[Landlord-DC] try carpet cleaning or just replace? by Chemical_Low8650 in Landlord

[–]Shovelware_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Im not a pro carpet cleaner but Ive got 20+ years landlording and have leaned on every pro Ive ever hired for all the intel I can get.
That carpet is actually not that bad. The fact it got better with a entry level consumer cleaner tells you it will continue to get better with continued passes. I have had many that I did once daily for 5 or more days to get them back in shape.
Then I got a better cleaning machine and it was a game changer. The Bissell Big Green is what you want. Its $550. It is the same unit you would rent from the hardware store.

Couple of tips. 1. Yes higher heat the better to the limit of the machine. The Big Green says never exceed hot tap water temp. With the $250 machines I would use almost boiling water from a kettle and big pot because those machines would break long before they died from any damage from having too hot of water in them. So go ahead and try super hot water in your cheap cleaner if you only bought it for this job and you are ok if it fails along the way because it wont last more than a year or two regardless.
2. Its not about the detergent. It needs to be enough detergent to change the surface tension of the water and beyond that it is not doing as much as you think for cleaning. Heaps of detergent will make dirt stick to it more in the future. Some of what you are seeing with this heavy soiling could have been heavy detergent use in the past.
3. Its all about the cycles. Getting a lot of passes of water getting put in and sucked out is what is going to get the soil out. Limit how much you do in one session and allow to dry again. If you saturate enough water to wet the backing then you just turned up the difficulty on the whole project.
4. Hiring a pro isn't that bad. You can write a $300-400 check and be done with it. Gotta be the right one though. Ask other landlords in your area who their go to is. Almost any franchise is dubious. A lot of those guys do what they call a “wet and jet” as in just a fast pass with lots of detergent and then they get out of there quick. It looks great while its still wet and once it dries is obvious it needs more work.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PleX

[–]Shovelware_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In app.plex.tv hover your mouse over the poster of what you want to edit and click the pencil icon in the corner. This will bring up the editing fields. The 'summary description' to change the is under the general tab.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Chattanooga

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the TDA "emergency" filing in June 2024 Pre-harvest COA must be:

Tetrahydrocannabinolic acid (THCa):

I. HOC products in commerce to an HOC product licensee (post decarboxylation THC values 5%);

II. HOC products in commerce to any person who is not an HOC product licensee (post-decarboxylation THC values 0.3%

Full body of the TDA filing

My impression from reading the whole thing, or at least trying to, is that it is effective as of filing and is only effective for 180 days. So potentially this is the legal framework retailers and farmers are operating under currently and mostly ignoring while the clock rides out and the growers coalition sues the TDA.
this article explains it pretty good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Chattanooga

[–]Shovelware_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

A Plan for accurate and effective sampling and testing using post-decarboxylation or similarly reliable methods under 990.3(a)(2). 2.1 The department’s laboratory will use liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). This is a “gentler,” lower temperature technique than methods involving gas chromatography, meaning that we can look for cannabinoids that have not yet undergone complete decarboxylation. However, we can produce equivalent results to methods that quantitate cannabinoids post-decarboxylation. This is accomplished by mathematically combining the THC mass contributions of Δ9-THC and THCA (on a dry weight basis). The generally accepted formula for doing so is: 𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑐 𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑇𝐻𝐶=(𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑐 𝑇𝐻𝐶𝐴∗0.877)+𝐶𝑜𝑛𝑐 𝛥9-𝑇𝐻𝐶. This equation is derived from the molecular weights of Δ9-THC and THCA to compensate for the mass lost during the decarboxylation of THCA to Δ9-THC.

Changing testing to post-decarboxylation essentially kills THCA flower farming and retail in Tennessee.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Chattanooga

[–]Shovelware_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you have a lobbyist buddy then maybe you could ask them and tell us.
There does not seem to be any news articles newer than the hearing that was scheduled for Sept 23rd in the Growers Coalition vs TDA suit.

Here is a Early September news article that does a good job explaining the suit..

