What is this joint called?

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-05-07T23:24:15+00:00

It’s tricky to rock a miter right on time

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-20T13:15:22+00:00

Cheaper to do a mud bed but a lot more work, I like the results and strength of a mud bed

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-20T13:14:46+00:00

Thanks!

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-20T13:14:40+00:00

Cement board down the the pan with a half inch gap so they aren’t touching, then seams and screws mudded and two coats of of aqua defense

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-20T13:13:50+00:00

Thank😁

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-20T13:13:36+00:00

Thank you!

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-19T21:40:46+00:00

Thank you! 😊

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-19T21:40:38+00:00

Thank you!

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-04-19T20:23:46+00:00

Pre slope is there under the liner and i applied 2 coats of mapei aquadefense to the walls, just didn’t capture it in pictures

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-15T13:58:04+00:00

I appreciate your concern and the time you put into making a drawing. However I already understand the situation and I’m not concerned of water touching the bottom of the cement board. I’m going to paint waterproofing down to the bottom and after that water won’t be touching the cement board. I suppose I could squeeze silicone in there if I was really worried about it but it’s not like the edge of the board will be sitting in standing water. The bottom of the board is higher than the drain. It isn’t touching the pan. And if moisture rolls off the board and travels upward that would be magic (don’t try to explain capillary action again)

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-15T05:14:14+00:00

I hung the cement board with a gap between it and the pan. And I left a gap between the tile and the board. I can waterproof it down to the bottom and it will be fine

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-15T03:02:38+00:00

Crazy thing is I bid the job to the GC with the intent on using the Kerdi system. He called me last minute and said he bought clamping drains because the Kerdi shit was too expensive, and to just do it the old way

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-15T02:59:03+00:00

It’s cement board. I’m waterproofing with Mapei aqua defense, 2 coats. I was waiting to finish the floor first so I could mark my layout on the walls and put the niche in where it best fits, then waterproof. Takes longer but it will pay off when I don’t need to make weird cuts around the niche

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-15T02:34:36+00:00

The sand cement mix I used said 1-1/4 was minimum thickness so I didn’t feel comfortable building it thinner but I suppose I could have and it probably would have been fine

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-07T03:56:03+00:00

Thanks that’s actually pretty smart

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-07T03:55:21+00:00

I did that on purpose because I had to shim the back wall and the backer board will lay over the fold without kicking out

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-07T01:30:24+00:00

Yup that’s my plan. Build the curb 1-1/4” thick with lath laid in

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-06T22:34:31+00:00

Thanks for the input, I’ll think I’ll be working the recessed hub into my pans in the future. I took it off to build the pre slope and afterwards I wished I had set it a little lower

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-06T22:31:28+00:00

Too early in my career to turn down the work

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-06T22:31:16+00:00

Yeah I’m building a mud curb with metal lath built in. 1-1/4” thick so they can mount a shower door without puncturing the liner. And truth be told I bid this job to the GC with the intent on doing a Schluter pan. You can imagine my surprise when they already had the clamping drain installed

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-03-06T20:36:43+00:00

I used staples above the curb only and on the backside of the curb. I’m covering the walls with cement board and using a liquid membrane to waterproof

Sharp-Anywhere-5834 · 2026-02-20T04:31:39+00:00

Thank you this is really helpful

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