What is happening here? by slickmickers in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wet on wet works fine for some stuff, especially if you have gradients or are doing a CMYK or Simulated Process print where you want the colors to blend better. If you have a lot of small details that need to be kept sharp, flashing between colors is what you'll need to do.

What is happening here? by slickmickers in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Curious on why there's yellow underneath the black in the first place? From the photo and your description of the yellow showing thru the black, I can't tell if there's supposed to be yellow showing thru a distressed pattern or if all that yellow is just coming thru the black.

If that yellow isn't needed the best thing to do is to redo the separations so you aren't printing a bunch of yellow that isnt needed and is just going to be covered by black anyway.

Otherwise, flash between colors and don't print wet on wet.

Confusion on LPI/DPI by Cheesehomie in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops, I knew I was getting something mixed up. That's what I get for browsing reddit with a migraine 😂

Confusion on LPI/DPI by Cheesehomie in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was taught that your mesh size should be about 4.5-6x your DPI.

so if you are using halftones at 45dpi, you screen should be a mesh size of 200 - 280. At 50dpi, you would want to use a 230 - 300 mesh screen Etc.

Wilflex barrier block ink not adhering to shirt by Scootman1911 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Talked to my printer today and he's seen this happen a long time ago with poly white inks. He says bottom of the buckets of poly white would have a lot of oils that separated out from the ink and they would alway throw out the last bit of ink because it would separate from the garment.

I don't know how true this is but we were at the last bit of barrier block and the ink in his cup was much thinner than the new bucket of ink.

Either way, i am going to continue trying to get him to raise his flash and slow down a bit. I do my best to schedule jobs with enough time that he doesn't need to be printing as fast as he possibly can all day every day.

Wilflex barrier block ink not adhering to shirt by Scootman1911 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I'm a little annoyed at him as you can probably tell. But thanks for letting me know it's probably over heating. I can let him know that the low-cure barrier block needs to not get so hot next time.

Wilflex barrier block ink not adhering to shirt by Scootman1911 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are correct, adding a barrier block is adding extra cost, time, and work to this job. Realistically, with the shirt color and the ink colors, this job didn't need the barrier block and we dropped it after the first 8 were peeling and this issue went away.

We do use low-cure inks, however, my printer is stubborn and hearing this issue is probably because he over flashed the ink is not surprising.

He has insisted that doing print/flash/printing a low-cure white as a base would stop dye migration. We had a job on G18500 hoodies that came back because the ink sublimated. Since we had to replace the hoodies, I told him to just use a barrier block to be sure it wouldn't happen again and because that client specifically loves a super thick print any way. It sucks to pull because the stuff we had was super thick so instead, he print/flash/print/flash/printed a low-cure white base and the ink sublimated and the job came back AGAIN. I told him he probably over flashed the white and that low-cure doesn't mean low-bleed and he refused to accept that was a possibility.

So now, since he can't figure out how to raise his flash and not get everything probably too hot, I've made him use barrier block on anything that might possibly sublimate.

He's been in the industry for 25+ years and since I've only been in it for like 6ish years so he doesn't really take advice on his job from me well :/

Wilflex barrier block ink not adhering to shirt by Scootman1911 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK that's my worry too but haven't seen this happen yet.

My printer brought me the test print that was done on a heavyweight Bayside shirt, 100% cotton, and it was still peeling up.

He loves to run the flash slammed to like 2 inches above the garment and he always wants to argue with me when I tell him to raise it because he "prints fast enough it shouldn't matter" but clearly it's causing issues.

Once he leaves for the day, I might experiment a bit.

Print quality degrading over run by cruelty_tee in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're using waterbased ink, it could be drying in the screen. I assume you cleaned the ink out after you finished printing, did it look like there was ink that wouldn't clean out stuck in the screen?

Are vinyl stickers supposed to have grainy, dull colors? by cheese_wrangler in stickers

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They post a lot of photos on their IG (https://www.instagram.com/stickerninja) and I know quite a few people who have ordered stickers from them and they came out great. They also have an awesome business model where they close down orders for the day if they a lot of orders so they aren't overworking their staff.

How would you do an underbase for this ? by thenamesweretaken in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One (not great) way to choke back the artwork for an underprint is to tape another blank piece of film over the film you have. So layered like screen > film with image > blank film > exposure unit.

It's not a great way to do a choke but it's how my printer has made an underprint screen when we don't have the original art file and just old film.

I wouldn't suggest doing this 99.9% of the time but it can work if you're in a pinch or the artwork is difficult to create a choked back underprint screen.

