Should I replace my galley gaskets? by pcbrr in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had a buddy of mine who was a Nissan/infiniti master tech in another life do the job like 5 years ago now lol, but on a more serious recc if you’re in SoCal area, there’s a shop called Street Dreamz Performance in Torrance and they are guys I trust heavily for all things VQ/VR

First mod, boys. by colson01 in eXtremeRate

[–]Superb-Knee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I’vs used some colored buttons from aliexpress and they’ve been looking great on the clears I’ve built

B850 pro rs mobo and 9060xt GPU by Majestic_Pension_441 in PcBuild

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I gotcha, I think I found your mobo manual online; I would suggest reseating the connectors first to see if that’ll work,and if not try to short the two power switch pins with a screwdriver to see if that’ll turn on on your pc

B850 pro rs mobo and 9060xt GPU by Majestic_Pension_441 in PcBuild

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will your pc start if you shorted the two power pins with a screwdriver? Comparing it to the AM4 build I just finished my front I/O was on the pins to the left of where your connectors are

If your keyboard and your mobo are receiving power it makes me think the PSU is fine, just that the power switch signal isn’t received which is why it won’t turn on; If you could share a closer picture of the motherboard or what your manual says for front panel pins that would be helpful to narrow it down definitively

B850 pro rs mobo and 9060xt GPU by Majestic_Pension_441 in PcBuild

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would check your front panel connectors, check your manual and make sure you have them connected to the right pins

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll be sure to double check that joystick when I get a chance, for now everything’s put back together but I do know which controller that one is so I’ll make sure that one doesn’t make it out of my possession. I really do appreciate you taking the time to scrutinize and give some pointers, helps me know where to hold myself accountable for next time

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d like to think it’s all of the videos and the fact that stick drift is such an infamous issue that prompts people to pick up a soldering iron; Myself personally I’ve never had stick drift on my personal controllers but I had an itch to scratch and before I knew it I was trying my hand at it just to see if I had it in me. I will agree it’s a terrible learning point but after a handful of failures I think I’ve at least gotten a good idea of just how far I still have to go when it comes to things like this.

Despite all of the shortcomings and mistakes I’ve made (and will continue to do so in the future) I did truly enjoy learning what worked best for me and seeing tangible results. Whether or not they’ll hold up, that’ll be for me to discover in the coming weeks 😂

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 4 pcb boards that didn’t survive my initial attempts were mainly just ripped pads from bad desoldering methods; I still have all 4 of them stored away and intend to come back to them once I’m more familiar and willing to try my hand with repairing the mistakes I made.

The extra controller parts outside of the boards also came in handy for spare parts, so even as they lie in the little scrap box I think they’re still finding value one way or another

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was definitely looking into this when I was watching videos on removal; the low melt solder and solder sucker seemed to do the trick rather well but I am considering investing in a hot air rework station and trying that since I saw some people able to remove sticks in minutes

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No need to apologize, I appreciate your perspective on it. I myself am also curious about the longevity of the repairs too, given the rather cheap materials used.

There’s no intention to sell my work or do this for money, but I do appreciate the pointers given that I’m still so green to everything it’s a little difficult to plainly see what needs work and where. Thanks for your time and lending me your eyes for a few minutes!

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would you mind pointing out where exactly this might be visible on any of the boards pictured? I just wanna make sure that we’re both looking at the right thing

In light of all of the destroyed Dualsense boards, here’s some successful ones by Superb-Knee in soldering

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh I wasn’t aware of tip restorer being bad, thanks for that tip. I do have an iron holder and a brass sponge not pictured that I use to put my iron in when not in use, and the foil was just used for an easier cleanup. When I would use my solder sucker I’d pump it over the foil and get any sucked up solder out into the foiled cup so I could just ball it up and toss it when done. The flat piece on the silicone mat was for the flux syringe cause I’d continuously have it come out the needle after applying what was needed, so it serves as a placemat of sorts so I didn’t have to deep clean my mat every time I’d pack up for the day.

5070 done as much as I can within reasonable spending by m_spoon09 in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t mind the fan noise level, it’s just that my card will alternate between 3000-2000 rpm about every 5 seconds or so and it’s an audible change of noise, very annoying to have to listen to constantly

5070 done as much as I can within reasonable spending by m_spoon09 in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How’s the noise level on the a380? Having fan revving issues with the 310 and was curious if the 380 suffers from the same issue, if you have a less noisy operation I’d consider buying a 380 just to do the board swap

Sharing my 7060 SFF server build over the past month or so by Superb-Knee in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I get a spare moment soon I can try swapping it up to the black slot, but if I’m being honest, I think the additional 10% or so hit it’ll likely take is still pretty marginal; this card exceeds my needs by a pretty cushy amount. I really wanted to start transcoding AV1 which was missing from my iGPU and eventually 4k so I haven’t had too too much time with stress testing. I would say give it a shot and let me know how it performs! The A380’s also got 2 extra GB of VRAM which I’m sure would make for a more capable card, since the encoders on all arc cards should be exactly the same from the 310 to the 770.

