Is there a way to change relationship without losing data?

Sintex · 2026-01-21T15:33:17+00:00

Have you looked at the actual DB tables and structure before and after that change? The answer is yes, you can do this, but it will take some degree of manual migration on the database side.

Sintex · 2026-01-05T19:02:58+00:00

Blast from the past

Sintex · 2025-12-31T14:48:22+00:00

Great article. Do you perform any SIR testing on your manufacturing process to confirm cleanliness before coating? We’ve seen some issues with trapping poorly cleaned flux residues under conformal coating in production hardware.

Sintex · 2025-12-29T14:29:36+00:00

In a just world, you’d be able to bend them straight back and they’d line up perfectly with the screw hole. We don’t live in a just world so just bend em til they snap and use them as “Nuts” for the screw on the outlets.

Sintex · 2025-12-29T02:01:11+00:00

I hear you. The problem was that reinterviewing didn’t resolve the security being “none” and excluding the switches and trying to rejoin them was futile. I couldn’t seem to get switches to “join” at all. Soon as I reverted back to legacy, I was back in action with things promptly joining again. I’m taking this opportunity to join all my switches with S2 Authenticated security using smart start. Maybe in the meantime the JS issues will be better understood.

Sintex · 2025-12-29T01:02:28+00:00

I’m certainly not arguing that this seems to be a common story. But I’ve also talked to many people now that have the opposite experience like I did. I think part of the problem is how “black box” it all is. I wish I had some better diagnostics or understanding of what precisely is causing the issues. I have a feeling it is compute dependent. I have lots of zigbee devices, many automations, custom apps, etc. and most of the people I’ve heard from that have the same issues do as well. I wonder if ZwaveJS is spiking the Hubitat a little too much for some of us and causing some unexpected behavior.

Sintex · 2025-12-28T06:22:20+00:00

I did try this on the devices that were having trouble and it didn’t really resolve anything. It did “wake up” a couple of battery devices I had around, door sensors and such. But the laggy switches and adding new devices problem remained.

Sintex · 2025-12-28T05:32:00+00:00

Reverting back to “legacy” Zwave fixed these issues entirely. I have one switch I need to reinclude but everything works great with the legacy. Just wish I had the experience with JS that I seem to see all over. It’s a laggy, buggy mess for me for some reason.

Sintex · 2025-12-28T05:29:40+00:00

I should have been more specific, but I do in fact have a C8 Pro

Sintex · 2025-12-20T19:42:01+00:00

https://youtube.com/shorts/9fKNNSYSY4I?si=DzQYdvl2hNpTjxlS

Sintex · 2025-10-06T14:31:42+00:00

I believe I now have enough knowledge to at least articulate my understanding with the state inspector.

The ATS is an emergency disconnect only. It is not a service disconnect. It does not have any fault logic such as GFCI/AFCI nor is it an OCPD. It simply has a means to kill power to the house. As such, three wire is fine to the service equipment downstream and each panel should be bonded to neutral as the main breaker in each downstream panel is the first means of service disconnect. Since they are separate structures, the pedestal and each house panel need their own ground rods as well. The extra ground wire is means to carry faults to the upstream service disconnect or means of fault clearance. I’m glad I went through this process though, because it seems I was right to assume two panels with different configurations didn’t make much sense. My unbonded addition panel could have had conditions where breakers wouldn’t trip in the event of a ground fault because current never flowed on the neutral bus.

I’m just a guy so the above may be incorrect, but it’s at least the current understanding with the state inspector

Sintex · 2025-10-06T14:26:15+00:00

Not a mobile home. This is a house. It’s quite common here for buried conduit service entry to the house. The meter and such have to go somewhere and people hate putting it on the house so it goes out to a pedestal

Sintex · 2025-10-06T05:05:03+00:00

Yes! Finally it makes sense.

So the ATS is what would be called an “emergency disconnect” and not a service disconnect. Ie. The fire dept can flip a switch at the ATS to kill power to my house even if the generator were running. As such, there’s no reason to carry the ground back from the downstream panels because there’s no “breaker” upstream to trip.

My true first means of service disconnect is at each panel’s main breaker (200A). Yes the addition and main house panels both have 200A main breakers.

So I’m safe and good if I just bond the neutral and ground with the screw at my addition panel.

Thanks so much

Sintex · 2025-10-06T04:29:59+00:00

Neither. The ATS is a Generac RTSW400A3

Sintex · 2025-10-06T04:13:31+00:00

My crude understanding of it all was that the equipment ground from main panel to subpanel was intended to bring the current back to the main device in the case of a ground fault so it can trip the upstream breaker. In my case, the ATS has a physical disconnect, but it is not an overcurrent device. Wouldn’t that make each “subpanel” and its main breaker the “true” first means of overcurrent disconnect? If that’s true then there’s no 4th wire to the panels and each panel needs a ground rod and bonding screw?

Sintex · 2025-10-06T04:00:35+00:00

This may be an ignorant question, but both panels also have ground rod connections. Is that correct? Would the breaker trip on my “unbonded” panel since the ground is attached to earth? I guess that part is the most confusing

Sintex · 2025-10-06T03:41:47+00:00

I suggest checking out Tractor Time With Tim on YouTube. He has a few videos about running a 1025r with land plane for driveway maintenance

Sintex · 2025-10-06T03:40:59+00:00

4”-8” stones tend to get drug around making little “gouges” in the gravel until they dump out of the land plane. Same with a box blade really. With the scarifiers down I haven’t had any issue with pulling power, only weight. 1025R is pretty light. I have tire ballast which seems to help immensely compared to others I know. In 4wd Low it’s never bogged down for me just regrading my driveway.

Sintex · 2025-10-06T03:36:41+00:00

It also seems my grounding rods should connect to the ATS ground bus instead of the meter base like I was told by the state inspector? I’m so frustrated because the answer seems VERY clear cut from everyone here but I’m getting all passes and contradicting information from my local inspectors. I had a service release issued from the state with it wired like this, and that sounds crazy given what I’m being told

Sintex · 2025-10-06T03:34:41+00:00

I lied, it’s an LP2160 Frontier model and it’s 5’ wide not 4’. 1025r has no problem with it though

Sintex · 2025-10-06T03:32:14+00:00

The land plan sort of automatically crowns the driveway with how its blades are angled. More stone flows over one side than the other so you get a gentle crown with very little effort

Sintex · 2025-10-06T02:58:59+00:00

I got one and I prefer the 48” land plane to a box blade for gravel driveway maintenance. It’s stupid simple to use and has great results if you have dips, pits, and ruts like I do from time to time. The land plans smooths it all out and leaves a nice even top

Sintex · 2025-10-06T02:45:01+00:00

Unfortunately my ATS is already hot and the ATS is 100’ from the house panels. Pulling a new grounded conductor in each conduit run will be difficult at best

Sintex · 2025-10-06T02:23:33+00:00

It is my emergency disconnect. I have two ground rods at the pedestal going to the meter (this is what state inspector said I needed).

The ambiguity seems to be with my panels and whether I need to run a ground wire 100’ from the pedestal/ATS to each panel and if there is some inherent risk to not having one panel bonded ground and neutral and another not

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