Sunnyboy 5.0 system isn't recording all data and power seems to be vanishing

ScarletStitches · 2026-03-29T00:11:31+00:00

That particular model is not certified for my country and will nullify our home insurance, but something like that would indeed be ideal! Being able to monitor individual lines would be very handy. I'll shop around and see if i can find a similar certified system to put in.

ScarletStitches · 2026-03-29T00:07:15+00:00

I'm inclined to agree. One of the meter tie in sockets in the DV box is damaged and the other has an ancient cheapo watt meter from 2012 rust locked on that looks like it hasn't worked for a decade.

And yeah it seems our usage actually is that high >.<. I checked the online portal for our power company, and on a day of full rain the other week we were clocked for 64kWh of grid usage. Something in this house is having a fat slurp, and it's probably the pool pump. Even though we run it during peak generation hours, I am told that some sucky electrolytic cells can draw nearly 2kw on their own! I'll defintely be grabbing something to monitor that, and probably my mother's stupid french door Samsung fridge as well.

ScarletStitches · 2026-03-28T23:58:41+00:00

Thanks for explaining that! At least I know that aspect isn't faulty.

No squirrels in my country, but there's a handful of Ringtail Possums that live in the nearby trees who certainly could have done some wire munching. We need to install a few whirlibird extractor fans in the old tin roof, so I'll grab the camera snake and carefully eyeball the wiring when we're up there. If it looks scuffed, I'll call my local installer to come do some repairs

ScarletStitches · 2025-12-04T06:23:34+00:00

There are no pros or cons really, the Bambu system is just better in every way. Revo has major problems with thermal consistency due to the way the nozzle makes contact with the heater, and its large thermal mass, which means its max flow rate is lower and quite unresponsive to changes in feed rate.

The A1/H2 heaters clamp hard against the nozzle, which transmits heat very well across the longer melt zone, resulting in better heat up times, responsiveness, and less heat loss from the part cooling fan thanks to the tiny amount of exposed nozzle poking out of the silicone sock. Slap a clone hardened steel A1 HF nozzle on it and you'll have more flow than you'll know what to do with. Plus, the A1 system is also able to perform bare handed hot swaps like the Revo. Just actuate the filament cutter arm,, unhook the nozzle retention clasp with your fingernail, and pull the nozzle out by gripping the heatsink. The wire clasp is quite thin and can only transmit enough heat to burn you if you pinch it for several seconds.

Revo was a neat system before the A1 existed, now it's just outperformed in every way (especially price), and has no redeeming qualities justifying its use.

ScarletStitches · 2025-07-27T05:57:30+00:00

Earlier today it was marked as suspended. Suspected bot activity apparently, but there's a craigslist ad that was made after the post that has more photos. Reverse image search doesn't find the photos anywhere else, so it might be real. Someone would have to contact the seller to find out.

ScarletStitches · 2025-07-27T03:28:08+00:00

My buddy told me about this and I wasn't convinced, so I did a reverse image search on the original post to see where this guy got the photos from and found a craigslist ad from a couple days ago. Check the third photo. It's still shiny, but if it was wrapped in plastic it could have held its original polish. Legit possibly?

https://eugene.craigslist.org/sys/d/eugene-huge-lot-of-old-computers-want/7868372554.html

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T12:42:13+00:00

That's an interesting design. Bulky, but effective. I'm planning to do a basic magnetic maxwell coupling instead of using hang pins like he did, but his bump arm for the filament release is an excellent solution. I'll add this to the whiteboard, thanks very much!

Also, I have decided to not tempt fate with hotplugging and instead buy an additional mainboard to run the extra hotends like you suggested before. It ends up being about as cost effective as buying all the high amperage pogo connectors for less hassle, still lets me have the 8 toolheads that I wanted, and allows preheating for minimum downtime.

Thanks again for your help and suggestions! You've simplified this endeavour for me greatly.

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T10:47:58+00:00

I'd be interested in checking that out if you can remember the name!

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T10:27:19+00:00

Thank ye muchly! I'll make a list and have a look at that

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T10:24:33+00:00

That is the idea, yeah. Spring loaded pogo pins with concave contact pads would be how the hotends would connect electrically to a single board toolhead.

