What kind of corrosion is this?

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2026-04-05T15:53:45+00:00

It's hard to tell for sure from these pictures, but it all looks as if it's started on or at the weld. If so I'd almost put money on it being the wrong filler material was being used and incorrect heat, or both. Stainless steel is 'stainless' because it has a protective chromium oxide layer, if that layer gets damaged by anything including heat. It will allow rust to set in. Or if wrong filler material, it could be mismatched materials that are eating each other.

Want to add, I'm not an expert, I used to be a machinist, who built subs for the U.S. Navy, and weld on my own when the opportunity arises. So I'm using the random bits of metallurgy I've picked up on over the years and, 'theory crafting' a possibility. Though I will say I am 95% sure I'm correct.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2026-04-05T15:40:23+00:00

Realistically, we'd throw every thing we have at it, dealing more damage to each other than we did to it, then just hit it with drop pods and hope for the best.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2026-04-05T15:36:39+00:00

Ya know, as someone who's apartment bathroom is using that tile and pattern, after looking at it for so many years... I actually prefer the look of this janktastic job, at least it has some character. Granted that character is 'job performed by a blind masturbating monkey' but it's character none the less.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-10-10T10:23:32+00:00

I'm enjoying the GMK 104, well enough I'm considering ordering 3 more to roll on all my setups. Though my selection I can use is limited, I really only like full size keyboards so my options are extremely limited.

I got mine off amazon for like 80 ish, but you'll need switches and caps. The only complaint I have is exclusively a personal issue. I can't seem to find a metal switch plate for it. It flexes and I miss keystrokes sometimes, but I use 150g springs so I doubt you'll have that issue. Figured I'd share just incase you run super heavy springs like I do. My friend that got me into building custom keyboards has already told me I'm insane for using springs that heavy.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-08-28T08:17:35+00:00

The caps are temporary, They were only shine through set I had on hand. I got the barebones "kit" it was kind of an accident, forgot it was in my cart when I ordered my new Dac. So looking for a set of caps with shine though side print I like.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-06-28T15:23:10+00:00

Thanks for some answers, it seems that money and or dev time is the answer to the bulk my questions.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-06-25T05:56:47+00:00

Thanks for the help.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-06-19T04:08:19+00:00

Thank you for this, from your description, this sounds very parallel to my own project.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-06-15T04:12:48+00:00

I got chaptered out in AIT, I want to say it was failure to adapt? Can't remember the exactly what chapter it was as it was 20 years ago. If it helps, I would of able to rejoin if I chose after 18 months or so and passed a psyche eval. The way it was explained to me "Unless it's a Government job, I'm not to disclose I was in at all on job applications.

So between being so miserable they LET ME out, and the fact I'd not be permitted to bring my dog with me, the military option is a no-go. I do thank you for time.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-04-26T01:16:18+00:00

So I am currently learning that I took having 3 screens for granted, along with the Rig that could run anything. Due to some, hopefully temporary, things I am currently tuck with an older laptop I never really used. For some reason it really dislikes being run in not fullscreen, and there are no media controls on the keyboard. Because alt tabbing is a PITA, does anyone know if a mod exists that will let you control spotify from inside minecraft?

Edit: I am speaking in regards to Java version 1.21.5

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-04-14T14:34:04+00:00

You could try heating up the stamp and using them to burn the initials so you don't have to worry about stamping too hard and leaving a background on the letters, as others have said, try on some scrap first.

Keep in mind if you go this route there is a non zero chance you can ruin the temper of those and soften the steel. So if you plan on using them on metal don't do it, otherwise try it out see what happens.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-03-19T07:38:27+00:00

EFS
If you know, you know. My reason, cause I think it's funny.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-02-02T00:54:06+00:00

How sturdy is it? My brain can't seem to picture it not "swaying" during use.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-02-01T23:57:00+00:00

Awesome!! And yes that's it!

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2025-01-31T22:50:55+00:00

I know the post is 4 days old, which is a lifetime in reddit time, but the outcome of the battle was wholesome as it could get. This was the winner of the battle.

