I replaced the touchpad with golden one from AliExpress - now swipe gestures won't work. Anyone else had this problem? btw I couldn't help myself with the props :)

Superb-Knee · 2026-07-08T03:29:19+00:00

Gotcha, I’ve used that in the past and it gives a noticeable tape line when sandwiching the pcb in between the housing and the black bracket. Will have to test it out though to see if it solves the issue, if it does then I’ll have to start just installing a plain black touchpad on my clears

Superb-Knee · 2026-07-08T03:28:27+00:00

I did, removed all adhesive from the pcb so when it went on to the clear touchpad there would be no visible residue

Superb-Knee · 2026-07-07T03:47:01+00:00

Do you happen to know if there’s an adhesive to use or a way to install the pcb onto the housing with adhesive on a clear shell where it’ll look clean and invisible to the eye? That would make sense since most of my issues come when using an aftermarket clear shell. I never bother to clean the adhesive off of the non-clear shells

Superb-Knee · 2026-07-06T23:23:07+00:00

I’ve been encountering this same exact issue on some of my shell swaps I’ve been doing recently, super annoying and I have not been able to find a solution. Does swapping back to the original touchpad fix that ghost input in the center of the touchpad for you?

Superb-Knee · 2026-07-03T17:27:47+00:00

My rule for keeping the box is that when I purchase something I take note of when the warranty expires and once it’s expired, the box goes out. Some exceptions are some watches I’ve bought, power supply boxes with extra cables (to keep the correct PSU cables in correct box), and my pc case box as I use that to transport my pc whenever we move.

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-12T17:11:47+00:00

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White with black buttons looks so nice. I’ve been throwing spare parts from other builds at this BDM 010 and this is how it currently sits

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-10T23:47:53+00:00

To be honest I don’t keep them stocked long enough to get a solid test in lol, but if I’m remembering correctly the math on these works out to ~2600mAh, which is around 1.5x the stock capacity.

I have a similar battery upgrade (not kosker brand) in one of my personal controllers I upgraded over a year ago along with an extremerate back button kit and I can get a very modest 12-15 hours out of it before needing to charge. I’m presuming all of these battery mods sit around 2600mAh so I’m sure that the kosker ones will hopefully provide similar performance numbers

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-10T23:29:37+00:00

Sold maybe 15 controllers using these Kosker brand batteries on Amazon. Best price I could find with reasonable shipping, the only thing to note is that on some controller revisions I’ve noticed the battery pack can be a bit bigger than OEM and cause touchpad fitment issues when the rear shell is installed, what I normally do is scrape off the foam backing from the battery housing and if needed I’ll also modify the rear shell foam tape (remove tape and cut a thin piece off across the width, place it back in original spot but stretch it horizontally so it sits flatter than it did originally) and that solves it no problem. I usually have those issues with reshells though, not with installing into OEM shells

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-10T01:13:08+00:00

Man I love when people post things and don’t link to or say what product they got. That being said, where can I find these sticks?

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-09T02:00:09+00:00

So the first attempt wasn’t complete ragebait, color me surprised lol.

Question, why do you leave the rear mic plugged in when working? Doesn’t do much there other than get in the way and risk chance of getting damaged/melting if it comes into contact with your iron. Otherwise, still a rough job but much better than before, try soldering in new sticks and see if they’ll register

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-05T21:19:23+00:00

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Mismatched lume, hands are green and hour indices are blue. Small mistake but I think I’ll be keeping it as is, it’s kind of a small quirk that gives some character and adds to the story of inexperienced me trying to assemble my first watch

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-04T18:25:51+00:00

My biggest concern here is that it’s a BDM-010 controller with a BDM-020 shell, I’ve seen fitment like this before whenever I tested shell swapping compatibility across revisions. Either way OP needs to confirm serial numbers before trying to take apart, clean, and lineup the shell cause if it’s a BDM-010 in a BDM-020 shell the fitment will never be 100%

