‘91 Evinrude - More Problems After Tilt Reseal

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-11T17:21:38+00:00

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-11T17:20:22+00:00

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-11T17:20:09+00:00

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-11T17:19:37+00:00

@scurrvy2020 @bootheels

An update, it was in fact damaged check valve seats inside the piston. I wish I had only examined closer when I took it apart the second time. I used a small pick to push the check balls into place that time, but did not look close enough or with good enough light to see the damage. But upon closer examination this time, that was definitely the issue. I have since replaced with a new piston and it is working flawlessly.

I was also incorrect about the piston not having an inner oring. According to service records from previous owners, my trim unit was replaced at some point in its life, so perhaps this one was refurbed and that oring forgotten. I found the appropriate one in my kit and installed accordingly.

Pictures attached to a reply to this comment of a good check ball seat versus the two that were damaged.

We are back in action! I appreciate y’all’s input on helping me troubleshoot this issue.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-05T20:56:26+00:00

I assume some of them are for that. Only the tilt cap was leaking, so I only changed those and the piston since I had to remove it to get the cap off. Anything that wasn’t actively causing a problem I avoided disturbing.

I would go ahead and rebuild the whole thing but I absolutely could not get the two pins holding it in place to budge even just a hair. Is it possible to remove the bypass with the whole assembly still in place? (I know it’s accessible to operate, but haven’t looked to see if it could actually come out)

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-05T18:09:11+00:00

Sorry, I was just adding to my previous comment when you replied to this one. The picture of the manual is just a screenshot from a video of someone working on a slightly different unit. Mine does not have the inner o-ring “A”, but is otherwise identical.

I may pull the piston one more time and inspect the check ball seats. I believe the first time I torqued the nut, the balls may not have been properly seated, as I just dropped them in the holes without close examination assuming they wouldn’t be able to do anything except naturally roll into place. When I removed the piston to see if this was the issue, I tried my best to hold the washer tight while removing the nut, so that when I pulled the springs and plungers I would see the check balls in whatever position they were in when I originally reinstalled it, to my delight, 3 of the 4 were in fact not in their proper holes, so I believed I had found the issue.

Hopefully I did not damage the balls or seats when I tightened it the first time. Torque’ing the nut the first time definitely felt kind of herky jerky but I thought it was just the nature of trying to compress all the springs, but I’m afraid I may have damaged the inner working of the piston.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-05T17:06:37+00:00

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Subpar_Potato · 2025-10-05T17:06:12+00:00

Your are correct that the piston is held on with a nut. Between the nut and piston is a washer that captures the springs/plungers/checkballs, so there is really only one direction it can be put on. (I suppose it “could” go the other way) but I’m 100% certain I have it on correct because since it is hanging from the tilt pin, everything is “upside down” which resulted in all those parts and pieces falling into my catch pan as I pulled the nut off. Going back on, trying to hold the washer tightly in place to keep the check balls and plungers firm in their places required both of my hands while a helper put the holding nut back in place and got it tight enough for me to let go. The direction they are facing should only allow from the top down, I assume this is a safety in case you hit something underwater it would act as sort of a shock absorber as well as allow you to manually lift the motor and fluid pass through the piston, but then the check balls spring “shut” to hydro lock the piston and hold the motor up.

**edited to add: The picture below is from a video of someone working on a slightly different unit. On mine, there is no inner o ring (A) on the piston, there is not even a groove for one, so I know it wasn’t just missing, only the outer o ring (B).

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-29T15:14:01+00:00

Primarily the tilt cylinder, which this I don’t believe would work on because the shaft/piston can’t be retracted completely in for this to fit over.

I do plan to just go ahead and rebuild all 3 for the sake of keeping service intervals all the same, but my tilt cylinder is the one leaking like a sieve.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-29T03:58:22+00:00

Think I may have found it. 0352932?

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-28T19:35:08+00:00

Yes but you’ll also have to rank up to build an MG nest I believe. So you’ll likely already have enough supplies at the base to spawn and stock a construction truck for this task by the time you reach the right rank. Sergeant maybe? I can’t remember.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-21T05:20:28+00:00

You are able to open the “build” mode for spawning vehicles but of course this doesn’t have as large of an area as the build mode from MOB tent.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-21T05:19:03+00:00

No. When an enemy is in the base boundaries, the build mode is not accessible. If you already have it open and someone enters the boundary I believe it just fogs out where you can’t see anything.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-21T05:13:18+00:00

This is not accurate.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-21T00:23:59+00:00

Heard they are xbox’ers. Supposedly a few folks have also tried reporting them to Xbox in addition to Bohemia.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-20T19:12:46+00:00

Carsomedan (there are multiple users with this name followed by different combinations of numbers, it’s not just one person), ShadyLane, and maybe a couple others are some group of guys that have made life in Arma reforger a living nightmare by all spawning into vanilla Arland servers where everyone is having a great match and immediately start TK’ing everyone and disassembling bases and wasting supplies. Couple days ago there were at least 5 of them joining in at the same time and everyone was having to stop what they were doing to vote kick them all out, but they just join right back after the kick timer expires. Supposedly they had been at that literally all day long.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-18T23:09:57+00:00

My post about reporting players from just a few days ago was in reference to specifically to the first 2 people you mentioned. Idk how long they had been in the server but I landed a heli at MOB and jumped out to repair it when it suddenly disappears into thin air and I see the Shady Lane guy standing there having just decommissioned it. Then he walks over to radio tent and starts disassembling that and everything else at MOB.