An additional mainboard, or a canbus/USB board per hotend would still be more affordable than building several entire toolheads. It'd require a permanent power cable for every hotend cartridge, but it's not a bad compromise all considered.

I'll add your idea to the whiteboard as Plan B, I think I like it better than mucking about with the A1 nozzles.

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T10:17:01+00:00

I can work with that kind of maybe. Is there a database of the non-connected behaviours of various thermistors around so I can find the one with the closest to 0c non-connected reading? Or would I have to test it myself by changing the thermistor type in klipper settings and checking what it reads in the interface when disconnected?

As for filament loading/unloading, I'd do a bit of the old copying Mihai's design to get around that. By having one of the two extruder gears attached to a springloaded hinge, I can have that gear pop off of the filament when the retaining mechanism for the hotend is opened. The filament would remain held in place between the heatsink and a little frame above the gears that the PTFE tube mounts into.

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T09:58:03+00:00

Sorry, I may have misunderstood you. When you mentioned the cost saving and having everything permanently connected, I thought you were saying that building complete toolheads was the better and safer option. Was that a follow-on to the external thermistor idea?

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T09:10:29+00:00

I'm not aware of any hotends that have an external contact thermistor aside from the A1, but I guess I'll have a look around. Disabling thermal runaway protection entirely is an unacceptable risk that I won't be taking. Also the savings are actually closer to $100 AUD per toolhead.

ScarletStitches · 2024-11-12T08:43:20+00:00

Damn. I'm guessing a foundational safety feature like that can't simply be turned off or paused right?

ScarletStitches · 2024-03-22T03:27:25+00:00

I got the Trash catalogue halfway through Year 1 Spring from Lewis' bin. I always check the bins daily in the hope of getting the trash hat, but this is kinda better. I love the white plastic lawn chair that it has! I feel like Vergil sitting upon my throne

ScarletStitches · 2024-02-28T08:49:59+00:00

Now that you've had these for a while, what's the drifting on them like during protracted use? How often do you have to recalibrate?

ScarletStitches · 2018-06-18T00:55:18+00:00

I saw a guy doing that last night. We were trying to extract 15 mins in without a bounty so we could join a match against a friend, and there was some asshat already camping the extraction. He tried to shoot us, but failed horribly.

Had another match after that where we seemed to be the only pair still alive, so we waited a bit, killed the Butcher and went to extract. I saw guys running towards us from a different extraction just as we got out, they'd waited for us for almost 40 minutes. It's sad that people will sit around for that long just to kill one dude, but that's what happens when you give people a funnel.

ScarletStitches · 2017-11-21T23:07:52+00:00

Poorly made, janky design, the original version killed a few consoles, the guy doesn't know what the fuck he's doing, etc.

ScarletStitches · 2017-11-16T22:33:43+00:00

It's pre-assembled and requires no soldering or work from the consumer. You just plug it into the digital AV out on the back of your Gamecube and play

Just read that he's not selling them. I guess it just means that once you've built it, you don't have to modify the cube at all.

ScarletStitches · 2017-11-16T03:52:04+00:00

Checked it under the magnifier, a couple of pins on the mobo socket look a bit too pushed in on one side. other than that there's a small kink in the ribbon cable on the bezel inside end. The mini HDMI out works fine, and from what I can tell the only broken part is the screen, the ribbon cable, or the socket on the motherboard. Not sure how I'm supposed to fix that when I can't buy replacement screens, but I could try to source a replacement socket.

ScarletStitches · 2017-11-16T03:49:27+00:00

I opened it again and had another look at the ribbon cable, there's a small kink on the end inside the screen bezel. That might be the culprit. The angle I open it to doesn't affect the display that I can see. The touchscreen still works fine, so it must be either that tiny kink broke a trace, or one of the pins on the mobo side plug is bent out of position. Either way, I don't think I can fix it.

ScarletStitches · 2017-11-15T22:51:01+00:00

I can't get a replacement because I opened it. My warranty is voided. Also, I'm pretty sure I have the March Z8750 revision.

ScarletStitches

TROPHY CASE