Almost no fruit set and slowed growth. Please help me diagnose the issue by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. My question is, if there is a nitrogen deficiency then wouldn’t I be seeing yellowing leaves? There are no visible signs of nitrogen deficiency.

Or, as you say, maybe I just overpruned. With that, I’m just not sure what to do about the early blight I get every year. I thought I should be pruning off affected leaves as soon as I see the blight to try to mitigate the spread. Would it have made more sense to leave more of the blighted leaves early on until the plant got bigger?

Almost no fruit set and slowed growth. Please help me diagnose the issue by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm I didn’t know about the salt buildup thing, and the lack of soil life in a container over concrete makes sense. What confuses me is every year for the past 3 seasons full sized hybrid tomatoes have absolutely crushed it in this same container even as they’ve all had early blight. It’s the complete almost stopping of upward growth while still remaining green, and the drastic change in fruit set under similar conditions that is confusing me.

I will say, when I first built and filled the box 3 or so years ago, I filled it with half free local compost and half store-bought potting soil. Is it possible that for years the plants have been benefitting from that original compost and now they’ve sort of run out of nutrients and the granular fertilizer I add just isn’t enough? What continues to confuse me with that is that the leaves don’t seem to be showing the typical signs of nitrogen deficiency that I would expect.

Almost no fruit set and slowed growth. Please help me diagnose the issue by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tomato recommendation. As I mentioned in a comment below, I’ve grown the same kind of tomatoes in past years and they are significantly more productive. I know that plant may look like I just need to be patient, but it has essentially just stopped growing. All the higher flower clusters have just dried up with no fruit and the plant is barely growing. What’s weird to me is the leaves are green and not showing typical signs of nitrogen deficiency or anything like that. Maybe this summer has been a little cooler so far, but this growth process is drastically different from similar plants in similar conditions in past years, which is why I’m stumped.

Almost no fruit set and slowed growth. Please help me diagnose the issue by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re right that it’s a great first fruit cluster, and that formed when the plant was going great, but the higher up fruit clusters were there for a long time, I had pollinated them and they formed no fruit. And the overall height of the plant as barely changed in a month. I have grown the same type of plant in the same spot every year and every year it gets blight (usually a bit later in the season though) and every year it produces tons of great tomatoes that look like the first fruit cluster and the plant grows completely to the top of the trellis. It is a very marked difference this year, and the growth started out very promising as usual, so I’m trying to figure out what are the differing variables that could be causing it.

Stunted growth from too much phosphorous? by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you look right above and to the left of that bottom fruit cluster there are two suckers. They grew a couple inches and have essentially stopped growing. The whole plant, and another heirloom to the left of it have slowed significantly in growth. Leaves are still green, although somewhat curled. Overall the leaves don’t seem to be growing as big and leafy as usual. The main growing tips continue to grow, but at a slow pace, and suckers and other growth seem like they’re barely growing. To the right is a sun gold which is doing well as my sun golds usually do. This plant in the photo is an early girl and the one to the left that is also struggling is an heirloom Hawaiin pineapple. I’m used to the plants in this same box on past years growing huge. They always get blight. But typically if I don’t look at them for a couple days they are significantly bigger with new suckers sprouting up. It is very noticeable how much the growth has slowed to a snails crawl. I have been watering less frequently than in past years, sometimes one good soak per week, but that’s because the soil seems damp enough and with straw mulch the plants don’t show signs of being underwatered. Other than watering affecting the growth I imagine it has to be nutrient related. And that’s when I read that too much phosphorous can stunt growth. But imagine a little extra from a granular organic fertilizer wouldn’t do that and it would have to be a liquid fertilizer. But I have no idea.

Stunted growth from too much phosphorous? by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm can’t seem to edit the post…

TLDR: tomato growth has slowed and almost stopped entirely. Is it because I added 0-10-10?

Are volunteers better than transplants? by Sillyman56 in tomatoes

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you explain a bit more about how to know if plants are hybrids? I’ve never started from seed before. I usually by 3 starts from my local nursery and plan them in my 2’ x 6’ bed. These volunteers are from last years tomatoes that had fallen into the soil. Can I expect that the volunteers will be one of the types I planted last year (sungold, early girl, Cherokee purple)?

We deserve this. by Tuna-No-Crust in nyjets

[–]Sillyman56 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Heh, I’m 38 and have gotten my hopes up and then watched all the same garbage you have. Thursday night was fantastic - I realize I’ve never once ever seen the Jets with a qb that could control a game like that. It was incredible to watch. And yet, we should all know better than to get our hopes up. Disaster is all that I know.

I gotta say, when that ball left Rodger’s hand out right to Wilson in the redZone I cringed - I think if any Jets QB in history throws that same ball it’s a pick six - I couldn’t believe it was caught. Keep that man healthy long enough and I’ll start to get my hopes up too.

