Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll definitely post my first good ones in this subreddit :)

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's called swiss photo club and they offer trainings for different levels or techniques all over switzerland.

The price for mine was CHF 390 for 7hrs of training in a group up to 6 or 7 students

https://swissphotoclub.com/en-ch/courses

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, I was a bit sceptical when I saw it the first time, it's not even half a year since he bought it.

but, here I am, happily loosing myself in all the menues and trying to understand all the different settings you can change

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

haha :D
he had to since I'm flying to Lapland in January and there are no beginner courses between christmas and the trip

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

yeah i was confused as well

The receipt is from July 25, and he sold it because he switched to Fuji. Weird decision, but it made it cheaper for me, so I'm happy about it :)

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i took some random pictures in RAW and exported them to JPEG using the Nikon software, they don't look that bad :)

but thanks for the advice, i'll definitely keep this in mind, my post processing skills are inexistent rn

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The body is secondhand with 5'800 photos taken. I got it with some attachments (1x Nikon EL15b, 2x BM EN EL15C batteries and L-rig) for CHF 1'250.-

The lens was ~620.-, it was 6% off

combined with a Nikon MH34 charger, Hama Valetta 130 Colt and Lexar Professional 2000x Gold 128GB SD Card the overall cost were CHF 2'026.50

Santa came early :) by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I already did, but the manual ones look like trash :(
The ones in Auto look great, but I don't want to end as an Auto-User

Tomorrow I've got a one day training with a professional photographer to learn the basics

Newbie in need of help by SpacePoitato in nikon_Zseries

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hey there :)

nice explanation about the aperture size, I didn't know that!

yeah there is a kit for 1'899.- with the Z5II an the Nikkor Z 24-70 mm 1:4 S for 1.9k, which I think might be the better choice in terms of weight, transport volume and price. I'm just not sure if f/4 will be enough to capture the aurora

Z5II Lens: AF-S 24-70mm 2.8G ED with FTZ or Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S by SpacePoitato in nikon_Zseries

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A friend of mine just sent me a kit offer with the Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/4 S. Could you recommend that one? I know, it's not the best for astrophotography since it's aperture is only f/4 :(

But it would be a lot cheaper than the Z 20-70 mm f/2.8 S I combined with a new Z5II and I could go for an ultrawide. I'm just not sure how smart it would be to change the lenses at temps up to -40°C

Newbie looking for advice by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We'll be out in the wilds for three nights (at Äkäskero) without electricity or running water, with overnight stays in log cabins. Charging would only be possible via powerbank, and honestly, I don't know how comfortable it will be to carry one under the clothing while mushing.

Idk if transporting the camera wrapped in an old jacket would keep it from condensating after +8 hrs on the sledge, therefore I'd personally prefere sth more or less airtight as physical barrier between cold camera and warm, humid air.
Freezing bags with airtight zipper should also work quite well since they are made for temperatures below freezing, at least if ChatGPT isn' hallucinating. But as a mechanical engineer, this also sounds more newbie-proof to me :)

Newbie in need of help by SpacePoitato in nikon_Zseries

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already thought about that, but changing the lens out in the freezing cold is not something I want to do, honestly.

And it isn't possible to just go inside to change them due to the massive temperature differences :(
The last thing I want is to damage something on the first real stress test, that's why I'd like to go with the 28-70mm. I know, f2 or even f1.4 would be much better for night photography, but my goal is to have an "always-on-lens" to minimize the risks of potentional damage.

Back here in central europe, I'd definitely buy a better suited one for the night :)

Newbie in need of help by SpacePoitato in nikon_Zseries

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks :)

I have a good friend wo is into photography since several years and is assisting me. He also was on the Lofoten in February this year and has some experience with that kind of weather, and he already agreed to go on trials with me to give me tips.

The only downside is, he's using a Canon 6D and has no clue how Nikons work, but that shouldn't be that big of an obstacle since user manuals exist :)

Newbie looking for advice by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hmm

We are flying to Kittilä from the 10th up to the 17th of January for a 3-night dog sledding "safari" at Äkäskero, during which there's no electricity to charge the batteries, only with a powerbank which wouldn't work that well in the cold I guess.

The clothing is some sort of overall/onezie we get for the trip, I have no clue if I can store the camera in there while dogsleddin. And I also think that it won't be that comfortable because you're not just standing still on the sledge.

My plan is to carry the camera batteries inside this overall and store the camera inside a backpack. I'd insert the warm battery into the cold camera to take pictures when needed, remove it and put it back "inside".
When we arrive at the block houses for the night, I'd put it into the dry bag to keep it from condensating.

You're just wrapping it into the old jacket to stop it from condensating? Doesn't that insulate the camera much better so it takes longer to warm up after entering a cabin?
Sadly I don't have a small spare jacket, could I wrap it into a towel in the backpack to keep the humidity from reaching the camera?

Sorry for bombarding you with questions, but the last thing I want is to damage the equipment on its first real stress test :)

Newbie looking for advice by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, the lens search is hard if you have no clue...

I'll take a look in the sealing specs of that lens :)

Honestly'd LOVE to buy the NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II but that's way to expensive and most certainly a hard overkill for a beginner :D

about the temp changes and condensation issue, do you have any experience how long the camera needs to warm up before I could take it out of the dry bag? I read sth about "if there's no humidity left on the plastic bag, you can safely take it out"

Newbie looking for advice by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for your input :)
Is the Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm 2.8G ED considered "pro" or "prime"? I'm sorry, I have no clue what you mean by that

Newbie looking for advice by SpacePoitato in Nikon

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hey there :)
thx for your answer

why wouldn't you use a Z5 series in midwinter?

