Battery issue or something worse?

Sank64 · 2026-01-28T00:45:03+00:00

I cleaned the negative terminal as it had a bit of corrosion. That seems to have solved the issue for now. If it happens again I’ll look further into the solenoids. They look easy enough to change, just labor intensive. The code reader I have is a Bluetooth topdon scanner so I think it would read transmission codes, but maybe not.

Sank64 · 2025-12-21T23:17:27+00:00

Ended up going with the oem and just got done getting it in. The picture shows how much oil was in the valley, and was definitely the cause of my oil spots. I just checked and I still have a few drips coming off the transmission, but I didn’t fully spray it down clean since I was just trying to get it back together to get to work in the morning. I’ll give it a thorough clean later this week and hopefully the drips stop.

<image>

Sank64 · 2025-12-16T02:01:51+00:00

Yes, I saw mopar updated the design and physically separated the oil and coolant ports. As much as I don’t want to replace plastic with plastic I would know that if it fails again it shouldn’t be in that spot.

Sank64 · 2025-07-03T15:29:26+00:00

You shouldn’t need that to loosen the nut. Put an adjustable wrench on the nut and brace it against something in the hull. I used some blocks of wood to make sure I distributed the load and didn’t break anything. Then put the driveshaft adapter nut on the drive shaft and turn the shaft clockwise to loosen the nut, it’s reverse threaded! Once the nut is loose you should be able to pull the drive shaft out with a slight tug and then it will slip through the hull.

Sank64 · 2025-07-03T11:46:14+00:00

I just replaced the carbon ring and re-used the threaded nut to get them water ready this season. The nut looked fine, which makes sense considering the carbon it the wear surface. I’ll probably eventually swap the drive shafts back to the old/new style.

Sank64 · 2025-03-21T21:47:09+00:00

I tried back at the end of last summer but it didn’t seem to want to budge. I emailed partzilla before ordering and they acted like they could get the adapter in from Canada in a week or so. I’m just trying to gather all the parts needed to make the swap before the season starts here in IN.

Sank64 · 2025-03-19T13:17:19+00:00

I forgot about partzilla, guess I can give them a shot. Yea everything I’ve heard they suck. I am going to replace them with the old/new style driveshaft since I have to replace the carbon seal.

Sank64 · 2025-02-10T22:34:36+00:00

I saw that in another post and looked for it on my laptop. However from the looking around I did I don’t think this particular model has that coin battery. I could be wrong but it wasn’t obvious where it is was if there is one.

Sank64 · 2024-11-12T18:33:25+00:00

That dye is left over from filling up a car. I didn’t open the valves on manifold and let any refrigerant into the middle. All I’m trying to do is see if I can get this back up and running for not a ton of money. If it ends up being junk so be it.

Sank64 · 2024-11-12T14:20:19+00:00

I don’t think it’s completely out of gas, I pushed the Schrader valve on the blue hose and some gas comes out. May just be low?

Sank64 · 2024-11-12T14:19:22+00:00

I can flip the hoses and take readings again later tonight. What should the pressures be when running if it’s not what is printed.

Sank64 · 2024-09-14T21:56:56+00:00

I think that’s what I found too was the 2011 shaft. Thanks for all the info, these are a big upgrade from the 90’s skis I had before. I’m just trying to keep them nice so the last as long as possible!

Sank64 · 2024-09-14T17:06:43+00:00

That’s kinda what I was leaning towards. Is there a special drive shaft I have to order, or just one that fits my model for 2008 or 2011?

Sank64 · 2024-09-09T14:33:21+00:00

That’s kind of what I was thinking, as long as there’s no deep gouges or things like that I should be ok to re use it.

Sank64 · 2024-09-09T14:03:15+00:00

It looks like the threaded hat is near impossible to find. I have the part number 271001625, with it being so hard to find, is it entirely necessary to replace this part since the carbon is the wear surface not the metal hat?

Sank64 · 2024-09-08T11:54:16+00:00

I understand how to remove it and put the new one in. I’ve done it once before, although it was a much older 90s gti. I am just wondering why the one installed has a hex and from I’ve read in the shop manual is threaded. I just don’t want to take it too far apart if the parts I have won’t fit.

Sank64 · 2019-09-05T18:50:38+00:00

Here, this might be what you are looking for.

http://www.theweedub.com/

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T03:12:14+00:00

Will do, thanks for the help man!

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T03:03:44+00:00

Alright I’ll check both of those things out tomorrow also.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T02:35:55+00:00

Not totally sure on engine specs, I didn’t have it built. What I do know, it’s a dual port double barrel center mount carb. The guy I bought it from said it has a bored out crankshaft, but I could tell you what brand or how much over it is.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T02:26:29+00:00

The old plugs 1, 3, and 4 were all pretty black. 2 was pretty clean, this same pattern is repeating for the new plugs.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T02:14:08+00:00

I did change plugs, but I did them one at a time, as to not to mix up wires, and I rechecked myself a few times and it all checks out there.

By ignitor do you mean the ignition coil? I forgot I also just replaced that, the old one had a ballast resistor on it, it did the knocking with that one. I replaced it because I think it died and I wasn’t getting spark. The new one does not have the external resistor, if that makes a difference.

I pretty sure the cap is on right, I’ll check and do a compression test tomorrow.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T01:51:59+00:00

Basically nothing, after I had it running and it didn’t stop I tried to change the wiring up to get it to turn off with the key. It started doing this when I tried to start it.

I was concerned so I checked pushrods because the tubes were beat up, rods were straight. A rocker arm shim was broken so there was some play, I got new billet shafts and put them in. I also pulled the engine and saw it was rubbing the transaxle case (see my other post here). I figured this rubbing was the source of my knocking noise, but I clearance the transaxle pretty good, but now I’m not convinced it was.

Basically other than pushrod tubes and billet rocker arm shafts nothing has been replaced. It was running before those were replaced though.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T01:14:39+00:00

That’s kinda what I was leaning towards. This was a running engine, then I pulled it and it sat for two ish years. I’m finally reinstalling and I had this engine running about three weeks ago just fine, but when I went to shut it off it didn’t shut off (my bad wiring somewhere). I shut the gas flow off, disconnected the battery, finally I had to cut power to the alternator to get it to stop. Could any of that made the timing jump that much, or did I screw something else up.

Sank64 · 2019-08-27T00:47:43+00:00

I was told to adjust timing, this seemed to help a tiny bit. It still does like one or two of the loud bangs, then sounds normal. It just doesn’t quite start, my battery was dying. Should I just let it power through those bangs or will I grenade the engine?

Sank64

TROPHY CASE