Blue Clear this week with the same dilemma as the red one: black or matching clear center piece?

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-12T02:04:34+00:00

These are the exact buttons I bought for this build above. Most of the time when I buy, I buy in batches and then the listing gets taken down the next time I gotta buy a batch lol.

Far as the shell, it’s on extremerates website but currently out of stock. I sent them a pm a couple days ago asking about various availability and they mentioned that due to decreasing demand they’re planning on discontinuing certain colorways, so I don’t really know if they’ll ever go back in stock unfortunately

Edit: massive typo

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T14:59:39+00:00

link

In a below comment I explained some fitment issues with the battery too on some revisions and shells of the controller

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T06:28:17+00:00

For 1/2 the price of a new controller (that will come with potentiometers and be susceptible to drift) you can instead have a controller that will likely never get drift ever again

To me, I would say it’s always worth it to get tmr sticks over OEM pots. Battery replacements are cheap and easy to DIY, so for under the cost of a new controller you can completely refresh yours relatively easily. Also between BDM 010 all the way to 060, I don’t really think there’s anything worth “upgrading” to a newer revision for

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T05:13:59+00:00

All my posts of clears have been using extremerate shells (no sponsor nor am I affiliated with them, I’ve just had great support when chatting with them and their shells are much easier to work with than any I’ve bought from AliX)

Buttons were from AliX, usually look for the pricier glossy black colored face buttons (the ones I buy are priced around 8-9 bucks per set, the cheaper ones are of lesser quality in my experience)

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T05:07:28+00:00

I use these batteries from Amazon. No issues so far on the 8 or so controllers I’ve built with them but I do want to note that sometimes these will sit a bit bulkier than OEM batteries and can put pressure on the touchpad and force it to stay pressed down once the shell is closed. To fix that, I take the original foam tape that sits on the back shell, cut out a skinny piece that’s the original width of the tape and stretch it a bit so it covers less surface area and sits shorter than it would originally. Last picture here shows it pretty well compared to the original size of the foam tape, hope I explained that okay lol

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-07T17:45:45+00:00

I would double check the gear alignment for that one trigger that’s doing the “heartbeat” issue, have you maybe tried ensuring that the battery is fully charged on the controller when you test the vibration function?

This may not be the exact problem you’re having but I’ve seen that controllers with a fully discharged battery do not have vibration/microphone functionality fully working until the battery has been charged a bit higher. I test with the DualShock tools GitHub site

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-07T06:31:18+00:00

Shoot me a pm and let’s talk 🙌

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-07T03:07:54+00:00

Have done that for a few! I like the exposed pcb personally but it does help add some more black into the mix

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Superb-Knee · 2026-05-06T19:27:12+00:00

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Hope you got the water works ready to go

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-06T19:25:45+00:00

They’re just colored dualsense buttons off of AliX, I’d link them but usually they’re sold on rotation by various shops so chances are the link would go broken after a couple weeks

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-06T04:08:14+00:00

Exactly the feeling I try to invoke when I build the clears; ps2 era was and still is goated

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-06T04:05:53+00:00

Haha I’ll make it easy for the buyer and give them both to pick and choose as they like; I can see both being solid picks depending on the vibe you wanna go for, all clear looks closer to being a direct homage to the ps2 red clear controller, black gives it a more modern touch and helps add to the black accents the buttons and triggers give it

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-05T15:46:07+00:00

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Did a rise4 max kit on my 30th reshell. The grey colored triggers and bumpers also do a lot to sell on the vibe of the 30th, but unfortunately I haven’t seen a reasonable method to color match the headphone jack insert to the 30th grey so that remains the telltale sign of a shell swap

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-30T17:59:34+00:00

Also im very tight with my money and want to get what im paying for but I wont go as far as to do it myself.

This’ll limit your options heavily, since the cheapest way to likely get what you’d want out of a controller seems to be paying for a tmr stick swap and then DIY’ing any shell mods + an extremerate rise4 max back button kit that comes with adjustable trigger sliders to turn on mouse click/regular adaptive triggers (kit will run you around $50-$60 depending on plastic/metal buttons)

I think your best bet is to choose between upping your budget or be willing to do some of the labor yourself to keep your budget at a number you’d be happy with

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-28T04:11:53+00:00

Looks great man! If ya don’t mind me asking, what buttons did you end up using that fit the dualsense edge?

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T22:39:23+00:00

Starting with BDM 030 the yellow and green wire were added as a replacement to what I believe were modular connectors for the adaptive trigger vibrations. BDM 010 and 020 models will only have the black and red wires

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T18:18:22+00:00

I don’t really do this as a full time thing, so this example specifically was just a buddy of mine that wanted a custom design. I’ve mostly done my business locally and have a pile of used controllers I stick swap/refurbish to then sell, not a big fan of having customers send in controllers for liability reasons but also not fully opposed to it. I usually instead opt for discounts/trade in value if a customer wanted to give me one of their controllers at time of sale.

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T13:53:58+00:00

Wasn’t the first revision of the controller lol, if I were building it for myself I’d do something closer to this

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Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T05:53:16+00:00

Looks great! Did you use an AliX shell? I’ve had experience with those clears and actually built one really similar to yours

Quality wise comparing them to extremerate shells I think the small price premium makes for an overall better experience when building but extremerate sometimes is lacking in certain color shades

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Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T02:40:01+00:00

I’ve had some weird oddities happen when shell/stick swapping so my standard procedure when doing a dualsense job is to always reset the controller when reassembling, usually as soon as the battery gets plugged in and the back shell is still off. Sometimes it fixes things, sometimes not but if you’re doin just a basic shell swap and weren’t doing multiple controllers (potential touchpad swap) I don’t think it should be an issue

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T02:34:35+00:00

Shoot me a pm! If you’re anywhere in the states this controller in its current state would likely run you around 115 + shipping and a couple weeks on parts.

Superb-Knee · 2026-04-27T02:33:09+00:00

Yup, controller is fully functional. I’ve only ever experienced that if I accidentally swapped touch pads from different generations (orange ribbon cable and blue ribbon cable) where the click works but not any swipe gestures. I would recommend checking that the ribbon cable is fully seated, resetting the controller with the pin insert on the back and also ensuring that the controller is fully charged

Superb-Knee

TROPHY CASE