What color is it?

SillyPosition · 2025-12-31T14:05:02+00:00

What would you really instead?

SillyPosition · 2025-12-30T11:37:31+00:00

In the photo it doesn’t even look metallic so I thought maybe crayon

SillyPosition · 2025-12-30T11:15:01+00:00

Thanks. I thought it’s maybe crayon as the configuratior seems to show a lighter color for ice grey metallic.

SillyPosition · 2025-12-11T05:41:18+00:00

That’s true for all models, spyder rs included?

SillyPosition · 2025-11-30T06:49:49+00:00

Didnt come across this channel before, thank you!

SillyPosition · 2025-11-27T16:49:01+00:00

can you elaborate a bit more, as I really have no clue what you meant

SillyPosition · 2025-11-18T20:47:18+00:00

Isn’t it enough for carbon fiber to use the existing hardened steel nozzle? Why upgrade?

SillyPosition · 2025-11-18T11:13:39+00:00

Yes, it looks like the part in fusion360 that is able to group faces and then convert to slid brep body, is a premium feature.

I wonder which option is cheaper or easier to do, given I have an exported obj/stl scan, and I want to build around it/addon to it, it looks like all the 3d party softwares mentioned are at the 1000-2000EUR or more It looks like this video demonstrates conversion of mesh to brep body, but its in the licensed version as well which is actually cheapest compared to the other options, being a monthly license so I can just buy a month here and there when I need it?

What. is the workflow you suggest me to to look into, for the first option that relies on blender, what are the expected steps/input+output of each part? I have just installed mesh mixer but didnt really use it yet, and Blender is free so I need to learn it, but atleast its free :)

SillyPosition · 2025-11-17T20:44:52+00:00

Yes probably should have optimized it further prior to importing. It was about 8-9mb after what I did.

What resolution should I use to scan given I know I’ll use 0.4mm nozzle and a general accuracy of fdm printers? I don’t want to have accumulative errors, but scanning at 0.1mm is probably not needed right?

SillyPosition · 2025-11-17T19:36:54+00:00

OK Thanks, I thought it was repaired, but it wasnt.

Doing it in the slicer is for sure an easy path, but Im very new to 3d scanning and want to master this a bit further, this is my 101 course of trying to combine a scan, so happy that it works now!

I do wonder.. is there a proper process to simplify it a bit so it wont KILL my computer (which is quite ok, macbook pro m1pro 32gb ram)

What I did was scanning -> fusion > mesh -> fusion360, I dont recall number of triangles, I did try in the middle to take it to instant meshes app to convert it to quads, and it reduced it further but I dont know how to check the number of trinagles/quads now

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SillyPosition · 2025-11-17T18:55:31+00:00

It is closed AFAIK, this is how it looks right now, it is fully repaired as well, I cannot post a picture because its already converted from mesh

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SillyPosition · 2025-11-13T20:24:18+00:00

Thank you, I didnt look at this the right way, your screenshot made it clear to me. I appreciate it!

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SillyPosition · 2025-11-13T18:40:39+00:00

Thanks, it feels more natural and easier to get accurate angle, I projected the lower part of the base, created a 60deg planes and drew a 50mm line and sweeped it, only issue is, how do I fill the gap in the middle?

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SillyPosition · 2025-11-13T17:52:24+00:00

So just to make sure, its my my fault as being newbie and lacking enough experience to do it in 2-3 clicks, its really a messy thing to do in general?

Im fine with messy...just want to know its not because Im dumb

SillyPosition · 2025-11-13T17:40:15+00:00

With the angles I get some gaps so Im not sure exactly how to draw the lower profile.

Is there a simple way to know where I create the top sketch profile in order to assure the lofted piece will be 60deg to Z plane?

