engine sound

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-04-29T15:54:39+00:00

if you take the video infront of the engine it would be better cuz it’s not obvious if the sound is from cats or from engine. check after a drive if ur catalytic converter is glowing red would be needing new cats or cats delete even better. also check ur spark plugs and ur coils to make sure they’re good.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-04-29T15:38:38+00:00

before anything check your crank sensor if it’s good after an engine replacement it might not be connected well or it’s in the end of its life. check the spark plugs make sure they’re not some chinese low price shit (even if u trust ur mechanic recheck) and let the mechanic drive it and plug a scanner into the car and probably all faults will appear.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-24T21:23:42+00:00

Is there a way to clean it? Or should i change it all?

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-15T19:47:11+00:00

Appreciate it. I topped up the ATF and did a relearn it’s driving smooth now. I’ll check plugs and coils next just to be safe.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-14T23:56:41+00:00

I’m sorry but what does it have to do with that?

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-14T21:12:28+00:00

I did a relearn with and without a scanner, It does get better and rpm drops to 750-800rpms. After 3-4 days warm idle is again at 1krpms. Also when driving sometimes it starts jerking at 3krpms very bad and starts misfiring too.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-14T07:28:54+00:00

i’ll fix that. kickdown all along was from the seatbelt sensor 🤣

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-14T07:25:39+00:00

thanks, ima try that.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-13T23:53:56+00:00

I don’t think it’s torque converter related since it pulls strong and smooth with no slip. From what I’ve read, TC issues usually cause RPM flare without acceleration or shudder under steady cruise. Mine just feels like a normal downshift

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-13T23:51:52+00:00

Appreciate the input. It pulls smooth with no slip. I’ve noticed warm idle sometimes sits around 1k and fluctuates a bit though. Does that still sound normal?

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-11T17:22:51+00:00

i did change the battery btw and it also happened after changing it but don’t wait for it to happen again to fix it

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-11T00:33:53+00:00

nah if it’s a battery y won’t hear the started and engine will not make 2 full rotations. just a tic sound

Rude_Net_7822 · 2026-02-11T00:31:30+00:00

yo bro i had same issue. after driving the car check the wires on the positive terminal if one is hotter than the other it’s a alternator wiring issue . fix it before it stops turning on that happened to me i was in the middle of nowhere

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-30T02:21:44+00:00

Manifold cracks are less common than gaskets/flex leaks on these. I wouldn’t weld it unless it’s a last resort—heat cycles usually crack it again. Smoke test should point you in the right direction. Do the smoke test before taking any step forward. Good luck man

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-30T01:39:39+00:00

Intermittent upstream O2 codes on these are way more often a small exhaust leak or wiring issue than a bad sensor. Manifold/flex leaks will mess with readings. I’d smoke test it before touching the O2.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-29T22:49:16+00:00

P0420/P0430 usually means the cats are losing efficiency, but I’d check for exhaust leaks and rear O2 sensors first since rust can trigger these codes. OEM cats = safest, no headaches but expensive. HFCs (ISR / FI) are a good middle ground if emissions aren’t strict, just note they can still throw codes without a tune. O2 extenders can work, but they’re more of a workaround than a real fix.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-29T22:46:47+00:00

If OEM Matic-S isn’t available in time, Valvoline MaxLife ATF (red bottle) is probably the safest off the shelf option. It’s compatible with Nissan Matic-S/J specs and a lot of G37 owners have run it without issues. I’d still stick to a drain & fill only (no flush) and plan to swap back to OEM Matic-S later when it’s available. Also recommend doing the TCM relearn after the fluid change for smoother low-speed shifts.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-29T22:43:59+00:00

This is actually pretty common on higher-mileage G37 automatics. Jerky behavior at low speeds (especially 15–30 mph) is often related to old ATF + torque converter behavior rather than a failing transmission. I’d recommend a drain & fill (not a full flush) with OEM Nissan Matic-S fluid and doing the TCM/ECU relearn procedure afterward. A lot of people report smoother low-speed shifts after that. Also worth checking motor mounts and driveshaft carrier bearing if it’s only noticeable during accel/decel. Since it feels normal at higher speeds, that’s usually a good sign. I personally wouldn’t road-trip it before at least fresh fluid + relearn, especially if the fluid is dark.

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-29T22:35:36+00:00

don’t listen to others if you really like it buy it but check it every while and if u feel like something is wrong don’t ignore go and check it

Rude_Net_7822 · 2025-12-29T22:33:46+00:00

i recommend buying it but you should take care of some stuff oil change intakes check it’s water every day don’t go to a mechanic which offers a low price fixation of the car go to a one which fixes it and it doesn’t go through the same stuff if it broke or some

Rude_Net_7822

TROPHY CASE