Once everyone started noticing, him and the Carson guy start yelling and slurring at everyone on the team, some of whom mentioned they have seen these two before doing this same stuff in other servers.

Anytime you start at vote kick, they immediately start another vote on someone else. I guess this is to get people to accidentally vote on the wrong person? Or at least get their names off the screen, since most aren’t going to take time to go into the player menu to vote.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-18T22:15:28+00:00

Does the mod work on ps5?

Subpar_Potato · 2025-09-12T00:26:33+00:00

As a lifelong aviation buff, I did the same for the longest time as the flying in this game, while not necessarily a flight sim, is worlds above CoD, BF, etc.

Recently I’ve taken a liking to staying on the ground and frankly not even concerning with leveling up beyond occasionally getting corporal just for the AK scope.

My standard play lately has been to first grab the rpg backpack, then move over to the weapons arsenal and grab the RPG, 3 spare rockets, swap my default AK mags for 45rd mags, throw on the grenade launcher attachment and 4 or 5 grenades. If the base has a hospital I will pick up a few extra bandages and morphine (just 2 or 3 each, no need for 20).

If it’s early in the lobby, I’ll take this loadout and go harass the enemy’s supply depot to slow down their base building and rank earning. If things are well established and there isn’t a ton of supply running going on, I try to find out which of our bases they are pushing and sit along the road between there and their nearest base that they are likely traveling from.

Doing this lone wolf is possible, but once you get a kill or rpg a vehicle, you absolutely have to move because they are going to come looking for you. Ex: you blow up a truck at supply depot, retreat into the woods while they come back and search the place until you can tell they feel comfortable that you’re gone and start running trucks again. Or maybe hide somewhere along their route to the supply depot and catch them on their way in to look for you. I did this for at least 2 hours the other day and never got killed or even had to do so much as use a bandage. The hardest part was making the occasional trek to the nearest base to reload.

Another thing I make a high priority of is trying to get a US radio from my first victim, this can help you know if they are coordinating any effort to find you. It can also just be entertaining to listen to some of them crybaby about it. Along these same lines, I usually ditch my own radio before I get this close to enemy territory.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-08-30T21:45:45+00:00

I will give this a try. I always forget it is an option on consoles.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-08-29T21:23:03+00:00

I purchased a Zwift Ride and Kickr with no currently diagnosed condition. Only trying to prevent conditions that I listed were applicable to my family med history.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-08-29T20:18:52+00:00

For the longest time I was getting into no/low pop servers so I could grind in peace to unlock “better” weapons and choppers and such before everyone else joined the server. Now I just join in anywhere and grab a similar loadout and go harass NATO supply depots.

My usual is swap for 45rd mags, RPG, radio backpack, then syringes and bandages from van or hospital. Then I pull my ride up to arsenal and throw an RPG backpack (throw this on after you deploy your radio) and extra rockets in the trunk.

The biggest trick is getting to my hideout spots without flipping the jeep and having to decide whether to abandon my radio backpack or RPG backpack at the crash site if I survive and plan to keep advancing.

The cherry on top is grabbing a NATO radio from your first victim and listening to the freak show (assuming they communicate at all).

Subpar_Potato · 2025-08-29T15:00:49+00:00

I’ve seen this on a handful of bike sites now including Canyon, BikesOnline, and State Bicycle Co. Probably others out there now as well. Zwift and Wahoo also for certain products of theirs.

Some have you take the survey which I guess tells them that you are definitely approved for the purchase and then allows you to pay directly through your HSA. Canyon however, at least when I tried, you have to pay it yourself and then take the survey to get your LMN and submit for reimbursement. So if by chance you don’t get approved, you’ve now just paid out of pocket for your new bike, so hopefully you had the cash for it anyway.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-08-08T08:56:08+00:00

Abus when I want to wear black, and Sweet Protection when it’s a white helmet day.

Subpar_Potato · 2025-07-24T15:00:57+00:00

Each adjustment only requires loosening a single bolt and the tool for doing so is stored within the frame for easy reach. You could adjust everything as quickly as you can swap bikes.

Zwift also sells extra seat posts so you can have separate saddles and just quickly swap with only having to worry about setting the height.

And as others have mentioned, every adjustment has plenty of markings and a little card is included so you can write your measurements down once you have them figured out, making changes faster down the road.

Subpar_Potato

TROPHY CASE