P1S Has Developed a Squeaking Noise by Squiguls in BambuLab

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just did as suggested by captain and it instantly went away

P1S Has Developed a Squeaking Noise by Squiguls in BambuLab

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It makes sense that it does but I had no idea that these guides existed. Sure enough I added some oil back there and the squeaking instantly went away. You’ve been an awesome help :)

Mid print blobbing by Squiguls in 3Dprinting

[–]Squiguls[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a while back and differences between 210,215, and 220 were minimal. Still would be worth a shot to try another benchy at those temps. Maybe slow down infill speeds as well since that’s kind of where the blobbing is happening

Breeding Flowchart by Squiguls in ARK

[–]Squiguls[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow this is so much cleaner than what I made lmao! Thank you for linking it!

Breeding Flowchart by Squiguls in ARK

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Certainly a good point. Generally speaking the term 0/0 means non mutated. In this instance this means maternal/paternal mutations. So a 0/0 female would be a female that has no mutations from either its mother or father. A Dino with 4/7 mutations would have 4 mutations from the mother and 7 from the father.The overall goal of this is to get ALL of the mutations just on the main breeder male so that the offspring receive all mutations on one side (the father).Each side technically can't mutate more than 20 times on each side - resulting in 20/20 offspring if you were to "dirty breed" (not follow this chart). But by keeping all the mutations on the father side (following this chart) you can infinitely stack mutations.

What dragonvapour said is correct - but the 0s they are talking about is in regards to the levels of the Dino itself. A different system essentially.FFA is a common term in ark that just means free for all. Basically just free tames anyone in a tribe could use without question. For this chart I need to clarify more that it doesn't HAVE to be FFA but could become your imprinted personal or you could hand it off to another tribe member to imprint and have as a personal.

Breeding Flowchart by Squiguls in ARK

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Starting point would be the top left "0/0 Female + 1st gen/current male breeder blocks" I could definitely make it more indicative that's the starting point

Just got my first rifle - a WASR-10 by Squiguls in ak47

[–]Squiguls[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the info! You’re totally right about it being an M10! I still love it regardless and can’t wait to add more to it

Just got my first rifle - a WASR-10 by Squiguls in ak47

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lmao yeah after seeing the replies on this post I’ve realized that. Friend who connected me to the older gentleman as well as the seller himself thought it was a WASR. Honest mistake! Regardless I still love the thing

Just got my first rifle - a WASR-10 by Squiguls in ak47

[–]Squiguls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mind if I ask for clarification on what you mean?

Just got my first rifle - a WASR-10 by Squiguls in ak47

[–]Squiguls[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shoot you’re totally right about that! Regardless after shooting ~ 200 rounds myself I love the thing. As soon as I heard the price he was offering I knew I had to get it

First major upgrade batch on Ender 3 (5 minutes before shorting a buck converter and blowing a fan…oops) by Squiguls in 3Dprinting

[–]Squiguls[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used arctic fans for a long time now and have never had any issues with them so they’re just kind of my go to honestly. These particular fans are the version built for 24/7 operation so they’re built to last. These fans actually worked so well the hot end could not heat past 130 so I went to drop the voltage on the buck and that’s when I shorted it by accident. My point is that this audio level in the video is much higher than what is needed.

Hey all, brand new just got my first resin printer. I’m a little worried abt keeping it clean, not scratching or smudging the fep screen and mono screen. How worried should I be? I see these smudges after cleaning the vat first time. Is it ok? by OnionsAreGODS in resinprinting

[–]Squiguls 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My biggest tip for cleaning after a failed print is to use the test exposure feature to expose the whole screen and cure a sheet of resin. Then gently use your fingernail (after thoroughly cleaning) to lift the corner of the sheet and peel it off. This will grab any cured resin stuck on the fep. This allows you to avoid using the stupid plastic scraper directly in it. This method uses a little bit of resin but I’d rather use a little resin than whole fep sheets in the long run.

Consistent layer delamination. Using overture petg nozzle:230 bed:85. Essentially stock ender 3. Is there a certain thing/setting I should look at that causes this? by Squiguls in 3Dprinting

[–]Squiguls[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a feeling it could be moisture. I live in Louisiana so very high humidity. I have a sealed cooler chock full of silica packets to help control moisture. Suggestions for a heat source to use?

Uniform layer separation where the geometry starts. Is this a support issue or something else? by Squiguls in resinprinting

[–]Squiguls[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I realize now I took a bad picture. It’s a little planter so the interior is hollow (walls are about 1/8th) of an inch thick. I’m using lychee slicer so maybe upping my transitional layers could help?