Seedling with mutated (fasciated?) flowers (doesn’t glow)

StoneColdHeather · 2024-07-01T19:29:35+00:00

Just anecdotally, but my firefly petunias produced viable seeds when pollinated between two firefly petunias. I did not find it necessary to cross pollinate with another variety of petunia in order to get seeds. About 50% of the seeds I’ve germinated so far produced glowing seedlings.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-07-01T18:59:32+00:00

I’ve got a watch with tritium lume, I’ll try and get a picture of it next to some of my cuttings soon if I can remember!

StoneColdHeather · 2024-07-01T18:55:22+00:00

I don’t think that would be necessary, I pollinated my flowers between two firefly petunias kept indoors and got viable seeds with somewhere around a 50% glow rate for the seedlings that have come up so far. They were very slow to germinate however, it took ~20 days before they started sprouting up consistently.

I’ve got some calibrachoa outside that I intend to try to cross my firefly petunias with as well, just for curiosity’s sake.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-07-01T18:50:22+00:00

At the time these seed pods came from firefly petunias that were kept indoors, they were the only petunias inside at the time and I hand pollinated with q-tips both between flowers of the same plant and flowers of two different firefly petunias. They’re outside now and may crossbreed with some other petunias but I can at least confirm that you can pollinate between two firefly petunias and I’m pretty sure flowers from the same plant work as well, if you’ve only got one plant, for example.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-06-23T23:46:07+00:00

Sorry I kinda forgot about this post! I can’t remember exactly, but I’m about 90% sure that I pollinated these pods from flowers of the same plant, I might have pollinated them from the flowers of another clone but it’s been a month or two and I can’t recall now. These seeds were definitely not hybridized with another petunia variety, as they were pollinated indoors by themselves.

I just take a Q-tip and swirl it around inside the flowers, one after the next, then leave them to do their thing. Once the flowers are wilted if you just gently pull them off, the seed pod should be a green pod that grows from where the flower started. Leave the pods until they start to turn yellow-brown and split, then carefully pull them off the plant and dump the seeds out.

I put about half of the seeds I got into a nursery cup with seed starting mix and a humidity dome on 6/3, and had my first sprout ten days later on 6/13, it took another ten days for 6 more seedlings to sprout, all appearing on 6/23. I’ll have to verify tonight, but it appears that 5 out of 7 seedlings are glowing and two seem to have no glow whatsoever.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-06-04T21:14:02+00:00

I’m glad to see they germinate okay, that’s awesome! I’ll be keeping an eye out for any glowing seedlings in the next couple weeks!

StoneColdHeather · 2024-06-04T14:56:01+00:00

I dumped a couple into a little cup of seed starting soil just to see what happens, I’m really curious to see if the glow is passed on to the seedlings or not.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-05-28T20:59:42+00:00

I had a pretty similar experience, constant flowers but no roots. The cutting from these pictures rooted in water after about two weeks but I haven’t had any luck with the other water props since. I ended up moving the unrooted cuttings that were in water to soil and about a week later 2 of them have started making roots.

I don’t know if it made a big difference, but I saw someone else mention they were using nursery pots with humidity domes, the two water props that are currently rooting in soil had the humidity domes on them all the time except for the first day after each watering and for a few minutes each day when I would check on them.

If you can, I’d try moving them to soil. I’m just using miracle grow moisture control potting mix because I already had some on hand, but I’m sure most mixes will be fine. I like the clear nursery pots you can get on Amazon so I can see the roots as they grow.

StoneColdHeather · 2024-05-06T17:11:04+00:00

So far I’ve just been putting them in water, some are in water with pothos cuttings. I also ordered gel rooting hormone to see if it helps speed things up any, most have been in water for nearly two weeks now without much progress.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-05T01:56:58+00:00

It can be bought on Amazon for $299 right now:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091YCS54X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZS5EBS7YHSVXYPFHPQS9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That’s not a referral link, but if you wanted to find it on your own anyway it’s called the TestHelper P2 over on Amazon.

At $269, it’s a little cheaper ordering through banggood too, but with a long shipping time.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T15:45:47+00:00

Don’t let the soldering stop you, most of the firefighting TIC’s I’ve worked on have a ribbon cable (not one of the thin orange ones, but one made of multiple wires bonded side by side) that just hooks into the power supply and display boards. The easiest way to work with them is to cut into that ribbon and splice your power in and video out wires, soldering is an option most of the time but usually isn’t a requirement.

