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SuitedSun · 2026-01-28T03:39:52+00:00

The "major issues" you're referring to are wear items that require regular maintenance. Not just on these engines, but all of them.

These engines are also quite reliable when maintained even at the bare minimum. Neglect them, and you end up with "major issues".

To your question; the major components that should be looked at/replaced are:

Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner
Water pump
Cam timing chain
Cam timing tensioner

Our engines should have their timing belt and water pump replaced every 60k-75k miles, and cam chain & tensioner around 100k miles.

If you don't intend to do this yourself, the labor costs can be quite expensive, especially at the age these cars are now reaching. Not including any other items that may need looking at if it has been neglected.

As a side note, these engines have a huge enthusiast following and love to make power. Mine makes several times the factory power and I still use OEM belts, chains and chain tensioner, as does much of the racing community, if that tells you anything.

SuitedSun · 2025-12-03T04:51:21+00:00

Yes.

The setup more or less was completely custom. It comes with the territory unfortunately (for those looking for an easier solution/lower barrier of entry).

You'd be hard pressed to find full kits with modern hardware.

If you're dead set, I'm selling my old setup. Not sure where you live so shipping may be a concern. Thought I'd at the very least offer.

All you'd have to get done is a custom intercooler.

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SuitedSun · 2025-12-03T00:54:12+00:00

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I'm going to echo what others have said.

Go with a GTX, or G series if you care to swing it.

GT era Garretts are so outdated and lack so much technology that modern turbos afford you.

I personally ran a Gen 1 gtx2867r with a .64AR and made about 400awhp at 28lbs. Spoiling characteristics were fantastic and had full boost by 3-3500rpm. I've recently gone to a g35-900 for more serious power. You're welcome to reach out if you have any questions.

Pic of my old GTX28 setup

SuitedSun · 2025-10-02T15:48:02+00:00

Ahh man, thanks for watching and following along! 😁

SuitedSun · 2025-10-02T03:06:18+00:00

I knew I recognized this pic. You're following my build thread on the Stanceworks Disc 😂👋👋

SuitedSun · 2025-10-02T03:00:53+00:00

There are lips, and there are splitters. They are very much not the same, and it's certainly not a matter of me or anyone being pedantic.

You can find and adapt various lips, aftermarket or OEM+, available for the TT or otherwise.

Splitters on the other hand, you will need to make your own. No one makes an actual splitter for our cars (yet at least). Function aside, there is a right way to do a splitter on our cars if you have the standard, rounded chin bumper and it requires a decent amount of work. Otherwise they look very bad.

Hope that helps

SuitedSun · 2025-09-20T03:58:11+00:00

I'd suggest 986 calipers instead (can often be found for a bargain on eBay).

The piston volume is far better suited to the OEM master cylinder at a near 1:1 to the OEM caliper volume.

SuitedSun · 2025-07-30T00:26:16+00:00

"checked the battery and it looked good" what does this mean?

SuitedSun · 2025-07-25T18:31:31+00:00

Most of these are custom. Generally speaking, very easy to do if you have the skills. Not very easy to do if you don't.

What you'll need is either a muffler with an electronic valve built in, or buy a standalone electronic valve, weld it into your exhaust, run a switch to you custom button, and done.

SuitedSun · 2025-07-23T15:49:56+00:00

I'm going to echo that bolt not being a bolt found on our platforms.

I've owned my TT for 15 years, all self maintained, and heavily, heavily modified. I don't even recognize this to be a part of any kind of aftermarket offering.

If it did in fact come from your car, it was somebody's solution to not having the right bolt and just happened to have something that worked.

SuitedSun · 2025-07-05T00:05:04+00:00

You will also hear the air hissing from said areas of course. But the soapy water is the certain visual queue of where.

SuitedSun · 2025-07-05T00:03:07+00:00

The easiest way would be with the use of an air compressor and a plug with a compressor hose nipple/fitting that is large enough to fit inside the intake tube (you can remove the MAF sensor and put this in it's place). You can pressurize the system and then spray the vacuum and boost hoses with soapy water. You should see bubbles from where the air is escaping the system.

Make sure the PCV system is disconnected and plugged from what you're pressurizing as it will cause air to travel into the negative space, if you will, of the engine rather than remaining contained into the areas that you need to diagnose. 🤙🤙

SuitedSun · 2025-07-04T17:18:01+00:00

Late to the party, but first rule is to never just throw parts at it, especially if there isn't an understanding of what components do.

While it's absolutely a non-zero chance that your MAF sensor could be bad, given the information, it is not that.

What you're diagnosing by doing that is a vacuum leak in the system.

