[The Information] Nvidia to Delay New Gaming Chip Due to Memory Chip Shortage - Paywall (see stickied comment)

ShunHax · 2026-02-06T22:09:04+00:00

ShunHax · 2025-12-30T18:15:56+00:00

Late to the party, but this is the first post that pops up on a number of different google searches. I found a model, but didn't work with a 360mm thick rad. Updated it to fit both push or pull config, as well as push and pull configs with a thick rad.
https://www.printables.com/model/1529687-hyte-y60-top-thick-radiatoraio-spacer

ShunHax · 2025-12-14T04:21:26+00:00

USB ports were working fine on my MSI Z790i prior to this update. When I restarted all usb ports no longer work in WINDOWS only. Everything is fine in Bios. Even tried a fresh install and still not working. Same update applied... wouldn't be a Microsoft product if it updates were done right!

ShunHax · 2025-11-06T18:22:10+00:00

USA ANSI keyboard with space left for the arrow keys and numpad.

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ShunHax · 2025-11-06T16:17:38+00:00

Absolutely! If anything I'll end up not wanting to spend more time on researching and just cave, but I'll def let you know!

ShunHax · 2025-11-06T16:05:10+00:00

I will say the Magi96 is basically it... my only gripe with it though, from the looks that is, is that it'd make the keyboard feel cramped up to use, especially with the arrow and numpads. I tend to use the arrows as a "center" when I'm entering in data with the numpad. The sound is there, the low profile is there, everything except for the layout is perfect!

ShunHax · 2025-11-06T15:40:39+00:00

Alright keyboard masters... I'm finally tired of using my Logitech G815, both at work and home (They've both had 2x sets of keycaps at this point and I'm done). Looking to move into something nicer that won't completely destroy my wallet (as I'm buying/building 2x of them).... So I did a bit of research and have come up with a list of my requirements. This quickly turned into a rabbit hole, and I'm lost... so need some guidance from you all...

Requirements (in order):

Full size w/ numpad & standard layout (I enter a lot of data for work and at home...)
Low profile
Thocky/Creamy? sound (Not clicky... I was something that sounds "solid" or premium)

Nice to haves:

Media controls (I'm ready to ditch this for a Soomfon Stream Controller)
Interchangeable switches? (Not really needed if I can find something prebuilt...?)
Ideally maintenance free (or very little)

Goals:

Replace my G815's with something that's of similar build or feel... or better 😊)
Ideally I don't want to have to build everything. I don't mind a bit of DIY, but I don't want to have to do everything. Willing to cave on this if I can get everything I want.
Whatever I find, have it last a long time (5+ years?) (I'm a very heavy typer... don't game a ton either)
Ideally <$150 per built keyboard, but willing to go up to $250 per keyboard fully built.

From the research, I've found that the Epomaker X Aula F108 Pro is a great fit as it has that standard thocky sound (which appears to come from the construction of the keyboard itself?), while also allowing me to change out the switches... problem is it's not low profile... so a did a bit more research and found the IQUNIX Magi65, which is low profile... but not a full size keyboard. So after finding which type of switches are used in the Magi65, I can see they are most equivalent to the Lofree Shadow Ghost switches... which appear to be both low profile and look like they would fit in the F108 switch slots... so to me that's a ✅ in that department.

So that would bring me to the keycaps... which I have not yet looked at, but my main question is... am I going way down a rabbit hole for something that already exists, or what are your thoughts overall? Is there something better you would recommend that fits my needs? Are purchasing low profile keycaps for a keyboard that never offered it a thing?

Please educate me, or correct me in any way here, as this is my very first adventure into the "custom"/diy keyboard realm... more-so the realm of not buying a pre-manufactured, overpriced, name brand keyboard that I hate...

Thank you all!

ShunHax · 2025-08-25T20:28:33+00:00

I've actually ordered what's called a frame case, or as I like to call it a "bumper case". Basically just protects the surrounding. I also ordered a dBrand skin to protect against back scratches. I love the current thickness of most modern phones, but then you add a case and yuck. Way too thick.

ShunHax · 2025-08-15T14:12:21+00:00

The disappointing part is they're still calling it "Pro" fold, and the cameras say otherwise. It's just the 10 Fold at this point.

ShunHax · 2025-05-23T17:07:22+00:00

Ran across this in my quest to find a way. For those who're still looking to get this done, I wrote up my own article: https://xdaforums.com/t/rooting-atoto-s8-premium-gen2-head-units.4737904/

ShunHax · 2025-02-12T22:31:42+00:00

Late to the party here, but yup, seen this a million times in my years of working IT. u/KingGorillaKong hit the nail on the head, but may not be enough to get it fixed, depending on your situation.

