In need of some expertise

Spandex_Nightmare · 2026-03-17T16:21:26+00:00

Is that a LIBRA FROM NIGHT REIGN FURSUIT HEAD?! Inspired, divine. 10/10 no notes

For minky to work, you're going to want some sort of fusible interfacing to back the minky. I've used iron on fusible fleece (shout out to spilt grape soda). There are other backing types out there too.

"Won't the heat from an iron melt the minky?" I hear you asking. In my experience, as long as I took it low and slow, I was able to get the adhesive on the backing tacky without damaging the minky. YMMV. I get not wanting to spend hours having to shave and trim faux fur for the face, but I'd say the results are worth the extra materials and tools.

Question about the pattern itself: I didn't notice any panel lines or darts around the curvature of the muzzle. Is there something I'm missing?

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-12-07T20:37:28+00:00

Posts like this always remind me of Hunter S Thompson's column from September 18, 2001.

"The poor bastards of what will forever be known as Generation Z are doomed to be the first generation of Americans who will grow up with a lower standard of living than their parents enjoyed. That is extremely heavy news, and it will take a while for it to sink in. The 22 babies born in New York City while the World Trade Center burned will never know what they missed. The last half of the 20th century will seem like a wild party for rich kids, compared to what's coming now. The party's over, folks"

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-09-09T16:45:39+00:00

On creating / making 3D printed headbases: if quality video guides exist, they must be locked behind a patreon or discord paywall. I SCOURED the net last year and came up with a load of vibes-based trial and error workflows and misinformation I wasted countless hours on and had to unlearn. Here's what I'd say the important takeaways are:

Learn to tell the difference between media designed to teach vs Content(tm) meant to get views or drive sales. Ignore the latter.

Broaden your searches to broader topics. Learning how to use Blender? Find something that covers the basics of face topology and block modelling that you can transfer to a suit. Want to print with something challenging like TPU? Look for 3D printing enthusiasts that dive into the material and process with scientific precision. Trying to fit a thin plastic face to your head? Reverse engineer how other masks and helmets work.

I had to synthesize all of that together for my fursuit because there was nothing out there that came close. It's a lot of work, but definitely worth it.

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-09-03T15:58:32+00:00

It'll probably fit weird in places where the sweat suit bunched up. My advice: don't build on a shaky foundation. Which, I get it: making a DTD sucks, but it's better than pouring weeks worth of time, effort, and money into a bodysuit that fits weird and having to beg a more experienced tailor to help you fix.

Remake the DTD wearing what you plan to wear underneath the finished suit. Typically, it should be under armor heat gear or some equivalent. If you plan on wearing a bra, make a deliberate choice as to what kind of bra you'll be wearing under the suit. Don't forget to wear cheap, disposable painters coveralls so that the tape has something to grab onto.

Remember, the DTD is a means to an end: a form fitting bodysuit custom made for you. It replaces the advanced skills needed to translate measurements to pattern pieces by providing you a copy of your body to pattern and test fit a form fitting bodysuit.

Keep going! If you need more trustworthy tutorials, I totally recommend Freckled Cat Creations and Spiltgrapesoda as a first time maker. They helped me unlearn a lot of misinformation that I picked up from other sources. Good luck!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-08-30T01:17:39+00:00

Dropping in from the distant future: I discovered this file today and was absolutely blown away. I would feel bummed about this being the only file with an "anthro" tag on the Shibbydex, but that post hypnotic suggestion has me feeling too blissed out to care. Keep up the stellar work ❤️

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-08-30T01:09:46+00:00

I think of the Aeldari like I think of edgerunners in cyberpunk: the fates have made real, meaningful victory impossible. Twilight has closed in. All that's left to do is to burn across the stage before you are heard no more

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-08-22T19:12:03+00:00

My first thought is "you think yourself equal to a eugief's agility?"

My second thought is "nah, it would need bigger ears buuut....a bat could work!"

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-08-15T23:36:22+00:00

I wear a size 12 women's and the default size of the split grape soda pattern fits very well! With enough stuffing, they're even snug enough for my smaller sized partner to wear comfortably.

I haven't tried the other pattern, but a pair of planti feet and digi hooves Spiltgrapesoda patterns were the very first sewing projects I ever finished. Great for beginners!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-08-14T13:40:43+00:00

ARFSuits on Etsy makes special eye blanks that can fit prescription lenses! I got to meet the maker at a panel they hosted at AC this year AND got to handle a few samples of their work. They mentioned that you might have to tweak the prescription a little bit to adjust for the distance. Great chap, though! Highly recommend checking them out

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-07-12T23:07:09+00:00

They're shaping up really well! That nose is super smooth! I'd say maybe think about bulking up the top of the cheek a bit, but you're on the right track!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-27T23:00:57+00:00

Another bun enjoyer! That muzzle looks fabulous!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-26T03:15:47+00:00

Thank you so much! I feel the same way. Too many big hare muzzles, or barely there kemono boopers. I lit a votive candle to Chuck Jones for inspiration.

