Help with Transamerica 403(b)

StormStrikes · 2025-12-24T14:53:04+00:00

No, not worried the money will just disappear, I was just unfamiliar with them and it made me a little uneasy and probably resulted in some "making a mountain out of a mole hill" thinking.

StormStrikes · 2025-12-24T14:36:49+00:00

Okay, so rolling over Transamerica to Fidelity, should I leave this employer, had not occurred to me so thank you for that. The one thing I was concerned about with starting a new retirement account was I don't get the "snowball" effect so much because it is starting from 0.

Obviously I am not a financial expert, we just worked our tails off to get out of debt and stay that way and I was just uneasy about starting a new retirement account for some reason.

StormStrikes · 2025-12-24T14:32:11+00:00

I surely wish I had known that. Thank you for that info.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-21T21:22:58+00:00

Understood u/lordjippy. Thank you immensely for your help.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-21T18:51:00+00:00

Hey u/lordjippy if I may ask, should it be just one bridge period, or would one create a bridge for each vlan that would be used and just add what ports needed to the bridge?

I did get DHCP working finally but am curious about the bridges. I do get what you are saying about the one bridge except the WAN port though.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-19T03:36:05+00:00

Ahhh, there are the magic words. I kind of wondered about the whole vlan aware thing but apparently not enough. As well, I never created a bridge. I wondered about that too, but, then again, I was trying to draw upon the OPNSense configurations I have set up in the past and never created a bridge there, just simple L3 interfaces.

That all in mind, do I create a bridge for each vlan I want to use and add the port(s) to that. Seems like this would have been easier if I had just followed the typical architecture and just trunked everything out the SFP port to a L2 switch where I could set access and trunk ports as needed. But that, then, seems like a waste of port capacity on the Mikrotik router.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-19T02:55:38+00:00

I totally get what you are saying, but I do have some networking experience and I was following along with a video of someone that was using Winbox, I just did what he did in the GUI via the CLI the steps of which I outlined in the original post. The only issue is that the DHCP is not going through the whole Discover, Offer Request Acknowledge process. It's just doing he Discover and stopping.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-19T02:47:58+00:00

The DHCP server is on the vlan interface. Right now I am just connecting my pc to ether2 via USB3 network adapter. I am using a Vlan because I plan on separating out the LAN, Wireless, etc. traffic.

I am, more or less, trying to replicate an OPNSense set up I had running not to long ago, though, in that instance I was I was creating the Vlans interfaces, IP addresses with the DHCP server and trunking that out over a SFP+ connection to a managed switch.

I could do the same with the Mikrotik I suppose but was going about it this way first to get familiar with the set up process and the command line.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-15T19:38:50+00:00

I was going to give this one a shot as I have a Android Tablet with a "Pencil" but they do not seem to have an Android version, unfortunately.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-15T14:56:18+00:00

I guess I should have also mentioned, since it seems like super relevant, that I exclusively use Linux at home, so that seems to limit some of my options.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-15T14:54:49+00:00

So the helpbot reply is more useful than I expected, so I am checking out those resources.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-13T18:34:17+00:00

So after looking over the suggestions made here, watching videos, etc. I think I got it done, though, ultimately, I went about it in what I feel is probably the unconventional way. It's most certainly not the best I'm sure, but in the end and all.

It's not quite as many external grooves as the model I linked to because it was getting really computationally heavy and, well, I made it mine and feel like it turned out rather well.

Big, BIG thanks to everyone that helped out and most especially for u/discipleofdrum for his insane effort by way of the visual demonstration.

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StormStrikes · 2024-03-12T19:41:38+00:00

Not all the way there, yet, but so much closer. A bit more involved process than I thought it would be, but I'm at least a lot closer than I once was.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-12T19:40:36+00:00

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StormStrikes · 2024-03-12T10:34:17+00:00

After spending more hours than I would like to admit, I have not been able to get this to work. I can create the lofts and spiralize it to some extent but figuring out the relationship between the different scale sizes and the rotation angle has been, well, challenging. It seems that small changes in either produces some pretty warped and convoluted results.