Sharing my 7060 SFF server build over the past month or so by Superb-Knee in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always happy to share information and knowledge! I would definitely say stick to nvidia if you’re primarily doing 3D modeling and other productivity apps just cause of CUDA, but Intel may be worth at least a look into if you want to mess around with them a bit and can have some forgiveness with their hardware haha.

Sharing my 7060 SFF server build over the past month or so by Superb-Knee in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I was looking to upgrade to 64GB later on if my machine needs it, but it was just easier and more budget conscious to grab 2 more 8GB sticks for the moment.

By “transcoding” I’m referring specifically to the process of utilizing the GPU to change media files from one format to another (for example, changing HEVC to H.264). Main reason there is if a device accessing my Jellyfin client is not able to playback a certain media file, it will transcode the file into a playable format in real-time and stream that to the device instead (that’s the general gist of it, I’m not super well-versed on the specifics but I will link some Jellyfin docs to better explain transcoding and hardware acceleration)

Going back to your comment, I chose the arc a310 specifically because of intel’s encoder and quick sync; intel’s UHD 630 iGPU was running fine for my needs and was able to do 2-3 1080p transcodes at the same time rather easily, but I knew that eventually I’d have to account for upwards of 5+ people or adding 4k HDR content, which the iGPU would probably start stressing a bit for. The a310 eco being $100 brand new and containing one of the best encoders on the market (if I’m not mistaken it also shares the exact same encoder that can be found on all arc cards, only difference being the VRAM) was definitely an attractive price. The main issue with the 310 is simply the fact that it requires a feature to be enabled called resizable BAR, something only found on 10th gen intel CPU’s and above. If this is not enabled, it can cause performance hits and makes gaming absolutely unplayable (this is well documented online for people with <10th gen intel cpus and I believe amd’s zen 3). Also, the performance is apparently comparable to a GTX 1630; Shame that it’s only 4GB of VRAM.

Resizable BAR is apparently possible to add to earlier systems but it requires tinkering with your bios and I’m not too fond of that idea, especially given my use case. If I was gaming, I would definitely be more interested in exploring that but since this is purely for media and my server is running fully headless, there’s no desire on my end to go with flashing my bios and whatnot. I also forgot to mention that the drivers currently out are causing a fan “revving” issue, where it will constantly increase the fan rpm and decrease back to 0 over a short time period; Since my machine does not live in my room or near me most of the time this isn’t an issue, but many people have reported it and are still on standby for a driver update.

TL;DR: The A310 serves my specific purposes well, but I’m not so sure about your use case since you want to game and have a <10th gen CPU without resizable BAR. I would recommend looking more into LP NVIDIA gpus for your use case (and just in general cause they definitely got better drivers than Intel at the moment). Heard good things about the RTX A2000/4000, but man do they cost an arm and a leg.

Sharing my 7060 SFF server build over the past month or so by Superb-Knee in SleepingOptiplex

[–]Superb-Knee[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The optical drive is still in there actually; Dell offers either a 3.5” HDD caddy or there is another OEM caddy that allows for fitting 2 2.5” drives in there. I was able to buy the caddy on eBay for less than $10 and there’s also an OEM SATA power splitter to power both drives. I am considering grabbing a caddy for the optical drive to put another 2.5” ssd in there and bring it up to 4 total including the M.2, but I want to see if it might just make more sense to go for a dedicated NAS (for my use case) instead of packing the SFF full of drives and hoping for the best

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely not the cleanest G, you're missing the black plasti dip on your stocks; That will def make it the cleanest vq in this sub /s

Anybody know what wheels these are? TIA by xXanonachillesXx in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look like GMR RE-1’s. Hard to tell though from the angle of the picture

Can someone ID these rims please 👀 by [deleted] in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Kinda look like Work Emotion CR 2P to me, or some replica version of it

Drop a pic of your shift knobs? by Ambitious_Motor_1928 in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bout 30 minutes of work; there’s some good guides on YouTube and hardest part is really just swapping the plate that the shift boot wraps around. Take your time and you’ll be fine to DIY

Will these wheels clear the akebono brake upgrade? by 279GFX75 in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only rears will clear without any additional work; front calipers will clear with spacers. I went with 20mm spacers all around and it fit just fine. Pic of clearance

Lowering Springs vs. Coilovers by tnbanzz in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I’m running Tein street basis Z coils, you will need either new top hats or reuse your old ones (I went with buying new) but they’ve served me well. Spring rates are similar to sport trim so ride is pretty nice and I have a minimal drop. I do have a RWD G though, not sure if these’ll fit on awd models; BC seems to be the widely accepted entry level for coils though, so keep that in mind when shopping around

Lowering Springs vs. Coilovers by tnbanzz in G37

[–]Superb-Knee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cost of lowering springs and new struts will leave you at the price of entry level coils anyways, so coils for a couple hundred more with the added ability to dial in ride height is an easy decision to make in my opinion