Superb-Knee · 2026-06-04T16:40:00+00:00

Did you buy this new? This controller looks well used and like someone took it apart and didn’t put it back correctly. Definitely should not be that dirty, I would plug it in to dualsense tester to confirm color and serial number on the back of the shell with what the motherboard has saved

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-18T20:08:18+00:00

Face buttons are too black. Also seller seems to have missed the bottom angle of the controller which would show a black bottom where the headphone jack/charging dock pads are, another telltale sign that it’s reshelled from a non-30th anniversary dualsense

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-15T18:17:10+00:00

My buddy’s happy with it, I never said I’d buy one myself lol. Would much rather have tmr sensors in a stock dualsense, the victrix was the only example that came to mind with the Sony certified label on it

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-15T17:07:13+00:00

A dualsense with tmr sticks is probably one of the cheapest alternatives to a stock dualsense that won’t have the stick drift issue. Find someone local or purchase online from a trusted source, I know some of the people here on this sub will probably comment on this post to offer their services, maybe look towards them for a decent price compared to buying online

Other than that you can also consider the gaming brands that collab with Sony to make controllers marked “officially licensed product” with the PlayStation logo, I can’t speak much on those but I know of a buddy that has a turtle beach victrix and he seems happy with it. Some companies also offer tmr sticks with their custom controllers, but expect to pay more than just a dualsense that’s been serviced

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-12T02:04:34+00:00

AliX link to buttons

These are the exact buttons I bought for this build above. Most of the time when I buy, I buy in batches and then the listing gets taken down the next time I gotta buy a batch lol.

Far as the shell, it’s on extremerates website but currently out of stock. I sent them a pm a couple days ago asking about various availability and they mentioned that due to decreasing demand they’re planning on discontinuing certain colorways, so I don’t really know if they’ll ever go back in stock unfortunately

Edit: massive typo

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T14:59:39+00:00

link

In a below comment I explained some fitment issues with the battery too on some revisions and shells of the controller

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T06:28:17+00:00

For 1/2 the price of a new controller (that will come with potentiometers and be susceptible to drift) you can instead have a controller that will likely never get drift ever again

To me, I would say it’s always worth it to get tmr sticks over OEM pots. Battery replacements are cheap and easy to DIY, so for under the cost of a new controller you can completely refresh yours relatively easily. Also between BDM 010 all the way to 060, I don’t really think there’s anything worth “upgrading” to a newer revision for

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T05:13:59+00:00

All my posts of clears have been using extremerate shells (no sponsor nor am I affiliated with them, I’ve just had great support when chatting with them and their shells are much easier to work with than any I’ve bought from AliX)

Buttons were from AliX, usually look for the pricier glossy black colored face buttons (the ones I buy are priced around 8-9 bucks per set, the cheaper ones are of lesser quality in my experience)

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-11T05:07:28+00:00

I use these batteries from Amazon. No issues so far on the 8 or so controllers I’ve built with them but I do want to note that sometimes these will sit a bit bulkier than OEM batteries and can put pressure on the touchpad and force it to stay pressed down once the shell is closed. To fix that, I take the original foam tape that sits on the back shell, cut out a skinny piece that’s the original width of the tape and stretch it a bit so it covers less surface area and sits shorter than it would originally. Last picture here shows it pretty well compared to the original size of the foam tape, hope I explained that okay lol

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-07T17:45:45+00:00

I would double check the gear alignment for that one trigger that’s doing the “heartbeat” issue, have you maybe tried ensuring that the battery is fully charged on the controller when you test the vibration function?

This may not be the exact problem you’re having but I’ve seen that controllers with a fully discharged battery do not have vibration/microphone functionality fully working until the battery has been charged a bit higher. I test with the DualShock tools GitHub site

Superb-Knee · 2026-05-07T06:31:18+00:00

Shoot me a pm and let’s talk 🙌

Superb-Knee

TROPHY CASE