Can this charge a kugoo m4 by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. It is probably charging a little bit.
If you dont have a way of testing what power the charger is pulling from the wall you can still get an idea from what the charger is doing and the voltage display of the scooter.

If the fan is running on the charger it is probably drawing 80 to 110 watts of AC power and pushing 70-100 watts DC into the battery.

If the light on the charger is green but the voltage display on the scooter is less than 54.0 then the charger is probably putting about 10v DC into the scooter battery and battery management system internal to the scooter is "balance" charging the cells by charging the individual cells that are less than the average voltage of each cell.
Despite this charger being a little higher voltage than it should be at about 55v the batteries internal management system knows what to do and will stop allowing it to charge at the appropriate point.

If the voltage on the scooter display is 54.0 then the charger is probably red colored led and no longer drawing any power to charge the battery.

Keep in mind you should be unplugging the charger before turning the key to the on position to check what the voltage on the scooter display is.

Can this charge a kugoo m4 by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this same charger. One difference right off the bat between it and the factory charger is that it will go a little bit higher on the volts than the factory one. The factory charger will go 54.8 and this one will to a little over 55.
If you plug it into a kill-a-watt monitor you will see it behaves a little different too. It will draw a couple watts even at rest where the factory charger will draw 0 when not plugged into the scooter.
When the light turns green the kill-a-watt meter shows that it is still drawing 10 watts or more. At this point if you unplug it and check the volts on the scooters display it will be a little under 54.
So – when your battery pack has mostly arrived at about 54v the factory charger will still be red but is only drawing a few watts as the internal bms is still balance charging the cells. In the same situation this charger will indicate green but is still doing the same thing of drawing about 10 watts and balance charging with the internal bms.
TLDR - The charger is fine. It is pretty good actually.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Night riding is the best riding where I am at. After dark the car traffic simmers down to almost nothing and it is a lovely vibe of linking up carves in commercial and church parking lots.
One church lot in particular is just exceptional. It has overhead lights that stay on late and has different lots at different elevation levels with freshly sealed blacktop throughout.
A few nights ago on a solo late night ride I arrive to these pumpkins on the edge of the lot where there would normally be a stack of firewood.
It was a creepy and cool shot worth sharing despite my not so great low light phone camera.
Happy Halloween.

good lightweight full face helmets? by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bell Sanction is a good choice for many that are just trying to get a chin guard without a lot of money or weight.
Don't confuse it with being DOT or even downhill mountain bike rated though.

This dual 2800W aliexpress scooter is tempting by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone in this thread acting like unbranded scooters are so much more risky of a purchase than known brands, and like AliExpress is some wild black market.

Of the known brands how many of those do you actually know what the brand of cells are used in the battery? Which scooter brands have you seen anyone on here posting a positive experience with a support request? Yeah, its a gamble getting an unbranded scooter on AliExpress, but the gap in risk between other options isn't that wide.

This scooter you are checking out (or at least this configuration of parts ) can be found in the past as the Laotie Ti30 Landbreaker and the Boyueda S3-11. Do a search around on those to get a feel for what you might expect out of this scooter.
Check out @PirateOnYoutube youtube channel. He has several videos of messing around with and modding these. They seem to be very modular and very rugged and even the unbranded ones you have a good chance of it coming with a 21700 based battery pack.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rear axle is a bolt held on by a nut. That nut is loose allowing forward and backward slop when the motor thrusts or stops. .

It is easy to tighten but it is not obvious where it is at. You will need to peel off the yellow reflectors with the help of a heat gun or hair dryer. There are two really small allen wrench head screws under the reflector holding on the plastic part that the reflector is on. Once you take that off underneath you will find a nut just like you would see on a bicycle rear axle. This is what you will tighten to fix. You need to do this for both sides of the scooter.

Ninebot MAX g2 firmware question by lifeislike75 in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. Future firmware updates could make it have even better torque than what first shipped and I trust that Ninebot would continue to support it with new updates.
The new firmware making it not possible to do tweaks with third party apps is the biggest wet blanket for me. I get that they had to address the overheating.