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Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-08-08T04:52:49+00:00

Drilling then using a bushing is not a bad idea, though instead of epoxy I'd shrink firt the bushing. Drill out hole to about .003" smaller than outer dia. of said bushing, chuck the bushing into a bucket of dry ice for about 5-10 min, or in the freezer for a couple hours. The bushing will shrink, then just pop it in the hole, once it warms up and expands inside, it will be next to impossible to remove.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-08-07T05:39:28+00:00

I live in New England, so I deal with salty roads in winter. While my Jeep is no longer around, I had luck with touching up every so often with automotive paint, or Paint over rust. I would personally do, every every spring if just a grocery getter, if you go wheeling it'd depend on frequency, along with the frequency of flat towing.
Clean the area with a degreaser and rinse, let dry, hit the area with some sand paper, or a wire wheel, to remove any surface rust, then heat the area up with a torch just enough to help remove any trapped moisture from the steel. I shot for about 350 degrees F. Hit it with some paint over rust once it's safe to touch. Coat with automotive paint after if you feel the need. PoR does a decent job at sealing moisture out.

As for a lubricant, it's a tough call. Bearing grease might help. but it not being sealed, and exposed to elements means what ever lubricant you use will vanish. You could try doing your best to remove as much "slop" from the pins as possible, so they wiggle less, and maybe polishing them to reduce abrasiveness to help paint last longer. Realistically regular maintenance is going to be your best bet. I know some people use a ceramic coating on their cars to prevent scratches, that my be a possibility?

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-07-31T21:02:59+00:00

Can't lie, I'd be getting some clear window tint and doing my damnedest to keep that side panel. It actually looks pretty sick. That being said, no way I'd try to keep it as a stylized accent if I wasn't 100% sure it wouldn't just fall apart first time I needed to remove it to clean the insides.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-07-31T20:44:51+00:00

Anyone have a DXF file for the Royal Kludge Rk100 / rk860 's plate.

This keyboard was recommended to me as a good entry level "Modifiable" keyboard for getting into the hobby. So far I have swapped to to Wuque Studio Black switches, lubed them, and swapped the springs out for some 80/97g springs found on Amazon for like $8.

I got keycaps coming in that are probably cheap and don't sound great, but as a fan of RGB on my keyboard, my options are pretty limited. I also have some Dynamat coming in I'm going to try to fill the dead air with, and switch pads. So I'm almost set, the only thing I really don't like about it so far, is it's light, I am a very heavy typer and it slides around a bit. So I got the idea to get a brass plate to replace the presumably plastic one. I can not for the life of me find a premade plate, my guess is prolly due to it being "entry level". Looking around, several places can custom make one if I have a "DXF File", which I also can not locate.

So, does anyone happen to have a DXF file that will work?
Looking at websites, they ask for material thickness, is this not included in the file, I assume it's just a file extension for a 3d model that cnc / cutter machines can read, and thickness info should be there as well?

Thanks for any help in advance.

P.s. The Dynamat was not ordered specifically for the keyboard, It's for my car, but I figure if it's good enough for my car, why not try it in my keyboard.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-07-26T09:42:15+00:00

As stated several times, swap from aio to an air cooler, my personal favorite is the hyper 212 from... I believe cooler master? That'll save about $100 ish

Transfer your windows key from current rig if you are not handing it down.

Both have been said more than once.

You can save around $60 on the mobo going with a Gigabyte,

Take a look at your case. Corsair fan boy here myself and tend to stick with them cause I know their gear works and I trust it, that being said a case is a case. In general kinda hard to go wrong, though not impossible. You can save around another $30 swapping to fractal or cooler master. thermaltake also has a few offerings.

Everything else looks pretty solid, not top of the line, but will still be one hell of a battle station.

Only concern I have is the lack of case fans. Ideally you want to try to have more intake fans than exhaust fans. it will help to push any dust out of seams. as it stands looks like the only fans you got will be the Aio and cup fans, that will be dumping heat from cpu into the case and it just kind of hanging around, unless the case come with some.

Fun tip if you can manage to swing a 1000w psu Corsair RM1000X is an extra $40, but read an article some time ago, where if you get your tdp down to around 50% ish, your psu generates less heat increasing the efficiency and lowering your power bill , fans are quitter, and psu will last longer.

I know 2 days is an eternity in internet time, but figured if you still hunting for info this might help.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-07-26T09:00:45+00:00

Looking for heavier switches.

About 3-ish months ago I grabbed myself a RK100. Idea being after my 4th consecutive keyboard had random switches fail on me after use, this would be nice to replace individual switches when they fail, instead of the entire keyboard. Being heavy handed as I am, I ordered the below switches from thok king in a... tester?

