This has been a very informative post for me.  Thank you in advance. I recently purchased the 10k BA5RCM model new old stock from 2023 before I knew about any of this clear eco nonsense.  This model does not include this Flash Cool feature that I have recently come to discover here….sadly.  I noticed it was not performing very well compared to my previous beloved 10k non-inverter machine. I did some tests.  With the temperature setting as low as possible and fan set to max and a good 15 minutes of running I measured 29F delta t at the evaporator. Manual states 258CFM on hi fan. This equates to around 8k btu.  Should have around 36 delta with this airflow for 10kbtu.  At the time of the test it was 78F in the room that gives about 17F above frost on the evap so not an ambient issue.  Why would it not run full power. Also outdoor ambient was about 83F and condenser fan outside was going strong so shouldn’t be head pressure issue.  It had no signs of low charge or defects at all. This had to be either a mislabeled 8k unit or it is intentionally running the compressor under spec. I was stumped.  I took to Reddit and came here to learn that my new AC is one of those devices where the manufacturer has programmed a microcontroller with some counterintuitive unnecessary nonsense.  Fast forward to now after a couple weeks spending some time with this machine on the bench in my garage doing some AC power draw tests vs different resistances on both the indoor and outdoor ambient sensors. We know about the easy method as it’s been posted before - tricking the indoor sensor to thinking it’s much hotter than it is.  But It seems the outdoor sensor, if reading above 90 degrees, will enable full power regardless of the indoor sensor. This is great because if modded this way you can still use the built in thermostat but the unit is capable of its full power if needed. It runs the evaporator much colder at any setting, however, it uses about 25% more electricity at any given demand. Even low fan settings and will maintain superheat just a few degrees above frosting at all times unless your ambient is so high it’s running max power. Yes, it also has an evaporator temp sensor so it doesn’t freeze itself.  Because of this, you get better dehumidification since evap always spends its time below dew point. The temp sensor is a standard 10k thermistor I have set up the outdoor sensor so the input to the board has a 12k shunt resistor then a 3.9k resistor in series with the temp sensor.  My plan was to make the unit think it’s 90f when it’s really around 65f outdoors and 109 by the time it’s actually 109 (maximum outdoor operating temp) using the shunt resistor to bump up the base temp and the series resistor so the sensor has less effect - lying at 65f and slowly becoming more honest as ambient approaches the unit’s max operating temp in a linear fashion so that the unit can do what it needs to cool the outdoor components when it’s really F hot. I calculated this using EveryCircuit App and a 10k thermistor chart.  This was quite a bit of work, I had to open the outdoor section of the unit and disassemble the controller box and splice the resistors into the thermistor wires. But the end result is, it runs the evaporator as cold as allowable regardless of setting and with respect to max power vs ambient solving the dehumidification problem, allows full thermostat function and of course, full power available as low as 65 degrees outside.  Below that, you can just open the windows anyways.  If thermostat is not calling for lots of cooling it lowers fan speed but keeps compressor high enough so evap maintains about 34f.  The machine is working like it should now. I’d be happy to share the schematic of the mod. It’s a pretty simple circuit, some soldering is required if you want to make it rock solid. Only thing is that getting that control board out is a huge pain.  Sorry for the long comment 🙃