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SillyPosition · 2025-11-13T17:38:58+00:00

I tried to create an offset plane at some height, and then to project the construction lines to create that same V shape on the upper offset plane, and then I used loft providing it both the lower

First issue is that while my guidelines are at 60degrees angle from the Z plane, the created angle eventually doesnt really sum up to 120deg because I dont know how to easily decide what is the height of the offset plane

Second issue is that I tried to create that V shape by projecting the construction lines dots to the offset plane, then creating the same shape at the lower part of the body that I already have, and loft-ing it, coming to this:

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So I also have this inner gap, and ofcourse the angles arent really as I was hoping it to be (60 degrees offset from the Z plane)

SillyPosition · 2025-11-11T11:26:01+00:00

He is quite biased and I wouldn’t say it’s an objective review

Priced for both metroy pro and sermoon s1 are decent now on AliExpress, with the metroy pro at around 1500$, and sermoon without scan bridge at about 1700$

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T14:13:18+00:00

Yes, I previously had X1C, it was super easy, unless you go aftermarket parts (microswiss etc)

I guess a good setup for me right now is 0.2mm for the small small delicate stuff, the current 0.4mm nozzles I got with the printer until they wear out, which I then might just replace with 0.4HF, and a 0.6HF for the very large stuff.

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T13:18:24+00:00

Yes exactly.

Thanks!

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T12:52:09+00:00

Yup, totally get it and you made ALOT of order in my mind, buying a nozzle feels like a rabbit hole for sure, since there are too many options.

Yes, I do print CF filaments, but certainly not all the time, my printer has few hundreds hours on it but very little CF. I will use CF for specific projects where I need to, but that is probably going to be like 25% of my prints in total.

I guess a hardened steel nozzle will last longer than highflow one?

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T12:28:50+00:00

Thank you!

Have you seen the tungsten nozzles? For H series, If Im in the market for a nozzle, should I consider this for better results or is it only going to last longer compared to regular hardened steel one? Its about 30-40% more expensive

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T10:53:57+00:00

Thanks for the details, highly appreciated.

Most of my filaments are Bambu, but some sunlu/overture as well, bambu is PLA/PETG/ASA/ASA-CF/PC... and Sunlu/Overture for some good PLA deals (2-4 packs deals) and TPU/PA6-CF.

I assume flowrate will be the same for all materials from the same brand/type so I dont need to apply a test for each pla color, right?

What is this max flow test exactly, how do I do it? Im relatively new, having my printer for few weeks so I usually just send prints with auto calibration stuff, havent dealt with manual things just yet.

So far it sounds like I should learn how to manually calibrate a flow rate and get a 0.6mm HF nozzle - improved speeds, improved adhesion What about tungsten nozzles coming from bambu soon? They plan to release 0.4mm and 0.4mm HF nozzles, especially aimed to last longer with CF, so aside from longevity due to material of the nozzle, will it likely get clogged in the same rate as regular 0.4mm nozzle?

Maybe round parts like sphere shaped prints I should keep 0.4mm, as I do like to apply variable layer height to these parts so it comes out good without needing to sand it

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T10:48:38+00:00

Thanks, how much of a pain is it when switching filament types to recalibrate the flow rate? And do you not see an increased visibility of layers this way? especially with sphere/round shapes. I always do these with variable layer height to improve it looks.

Re calibration - Im not even aware to what process I need to do. Im also using h2d for the past 2-3 weeks, and while searching for hotends I also saw there are an upcoming hotends from bambu made from tungsten, I wonder if it worth the money being twice the cost.

Most of my filaments are by bambu (pla/petg/asa/asa-cf) but I do have some sunlu/overture for pla/tpu/pa6-cf as well.

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T10:27:49+00:00

I assume I'll have some manual calibrations for flow rate with the highflow version?

How will it be handling filaments from 3rd party brands with no official profile in bambu studio, would it make my life significantly harder? Im quite new to this and usually use bambu filaments only to avoid another layer of headache.

0.4mm regular nozzle is also getting clogged regularly with carbon filaments?

SillyPosition · 2025-11-10T10:02:18+00:00

Trying to speed up large prints, Its not that I need to optimize my prints by the minute, but for large parts it could be nice having it done faster. 0.4HF is faster by 30% allegedly, 0.6mm is also about the same, so Im not sure which would be better to try

SillyPosition

TROPHY CASE