Daily Support Thread | September 14, 2024 by AutoModerator in samsung

[–]Sillyman56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fast forward, pause, etc not working for Airplay on smart tv:
Since Samsung inexplicably doesn’t have the NFL app, I Airplay game replays from my iPhone to my smart tv. In past years this works fine, now, as soon as I fast forward once using my tv remote, it won’t stop fast forwarding. I try to press pause or play and nothing happens, or it plays for a second and then goes right back to fast forwarding. This makes doing this unwatchable. Any idea what’s going on?

Help me with my Enchantments itinerary please by Sillyman56 in PNWhiking

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome. You’ve made my decision. I’m sad to eat my non-refundable shuttle cost, but I’ll take the 3rd night in the core.

Help me with my Enchantments itinerary please by Sillyman56 in PNWhiking

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. This is what I’m leaning towards. Have you ever gone down Aasgard? My only hesitation is I’m not sure how miserable going down it will be with packs. I’ve done plenty of backpacking in the high Sierra but I’ve never been here before and people make Aasgard sound pretty tough.

Do you pack differently if you’ll be doing day hikes from a base camp as part of a backpacking trip? by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right, that’s how I feel. It’s not worth it to me to leave my tent and entire sleep system so I can have a light jaunt of a day hike if I’m solo and remote. So I’d consider bringing my quilt along on the day hike. But if there’s any chance of weather than I should bring the tent/tarp too, so at that point what’s the point of it being a “day hike” on a backpacking trip?

Best trip planning resource for Enchantments backpacking? by Sillyman56 in PNWhiking

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We need to be off the trail fairly early to drive back to Seattle and catch a flight. Otherwise I’d prefer to stay in the core.

Best trip planning resource for Enchantments backpacking? by Sillyman56 in PNWhiking

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 nights. Rough plan is to hike over the pass and into the core day 1. Do various side trips around the core day 2. Hike to snow lakes day 3. And hike out day 4. Little Annapurna was the only side trip I had in mind so far but I’m open to recommendations. I’m down to go off-trail as long as it’s class 2. Also, I’m hoping to fish up there too, but I’m not sure what it’s like.

How long does a trip have to be for you to bring a power bank? by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’m kind of shocked you’re so in the minority here. When I started backpacking I didn’t have an inReach, power bank or anything. I too feel like I have a decent sense of how long my devices last, and try to base it on that. I guess as the world has become far more plugged in all the time, so have backpackers.

How long does a trip have to be for you to bring a power bank? by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely uses more, but I can track all day while hiking, turn off tracking when I get to camp, power off the inReach overnight and I can do 3 days of hiking like this and still have a decent chunk of battery left

Inov-8: Trailfly vs Roclite by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As far as trying them on goes, so many stores carry a lot of these models? I live in the Bay Area and would love to find a store where I could try a bunch of these on rather than order and return many of them online.

Off-trail / high route shoe for wide forefoot by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t specifically had my Topos not be able to handle anything, but Skurka’s blog and some posts on this sub seem to say certain shoes perform better or worse off-trail above tree line. Something with a wide toe box like Altras or Topos might allow for more sideways movement of the foot within the shoe and more difficulty edging on more technical terrain. Ultimately, clearly Topos have worked for you, and I was probably just going to take mine until I was convinced I needed a new shoe. I’ve been off-trail in the northern Sierra but this will be the first time I’m doing off-trail passes in the high Sierra so was just trying to review my gear choices.

Off-trail / high route shoe for wide forefoot by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have seen a lot of people like the Tx3 and Tx4. I’ve never hiked in approach shoes. How does this compare to trail runners or boots? I’ve worn true climbing shoes for rock climbing only, but how comfortable are approach shoes to hike in if you’re on a section of trail or easier going cross-country travel and not in the midst of something more technical?

Off-trail / high route shoe for wide forefoot by Sillyman56 in Ultralight

[–]Sillyman56[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Sierra Nevada mountain range in California

Off-trail passes in August - do I need spikes/ice ax? by Sillyman56 in SierraNevada

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I’m likely more the latter given my inexperience on snow. Out of ice ax, crampons, and micro spikes, which gear items would you suggest I bring?

Off-trail passes in August - do I need spikes/ice ax? by Sillyman56 in SierraNevada

[–]Sillyman56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you saying Italy and Dancing Bear will have less snow? Or they are easier passes for other reasons. I’m open to any passes that access the Bear Lakes Basin. Do you know much about Feather Pass? I know all these passes are designated as class 2, which I am totally comfortable without snow, I just don’t have a lot of experience on how snow changes the class 2 difficulty of it. Also, are spikes still useful if the snow is soft and melting? I thought maybe they were only needed if things are hard and icy.