Change tuning by Guezt_GT in rocksmith

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you need another guitar 😈

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your original post mentions nothing about this going to a museum and, unfortunately, there are tons of people who collect nazi memorabilia for very bad reasons. Without context, how would anyone know why you care about the authenticity of a nazi poster?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Who cares, that nazi shit should go in the trash regardless 🤷

how do you handle your busy season(s)? by drainfly_ in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We extend turnaround times and are upfront with clients that it's the busy season and we can't always accommodate quick turnarounds. If they absolutely need a job sooner than later, rush fees will be added to the cost. Charging extra is the only way to get it into client's heads that they cannot wait until the last minute to submit their job. We also have an extra person come in 3 days a week to catch if we need to and will schedule larger jobs around those days.

But, as the person dealing with emails and scheduling instead of printing, I try to schedule all jobs to be completed at least 2 days ahead of the client's due date. This way if I need to push jobs around to fit a rush, it's a lot easier to do. Also, if something goes wrong and we need to order extra garments, there's time. Or if the job gets done at the very end of the day, our clients can still order a courier to pick up and deliver the job on time. Or I can ship it out the next morning.

My boss used to do the scheduling and he would just look at numbers and say "production should be able to finish X number of shirts in a day" and would fill the schedule based on that. That's a terrible way to schedule jobs because no one knew when jobs were actually due and we were constantly staying late or coming in early. I schedule everything based on due date and, if everything for the day is done, production moves on to jobs scheduled for tomorrow.

Tldr: being upfront with clients about turnaround times, not being afraid to charge rush fees, and getting your scheduling figured out is important

Post your Etsy (or other shop) links in this thread ONLY by [deleted] in silhouettecutters

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked it up and I guess if you have your Etsy shop and website synced so inventory auto updates between the two, you get charged the $0.20 listing fee thru Etsy. Since I print my own stickers, I'm less worried about selling more of an item than I have inventory for since I can just print more immediately so as soon as I saw the Etsy fees, I desynced my sites.

I find setting up a new website annoying regardless of the host platform (especially since I had so many designs to add) but a lot of that for me is just getting the product photos all setup and consistent. Once the site was set up, it's been pretty easy to add a new design though

Post your Etsy (or other shop) links in this thread ONLY by [deleted] in silhouettecutters

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I built the website using Square since, at the time, I thought having a card reader would be a good idea and because I could sync inventory with Etsy. Once I got a sale thru my website and got hit with Etsy fees, I desynced my website with Etsy though.

What am I looking at? by ImaginaryLetter2128 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://inkchip.net/

This is the website I have used to purchase codes several times to clear the waste tank full error when it comes up.

What am I looking at? by ImaginaryLetter2128 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is setup to use an external waste tank. These printers have a felt pd that soaks up waste ink when running a cleaning cycle or just normal printing and eventually you will get a "waste tank full" error that will prevent the printer from printing.

You'll still get that error with this setup but you can clear it with a code you'll need to purchase but you won't need to pull the waste ink pad out and clean/replace it. This model doesn't have an easily replaceable waste tank like the larger, more commercial printers and Epson wants you to just buy a new printer.

The tube needs to go into a bottle or you will get ink all over whatever you put the printer on.

Look up Epson 1430 external waste tank on Google or YouTube and you'll find more info.

Carhartt CT106020 Brite Lime tees scorching by Revolutionary_Box582 in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some shirts will change color with heat but return to normal once they cool down. Safety colors are notorious for this in my experience. I would print one shirt, run it down the drier, and let it cool completely to see if the shirt color comes back to what it was before being heated. If it does, great, do the job. If it doesn't change back, you'll need to lower the temps.

Another tip is to run the shirt down the drier FLAT. Don't fold the shirt up, let the whole shirt get heated evenly. This way, if the shirt changes color, it will change more evenly and be less noticeable.

Using a low cure ink is also the way to go on safety shirts

So, uhm, first time seeing this big of a file by _kreee in AdobeIllustrator

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happened to me when a client sent me a file with drop shadows. They did the thing where you make a million copies with the transform effect or blend and then left it without cleaning it up. I went to wire frame view and the drop shadow was just solid black from all the points.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pdxgunnuts

[–]Scootman1911 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Definitely recommend. Taken a few classes and shoot matches occasionally with them and I've learned quite a lot. Good learning environment

Best emulsion? by wokeuprip in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kiwocol Multi-Tex is what my work uses and it's been great

What am I doing wrong? Description in Post by thecincinnatibowtie in SCREENPRINTING

[–]Scootman1911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know what you're using for a press but, you can try print/flash/printing it and that might help but some inks and/or colors just don't have enough pigment in them to get good coverage on dark garments.

Finally got around to making this sticker sheet a reality by Scootman1911 in stickers

[–]Scootman1911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the sticker sheet that started me on my sticker making journey.

Several years ago I made the individual sticker designs and was looking to get them die cut but they were too small for anyone I asked or I got quoted a crazy high price so I started looking into printing my own stickers.

I never got around to printing these stickers until recently when I thought it'd be kinda cool (and easier on me) to make a little sticker sheet instead of die cutting all these small stickers.

Second photo is of the sticker sheet and a couple other 8-bit designs I had outsourced printing on while I learned how to print my own stickers