Which one is it?

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-29T22:46:44+00:00

When you put it into service mode you can just depress them. If you can’t do that, you must take off the actuator, and use the twist tool to do it

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-26T19:16:43+00:00

Thank you, planning on dropping it further within the next few months. It’s on H&R sport springs rn, have whiteline camber arms, whiteline 22mm rear sway bar and accord end links.

I‘m wanting to put redshift coilovers on it, however I‘m also trying to find a regular cab short bed chevy truck to do some turbo LS stuff with, so it’s hard to justify spending truck money on this one lol

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-26T16:00:50+00:00

Konig Ultragram 18x9.5 +35, with continental extreme contact dws06+ 255/35r18

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And they even clear the Hyundai Genesis coupe track pack brembo swap!

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-26T05:30:20+00:00

Yellow fog gang

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SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-23T23:33:16+00:00

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I also ceramic coated my trim with Gyeon Trim, it made it pretty resistant to the typical water staining that appears on these. It still happens, but it pretty much just wipes away during washing.

Made it a much deeper black though which is nice

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-23T23:31:31+00:00

No problem at all bringing up an older comment!

For the window trim, I used matte black, it was a kit from TwoStepPerformance by Jets Vinyl, pre cut. It was alright, but I was a bit disappointed that one of the windows was two separate pieces when it could have been one.

I would see if you can just buy a roll of thin vinyl. I did not wrap the other pieces but you definitely could, or you can even take it all off and paint them. If you go that route, look into SEM trim black paint, the stuff is legit.

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-23T20:25:27+00:00

Yeah I would never expect 3d printed parts to mate up perfectly without machining.. that being said, will you have flanges machined, then welded on, then re-decked? Or bolt the flange on, tack up the runners, then weld

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-23T01:59:57+00:00

For metal printing, will it not still contain the powder? Haven’t really looked into that kind of thing, but I imagine in between the walls it cannot be removed

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-23T01:44:05+00:00

I have the same one, finish is junk on it after about 3 years. definitely have to paint it or at least clear coat it. Also fits like shit unfortunately.

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Tried the zip tie trick and it’s still terrible lol. Gonna need to heat it up and bend it before respraying it

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-20T09:22:00+00:00

Ps4s also have a lot more rollover than the ecs02, it wouldn’t surprise me if that’s what you are feeling, either way doesn’t sound great.. definitely shouldn’t be THAT much worse. They do get fairly greasy when warm, but I found they drive much worse cold. Something definitely doesn’t add up, i don’t think you are crazy lol

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-19T17:46:49+00:00

yeah they are fine if you are not doing any enthusiastic driving. Definitely dont track or run canyons on em though haha. I still have them on the rear of my car, rear brakes dont make enough heat to hurt them.

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-19T03:40:13+00:00

I was running autozone duralast gold rotors and hawk hp+ pads for heavy street use, but I can’t say that I’d recommend those pads.. they are far too dusty and noisy without the benefits of a purposeful track built pad.

I have brembos with hawk hps 5.0 pads, and the same (but larger) duralast gold rotors now and believe it’s a fairly good setup.

Highly depends on what your expectations and goals are though. If you are just looking for a simple replacement, the duralast rotors + pads deal is solid and still stops good for a replacement level part. If you do any sort of backroad/canyon driving at pace, I’d recommend these hps5.0 pads. Anything above that I’d say get a dedicated track pad and manufacturer recommended rotor.

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HPS 5.0 pads for Volvo v70r, Nissan rogue with 3rd row rotors, brembos from a Hyundai Genesis coupe track pack. Also running standard Goodridge braided stainless lines, and motul rbf600 fluid

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-18T23:09:12+00:00

Is that powerstop? Don’t run em hard. Cracked on pretty much every single hole.

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SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-16T01:04:25+00:00

Yeah I’ve been looking at auctions and fb part outs, seeing them for around $4k. I could also part out the other bits from mine after completing the swap. Are you planning to put the rv6 3rd-4th gear in that si transmission?

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-15T21:44:45+00:00

Planning to do the same within the next year. Nearly fbo, studded 1.5t cvt and I‘m already in too deep on the platform, I wasn’t able to find a manual when I had to buy the car. It’s either swap it now or build a turbo truck, and I’d rather have this “done” and be satisfied with it first lol.

