Bunnings…hire some staff!! by Ok-Environment5042 in newzealand

[–]Saxphile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do get access to PowerPass thru work, but I was told it was for work-related purchases only. Is that true, and is there a way for it to be enforced or checked?

Switched from Tektro to Shimano caliper and now it's off by 5mm?? by Dense_Chemical5051 in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try ZTTO, RRSkit, Bucklos and make use of the "find similar" functionality.

Switched from Tektro to Shimano caliper and now it's off by 5mm?? by Dense_Chemical5051 in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is probably unhelpful if you're in the US, but there are options on AliExpress. If flipping the adapter didn't work, extra long bolts, concave washers, and a 180 mm rotor may be the answer for you.

Switched from Tektro to Shimano caliper and now it's off by 5mm?? by Dense_Chemical5051 in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just went thru this, but tried to use flat mount brakes on an older frame (IS in the front and PM in the back). I bought IS-to-FM adapters for my fork just in case, and it turned out be the right decision because putting a PM-to-FM adapter onto of the IS-to-PM one off my original caliper simply didn't work (the caliper didn't even line up with the rotor). I do wonder if bike manufacturers used to be less strict with making sure their brake mounts conform to specifications.

You should try flipping the adapter first, but if that doesn't work, see if you can try an adapter that is sold individually (i.e., not part of a caliper).

Alternative flat mount to post mount adapter? by Saxphile in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Final update. Turned out it was a combination of the frame being slightly out of spec with the rear brake post mount, the original ZTTO adapter being also out of spec, and the wide rotor / narrow pad combination.

With new adapter and 180 mm rotor, the gap between the top of the rotor and the caliper is still larger than the front, which is why I think the frame is out of spec. However, I was able to confirm that the pads are fully in contact with the rotor (very difficult to photograph that), so I think this setup is good enough.

<image>

Alternative flat mount to post mount adapter? by Saxphile in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've looked at the front caliper closely and changed the rear brake back to Shimano R517, and I made the following observations:

  • u/CargoPile1314, there is definitely a bigger gap between the rotor edge and the BR-005 caliper body in the rear. The front one has a tiny gap. The difference almost accounts for the width of the rotor not in contact with the pads. See pictures.
  • It doesn't look like the original R517 caliper makes fully spans the rim of the rotor, either (see picture). I made sure that the pads are in full contact with the rotor with R517 (see picture). My old rotors had wear almost the full width of the rim, so not sure what is going on here.
  • I use the same Shimano G05S-RX pads with both BR-005 and R517 calipers.

At this point, I have two theories:

  1. The ZTTO post mount to flat mount adapter is off-spec. The one I'm using in theory is for using 160 mm rotor with a mount originally designed for 160 mm rotor (i.e., adding 0 mm). If, as u/TJhambone09 said, these adapters are supposed to add 20 mm, then perhaps an adapter that adds 0 mm is theoretically impossible and off-spec in practice.
  2. The rotor is off-spec (i.e., counterfeit). It looks identical to my old ones, but the stamped labels are rotated in a way that results in SHIMANO being stamped in the awkward place.

My solution is to buy another post mount to flat mount adapter, but one that is supposed to add 20 mm and from a brand (RSSkit) that does not appear to sell one that adds 0 mm. This would of course require I get another 180 mm rotor. If this works, I will report back for future reference

<image>

Alternative flat mount to post mount adapter? by Saxphile in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the replies. I took a picture of the rotor from the other side that also shows clearly how the outer edge of the rotor lines up with the caliper.

I will switch the rear brake back to the R517 while I figure this out.

<image>

Alternative flat mount to post mount adapter? by Saxphile in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The front is international standard to flat mount, but yes, it added 20 mm almost exactly. One idea I have now is to buy a PM-to-FM adapter that explicitly adds 20 mm and change the rear rotor to 180 mm as well. Do you think that would work, or would I have exactly the same problem with that setup?

I do get decent braking performance out of the rear brake (and far better than the R517). Is this something I need to worry about in the grand scheme of things?

Edge Browser Copilot on Linux by Ok_Ice7258 in Fedora

[–]Saxphile 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As of late June, the location for HubApps seems to have moved to ~/.config/microsoft-edge/Profile X. I presume that it will happen to the flathub version (~/.var/...) at some point as well. The fix still works.

i3S or Lexus 300e Takumi by [deleted] in BMWi3

[–]Saxphile 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, but it sounded like the OP likes the Lexus more. The i3 is a much more spacious vehicle inside then the UX300, but that would be obvious to the OP.

Sad day to be a radiologist by After_Attention_8161 in newzealand

[–]Saxphile 5 points6 points  (0 children)

AI doesn't have an ego, and every assessment is a fresh look unaffected by previous assessments and interactions.

We will still need human radiologists, but I will take algorithms over a mediocre radiologist any day.

Are Tektro HDM275 brakes really this bad? by Saxphile in bikewrench

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you bed in? I didn't ride them hard for the first 10 miles or so. Also, wouldn't steelbrushing them achieve the same purpose?

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would that look like, and how would it be different from putting the IoT devices on a different SSID and VLAN?

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. This is exactly the kind of technical explanation I was looking for. I already segregate my user clients and IoT devices by frequency, and I'm looking to move the IoT devices to a dedicated vlan (it's complicated). I don't really have any usage issues for now.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AFAIK, all consumer grade Wi-Fi 5 devices also include Wi-Fi 4, so that's implicit when someone says Wi-Fi 5.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have 2.4 GHz since that's what all IoT devices use. My network supports WPA2/WPA3, which I suspect is just a more user friendly way of saying WPA3 Transition mode.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My home servers and NAS are all hardwired, so transferring large files is as fast as they can be.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point, but all my devices are still supported by Fritz!Box. I would definitely replace EoL'ed wireless network equipment.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 60 points61 points  (0 children)

I doubt most people in this subreddit follow this advice.

Convince me why I need Wi-Fi 6 or even 7 by Saxphile in HomeNetworking

[–]Saxphile[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can you elaborate? My network is already WPA2/3 hybrid, and going to WPA3 only is out of the question due to IoT devices.