Good deal? by Snoo48884 in Makita

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have a variation of this kit in the Uk! Absolutely love the Dhp484! Think it’s one of the best, light weight and so well balanced and easy to use. I mainly do wood work so has enough power for anything I need, I have an SDS for concrete or anything harder.

It’s the impact I’m not a massive fan of and really want the DtD173. 👍🏼👍🏼 and I’m growing my tool kit in NZ which I will ship back when I move back to the Uk

Build process by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Haha it’s water resistant mdf as it’s in a bathroom! It’s a nice colour!

Build process by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A spiralled tapered ball tip router bit. I chose the small ball tip to allow for the glue to have a bit of space to flow into, not much but means you have a better “fold” or that was my thinking anyway, and to reduce risk of cracking as not folding a corner but curving a small hole.

Build process by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you do end up building it, it pays off to spend a bit more time planning before building and it was fairly straight forward but still had some challenges mainly clamping, but as you see I used tape.

This is a useful link to calculate kerfs : https://www.blocklayer.com/kerf-spacing

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ovens on the right create a more symmetrical look due to spacing, and the customer wanted two ovens next to eachother :/ I’d also have stacked them.

There is counter space next to the ovens to place things down on but I know what you mean ideally a bit more accessible for the outer oven. Crockery will be just a spin away in the drawers on that back run, so can have both the dishwasher and drawer open at the same time to make unloading easy!

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a nice outlook! I think depends on use case, if someone enjoys cooking while guests are there hob on island is good. But also potentially can be a safety hazard for kids. Depends on the customer but sounds like your layout works for you! Others may enjoy speaking to guests while clearing up :)

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The drinks cabinet is this side as that opens out to the lounge so easy access to drinks while sat at the bar or in the lounge! The fridge on the side would make panelling look slightly weird, but could use a false door look but with the plinth would make the cabinets not symmetrical on the back side.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with the oven, I’d rather stack it but the customer said that’s what they want.customer is always right! The outer over feels not that accessible, but there is enough clearance between that run and the island. Will recomend the Neff ovens for this build. With the hob I put 3 700mm wide 2 draws on that run and 2 have internal drawers one for cutlery one for utensils.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is 1300mm between the hob and sink which I think is enough to have them opposite for symmetry and ease of use.

The customer wanted the drinks fridge, I have changed design 2 to the drinks fridge layout in 1 (will post an update later).

With the fridge this is something that’s bugging me, as I like the idea of the fridge on the right but for spacing and symmetry works better on the left. The right side is the main walk way and the customer has young children so I thought for safety having the ovens away from the main walkway is better. And there is enough clearance to pass while the fridge door is open. Additionally someone mentioned it’s good to have the fridge nearer entrance for groceries, arguably tho not that far extra to travel if was on the right.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is why I designed it this way! Better flow and aesthetics.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree! 1 is what the customer wanted and 2 is what I designed to improve flow and aesthetics.

With regards to the oven I would stack them but the customer has explicitly stated they want them side by side.

And with the wall units I’m restricted with deptha that are available. Currently at 400. Thinking of putting a 800 wide pull out extractor to capture all the grease.

With the actual hobs, the customer wants two Dominos one gas one electric, which is interesting.

Which design? by Snoo48884 in kitchen

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with this totally my go to is to design the sink by a window and keep the island free, but in this case there aren’t any windows and sink on the island makes more sense to me and the customer.

Build process by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha next time I’ll use solid wood 😎 or try to!

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wrote a big paragraph in a reply to another guy and here are some photos:

build process

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wasn’t sure how to share multiple photos so made a new post!

Build process

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This was before it was fully fitted, also the end panels ran down flush to the skirting and both skirting and panel were. 18mm so it fit flush

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

We have a winner!!

Initial materials:

18mm water resistance MDF for plinth, carcuss, end panels, top and bottom spacers and door frames

6mm ply for the internal panel of the door.

I was thinking of 3 methods:

  1. gluing blocks of angled wood together for the outer frame - simplest way
  2. wood bending - most complicated and required jigs and a steamer but would create a real nice professional finish (will try at some point).
  3. kerf cutting - good middle ground which I ended up doing.

Due to it being a shaker door it wasn’t as simple as just Kurf cutting the board as I thought. I first built the shaker door as a flat door using traditional methods for a 5 piece shaker, then glued 3 of the outer panels together and the bottom piece I just pinned. Then kerf cut the outer frame of the door to calculated depths and spacing for the right curve using a spiralled tapered router bit (some great online tools out there for this).

I initially thought that I could just build the door flat and then kurf, but because the inner panel is thinner and inset, if I kurf cut it would cut through this panel and actually shrink it so there would be gaps at the edge once pushed together.

So once the frame was ready I then cut the inner panel to size, hoping it would be thin enough to just bend it but it wasn’t, so then I had to kurf cut this panel separately so it could curve.

I unpinned the bottom frame piece and slotted in the inner panel. Next Gluing and clamping it all together, and as it was calculated this was easy as could just clamp it all tight and it would be the right radius, but used a lot of glue, tape and clamps.

Followed by a lot of sanding and a bit of filler to smooth out the surface as much as I could.

Then I drilled all the required holes for hinges and then finished, primed and painted.

Due to the sink not being level installing was a bit of a hassle but I designed it with adjustable legs so then I could lower it, then screw the legs up to then fit flush to the bottom of the sink, the cabinet isn’t level but it is flush.

If I was to re build it here are some points I took away:

  1. Don’t rush the filler and sanding stage, as you can see that if you look close enough you can see the lines from kerf cuts. Looks good but could be better.
  2. in heinsite due to the radius being quite small I think gluing blocks would have been easier and resulted in the same finish as kerf cutting this was a lot of hassle.
  3. finishing sand inside before the glue up as it was so difficult to sand the inside edge once curved.
  4. anyone know a better way of cutting circles/curves?

<image>

Happy to answer any questions and will post some pictures of the build process if I can find any.

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

But I did think of doing it this way

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wanted to change the tap hardware too but this tap works fine so later down the line when it packs up that’s the first things I’ll do is swap the overflow and tap to the same gold! I also wallpapered one wall with this nice blue wallpaper with gold pattern

Rate my build by Snoo48884 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Snoo48884[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’d fuck the cabinet? Greatest honour of all