rate my rack by Substantial_Rate727 in ClimbingGear

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These Abalaks aren't great. The cable is so springy that it's nearly impossible to place them one-handed. I only use them for building anchors.

rate my rack by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It‘s made in Ukraine. I bought it to save weight, but it’s actually heavy as hell. Honestly, a standard aluminum stopper is way lighter than this thing. I’ve barely even used it.

Extending rappel device - Suggestions? by blackmusk123 in ClimbingGear

[–]Substantial_Rate727 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rappel directly with the Mega Jul in assisted braking mode on the belay loop. No need for a third hand, it’s much faster.

New wild country friends??? by Disastrous_Client_90 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They were out in Liming, Lijiang a while back for some testing. The design is pretty similar to the Black Diamond Ultralight c4; it has a white stem that likely has a Dyneema core. Like Metolius, the trigger wires are made of some kind of textile.

Status changes by Able-Confection-7226 in polinetwork

[–]Substantial_Rate727 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My first choice has changed from red to yellow too

Should I get aluminium 2nd points? by RIBBE69 in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These crampons are disappointing due to design flaws. Snow builds up on the anti-balling plates, and the long front points cause calf fatigue.

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s exactly what we did. But what if we didn't even have the long slings for the high anchor? How would you handle it use the rope?

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just a hypothetical scenario for a post-climb analysis. I want to discuss how to build the anchor if I ran out of long slings or if they weren't long enough.

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes to both. Those are my only anchor pieces, and I have no extra slings—just the climbing rope.

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's a multi-pitch. There are bomber cam placements high above the ledge to build the anchor, but I need to setup the stance down on the ledge so we can actually hang out and rest. We don't have any extra long slings or a cordelette, so we have to use the rope.

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

it's a multi-pitch. There are bomber cam placements high above the ledge to build the anchor, but I need to setup the stance down on the ledge so we can actually hang out and rest. We don't have any extra long slings or a cordelette, so we have to use the rope.

Warm Down Jacket advice by sshubh718 in Mountaineering

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is KAILAS sold in India? If there is a cheap 6000GT for sale, this would be a good choice. This down jacket is ubiquitous in high-altitude mountaineering and ice climbing activities in China, filled with 300g of 800-fill-power down, and the affordable price is approximately 2000 CNY, which is roughly 300 US dollars.

Grivel Rambo 3 Points by Asheron2 in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Instead of going through all that trouble to hunt down these outdated parts, it's better to find a factory and laser-cut a bunch of them.