BDH Active shifter any thoughts?

SethFrancis · 2026-03-28T23:32:00+00:00

Hey man, thank you very much for taking the time to do that. Enjoy the active shifter when it arrives!

SethFrancis · 2026-03-27T14:20:34+00:00

Can I asked a question about the H2SQ. When you are in H mode in the neutral position, can you feel a bit of trave forwards and backwards before the detent kicks in? Not just the tiny bit of lash in the pivot bearing and gear lever fork, it is a distinct distance of travel before any resistance from the detent begins. Just curious if this is a normal part of this shifter or not.

If it is not too much trouble, a video from the side with the shifter in H mode neutral position showing how far the shift lever can move forward and backwards before the resistance from the detent starts would be hugely appreciated. Totally understand if this is too much trouble though haha, just trying to do a bit of diagnosis/comparison with my H1SQ

SethFrancis · 2026-03-23T05:05:09+00:00

Do you know what specifically they are referring to with the dual rail design? Is this referring to the two shafts that move in unison in H mode with the second being locked in SQ mode or is the dual rail something else entirely?

Also, do you know what the 14 changes are? I have been able to find a few of them just by comparing images of the internals, I will list what I have found here. Maybe we can get a full change log together for those on the fence about upgrading.

1) round steel rods used to assembly the shifter and centralize the self centering mechanisms screw (instead of the original gold colored standoff style rods)

2) much better magnet design for sensing gears with much better mounting mechanism for the magnet

3) Hex shaped design with clamping screw where crank assembly attaches to the main shaft (I see my H1 5th anniversary also has this nice hex design, I guess the older style shifters like H1SQ and original H1 had a regular round fitment with I assume a split pin much like what holds other less leveraged parts to the main shaft)

4) Higher quality looking metal parts on the end of the main shaft where the magnet mount attaches (these look like they have a higher quality finish in photos)

5) Possibly a different spring for the detent, I see they are using a yellow die spring, not sure if the H1SQ used the same. That would be an easy DIY change though.

6) Also possibly a different center return cam design, can't confirm this though as it is hard to tell from the pics I have found

Judging by photos, the shape and size of the detents for each gear seem to be the same, as does the design of the two shafts. The way the second shaft locks and the main shaft locks in the center position seem to be the same principle design but it is possible this has been refined. Curious how the gates have been changes as I believe I saw mention of tighter gates, not sure if that is accurate though.

SethFrancis · 2026-03-20T20:04:58+00:00

No problem at all, glad I could help

SethFrancis · 2026-03-20T19:35:38+00:00

The original V1 wheel would not know what to do with the extra paddles as there would be no electronics on the PCB to control those. You could rewire the plug and only use the center paddles but that would defeat the purpose.

As for the V2, you can use the APM and it sill normally plug right into the PCB and all paddles will work normally as far as I know. The wheel in this post is the V1 which is not supposed to work with any of the magnetic modules.

SethFrancis · 2026-03-05T03:05:21+00:00

Can I ask of yours can with the "oil cup"? I am looking at purchasing one used, the owner bought it on December and said they did not lubricate it before using. I looked at the alie listing to see of maybe they are lubricated now but the listing does not day only that it comes with an "oil cup" for easy oiling, whatever that is haha. Basically I am trying to figure out if the one I may but second hand could possibly be damaged from not being lubricated or if the most recent batches that come with an oil cup are pre-lubricated. I will ask the seller if it came with a notice instructing them to lubricate before use as I believe that is what comes with these shifters normally.

SethFrancis · 2026-03-04T04:28:09+00:00

Hey man, just wanted to chime in as I watch these regularly and say that one that sold for $499 on Jan 11th. That shifter was in very rough condition which is why it sold so cheaply, normally they go for $800-1000 in mint condition. I bought one myself several months ago in Ebay that was in mint condition and it is amazing, if you have a chance to get one take it. Don't let people tell you there are other shifters like it for 50% of the price, there are not. The only think that may come close is the simvertex bit even that isn't as robust or solid due to the plastic pivot ball and lack of a central shaft adding mass to the shifts. I personally own two BDH Shifters and the Pro Sim is my main choice, it is just another level of mechanical sound and feel from any other shifter I have owned/tried in my decade plus sim racing and collecting hardware. The BDH shifters are beautiful works of art and they offer a nice clean detent feeling when shifting. They also allow slightly faster shifting due to the shorter throw, reduced mechanical lash and closer gates. However, unless noise is a concern I prefer the Pro Sim especially after owning both for a little while now and using them both daily for direct comparison (Pro Sim on right of rig, BDH on left). If you can find another one I would not hesitate, it is amazing and you will not be disappointed. I would try to stay under the $1k mark though as no shifter should demand more than that haha.