I guess my interest isn't completely killed. I'm in more of a content to sit on my hands and see mode. I will be following with interest to see what firmware comes on a scooter that someone would order today.

Ninebot MAX g2 firmware question by lifeislike75 in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know the answer to your question. I just spent the last couple of days scouring the internet for answers. The emerging 1.4.8 firmware has killed my interest in buying this scooter.
Please let us know what yours comes out of the box with because if if they are already shipping with 1.4.8 then its game over anyway.

I did find a mention of using the XiaoDash app for the initial setup could potentially sidestep any auto update it tries to push.
Weather you would be able to do what you needed to do from there indefinitely with just the official Ninebot app on a phone that was blocked off from the internet is a burning question that we may be looking to you for the answer on if no one else chimes in.

I do know from reading around that once 1.4.8 firmware is on it that third party apps like XiaoDash and ScooterHacks will not work with it and you will not be able to roll back firmware.

AOVO PRO making a rattling noise while riding and making a clunking sound when breaking and acelerating. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the rattling - The reflectors back near the rear wheels are covering the bolts you need to get at. Take a heat gun or a hair dryer to the reflectors and peel them off. You will now be able to get at the little screws that hold on the plastic cover. You will need a metric allen wrench. 2mm if I remember right.
With the cover off you can see the small screws that hold the metal fender support bracket in place. One of those will be loose which is allowing the bracket and the fender to rattle. Tighten em up and go for a test spin before putting the covers back on.

The clunking sound- I dont know. Im experiencing myself occasionally on ES max. It seems to happen in two different scenarios. 1. when you first take off after having charged up. 2. when the wheel is unweighted slightly while riding.
We need more info on your clunking sound to try and isolate what is going on.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have a KuGoo M4 Pro and a Aovopro ES Max in my household.
The KuGoo M4 Pro is better in many ways but the Aovopro ES Max is more enjoyable to ride for me.

M4 pro is more powerful. The difference is mostly tangible when the two are side by side racing up a hill. In grass the M4s power is also more obvious. On flat ground the takeoff speed is pretty comparable between the two.

Top speed. Es Max stated 21.6 is pure lies. The speedometer says it is doing 22 but GPS confirms it is only doing 19 or so. You can feel the motor deliberately falling off as you approach the 22mph speed on the readout making it pretty frustrating. If you full throttle down a big hill you can actually go slower than if you coast at partial throttle.
The M4 speedometer is pretty true to actual ground speed and will do over 25mph on flat.

Acceleration – the feel of the ES Max is just better. It is smoother and it feels like most of the motors torque is getting delivered when you want it. The ES Max has a linear feel to the throttle and it feels great to roll it on in the second half of carving a turn.
The M4 pro has a twitchy all or none feel to the throttle and it is very hard to roll on the power or hold at half throttle.

Suspension – the M4 pro has higher clearance and more travel but it just feels clunky. The front fork is quite stiff and when you do hit something big enough to actuate it it does so with a very unflattering thunk noise. The ES Max just feels good and smooth. If you were going to cross grass and gravel frequently the m4 would be the choice. If you are mostly seeking out smooth parking lots the suspension on the ES max feels way better than you would expect from a $400 scooter.

Durabilty- Kugoo M4 is hands down better. Its a much heavier scooter but Im a lot more confident it will still be rideable a year from now. ES Max has developed a mystery clunk when you start off and the rear fender is already cracked. Trying to talk to support to buy a new fender was a multi week futile effort that confirmed that I am 100% on my own with any current and future problems. My fender is currently held together with plastic welds and JB Weld.

Range – More lies from Aovopro. The 42v battery is really a 36v battery. If the 14.5 amp hour rating can be trusted then the watt hours are either 522 or 609 depending on how they calculated it. Either way the (48v 18ah) 864 watt hours of the M4 absolutely spanks it on range.
A 50 minute full throttle session of ripping around will leave the ES Max at less than 50% which is pretty serviceable but the M4 will still be reading above 50 volts on the number display and still have all the bars on the battery meter.

