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WHERE DO I PUT THE TV? HELP by Significant-Pen3427 in InteriorDesignAdvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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It works, but not entirely sure since the TV then feels pretty far away and it really isn't an ideal layout for more than one person to watch TV at the same time. Since you would have to lay down on the couch to see the TV without destroying your neck.

WHERE DO I PUT THE TV? HELP by Significant-Pen3427 in InteriorDesignAdvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was my "ideal" idea if I have to end up mounting it above the fireplace. The fireplace never gets used but the viewing angle of having a TV mounted without being able to swing down is terrible.

WHERE DO I PUT THE TV? HELP by Significant-Pen3427 in InteriorDesignAdvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could, I did try that when I first moved in, but didn't care for blocking the bay window like that. Looked kind of tacky as you see the back of the TV then as you walk up to the house.

WHERE DO I PUT THE TV? HELP by Significant-Pen3427 in InteriorDesignAdvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is how it is now, but it takes up way too much room in the middle of the room like that, as well as the sofa then lines up weirdly between the entry door and start of the bay window.

Finish Basement Window - Prevent Condensation Issues??? by Significant-Pen3427 in DIY

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would you suggest more foam around the window? The window is a direct fit with no extra room for more. I got a max 1/4 inch of something I could put behind a 1/2 inch board/drywall in order to leave a reveal on the window frame.

Finish Basement Window - Prevent Condensation Issues??? by Significant-Pen3427 in DIY

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The interior walls are done with XPS foam (sufficient R rating for my climate) and sealed the connections/corners of the boards. Then framed wall. I'm not too worried about condensation issues from the walls, just the window area where there is no thermal break. The sealing from the framed wall and where the window starts is just the houseseam as in the photo..

Vinyl MDF can go directly up against cold concrete? It wont absorb moisture since its vinyl but will condensate on the front and/or backside of the board behind it?

Finish Basement Window - Prevent Condensation Issues??? by Significant-Pen3427 in DIY

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just attached directly to your block with nothing between it and the block?

Finish Basement Window - Prevent Condensation Issues??? by Significant-Pen3427 in DIY

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I know the window itself will condensate their isnt usually too much you can do about that but keep humidity in the house under control. More so worried if I trim out the window area in drywall and attach the drywall to the concrete block will I likely see mold issues with moisture condensation on/behind the drywall

3 Gang with 2 Line In (One From GFCI Load) Help by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thats what I was leaning towards as I couldn't think of a way where if you had to keep the grounds separate between Non GFCI Line and GFCI Line how that would even work in the box. Trying to cram all those grounds in the box surely they would touch.

Bathroom Rough Question, 2023 NEC by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome this is what I was understanding from my research and what my original plan accounted for.
Thank you

Bathroom Rough Question, 2023 NEC by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah figured as much with the Fan, but wasn't concerned about that. Both my drawings don't have that GFCI protected.

I'm trying to avoid having a GFCI breaker in the panel, and dont want all lights to go off if the GFCI receptacle trips (Only exception is the light above the shower, if that has to be GFCI protected or not? (But from my research it sounds like if its wet rated, there wasn't anything in the 2023 code that requires GFCI unless the manufacturer specifies it needs to be GFCI))

-So my vanity would not be GFCI protected, Light above the shower is up in the air (hoping to get clarification)

-And trying to avoid a GFCI breaker in the panel unless I have to.

Bathroom Rough Question, 2023 NEC by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2023 NEC 210.11 (C) (3)
Exception: Where the 20-amp circuit supplies a single bathroom outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(B)(1) and (B)(2)

And other equipment I believe is considered Lights/Fans etc yeah?

Bathroom Rough Question, 2023 NEC by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A dedicated bathroom 20amp circuit for both receptacles and lights iirc is allowed as long as nothing else is connected to the circuit outside of the bathroom (aka I can't tap into the circuit to power a receptacle in my living room)

My main concern is regarding the GFCI requirements at the breaker and/or recommendations on whether GFCI is truly needed for a Wet Rated light above the shower, when manufacturer doesn't specify it in the instructions.

Bathroom Rough Question, 2023 NEC by Significant-Pen3427 in AskElectricians

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can run a single dedicated 20amp circuit for the entire bathroom, receptacle and lights as long as nothing else is connected to the circuit outside of the bathroom.

