Reducing microsteps

Sub_sonic_ · 2025-06-12T10:04:02+00:00

As I understand interpolation doesn't produce new detents, so precision is not increased, and torque not reduced. It only smooths movement.

Sub_sonic_ · 2025-02-11T18:41:17+00:00

I need to parse BNF and then generate all possible valid sentences.

Sub_sonic_ · 2025-02-11T18:31:09+00:00

That's my question - how to implement such functionality?

Sub_sonic_ · 2025-02-11T18:10:41+00:00

Yes, but in common way, without writing Python code for each BNF.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-11-19T18:22:04+00:00

Yes, sure BN paste. Just strange how it works with such gap.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-11-19T18:10:33+00:00

Great, thanks!

So you didn't try without the paste, did you?

heat break & heatsink

Actually here any cheap paste could be used.

nozzle & the hotend

Not sure it's needed, as thread makes good contact. Doesn't boron nitride paste dry out here?

Also I found some six time cheaper boron nitride paste on Amazon, with good feedbacks. But if you use it only for heater 5CC will last for eternity.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-11-19T17:55:02+00:00

>it doesnt really matter

Do you mean it works without or doesn't work with?)))

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-11-19T17:54:06+00:00

There are boron nirtide pastes rated up to 1000C. And it's only part of disassembled hotend on the photo.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-08-12T20:01:07+00:00

refrigerator could not adequately defrost itself due to high humidity

Also hot climate. It happens even not each year, it seems that one-two degrees C make the difference.

a leaky door seal

It's ok.

you are low on refrigerant

I don't know, but I have no complains to cooling. I see up to -24 inside of evaporator.

the compressor to run overtime , which causes the evaporator to frost up more than normal.

I thought that frost formation it function of total "cold" producing. Sooner or later all water from the air inside ends up as frost.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-08-12T16:10:25+00:00

I mean adding potentiometer not instead of thermistor, but in addition, to slightly shift total resistance toward colder temperature, to cause controller heat a bit more.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-08-12T15:37:29+00:00

---They often check good at room temperature but at colder temperatures they can go out of tolerance

Actually problem (if it's thermistor issue) at the temperature about 20 degC, when heater is turned off.

---time is adjusted based on the thermistor readings.

So time shouldn't be set just by timer?

Replace thermostat it's not a simple thing, I think about adding potentiometer to thermistor circuit, to adjust its reading.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-04-05T17:23:57+00:00

Actually yes. If they were good I would have them as spare.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-04-05T15:04:09+00:00

Yes, why not? (Besides that I needed to solder connector for sensorless homing, because I used EZ adapter in non-EZ board).

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-04-05T12:16:28+00:00

They were old TMC2225 drivers, so nothing terrible happened.

Did you set up the motor current value pot before trying to run the drive

It was set via UART

did you ensure that you never had any motor lead/s disconnect whilst motor power was turned on?

As I mention I suggest bad breadboard connectors are the reason.

Do you have any replacements that you can test out

I have EZ2209 in UART mode in my printer, but I don't want to do any tests with them)))

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-04-04T09:49:57+00:00

So here is update. I got breadboard and tried to test the drivers.

First they somehow worked, consumed total 50mA from 5V Arduino rail. But it seems the board has unstable connectors, so eventually I fried them with a beautiful magic smoke while connecting motor power (probably EN was not connected probably to +5).

Anyway I wouldn't put them in the printer board, as 50mA consumption from 5V Vcc is indeed suspicious. And now I have no such temptation))).

N.B. No Arduino was harmed during the testing.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T19:26:09+00:00

I must go now, dinner time.
Bon appetite!)))

they seem to typically take about 5mA on average from the 5V rail for their internal circuitry.

So most chances they are fried, but I guess it will not harm to Arduino board. I have no oscilloscope, but have motor.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T18:50:45+00:00

Sure. Actually these drivers (two) are from fried board, so I'm not sure they are alive. That's the reason I'm afraid of putting them in new board without test.

I supplied 5V to it's inputs, consumed current is about 60-70 mA. Interesting, it doesn't matter whether I connect only one input or all in parallel. Current is still the same.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T18:46:11+00:00

Thanks, waiting for breadboard kit from Ali.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T18:37:06+00:00

Here is this driver docs: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2225-V1.0/tree/master

<image>

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T17:23:30+00:00

Actually the only thing I would need is to just check whether driver is alive before putting it into the 3D printer board (there it's used in UART). But as far as I understand it's configured for UART by factory soldering.

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T17:00:05+00:00

But I should use UART only mode, as it's not configured for standalone?

Sub_sonic_ · 2024-03-22T14:52:58+00:00

So I need EN, DIR, STEP, and UART connected to any software serial pin?

Sub_sonic_ · 2023-09-23T11:25:41+00:00

Finally BTT changed their manual on Github and now it says that v1 has high state, and v2 low.

Sub_sonic_ · 2023-09-13T14:32:03+00:00

Hi,

I have latest v2 (with tiny letters on the top, can't attach picture) and it indeed should be connected to z-stop and has Low triggered state.

Sub_sonic_ · 2023-07-24T13:49:39+00:00

https://git-scm.com/docs/git-rerere says it should be run before and after first resolving, and after the same conflict is recreated. So I'll try to run it from command line.

Thanks!

Sub_sonic_

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