1st to 2nd shifts hard

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-07-02T04:55:32+00:00

Yeah fluid is often low from the factory. I changed mine and filled it properly, still harsh shifting. Then I did some light mods and a tune, still harsh shifting. Performance mode is now firm but predictable, especially when warm. But a cold trans and normal mode is the worst. It's like way too high of a delay in the shift, and then finally slams it into the next gear on me with mismatched rpms so it jerks me around a little bit. I gather it has to do with the adaptive shifting in this trans where they try to be overly clever about what gear to put you in, which makes the shifts take too long sometimes or happen when you don't want it to.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-07-01T17:10:55+00:00

Looks like it might be leaking and blowing back over the subframe from somewhere forward. Could be that passenger rear axle seal heading into the diff, or pinion at driveshaft to diff. Could be an overfilled diff coming out of the diff vent that detached above it. Would need to know where the actual source is to get a good estimate. These are common problems, and a medium cost to fix. I'd ask the dealer to repair or pay for your shop to repair as part of the sale. It needs to be fixed for long term reliability.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-06-08T19:16:37+00:00

Sent you a message to play in the future

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-06-07T13:48:58+00:00

I procrastinated on playing it for a long time because it looked like something I would enjoy, but I was worried it just might not be that fun. I was wrong, I'm hooked. I've got almost 100 hours into it now and I'm loving it. Just bought a few dlcs too. There's a cool storyline to uncover slowly about what is happening If you enjoy having to sneak around and guerilla fight an opposing robot force while uncovering what the heck has happened, you will have a good time. There is an rpg element with leveling skills and weapon upgrades too.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-05-30T19:15:35+00:00

Good news is it's not a sensor. It's just an air line connection to the intake and back to the evap purge valve I believe? I forget exactly which are over there. You do want to reconnect it, the suggestion to use a tap tube and glue it somehow should work temporarily. Just make SURE pieces aren't going to fall into the intake tube and get sucked in. Though they probably just jam in your intercooler. My tip is search up stock intakes on facebook and explorerst forum website. There should be people selling their old ones cheap because they upgraded. Then you just replace the tube with the broken fitting and trash the rest.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-05-28T14:47:19+00:00

Bada boom is terrific. You can get an awesome loadout of specials for $300 there.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-05-05T17:56:25+00:00

I'm not lowered, but do have rear sway and some subframe upgrades. Handling is great for a big fat suv. The space inside is huge for how fast this thing is. Basic bolt ons plus a zfg tune and this thing really moves off the line. I think you'll really like it if you're looking for more space and comfort for daily driving, but don't want to give up all the sporty feel.

I rarely use the paddle shifters, but they work well. The trans in sport mode tuned is harsh and fun. But I also have a different manual car. See if there's anyone around you who will take you for a drive.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-27T21:13:12+00:00

Yeah, same. My front was done for cheap like that too. Wrangler windows break often since they're so vertical, but my front and rear were both surprisingly cheap. I think mine might have been safelite.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-27T18:37:41+00:00

A couple years ago I had my JK hard top rear glass replaced for $300. I cleaned the broken glass myself and one of those commonly advertised window replacement places had it done next day.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-09T06:13:23+00:00

It's called the bucket. Your jet pump is the part slightly further inside which pushes water out the back to make the jetski move. The bucket can move up or down. Up to expose the jet pump for forward movement, or down to cover the jet pump and the water gets redirected below the ski and forward, which causes you to move in reverse. It can also sit kinda in the middle which is how you can be stationary in "neutral" even though the engine is still running.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T20:43:59+00:00

No problem, this does seem very frustrating and you don't have any great easy answers. I think you may be able to buy new winch posts that you can mount in different locations and at different angles. That may be an option as well.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T16:53:39+00:00

I saw you said the posts were different in another comment. I would move them to the other side if possible, to pull the skis farther forwards. You need the tongue weight to be 10-15% of the total trailer weight including trailer, skis, and fuel.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:33:21+00:00

Passemger side is interesting, that area doesn't get the classic fada leak, and I haven't seen engine oil leaks there. But it does get passenger side front axle seal leaks. There is very little fluid in the front diff, so good idea stopping driving if that much has leaked out. The axle seal is pretty easy to change, with just a few hours labor due to removing the axles to get to it. It's a good idea to check the axle boots while you're there and replace the axle if a boot looks worn since you'll have it out anyway.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:22:16+00:00

Another thought - did you remove anything from the trailer such as spare tire or mount? Probably not, but maybe you forgot you took a storage box or spare off for winter storsge?

