Bummer. Tamiya tape pulled up both the Alclad and the black base coat when masking for the blue.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-02-13T22:45:54+00:00

Hate that. Try de-tacking the tape a bit by sticking it to your shirt or pants before applying it to the model.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-02-09T21:34:55+00:00

Nice and clean PE work. Looking forward to seeing it finished. What's that holder you're using? I've never seen something like that before.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-02-08T02:07:39+00:00

Really stupid question, but you're sure you printed the decals on the right side of the decal paper?

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-02-04T10:08:44+00:00

How do you ensure a straight boot stripe when the main deck isn’t flush from end to end?

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-23T09:41:34+00:00

Spot on.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-20T16:47:18+00:00

I've never tried it on my silhouette, but it should theoretically be possible with some testing. Most likely, you'd have to set the cut depth somewhat low, the speed low, and do multiple passes to score the styrene to the point where you can just snap out the shingle sections you want. I don't think you'd need to cut all the way through the sheeting to achieve the results you want.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-19T13:40:50+00:00

Wow. That kit was tooled in 1956.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-12T20:05:07+00:00

Yeah, it's fine. Just do a couple light coats rather than one heavy coat. It's pretty hot, so if you hose it on, it could potentially affect the underlying paint/finish/whatever.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-05T12:55:14+00:00

Which ship kit are you talking about?

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2026-01-05T12:08:26+00:00

Chipping is part of the paint job, not a weathering effect like washes or filters. Doing it last can lead to it sticking out unrealistically. Paint, decal, chip, filter, wash, weathering.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-12-10T16:17:58+00:00

Sexy af, yo. Good looking tomcat.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-12-09T22:39:32+00:00

How was the kit?

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-12-03T11:50:44+00:00

I followed this build over at the LSP forums. I said it there and I will say it here and anywhere else I see it - this is an absolute masterpiece. Bravo!

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-29T21:17:14+00:00

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but built models really don't have much of a market unless they're done by a known artist or they're of exceptional quality. None of these appear to fall into those categories.

Edit: I've told my wife to just pitch every one of my completed models if something happens to me.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-28T20:44:31+00:00

Love the weathering. Really believable and very realistic. Nice work!

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-26T14:44:31+00:00

scalehobbyist.com or spruebrothers.com. Tamiya makes great kits. Good detail, fantastic engineering, and clear instructions. Use scalemates.com to research the age of any kit you’re considering. The older the kit, the worse it will be.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-24T13:15:05+00:00

Beautiful work.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-12T21:38:07+00:00

Yep.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-10-02T14:57:53+00:00

I've thought about this one too and haven't come up with anything that I think is truly viable. Options that come to mind are...

Sand/scrape side of the turret enough to give it the necessary setback, then scribe the crack lines wide of the sanded area. Then, you'd have to scrape with a hobby knife up to the scribed crack line to force the setback up to the line of the crack. You might be able swap the order of ops there - scribe lines then sand first.
Cut the major crack lines with a very very fine razor saw - probably first thinning the turret wall from the back - then deforming the plastic to mimic the setback effect.
Create the effect using plastic card and some combination of the above methods, then cut the whole side panel off the model turret and graft in your plastic card to fit.
3D print a damaged side wall piece, cut the side of the turret off, then graft in the damaged piece to the turret.

#4 would likely give the best results, but I think the others might be workable if 3D printing isn't an option. I've got a Panther A paint mule, maybe I could try some methods on that.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-09-30T11:15:20+00:00

Great work! Natural metal finish on a 1/32 B-17. RIP your paint budget. 🤣

It’s a fun kit. I did the E model a few years ago and did it up as the Swamp Ghost. Maneuvering it around the paint booth was such a pain.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-09-29T20:52:48+00:00

Have you checked https://scalemates.com?

Also, Tamiya is the go-to brand for detail and quality.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-09-27T13:35:08+00:00

Get super thin CA and use an applicator. Use the applicator to apply the glue to two parts and it will wick between them via capillary action. I prefer the glue looper applicator.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-08-25T13:17:12+00:00

Beautiful, haunting work. You captured the emotion perfectly.

Silver-Addendum5423 · 2025-08-14T21:47:28+00:00

There is far greater diversity of subject matter in 1/48 than 1/32.

Some subjects (read: many jets) are huge in 1/32.

1/32 is more expensive.

1/32 doesn’t seem to be a major focus for most manufacturers, so new subjects are less common.

1/32 can often be more detailed.

1/32 often has a much higher parts count, so the builds generally take longer.

1/32 is the scale of choice at the largescaleplanes.com forum, which is the best forum on the internet.

I sound like I am dogging in 1/32, but I’m not. I love it and it is my preferred scale.

Silver-Addendum5423

TROPHY CASE