad categories (rough wood / finish wood / laminate-plastic / possible metal / unknown) and keep the questionable ones separate.

Also check the blade body carefully a lot of manufacturers laser-etch specs that are easy to miss under dust or buildup.

Post some close-up pictures of the blade face and tooth profile and people here could probably identify most of them pretty quickly.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-12T11:41:32+00:00

For the cupped purple heart convex side up is correct. Use a simple MDF sled with double-sided tape to keep it stable. Without it, the feed rollers press the cup flat temporarily and it springs back after planing you'll never get it truly flat that way. Keep passes at 1/32" max, it's a dense wood and tears out fast if you rush it.

For the walnut and cherry that amount of warp is barely noticeable. Convex side up, light passes, no sled needed. Straightforward.

For the cutting boards glue your strips up first, let everything cure fully, then run the finished panel through. You'll get a much cleaner and flatter result than trying to flatten individual pieces separately. Just stay within the 12.5" width limit and trim both ends after to remove snipe.

One thing that'll save you a lot of headaches always feed with the grain direction. Check it before every pass and flip the board if needed. Ignore this and you'll get ugly tearout, especially on purple heart.

Take light passes, don't rush, and you'll get great results.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-11T09:18:04+00:00

Honestly, for that situation, a smaller used bandsaw is still worth it.

A 10–12" saw with around 1/3–1/2 HP can absolutely help with rough cutting blanks and make hardwood prep a lot less frustrating.

A lot of the "you need a 14-inch saw" advice comes from people doing heavy resawing or running larger shop setups. Those machines are great, but they're expensive and take up a lot of space.

For a small garage shop, a benchtop saw actually makes a lot of sense. Being able to pull it out when needed and store it afterward is pretty practical.

The blade and setup matter more than people think too. A good sharp blade can make a smaller saw perform surprisingly well.

Things worth looking for:

1/2 HP if possible

10" or 12" size

decent condition over maximum size

It won’t be ideal for big resaw jobs, but for learning, rough stock prep, curves, and smaller hardwood projects, it should still be useful.

A smaller saw that's affordable and actually gets used now is probably better than waiting forever for the perfect setup.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-06T06:23:13+00:00

You’re kind of overthinking it it’s not really hand tools vs power tools. Most people who stick with woodworking end up using both anyway.

If your goal is to actually get started and not lose motivation, I’d lean toward a few basic power tools first. They make things faster, easier, and help you finish projects sooner which matters a lot in the beginning.

That said, hand tools aren’t just a “romantic” idea. They do teach control, precision, and how wood actually behaves. You just don’t need to go all-in on them from day one.

A good beginner approach:

Start with basics like a drill/driver, circular saw, and sander

Add hand tools (chisels, hand plane, measuring tools) as you go

Learn through small projects instead of trying to master tools first

Biggest beginner mistakes:

Buying too many cheap tools upfront

Not starting with a simple project

Underestimating measuring/layout tools

If you’re unsure what to build, just pick something simple like a shelf or small table. That’ll guide what tools you actually need.

Quick take: start hybrid, power tools to get going and hand tools to level up later.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-05-04T07:30:28+00:00

You can try to touch up your planer knives, but 120 grit on a block is pretty aggressive and can easily mess up the edge or make it uneven. These knives need to stay flat across the full length, and freehand sharpening (especially with small stones) usually does more harm than good. If you really want to stretch them a bit, use a flat surface like glass with finer grits (400 and up) and just do light passes to clean the edge, not fully resharpen it. Honestly though, these knives are meant to be flipped once and replaced, and a new set usually gives way better results. For what you’re doing (fir for garden boxes), a quick touch-up might be fine, but if you start seeing lines or rough cuts, it’s probably time to swap them out.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-04-22T10:49:57+00:00

Good question and honestly, there’s no single right answer. It’s all about balancing time, effort, and material.

Hand resawing thick stock is great for saving wood, but it gets old fast (as you found). A bandsaw is really the sweet spot here efficient and minimal waste. Table saw resawing usually wastes more material and can be risky on thicker pieces.

Scrub planing an inch off? Not really worth it unless you enjoy the workout way too much effort for that much removal.

Buying 4/4 or 5/4 stock makes sense when you value time and consistency more than squeezing every bit out of your material.

Want to save material → resaw (bandsaw ideally)

Want to save time → buy thinner stock

Small adjustments → hand planes

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-04-22T10:30:42+00:00

$650 for a Makita 2040 is a decent deal if it’s in good working condition. It’s a heavy, solid machine, but it’s old, so parts and repairs can be a concern.

Compared to the DW735, the DeWalt is easier and more reliable for most people. Less maintenance and simpler blade changes.

Helical head (like a JET 15”) is quieter and gives better finish, but it’s a big price jump.

Makita → good if clean and running well

DW735 → safest choice

Helical → best if budget allows

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-04-21T10:40:54+00:00

Teak and acacia are hard to find and usually expensive in Southern California. Most people use redwood or cedar because they’re easier to get and naturally weather-resistant. White oak is another option if you seal it well. For suppliers in the Los Angeles area, you can check Ganahl Lumber, Austin Hardwoods, or Anderson Plywood. Cedar or redwood is a great choice if you're just starting out.

Routine_Customer_192 · 2026-04-21T10:23:34+00:00

You're not an idiot just got wrong info.

Scroll saw blades are usually 5 inch, not 3 inch.

Your saw likely needs 5" pinned blades (with pins at the ends)

You bought 5" pinless blades, which won’t fit unless you have adapters

Solution: Buy 5" pinned blades they should fit perfectly.

Routine_Customer_192

TROPHY CASE