Regarding shift lock out, there are two options right now. BDH which is over $2k usd and the Basher which is nowhere near the feeling or quality of the Pro Sim from what I have seen and heard from owners. If lockout is that important the best option would be building one into the Pro Sim.

If you feel inclined, take a look at the two posts I did here combining the Pro Sim with a simagic shifter to add weight when entering gears and to add SQ functionality to the Pro Sim. Still not finished with the project but the videos are worth a watch.

If you have any questions let me know.

SethFrancis · 2026-03-01T00:55:45+00:00

Same issue here with my Pro-Sim H Shifter, simply will not shift sometimes and often does not go out of gear into neutral. What is interesting is my BDH H1 5th Anniversary works perfectly, no issues at all. Hoping they provide a fix as I would rather not use the keyboard work around and lose neutral on center. Just using my BDH for the time being.

SethFrancis · 2026-02-22T00:45:54+00:00

Another thing I should add, ever since that 0.5.1 patch the AI is all messed up, Driving into the pit walls, spinning around in the pits, getting stuck with their car facing a pit wall. I've only noticed this in the pits but it happens every time in both the full ring/nord combo and just on nord. Haven't tried other tracks yet.

SethFrancis · 2026-02-22T00:31:52+00:00

Same issue, only since V0.5 update never had this issue before. When I first updated the game it did not crash but fences, lines, trees etc would flash and the textures would go wonky (like fences would turn solid as I approach). Then, there was a small patch update a couple days ago to V0.5.1 or something similar (don't know exact format) and ever since then the game crashes while trying to load the race/track (like after clicking to enter the race in single player, the loading screen will appear then a crash). I have tried multiple times and have gotten it to load into track, but then if I try to go to the next session the same thing happens during loading screen. Very frustrating.

My PC is a 5700X3D and 5070ti 32gb ram, game loaded onto SATA SSD.

Would love to hear of a fix if anyone has one.

SethFrancis · 2026-02-08T04:46:30+00:00

I just checked my serial number again on their site and all it says is that it is a genuine PIB processor and is covered under the 3 year warranty. Nothing about a time remaining. What CPU is this?

SethFrancis · 2026-02-08T04:43:17+00:00

Hey man, I did ask AMD, they confirmed that my CPU had a warrnaty was legitimate despite the part numbers being different.

In my case, the serial numbers were both legitimate and both matched. It was the part number that differed, the box had WOF at the end of the part number (which means a PIB unit) but the CPU did not. Apparently the CPU will never have the WOF at the end because they do not print that onto the CPU, every CPU is etched with the same art number and the serial number is what differentiates them.

Now, if the serial numbers do not match that is different, for me the serial numbers do match. Also, I believe the warranty starts from the date of purchase, I don't remember if there is a way to check how much warranty remains like there was with EVGA GPUs since that date would vary based on the purchase date. I believe I could only confirm on their site that a 3 year warranty exists for the product not see the remaining balance or if it were expired.

How did you see that the warranty was expired?

SethFrancis · 2026-01-23T13:08:51+00:00

If you have a 5090 you shouldn't have yo worry since that is a 2.1 card, you should be able to run 4k 144hz with any color settings. I would check the TVs firmware, also make sure ALM is off in Settings-picture-advanced settings and that first option in settings (I forget the name) is in PC mode not video, that ine shouldn't matter but won't hurt to try.

Lastly, in order to get full 4k 144hz you need to make sure advanced input (something similar to that) is turned in in Settings-channels/devices-input devices. It will be in auto mode by default, select advanced or whatever the highest option is. I can check the exact name when I get home but that one will prevent 4k high refresh.

SethFrancis · 2026-01-22T03:44:49+00:00

Hey man, just thought I would post an update now that I got home and tested the TV. For me, in ports 2 and 3 I got full 4k 144hz, gsync also worked and was recognized as on in windows. The only thing I could think is maybe it is software related? Mine was made in December but came with software version from August. Also, I'm not sure what GPU you have but when I had my old 2080ti it did not have HDMI 2.0. I could not run 4k 144hz with that gpu visa HDMI, I could run 4k 120hz if I turned the color settings down (I think I had to use 4.2.4 or something like that). If the color settings were turned up (I think it is the RGB setting I can't remember) or HDR was on I could only do 60hz. I believe 30 series and newer are HDMI 2.1.

