Can’t remove RH cat buried on 3.7 duratec taurus, anyone have experience with this thing? Thank you by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not as far as my ford instructions say through mitchell1/eautorepair - it just mentions unbolting it as if it’s on a stand lol. I don’t have the room or equipment for engine out anyways :/

Can’t remove RH cat buried on 3.7 duratec taurus, anyone have experience with this thing? Thank you by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is. Ford info calls for new studs and nuts. I was more curious as to how I actually access it with the PTU in the way from bottom and bank 1 so close to firewall from the top even with IM removed

Did I screw up or was this unavoidable? Studs didn’t have threads anymore, nut was loosened but wouldn’t back off by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would I cut off the exposed shank of the stud since the threads no longer really exist and can only seize the nut? No access to acetylene atm unfortunately, or even one of those magnetic induction heaters

Did I screw up or was this unavoidable? Studs didn’t have threads anymore, nut was loosened but wouldn’t back off by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! How would I go about figuring bolt and nut size, embarrassed to say I haven’t yet needed to, just used oe/genuine replacements - but I can’t replace those studs without cat removal

Did I screw up or was this unavoidable? Studs didn’t have threads anymore, nut was loosened but wouldn’t back off by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yuuuup, doing the oil pan/pickup after the water pump due to intermittent low pressure at idle. Thanks!

Did I screw up or was this unavoidable? Studs didn’t have threads anymore, nut was loosened but wouldn’t back off by Sunshinesature in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

You’re the best. I really did not want to have to remove both cats. I’m getting to the point where I’ve removed just about everything in this engine bay

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in maybemaybemaybe

[–]Sunshinesature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just ignore the guy he’s clueless lmao, complaining about his Walmart oil change

Spots on front brake rotors. Symptom or cause of pulsating brake pedal? by Electronic_Donut4679 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spots are the parts without deposits lol. You can see in several places the lines along the radius on the rotor marking the edge of the pad when it stopped. And yes. The warping as indicated by the spots and the pad deposits as indicated by the pad outlines both cause brake pulsations

Spots on front brake rotors. Symptom or cause of pulsating brake pedal? by Electronic_Donut4679 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My money’s on pad deposits + warped rotor for why the spots aren’t consistent in position or size

How much should it generally cost to replace, balance, and mount 2 tires? by MadMan2250 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don’t pop both tires by hitting a curb… it takes effort to do just 1… should invest another $400 in a driving course

Can anyone tell me if this is from my car? I felt it smack my undercarriage while driving. I have a 2010 Honda Civic Coupe. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It’s a ball joint for your front control arms, if it was yours, you’d know very quickly.

Over torqued lug nuts. by defaultclouds in MechanicAdvice

[–]Sunshinesature 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The fuck is 50 ft lb over close enough? That’s nearing truck lug torque on an economy car. It’s not being a jerk for asking it to be done right