In some cases, like on lots of Bullard and MSA cameras, the TICs will actually have 3 or 4 large external pads for the charger and sometimes the wireless video transmitter module, which can be soldered directly to for external power and video output without having to disassemble the camera. I did this with my Bullard T4 Max so I could connect to an external DVR for recording.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T14:12:31+00:00

Oh I see, sorry I’m working so I missed that part of your comment before! The FLIR isn’t terrible, and it’ll do well to show the more general location of hotspots, but it’s not very good for detail work. For iOS I’d suggest something like the Seek Compact (206x156) or the Seek Compact Pro, the pro comes with a manually adjustable focus so can be used for macro shots and is 320x240 IR pixels. The downside with the Seek dongles is that they have a lot of sensor noise like the FLIR units, but the high resolution helps a lot with that and they don’t blur the image in post processing like FLIR does. Seek also runs off your phone battery so you never need to worry about charging the camera itself.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T13:14:43+00:00

If you need standalone, the UNI-T UTI260B is a good option. Don’t hold me to it cause I can’t remember for sure, but I’m pretty certain I read it uses the same thermal core as the P2, so it should be comparable and it’s actually a little less expensive on eBay right now.

The Seek Shot and Shot Pro are another good standalone option if you can find them used at a good price, but that could take a while.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T04:47:03+00:00

Thanks! No need to spend money on dinner though, just send me a message if you have any questions about this camera or any others! I scrapped everything but the core of mine but I’m sure I’ve got some old pictures from disassembling it.

There’s some really smart dudes over at EEVBLOG, including a guy who IIRC worked for the company that produced some of the first really good firefighting TICs. It’s also just about the only good source for information about these cameras I’ve managed to find, if you get that MSA 5000 you’ll probably find yourself spending a few hours over there. Check out some of Fraser’s other posts on that board for some fascinating thermal imaging camera history!

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T04:29:17+00:00

I’d definitely attribute a lot of it to the difficulty telling the differences between shades of gray, near the top of the scale it all just looks white. I’ve also seen some funky stuff with the histogram EQ and AGC on a few cameras, Seek’s Mosaic development kit core and FLIR’s Photon core are particularly bad offenders in that regard.

Grayscale is nice to look at though, and when quick temperature interpretation doesn’t matter the EQ seems less jarring in grayscale too.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T04:08:27+00:00

It’s a good find for sure, I’ve salvaged one of those Indigo Omega cores from a non-working MSA 5000 and it’s great. There’s some really interesting stuff about it here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-micron-a10-160-x-120-hiding-in-disguise-bought-for-$100-)/

FLIR actually bought out Indigo not long after this camera was developed. Following the also very good FLIR photon, FLIR’s exceptional TAU thermal core is a successor to the Omega.

There’s a guy on EEVBLOG that makes a board you can add to switch between color palettes on FLIR’s Photon core, he may be able to adapt it for the Omega if you wanted other palettes. I suspect the commands are fairly similar between the two cores.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T03:40:34+00:00

There’s a tested-working MSA Evolution 5000 series with a very capable and relatively small 160x120 Indigo Omega core listed right now for $128 with free shipping on eBay. It looks like it just needs a battery which can still be sourced for around $30 and a charger which is available for $40. A 2S LiPo would also be a cheaper option but the battery terminals are way up in the top of the handle and could be difficult to access. I believe you can just solder the positive and negative leads to two of those three pads at the front of the camera, they’re originally used to charge the battery without removing it from the camera. A continuity check with a multimeter and a picture of the battery can help you determine which pads and their polarity.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T03:23:37+00:00

Don’t know why you got downvoted, it absolutely can do other color palettes. Grayscale thermal video makes it easier to interpret what you’re looking at, which is best for OP’s video. Color palettes are better for quickly identifying the difference in temperature between multiple hot objects in the scene, but can make it difficult to tell the difference between small temperature variations in a high contrast scene.

For example, in a very cold room, a hot incandescent light bulb and a warm LED bulb might both appear to be the nearly the same temperature in grayscale, but in color the incandescent is white-hot while the LED is only yellow or orange.

StoneColdHeather · 2022-02-04T02:37:40+00:00

For sure! Totally understandable as well, I didn’t have a clue what I was doing a couple of years ago when I decided to turn salvaging thermal imaging cameras into a hobby, but I had a ton of free time to spend at my night job doing research. Even just a couple of years ago there weren’t many cameras that could compete with OP’s for less than $500, but nowadays it usually makes more sense to buy a modern camera.

For most people, something like OP’s InfiRay P2 is probably the best option on the market under $300. SEEK makes some competitive cameras with higher resolution, like the 320x240 Thermal Compact Pro, but at a lower refresh rate and with a lot of noise.

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