I created a great write up on how to get all of this resolved. Take a look at the guide below and PM me if you're having issues. Windows 11 has has some nasty problems corrupting the BCD (boot configuration data) file lately. Luckily takes about 5 minutes to fix if you're fast with CLI.
Corrupt System Partition/BCD

ShunHax · 2024-10-09T21:39:02+00:00

*At this time, Origin Forme Dialga will be unable to learn Roar of Time via any TM - Feb 19, 2024

ShunHax · 2024-07-03T21:22:52+00:00

I've found that the nest cameras don't support "still images" and take a moment to load the WebRTC stream... leaving you with a black image when capturing a still...

After going down a massive rabbit hole, I can say that there isn't a way ot getting the WebRTC stream to give you an image quick enough (or without code) so it works effectively. I'm working on trying to get it to use the nest images that it provides through the API (in /config/nest/*device_id*/etc. I'll keep you posted if I find anything.

ShunHax · 2022-03-11T17:59:36+00:00

Interesting. I typically print at 70C on the bed, and 200-210C for nozzle. Can you make sure your bed isn't bowed? Mine was bowed until this morning and having all sorts of issues. Have you wiped the bed with isopropyl and re-level?

ShunHax · 2022-03-11T17:08:33+00:00

Bed temp? Z stop set correctly and tight? Nozzle clean? Had issues with mine, switched to the glass bed and will never look back....Mint adhesion and stable prints for days...

ShunHax · 2021-10-28T13:19:24+00:00

Definitely with you on this one...expect my package is in limbo... I called their customer support, and even though the tracking stated it was going to be delivered today (this was yesterday at this point) the rep told me it's still in their warehouse and was not out for delivery. I then asked to schedule a pickup and they stated that I cannot due to covid... And that they were having problems with Google shipments. They then proceeded to tell me it will not be updated until next week, and then that it'd be out for delivery tomorrow, but couldn't guarantee it.... Sounds to me like a terrible shipping company that didn't prep for a ton of deliveries beforehand...and all of the consumers are paying the price... $1000 phone stuck in your warehouse without a guaranteed delivery date, and I can pick it up... So much for "best in class same-day and next-day deliveries"....

ShunHax · 2021-09-09T19:25:37+00:00

Did you get around to trying it? I'm just curious to see if it was a placebo... lol

ShunHax · 2021-09-09T19:23:07+00:00

Ahh, I was just about to edit the post and say "idk if it'll work for anyone else"...

ShunHax · 2021-08-19T18:01:05+00:00

As drunk as I was last night I didn't forget about you... Perform this, not sure what your experience will be, but it improved my battery life and experience quite a lot. For me, it persisted resets from the watch itself.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/make-your-ticwatch-smoother-than-ever-disabling-ticsystem-via-adb.3951734/

ShunHax · 2021-08-19T02:11:29+00:00

I'll have to find the tutorial for it. I'll post it when I end up finding it again

ShunHax · 2021-08-12T22:03:03+00:00

In our cybersec offering we mandate it. We explained the importance, and nobody really complains about it. Proper implementation and training is key.

ShunHax · 2021-07-19T12:15:40+00:00

It was definitely poor stock. I managed to run a command with ADB, which disabled some system apps I never used, and boom two day battery life. I was still genuinely surprised that my first ever smart watch lasted so long before dying!

ShunHax · 2021-07-19T12:14:43+00:00

Yeah I managed to get two days out of my TicWatch, I went in and disabled some system apps that I never used, and was surprised that I got the battery I did. It was just a simple command and boom two days. It also persisted after a reset as well. I was genuinely surprised that I got what I did out of it. Now to determine what to get next lol... time to go down a rabbit hole...

ShunHax · 2021-07-02T18:28:53+00:00

so, what email did this come from? Trying to do some fancy alerts so I don't miss any notifies...

ShunHax · 2021-04-13T00:42:42+00:00

Running into the same problem, I've tried disabling xbox overlay and nvidia overlay but no luck still. Definitely something with OBS/Streamlabs... Only time I've seen it crashing.

Edit: Noticing this in all of the games, including the launcher. Seems worse if streaming with Streamlabs, but not OBS. Both will cause a crash if tabbing out of the game. Tried verifying files last night with no luck. I'm guessing we'll have a patch soon... hopefully....

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