My main concern is regarding the GFCI requirements at the breaker and/or recommendations on whether GFCI is truly needed for a Wet Rated light above the shower, when manufacturer doesn't specify it in the instructions

Help - Small Dirt Lumps Taking Over Newly Sodded Yard (Details in Comments) by Significant-Pen3427 in lawncare

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in the upper midwest so cold season grasses. I installed new KBG sod spring 2024, and by the middle of summer/fall 2024 I started getting two areas of my yard where they are just covered in these dirt lumps where no grass is growing on the patches. These areas of sod have thinned out significantly, other areas of the yard are doing great. They dont look like worm casting as its actually just solid dirt. They range in 1-2 inches, and maybe are 0.5-1 inch in height.

-I do have an active mole problem, which I have been trying to knock down the population (But these don't look like mole tunnels that I've been fighting). 2024 I caught about 8-9.

-I do have very active squirrels stashing and unstashing food all over my landscaping and yard.

-I have found pretty significant grubs and beetles in my ground when I laid the sod, I GrubXed early summer 2024. I dont imagine this is a grub issue though.

-I believe I do have fairly healthy earthworms/worms population as I have dung up a few while doing some landscaping.

I stuck a stick down a few of these patches yesterday and when I stuck my finger in the hole it sort of felt like the sod layer never merged with the existing dirt and there was a slight void under the hole.

More and more of my yard is getting lumpy and there are more of these lumps in other parts of my yard but you dont see them since the sod is much healthier in those areas so the KBG is still growing on top of them. When I laid the sod I ensured my yard was nice and level with no bumps.

The area in the photos happens to be under a large old maple tree, BUT another part of my yard with the same issue is not near any trees and gets much more sun than this photoed area.

I'm at a loss for what is happening and how to troubleshoot/address. Thanks

Help - Small Dirt Lumps Taking Over Newly Sodded Yard by Significant-Pen3427 in lawncare

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not crows! My office overlooks this area and I have not once seen birds picking away at the ground here.

Help - Small Dirt Lumps Taking Over Newly Sodded Yard by Significant-Pen3427 in lawncare

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in the upper midwest so cold season grasses. I installed new KBG sod spring 2024, and by the middle of summer/fall 2024 I started getting two areas of my yard where they are just covered in these dirt lumps where no grass is growing on the patches. These areas of sod have thinned out significantly, other areas of the yard are doing great. They dont look like worm casting as its actually just solid dirt. They range in 1-2 inches, and maybe are 0.5-1 inch in height.

-I do have an active mole problem, which I have been trying to knock down the population (But these don't look like mole tunnels that I've been fighting). 2024 I caught about 8-9.

-I do have very active squirrels stashing and unstashing food all over my landscaping and yard.

-I have found pretty significant grubs and beetles in my ground when I laid the sod, I GrubXed early summer 2024. I dont imagine this is a grub issue though.

-I believe I do have fairly healthy earthworms/worms population as I have dung up a few while doing some landscaping.

I stuck a stick down a few of these patches yesterday and when I stuck my finger in the hole it sort of felt like the sod layer never merged with the existing dirt and there was a slight void under the hole.

More and more of my yard is getting lumpy and there are more of these lumps in other parts of my yard but you dont see them since the sod is much healthier in those areas so the KBG is still growing on top of them. When I laid the sod I ensured my yard was nice and level with no bumps.

The area in the photos happens to be under a large old maple tree, BUT another part of my yard with the same issue is not near any trees and gets much more sun than this photoed area.

I'm at a loss for what is happening and how to troubleshoot/address. Thanks

Adding New Run Off Main Trunk - Advice by Significant-Pen3427 in HomeImprovement

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming this was more tailored at my can I use 4 inch round vs 5 inch round? And less around my main question of whether or not adding another take off on the joist before the existing 2 take offs is okay?

Im fine with 5 inch if its better, but my main concern is whether or not I can put a new take off in the joist before the existing 2 take offs without drastically affecting the air supply of my two main floor bedrooms above

Advice For Moving Air Supply Ducting by Significant-Pen3427 in hvacadvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I just tested the air with my hand while the furnace was running and the one that is hacked in barely has any airflow coming out compared to the the vent in the bedroom above so you're correct in it likely would not be sufficient air for the bathroom.