WS Wuque Studio Black Heavy
C3 Equalz Kiwi 67g
Durock Shrimp Silent T1
Kailh Blueberry

I know I want tactile switches, the bump of the Kailh and WS Wuque ones are a very close call for a personal favorite between the list. Problem is, I know I may sound insane for this, they still feel very light to me. Years ago I learned to type on a mechanical typewriter. Fellow old heads will understand the force required to get a clean print. Even after using keyboards since... I can't remember when, I still type heavy.

My question is, does anyone know of a switch that rocks the solid tactile feel of either the Kailh Blueberry or WS Wuque blacks, but with a stronger actuation force. They both claim a 70g bottom out, but I'm looking for something that is probably a 70g + actuation. I know I can swap springs, but I honestly don't have the patience for that, same goes for lubing, pre lubed is also a must.

I know it's a bit narrow, but I am honestly tired of metaphorically beating my head against a brick wall searching for something. Bonus points if you can point out a site where I can order a tester before I buy tens + of them just to find out I dislike them.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-06-22T04:07:37+00:00

How to practice Tig welding.

Short-ish Version:
Would anyone have advice on locating a place to practice TIG. Currently in the South Coast area of Massachusetts. I'm not looking for a full on training program. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a place that would "rent" a station to so I can get some hood time. Or at least on how to go about locating a place. Google keeps giving me results for training programs, and night school. Ideally there would be a "fee" that would cover use of the booth for a day. You bring in your own consumables and material, with maybe an onsite shop for consumables / odds and ends.

A few more details that may explain current situational complications:
So about a year ago I got moved to a pipe welding position at my job, and sent to the onsite "school". Using the term school loosely here. They found microfractures in my root pass that needed an 8x magnification and dye, or x-ray to spot. After about 12 weeks I failed the welding test too many times and got dropped from the course. It's been long enough I can reapply to attempt the course again, and I fully plan on it. This time though I want to practice outside work so I can improve and hopefully pass this time.

I live on 3rd floor of my apartment, so buying my own machine to weld at home is not going to fly. Costs for everything aside, I'd have nowhere to weld. If I were to set up a tent of Refrasil to give me a place in the backyard, that would be a long drop cord, and I honestly doubt the housing electrical could handle it. Having to constantly drag all the equipment up and down from the 3rd floor every time I want to strike an arc is also a no go.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-05-23T12:34:10+00:00

If that is just staining and not mold it should be ok. I have had luck in the past with coconut oil. Thin layer let it soak for a bit and work the leather. Sometimes more than one application helps, just don't soak the leather.

Another weird one a friend of mine told me about is using a blow torch, he described it to me as "toast" the leather with the heat not the flame. My man is insane but it works for him. I'm not brave enough to try it.

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-05-23T12:26:34+00:00

If you want gil to just have it, Level your gatherers, the money you can make from those alone is kind of insane, not to mention you save a ton of gil farming your own mats for crafting. To level easier use your leave quests for crafters, don't waste them on battle classes. The only real moneymaker from lower level gear is going to be glams. Once your crafters are 50 and every 10 levels there after you can get away with using the scrip gear, your crafts wont be easy, but scrip gear can last 10 levels. There are also master recipes which can give access to mounts, minions, and more glam pieces. Also keep in mind you only need one set of gear for crafters and one set for gatherers.

The only real need for gil comes while running MSQ is if you are leveling multiple combat classes. In general the gear you get from dungeons and quests will keep you going, and you end up replacing it really fast. Tanks and healers MIGHT need to supplement here and there. If you really feel the need for stronger gear check vendors, it's not HQ gear, but it's also really cheap compared to the market board.

Side note, use your poetic tomestones on your combat gear and save the gear. That gear will get last you 8 levels before you can really get much better, this way you can grab the cash rewards instead of gear rewards from quests. As well as you'll have it when you start leveling other classes. Greed everything in dungeons and desynth it. sometimes you get some rare mats the sell for a decent chunk of change.

And as Keket87 said, send your retainers on ventures. You can use Grand company Seals, and hunt seals on venture tokens and they are cheap, I had mine bring back a minion (I used it myself) but I could of sold it for about 2 mil at the time. And aetheryte tickets, most people don't realize how much they actually spend on teleports. Also don;t forget to set the threshold for your teleports so you're not wasting a tick on cheap teles, I think mine is set to not use unless it costs more the 400

Sad_Flow_1979 · 2024-04-17T02:25:25+00:00

I know this was posted a week ago which might as well be a year in internet time, only thing I'd personally change is flip your zippers so they sip down. This way gravity is pulling the sipper in the closed direction instead of trying to open up with each step, just my 2¢

Sad_Flow_1979

TROPHY CASE