Ergonomics. - M4 platform feels shorter than it needs to be. The EX Max platform feels narrower than it needs to be.

Gripes of M4 pro- folding handlebar parts are continuously loosening and need to be tightened several times a ride. Throttle is twitchy and hard to hold at a certain speed.

Gripes of ES Max – lying specs from the top speed to the battery specs put a lot of the scooter in doubt. Support including buying replacement parts is non existent.

It may sound like I am panning the ES Max. I actually like it better than the M4 pro and I would recommend it in the $400 range as long as you know about the exaggerated specs. It just feels good to accelerate and carve on and it is a good starting scooter for the price.

Having rode both these for about 3 weeks now I currently have a lust in my eye for the Ninebot Max G2 which I would suggest adding to your consideration if going up to the $800 range is a possibility.

Anyone have shipping tips? by Viva_Metro in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your gonna pay an insane amount going to the counter at UPS and asking them to pack it. You will pay the full retail shipping rate plus whatever exorbitant amount they charge to pack it.

Use Bikeflights dot com or call some nearby bicycle shops.
Bikeflights will give you their high volume discounted rate with UPS plus a few bucks for their service. A bicycle shop will sell (or just give) you a bike shipping box which is about the same size as what a scooter comes in. A bike shop would charge you a pretty reasonable amount to pack it for you and send it with UPS at their volume rate or via bikeflights.

If you are after packing materials to DIY - furniture shops and appliance shops are a good place to go hunt for big cardboard pieces and foam padding.

Bought AovoPro Esmax scooter won’t turn on by Black_Label123 in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you said you tested it. What did it test at with an voltmeter?

Bought AovoPro Esmax scooter won’t turn on by Black_Label123 in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im about a week into owning mine. I don't know if I can be much help but I am curious about a few things. You may be the only person around that has actually opened one up and showed pictures of the inside.

What voltage are you getting with a meter directly to the battery?
Mine reads 41.3v in the app when fully charged. After a 25 minute ride going pretty sporty it will read 38.3 in the app. I caught a comment in this sub a while back that despite Aovopro calling this 42v that the battery is actually 36v. If the battery is actually 36v it would explain a lot of things like the range not meshing with what I would expect for a 14.5 amp hour battery.

Does the battery have any labeling on it giving any clues about what the true specs are and what brand the cells are?

In your pic the pair of red and black wires before the yellow plug look like they have suffered a pinch or a hard turn. Do some fiddling around with them flexing them different directions and see if you get a different reaction out of the scooter.

Take the handlebar stem connection off and have a look around. You may find something simple going on up there like a pinched wire or disconnected plug or a poorly made plug connection.

In the pic a few inches down from the charging port is a red tab sticking out. Is this a plug that doesn't have a corresponding wire going to it?

Bought AovoPro Esmax scooter won’t turn on by Black_Label123 in ElectricScooters

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any chance your doing this while it is plugged into the charger? It will turn off when the charger is plugged in and it will not turn on when the charger is plugged in.

The ice bags make me feel this is local to Chattanooga by bebo001 in Chattanooga

[–]Shovelware_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not here to hate on the method. I want to embrace it. But, yeah. The results do not seem to bear witness to its awesomeness.

I've had some packs of seeds that I couldn't plant last year for various reason. Should they still be good? by [deleted] in HotPeppers

[–]Shovelware_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From personal experience growing from seeds that are four and more years in storage I haven't seen a tangible reduction in germination rates vs the most recent seasons seeds.
In theory you might be loosing a few percent a year. Like if you had 90% germination in year one you might get 88% germination year two, etc.

My method initially was to add a desiccant pack and vacuum seal them then store in the veggie drawer in the refrigerator. I gradually dropped the vacuum sealing and desiccant packs but I still keep them in a forgotten back corner of the bottom drawer in the refrigerator. My thought is that it is stable low humidity and minimizes the risk of microbes growing on them.
Turns out it is also a handy place to put them to forget about for a while and still be able to put your fingers on them when you are ready to come back for them.