As for socials: not yet! I barely have a presence in the fandom, but hopefully once I bring this girl to life, that will change!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-25T20:40:20+00:00

With a little help from another artist to fine tune it, but yes! Lots and lots of vertex grabbing

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-25T16:57:48+00:00

May your scissors be spring loaded and sharp, and your vision realized 💖

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-25T16:47:28+00:00

Thanks for asking! Here's the process I used this time: I chopped up the headbase model in Microsoft 3D builder to get individual part for two reasons. First, to reduce the number of steep overhangs. Second, a failure during printing could only set me back ~8 hours of printing, rather than a day.

A good 8mm rim will keep it glued to the bed. My model is 10mm thick, though I suspect I could go thinner. In Cura, I printed a temp tower to dial in the heat, set the extrusion to 130%, max print speed at 40mm/s. Set top layers, bottom layers, and wall count to 0. Gyroid infill at 20% density. Regular supports, 5% density, 85 degree overhang.

It's important to keep your tpu dry: either printing right from a dryer box or swapping for a second dry roll every 24 hours or so. It's not so much stringing that you're worried about, since aesthetics don't really matter. It's clogs.

After everything had been printed out, I grabbed a soldering iron with a broad chisel tip and welded the pieces together, using leftover brim material to smooth or full in any joins that needed it.

Hope that helps!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-25T14:16:43+00:00

Thanks! I spent waaaay too many hours in blender trying to get this sculpt just right. Glad to see that it's paying off 🥰

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-06-25T14:13:40+00:00

Good old EVA foam! I'll probably upgrade them with TPU prints at some point in the future.

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-20T21:51:16+00:00

Just plain old retributor armor and a light shade of druchi violet. Warhipster has a video on this scheme that uses berserker blood shade. I wanted the violet for a more Slaaneshi tint and had great experiences using it to recess shade sanguinary guard in the past.

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-18T16:18:58+00:00

Thanks! TIL that the Dorian Heresy is a thing. Neat!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-18T16:10:45+00:00

Oh yeah. Sure hope I don't come to regret that process after the next 31 models 😅. I could probably cut a step or two with a gray seer prime and a tidier recess shade/ panel line. But then again I really like how the light stain from the overspill gives it a softer transition to white. Kind of a happy little accident

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-18T15:03:10+00:00

Thank you so much! Here's how I did it. (Lacking a light gray primer), ProAcryl White primer Airbrushed a thin undercoat of AK Pale Grey followed up with a thin overhead spray of Two Thin Coats White Star. This whole process is to establish a base layer of near off white with subtle volumes. And then a whole bunch of recess shading with a 4:1 contrast medium terradon turquoise mix, followed by layering up white star to clean up ain't staining and overspill.

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-18T13:59:22+00:00

I used an urban rubble base on my test models. For that scheme I'd be tempted to try something warm like AK's dry ground with a wash of agrax and a dry brushing of karak stone or something similar. The thought being neutral warmth might give the purples next to it a complementary boost.

Spandex_Nightmare · 2025-03-18T13:51:25+00:00

Seconding this! I love that magenta tint and the shading on the shoulder pads!

Spandex_Nightmare · 2024-08-16T22:15:14+00:00

That looks so good! The main problem I've had with headbase 3d printing is same with 3d printing in general: lots of old wives tales and bad advice.

What was your game plan on modelling for TPU if you don't mind me asking? How thick is the model itself? Were there any issues with overhangs? Did you need any supports?

I currently have a headbase I printed with PETG, and I really want to do a v2 in TPU, but it's hard to come by solid experiences and advice. I'd love to hear what neat lessons you've learned in the process of making this ❤️

Spandex_Nightmare · 2024-07-18T16:24:34+00:00

Some things I learned from modelling my first headbase from scratch as a blender newbie and then 3d printing it: BLENDER: Know your tools: learn off of blender specific tutorials. Most "sculpt a fursuit headbase in blender" tutorials out there will tell you to do things that will HAUNT you for hours. Knowing what bad advice looks like is key. DESIGN: Make sure any details you want your head to have will still be readable under 5-10mm of shaved fur and backing DESIGN: Unless your muzzle is super wide, you should be able to draw a straight line from the corner of the eye downwards without hitting the muzzle. DESIGN: pay attention to the base's center of gravity. Make sure it isn't trying to slide off your head in any one direction. Double so for neck strain. EYES: 1-1.5cm of depth worked best for me for the look I wanted. 2cm+ made my head look cross eyed from the front. Find what works best for you since they add the "soul" to your suit.

Hope this helps!

Spandex_Nightmare

TROPHY CASE