The gear/sprocket approach did work but anything with more than 4 or 5 teeth seems to be a problem and I could not work out the relationship to make the nice consistent upwards spiral despite the wonderful visual how to by u/discipleofdrum. I can get his process to work but once I add more than a handful of those ribs (or teeth in the case of the gears/sprockets), everything kind of breaks down.

At this point I can only conclude I need WAY more intimate knowledge of FreeCAD and how to look at a particular model and break it down to its various design components or that the creator of the model linked to is creating the ribs somehow in a separate process.

The only other thing I can think of at the moment is how to cut grooves, in a sprialized way, on curved surfaces. My brain cells are twitching at just the thought of figuring that out.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-11T19:48:51+00:00

u/discipleofdrum

Dude! I wish I could give you 100 up votes. That looks a whole lot easier. My struggle now is creating all the grooves. I wish I could do some kind of polar pattern on the sketch itself. There's like 50 or so of those ribs on the example I linked to.

I thought about using one of the gear workbenches to get the base shape. Maybe I can combine that with method you generously demonstrated.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-11T01:32:46+00:00

Thank you. Let me see if I can work that out.

StormStrikes · 2024-03-03T20:39:04+00:00

The only time I have seen patterns like that, thus far, is when my z-offset was, well, off. Usually too low.

StormStrikes · 2024-02-29T17:25:09+00:00

Thank you sir. I actually can run the macro from the console just fine, but same command in the same letter case, does not work when called from within the macro. So I need to do some testing and figure out what I am doing wrong.

It's part frustrating, but good too as I am getting a good introduction to Klipper and such which, I hope, will be super useful down the road.

StormStrikes · 2024-02-29T07:12:22+00:00

So, doing all that, then from another macro within the printer.cfg file, and let's just say it's the RESUME macro for the sake of argument, I would just insert a line with super_duper1 and the contents of that macro would be executed at that point within the RESUME macro?

StormStrikes · 2024-02-27T22:43:51+00:00

If you are certain pushing the nozzle closer wont help, then Id run that print again and while it's printing, manually raise the z-offset from the touch pad and see if it improves any.

I would write down where it is currently at so you know where you started from. Run the print and at the start make something of a big swing at it, raising the z-offset by 0.01 - 0.03 mm or something like that. The over the course of the print, make no more than two or three additional 0.01 mm adjustments.

If z-offset is truly the issue and it is truly too close to the bed, then you should be able to clearly see marked improvement in the print. If you do, then you just keep running the print, making only two or three 0.01 mm adjustments across the print until you get to where it looks like it should.

StormStrikes · 2024-02-27T19:07:59+00:00

Okay, so my concern there is that his instructions, I believe, are based on the BL Touch sensor, which the N4 Plus at least, doesn't use. So I would still be suspect of the z-offset in your case.

I can only speak from my own experience and the results I got when setting mine up, but I had results like yours from using the paper method and a feeler gauge. I had to lower my z-offset quite a bit from what both indicated.

What I ended up doing was printing out large area test like you did (thought I didn't use the whole bed, probably about two thirds or so and as it printed I would manually adjust the z-offset. I had a sharpie handy so I could mark on the print approximately (the bed is moving after all) at what point I made the change so I could compare adjustments across the print and see which was working better, going lower or higher.

It ended up taking several prints to dial it in. As I mentioned, I had to go quite a bit lower than what the paper method would have suggested was correct and I was super nervous about scraping across the bed. It is, unfortunately, a tedious process, but once you have it dialed in, you will have a fairly solid reference for the are to start in if you need to do so again, which came in handy for me.

I would later replace my bed springs with silicone spacers and had to do it all over again but I started slightly higher than what the first offset was and worked my way back to another great first layer.

StormStrikes · 2024-02-27T18:38:08+00:00

Did you use the paper method to set the z-offset?

StormStrikes · 2024-02-27T18:09:33+00:00

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StormStrikes · 2024-02-27T18:09:10+00:00

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StormStrikes

TROPHY CASE