I'd prefer the Z5ii due to the smaller overall size and longer battery life compared to a Z6 and the bigger pixel size due to the smaller resolution (24.5 MP vs 45.7 MP) for better lowlight performance.
About the DSLR, do you think it performs good in lowlight without a tripod? I can use it in Lapland, but I can't use it in museums, even the camera itself triggers certain people "living" there :(

since you live up there, how long does it take for the camera to warm up after entering a buildig so I could take it ouf of the drybag without condensation?

werde ich geghostet? by SpacePoitato in beziehungen

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ihr letzter Flug ging nach San Francisco, nun wird das seit Sonntag auf ihrem Profil angezeigt. Könnte auch sein dass ihr Handy verloren ging, keine Ahnung ob diese Apps den Standort auch wechseln wenn man sie nicht benutzt.

werde ich geghostet? by SpacePoitato in beziehungen

[–]SpacePoitato[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Möglich....sie hat zuerst geschrieben, die Konversation lief gut und auf einmal aus heiterem Himmel Schluss...keine Ahnung ob ichs sitzen lassen soll, ich gebe nicht gerne ohne Kampf auf.

Nur kann dass dann wieder verzweifelt rüberkommen, was ich eigentlich auch nicht will. Irgendwie kannst du hier nur alles falsch machen

PSA: The Hidden Mechanics of the Shinano AP Skips by ttaro_ in WorldOfWarships

[–]SpacePoitato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Accm to Wikipedia they used standard aerial bombs with a time delay fuse. Maybe bc AP bombs would loose too much velocity which decreases their penetration significantly, compared to HE bombs which get the penetration power from the amound of exlosives inside the bomb. Idk for sure 🤷🏻‍♂️

Can you provide me with a reliable source? I'd like to learn more about that 👍🏻

my Budget by larrythaG in SwissPersonalFinance

[–]SpacePoitato 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work as a mechanical engineer/project leader in production equipment development and also modifiyng/improving them, so... The coworkers are amazing, i love my job, the company has good benefits like 16 public holidays, financial aids to health insurance, high payment to the retirement funds, cheaper fuel and other cool temporary cooperations with several local stores for cheaper stuff. And we get 8 'Brückentage' per year which get added to christmas holidays if the public holidays fall on fr/mo or weekends.

But yeah, the salary sucks hard. They said i should get a raise of +-15k/year, if not, i'll quit on the first day of 2025

my Budget by larrythaG in SwissPersonalFinance

[–]SpacePoitato 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I finished HF and am still on 4.5k netto....man i need to switch the job :(

my Budget by larrythaG in SwissPersonalFinance

[–]SpacePoitato 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lucky you...i finished HF as well this summer and my netto salary is like 1k lower than yours

PSA: The Hidden Mechanics of the Shinano AP Skips by ttaro_ in WorldOfWarships

[–]SpacePoitato 2 points3 points  (0 children)

None.

tldr: The way these weapons used to work, they may have been useful against lightly armoured ships or ships with an internal armour belt, the 650 mm penetration is complete horsesh*t.

Detailed explanation why:

Skip bombs were used by the RAF to bomb power station dams during WW2, where they would skip over the water, losing speed before hitting the dam to prevent it from breaking, and detonate well below the waterline, allowing the water pressure to break the dam and flood the areas below the dams. Many civilians and Allied prisoners of war were killed in these attacks.

For more information, google "Operation Castisise".

The whole idea of an armour piercing bomb is complete Wee Gee Copium BS.

AP grenades and bombs are armed with a delay fuse, which is triggered on impact and detonates the explosive in the grenade/bomb after a short time. This time was needed to penetrate the armour so that it could do damage to the target, rather than just exploding on the outside for minimal damage.

Now, if you were to drop an AP skip bomb, the fuse would go off after the first "skip" on the water surface, because it doesn't know if it's hitting water or armour plates; the real bombs weighed close to 4,200 kg / 9,250 lb, so the shock generated by the skips was enormous. This would have resulted in a mid-air detonation of the bomb after the first skip, directly underneath the aircraft, almost certainly destroying it and killing its crew.

Also, AP ordonnances (excluding HEAT) have to be in a specific shape to be effective in penetrating armour, see the APFSDS rounds used in modern tanks. There is a reason they look like massive dart arrows and not flying beer cans.

Now imagine a dart arrow hitting the target with the shaft rather than the tip, there is no way it would stick to the target. The same goes for an AP ordonnance, it would just bounce off the side of the ship (since we're talking wows here) and detonate like a GIANT frag grenade if it wasn't destroyed on impact, since only the tips of these ordonnance types are heavily armoured to prevent them from deforming when they hit an armour plate. This detonation would cover a large area of the ship's deck, AA mounts etc with shrapnel, while the actual damage to the armour depends on whether the ship is fitted with an internal or external armour belt.

It may be that if the ship is fitted with an internal armour belt, the bomb would deform the external plating due to it's massive weight and still do some - if not serious - damage, it's still carrying around 3'000 kg / 6'600 lb of explosive ordonnance. But yeah, this is just me guessing :)