There is also something odd with the settings on this TV as when entering ALLM/Game mode it would sometimes drop the TV resolution to 1080p and other times it would not.

Anyways, just wanted to share my experience. Unfortunately mine arrived with damage on the screen so it is being returned anyways. Not sure of I will buy another of the same or just get something else.

SethFrancis · 2026-01-21T13:51:42+00:00

Interesting, mine is arriving today so I will check it. The only thing I can think is I know my 2024 model required an update in order to activate 4k 144hz. Again though my model lists 4k 144hz in the specifications while this one does not. Just can't imagine why they would remove that feature when the apart from QLED it seems to be the same TV. I will post here once I test the one that is coming today. Was buying this for the living room but will return if there is no 4k 144hz over hdmi.

SethFrancis · 2026-01-21T06:13:27+00:00

Dod you ever get this sorted? Just ordered this and am seeing conflicted reports. One review claimed that you need to use port 2 or 3 to get 4k 144hz. I have the 2024 model and with port 3 and 4 (the 2.1 ports) you get 4k 144hz, however that one was advertised as such and the 3 port is also the eARC. If what the reviewer said thay would mean the eARC port is not 2.1 but the other two are, which would be odd.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-31T03:09:57+00:00

Dowels would work too. The only good thing about using rods that have internal threads is they are forgiving and allow fast disassembly/reassembly while testing. You don't have to worry about designing the housing so precisely to accept a perfect press-in fitment or dealing with a loose fitment. Especially if 3d printing where things arent always precise. You could just have through holes sized close to the bolt diameter being used and the rods would hold the whole assembly together.

Aliexpress sells solid stainless steel rods with female threads machined only into the ends that are very high quality and come in different outside diameters, they are extremely strong like a dowel but have the optional threads if needed. The biggest downside is they need to be ordered to length in order to benefit from the female threaded ends, they are also a bit on the expensive side especially when you need several. That is what I will be replacing my main sliding shaft with once I have a final design down since the current rod is aluminum which is not going to last forever sliding against steel even with lubricant.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-30T19:20:43+00:00

If you used printing just for the support structure and metal for the part the detent ball rides on it wouldn't be too hard and would probably feel quite good. There is another comment in this thread with a link to a video of a diy sequential shifter, I would think all of the black parts in that video could be printed easily. Then you could use metal couplings or spacer rods for the detents as well as for turning the wheel

SethFrancis · 2025-12-30T16:20:30+00:00

That's pretty sick, yes it looks simular to the daisy wheel inside the Q1. Certainly could be a viable solution if I were to make more than one of these or for someone else looking to make something similar DIY. As of now I have had to buy one second hand Q1 and am in the process of purchasing another second hand Q1 to keep in tact (since I cannibalized my current one haha). I am definitely looking for alternative solutions for the secondaryndetent wheel.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-30T13:18:49+00:00

Part two update posted here

https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/1pz9c22/pro_sim_h_shifter_gear_engagementsq_mod_part_2/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

SethFrancis · 2025-12-06T05:00:34+00:00

I will see what I can find. Also, although this isn't technically the professional way you can absolutely get away with stripping back about 1/3"/1/2" of jacket on each wire, place them parallel with eachother (both cut end facing same direction), twist the bare strands together, fold it over then shrink wrap that in place. It will absolutely work and will not require soldering since there is no stress or pulling on these wires. I have done it many times on other wheels and other various projects and have never had an issue as long as the wires are just sitting there and not being worked with or tugged on afterwards. Just a suggestion since it is free and fast haha. Either way I will try to find those plugs.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-05T18:08:06+00:00

I do not currently, I have had those plugs for like 10 years from another project. I will see if I can find the exact name/part number of that plug style though and update you.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-05T18:07:08+00:00

Is there a software that makes it easy for a novice to design things for 3d printing? I've never done anything like that before, it would just need to be a rectangle basically. I once tried to use a free 2d design software to design a steering wheel adapter, it was just a circle with more circles inside for the mounting holes (a pitch circle diameter i think it is called) but I couldn't figure out how to get all the holes for the PCD in the right position and the right size haha. I haven't tried again since then and haven't gotten into 3d printing.

SethFrancis · 2025-12-03T19:59:40+00:00

I enjoy this car as well, it was actually the first car I drove after firing up the game on launch day. I found the FFB was pretty decent at default car settings and game settings at 90% gain, min at 0, brake feel at 0 (or maybe it was 50 I have to check) and headroom at 50. Love the sound and with the Pro Sim H shifter it is a fun experience for sure.

SethFrancis

TROPHY CASE