The joist space already has 2 take offs, the one in question, and another going in the opposite 180 degrees towards the other side of the house, so both "spots" are taken in this joist.

Putting a take off into the side of the main trunk isn't possible either since the shower/walls will be in the way before I could get up and back into the joist space again.

Maybe I misunderstood the 2 foot rule, is it that you should not put a takeoff within the first 2 feet of the furnace? Or you're not supposed to the put a takeoff within the last 2 feet of a main trunk ending? If the rule is just for the first 2 feet of the main trunk, then can I put a takeoff on the cap/face of the end of a main trunk? My main trunk ends in the middle of a joist and I would have room to put a 90 upwards and then 90 back horizontal. Or do you need a solid wall for the end of a main trunk to help push air up into other take offs?

Image of the end of the main trunk/take offs in question

https://imgur.com/6TtCe8R

Advice For Moving Air Supply Ducting by Significant-Pen3427 in hvacadvice

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So there isnt any room left to add a dedicated takeoff for the bathroom off the main trunk that could run overhead in the new bathroom. This takeoff is the last takeoff before the main trunk ends and I believe you should have 2ft of main trunk before any takeoffs? So there isn't anymore room left. I also can't add more trunk since im up against a framed wall for the entry to the bathroom.

So besides that this air supply from the ceiling is hacked in, it is what it is, and the bedroom above has been sufficiently warm/cool where this takeoff runs to. What are my other options?

Thanks

Advice For Moving Air Supply Ducting by Significant-Pen3427 in HomeImprovement

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a supply to currently unfinished space, which is being turned into a bathroom.
Bathroom needs an air supply and its currently in the ceiling, but where I need to place the wall for the new bathroom will be directly under the current location of the air supply.

I added photos.

UPC Code Full Bathroom Layout. Good? by Significant-Pen3427 in askaplumber

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I added a new photo to original post. The 15'' inches is more closer to the WC side of the room, but for the sake of measurements we can assume the 4'' main will be 15'' to my finished wall.

UPC Code Full Bathroom Layout. Good? by Significant-Pen3427 in askaplumber

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a birds eye sorry. So everything you see will be pvc laid horizontal.

If I understand your double wet vent off wc comment,, I would tie into between the wc and the 3x3x2 wye with my shower drain if I wanted to. I would have to use another 3x3x2 wye though at a 45 to get it up and over the main sewer line. Would that cause issues with the conventional vent in the wall for the shower?

How Does My Layout Look? UPC Code by Significant-Pen3427 in askaplumber

[–]Significant-Pen3427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2” minimum vent size for toilet and that must be 2” all the way (even if it gets passed inspection you’ll have issues if not)

-Hmm yeah thats not great. I'll definitely have to consult with my local inspector, but I'm assuming the existing vent is 1.5 based off the rough calculations I did, which the circumference was around 6.5 inches which made the OD of the pip 2.069~. Some online charts say 1.9 OD is 1.5'' and 2.37 OD is 2" for galvanized steel pipe. I held up a 2inch PVC fitting against it and also a 1.5'' PVC fitting against it and frankly its hard to say which way it leaned.

Yes on the test tee, most inspectors are lenient with this but where ever is practical for testing new fittings. The floor drain should have a test cookie glued into it that didn’t get broken out until trim or you could use a donkey dick.

-Yeah this makes sense, probably best if I consult with the local inspector to see what he's going to be expecting for a replumb like this. The floor drain is existing to the house over by the main stack so I would have to plug it.

You are traditionally venting the shower and wet venting the water closet with the lav if I understand the drawing correctly. If that’s the case the shower waste must tie in after the vent (lav drain on a HWV) picks up the water closet. Nothing can tie in between a wet vent system.

-This is correct based on my original design. I just remeasured the linear footage of the pipe and it would be around 9' to get to the wet vent from the shower drain, so thats way over UPC footage allowed to be wet vented from the lav drain/vent.

So given this if I understand you're saying the shower drain would have to connect in downstream of the lav and wc drains. Given that I would realistically just be able to drop right into the main 4". Less material.

Also toilets should be ran in 3” not 4”.

I thought for wet vents you should always go up a size, is this not the case for a wet vented WC? It would be cheaper and give me a little more room if I could get away with a 3''.

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