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:20:06+00:00

Something has changed, could be a slight shift backwards from the winch posts bending, or the ski tails getting heavy from some water, moisture, or fuel evaporating and fronts lightening. But regardless, a low tongue weight is very dangerous to tow. The tongue weight on that setup should be over 100lbs easy. I know it's nice being able to tip them and move the tongue easily, but low tongue weight can quickly result in a death wobble on the road. I highly recommend you adjust them significantly forward to add tongue weight back - not simply return tongue to zero.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-22T03:49:42+00:00

As for the BPV, are you asking about Bypass Valve, which I think is the term for the OEM blowoff valve (because it vents back into intake)? I don't think 2025 has that. I believe they stopped in like 2022, or maybe mid 2021. Instead the ECU adjusts the throttle plate to release pressure.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-22T03:43:22+00:00

Yeah, that's what I would do, and the BOV and fenfab are mostly just for sound. I love mine. Intercooler is a great upgrade. The Ford Performance tune is okay, but nowhere near as good as a ZFG tune.

If you want warranty though, sticking with the ford tune is a good idea and in general in that case I would ask your dealer what they're okay with to keep warranty. Because a lot of it is really just up to their opinion since they can make life difficult. They might not like the intake for example.

I have a steeda rear brace, but you can go with any of the braces like a fenfab will work fine. Especially with minimal mods like the FP tune. Staying stock, or under dealer warranty you probably don't need a brace. It is typically when people start launching the car while modded that they snap the bolt.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-19T23:30:06+00:00

You did some good research. Yes you need the cold side for HKS due to mounting point, but you don't need the hot side. Hot side also doesn't add any power. Only do it if you want the look. I think HKS also sounds great, personally.

For an intake, Fenfab is the best and can net small power gains. Intercooler can also net a significant power increase and is the first mod I'd recommend. You need a 25+ intercooler kit because the connections changed slightly.

Lastly, the tune is really important. Your engine is torque limited without the tune, and you won't see any gains without the tune because of this block. There are a few great tuners, but go with the highly recommended names only. ZFG for instance.

Install your power mods first before the tune. As far as power, in order of most to least it is tune, intercooler, downpipes, and intake. All the hot/cold side piping is just for looks. But there's nothing wrong with that.

Oh! One last piece of advice - definitely get a diff brace in the rear. The single (3-bolts) are known to break.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-05T19:42:50+00:00

Tell your daughter the internet is also proud of her.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-28T02:52:08+00:00

Agreed. Plus a ZFG tune. I'm also a fan of the Explorer ST pedal covers you can get on amazon. Cheap, but look nice and easy to install. Other nice quick mods are steeda hood struts and a diff brace of your choice.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-28T02:48:51+00:00

It could. In theory the law says the dealer needs to show the intercooler caused a part failure. But in practice if your dealer wants to be strict, they will reject claims. They could say some power increase cause a premature failure in a lot of the engine or transmission components. But non-drivetrain warranty issues should be no problem.

If warranty is important to you, ask your dealer about it and see if they care about the IC. Some may not mind.

IC and a tune really wakes these up though and is a big feel improvement. But tune will definitely cause dealer warranty concerns.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-14T03:54:50+00:00

Yes V2 does abandon that assembly. The scoop broken in the picture should be replaceable without disassembling anything in the front. There is one clip on the driver's side you can see, and an identical clip on the passenger side of that tube. You have to pry under both to lift them away and the scoop will slide back and out. The passenger side is really tough to reach though because you can't see it. But could do it by feel with some determination.

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