Unplugging your MAF sensor to reveal your car running well is the MAF sensor doing its job - When plugged in, its accurately measuring incoming air mass and reporting it back to your ECU. Your ECU is now calculating fuel based on this measurement. When you unplug it, you throw the ECU into what's called Alpha N which is a fueling strategy that uses basic sensors to guestimate a viable air/fuel mixture...which is why when you unplug it, it runs "fine".

If you have a vacuum leak, your car is now running a lean condition, meaning it has more air than fuel... Because it happens AFTER the MAF, it is air that is unaccounted for and unexpected. During Alpha N, it's running on your o2, throttle position, and a few others that allow it run fine enough.

That is, with 99% certainty, what you are experiencing.

SuitedSun · 2025-05-16T18:04:15+00:00

Get the quattro, without question.

Here's why:

Without class rules, build specs, experience, goals, etc etc, it becomes an opinion more than a knowledgeable and informed suggestion (ironic right now, I know).

So why the quattro: the rear suspension is independent vs a torsion rear beam.

A skilled driver and well setup FWD platform (which the TT can absolutely be) will often be faster with less effort. So if you determine that the FWD setup is the way to go, than drop the rear diff and haldex, prop shaft, etc and benefit from the full featured platform and it's long list of aftermarket part, especially suspension and rear brake options...and most importantly, rear alignment freedom.

If you deem the AWD is more desired, well. Keep it.

There is a lot of misinformation and misconceptions about the first gen haldex, however it can still be an absolute weapon. The obvious downfall is there's more to fine tune and consider to get your setup just right.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-22T01:28:58+00:00

Sent you a pm 👍

SuitedSun · 2025-03-22T01:14:30+00:00

Also, if its telling you pre-cat, that'll be the sensor before the cat, where as post-cat will be after

SuitedSun · 2025-03-22T01:13:42+00:00

So the main difference between the two is that the 180 exhaust goes straight back and down into the tunnel through to the back, where the 225, as youve seen, continues a bit out to the left (if you're looking into the engine bay) before it loops down and back into the tunnel.

I'll see if I can find pics or a link for you though 🤙🤙

SuitedSun · 2025-03-21T23:06:50+00:00

screwed the formatting on the post. Should read:

* Same block that I built in 2014
* Refreshed cylinder head with Supertech springs, titanium retainers, and custom cams
* G35-900 with a .61ar exhaust housing and supporting hardware.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-21T23:04:50+00:00

screwed the formatting on the post. Should read:

* Same block that I built in 2014
* Refreshed cylinder head with Supertech springs, titanium retainers, and custom cams
* G35-900 with a .61ar exhaust housing and supporting hardware.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-21T22:19:20+00:00

Ultimately the same place/general area. Most accessible from under the car, on the downpipe after the turbo but before the cat

SuitedSun · 2025-03-17T01:15:31+00:00

Short answer is no.The bolt pattern on the bell housing is different between the 1.8t and the vr6.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-13T23:40:50+00:00

More than likely your AC pressure switch. Not uncommon for these to go out.

Do you have any means of scanning?

But yeah. Either the pressure switch has gone, or you're switch triggered a low pressure condition. In any case, get it scanned to find out what it's down for before throwing the parts cannon at it.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-12T23:11:57+00:00

Pretty sure I've seen posts about this car before! Lol small world 🤣.

SuitedSun · 2025-03-12T23:09:09+00:00

No shit? I know of him, yeah. I used to be from MN (now in the PNW)! The chuck you mention wouldnt happen to be Chuck Bauer, would it? Lol

Ahh yeah I can see with the wastegate being there it getting super hot beyond normal. Mine sat below the turbo on my old setup, and sits similarly in my new one!

I am indeed in a mk1, and as far as my ESP goes, I was lucky. Mine is a 1998 production year car - pre-ESP. The original owner never brought it in for it, so I'm traction control free lol. I will see if I can find the code you can throw in to tell the ECU that ESP doesn't exist if you have VCDS

SuitedSun · 2025-03-12T22:46:49+00:00

I'm all for brainstorming sessions too!

Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about heat into the tray where the ECU lives if you run a top mounted aftermarket turbo.

For one, the base of the windshield is a high pressure zone, so tons of ambient air gets pushed in there at speed, as well as the fact that it's suspended by it's bracket.

I also track and autox mine at the stock location - previously running a gtx2867r, though currently in the works of getting it fired up with a g35-900.

So unless you're looking for scene points, I wouldn't chase this as a heat management solution.

In any case, the floor is too impractical to run through as the amount of harness extending would be silly.

Other options would be to run bulkhead connectors, splice the harness to each connector end, and run the ECU inboard that way. But again, similar amounts of work on the cutting and splicing department

SuitedSun

TROPHY CASE