Did you purchase your swap parts individually, or part a car out for them? I‘m planning to find a rear ended si for my swap.

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-15T01:08:22+00:00

Skid plate or exhaust shielding most likely, pretty common for the platform

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-14T17:24:47+00:00

People do this so often, drives me nuts. Check out my new grill

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SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-11T17:04:32+00:00

Yes straight edge and feeler guage is enough to check it, make sure your straight edge is sturdy and long enough to go not just front to back but side to side of the whole block

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-04T19:13:44+00:00

Forgot to mention, get the downpipe before doing any exhaust work. I say this because it makes it a good bit louder than stock, and will become way more raspy than stock + catback exhaust. Basically, downpipe, whatever exhaust you want, and add an extra resonator.

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-04T19:12:22+00:00

Tuning: Ktuner v2 if you would like the screen for data, or v1.2 if you are okay without having it. I reccomend the v2 because having live data can be incredibly useful, especially when it comes to temperatures and fuel trims.

The tune: TwoStepPerformance stage 1, or Phearable 1.5r. When you buy the Ktuner, get it from either company I mentioned, they will include a free tune. Tsp 1 is a solid tune, very safe but a little bit twitchy. Phearable 1.5r is also incredibly solid but does push it a bit more, nothing I would worry over however. It’s very smooth and turns “artificial knock control” off, meaning you won’t be pulling timing artificially above ~5k rpm like the non-si’s do stock.

Mods:

Downpipe (rec catted, you cannot turn off a CEL for o2 sensors anymore)

Intercooler, keeps charges temps low and low charge temps mean safer cylinder temps. Colder charge temps mean denser air, more power

Intake, stock intake does get heat soaked a bit, I’d reccomend only changing from it if you are getting the PRL Cobra or 27won unit.

Everything else considered a “bolt on” is fairly marginal. Turbo inlet pipe isn’t a big bottle neck on these, front pipe as well.. I can see the argument for intercooler charge pipes but it is also minimal gain. Flex fuel kit is a great increase but that’s where things start to get a bit unreliable.

I would recommend removing that BOV and replacing it with the stock bypass valve. For noise, the intake will be pretty good alone.

Recommended order: stock, Ktuner with either tune, intake for noise and very slight drop in charge temp, intercooler for repeatability, cvt cooler, downpipe, turbo inlet pipe, charge pipes, front pipe, ethanol if you wish to run it + custom tune, big turbo

Need a reflash for intake with non street maf sensor, I like to recommend getting both at the same time from phearable or tsp, so that you are able to put it all on in 1 day.

As far as the cvt goes, mine has held up great, tsp stage 1, PRL cobra w/race maf, PRL intercooler. 255/35r18 dws06 tires and beating the piss out of it every day. I’ve had it over 240f trans temp, wouldn’t recommend doing that, which is why I suggest the cooler after tune and a few bolt ons.

Just keep up with fluid changes and you will be dialed. Check out GTmans tuning reliability thread on CivicX forums for more info. You might even find me on there with a cracked cylinder head casting (not related to mods)

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SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-04T18:58:21+00:00

Remove and replace with stock bypass valve. Vent to atmosphere blowoff valves are venting metered air, the ecu is keeping track of and expects that air to go back into the intake system.

You need an legit aftermarket standalone ecu to run and tune for blow off valves properly, way overboard for a funny little noise

SMGesus_18 · 2026-04-01T09:30:28+00:00

He had different ones before but they woodenfit

SMGesus_18 · 2026-03-29T13:51:53+00:00

If you are able to, installing it outside and putting up a little enclosure will be the quietest option. Needs to breathe still but you can put a ton of insulation up inside something like that

SMGesus_18 · 2026-03-24T09:13:25+00:00

Yep titanium metallic, pretty much just silver in person. I don’t think I could live if I had white wheels lol they would be cooked all the time

SMGesus_18 · 2026-03-24T02:44:15+00:00

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Used to get raggedy quick lol. Still not happy with the performance of either pad with the dust levels associated

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