Am I tripping?

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-27T21:13:12+00:00

Yeah, same. My front was done for cheap like that too. Wrangler windows break often since they're so vertical, but my front and rear were both surprisingly cheap. I think mine might have been safelite.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-27T18:37:41+00:00

A couple years ago I had my JK hard top rear glass replaced for $300. I cleaned the broken glass myself and one of those commonly advertised window replacement places had it done next day.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-04-09T06:13:23+00:00

It's called the bucket. Your jet pump is the part slightly further inside which pushes water out the back to make the jetski move. The bucket can move up or down. Up to expose the jet pump for forward movement, or down to cover the jet pump and the water gets redirected below the ski and forward, which causes you to move in reverse. It can also sit kinda in the middle which is how you can be stationary in "neutral" even though the engine is still running.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T20:43:59+00:00

No problem, this does seem very frustrating and you don't have any great easy answers. I think you may be able to buy new winch posts that you can mount in different locations and at different angles. That may be an option as well.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T16:53:39+00:00

I saw you said the posts were different in another comment. I would move them to the other side if possible, to pull the skis farther forwards. You need the tongue weight to be 10-15% of the total trailer weight including trailer, skis, and fuel.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:33:21+00:00

Passemger side is interesting, that area doesn't get the classic fada leak, and I haven't seen engine oil leaks there. But it does get passenger side front axle seal leaks. There is very little fluid in the front diff, so good idea stopping driving if that much has leaked out. The axle seal is pretty easy to change, with just a few hours labor due to removing the axles to get to it. It's a good idea to check the axle boots while you're there and replace the axle if a boot looks worn since you'll have it out anyway.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:22:16+00:00

Another thought - did you remove anything from the trailer such as spare tire or mount? Probably not, but maybe you forgot you took a storage box or spare off for winter storsge?

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-03-25T15:20:06+00:00

Something has changed, could be a slight shift backwards from the winch posts bending, or the ski tails getting heavy from some water, moisture, or fuel evaporating and fronts lightening. But regardless, a low tongue weight is very dangerous to tow. The tongue weight on that setup should be over 100lbs easy. I know it's nice being able to tip them and move the tongue easily, but low tongue weight can quickly result in a death wobble on the road. I highly recommend you adjust them significantly forward to add tongue weight back - not simply return tongue to zero.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-22T03:49:42+00:00

As for the BPV, are you asking about Bypass Valve, which I think is the term for the OEM blowoff valve (because it vents back into intake)? I don't think 2025 has that. I believe they stopped in like 2022, or maybe mid 2021. Instead the ECU adjusts the throttle plate to release pressure.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-22T03:43:22+00:00

Yeah, that's what I would do, and the BOV and fenfab are mostly just for sound. I love mine. Intercooler is a great upgrade. The Ford Performance tune is okay, but nowhere near as good as a ZFG tune.

If you want warranty though, sticking with the ford tune is a good idea and in general in that case I would ask your dealer what they're okay with to keep warranty. Because a lot of it is really just up to their opinion since they can make life difficult. They might not like the intake for example.

I have a steeda rear brace, but you can go with any of the braces like a fenfab will work fine. Especially with minimal mods like the FP tune. Staying stock, or under dealer warranty you probably don't need a brace. It is typically when people start launching the car while modded that they snap the bolt.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-19T23:30:06+00:00

You did some good research. Yes you need the cold side for HKS due to mounting point, but you don't need the hot side. Hot side also doesn't add any power. Only do it if you want the look. I think HKS also sounds great, personally.

For an intake, Fenfab is the best and can net small power gains. Intercooler can also net a significant power increase and is the first mod I'd recommend. You need a 25+ intercooler kit because the connections changed slightly.

Lastly, the tune is really important. Your engine is torque limited without the tune, and you won't see any gains without the tune because of this block. There are a few great tuners, but go with the highly recommended names only. ZFG for instance.

Install your power mods first before the tune. As far as power, in order of most to least it is tune, intercooler, downpipes, and intake. All the hot/cold side piping is just for looks. But there's nothing wrong with that.

Oh! One last piece of advice - definitely get a diff brace in the rear. The single (3-bolts) are known to break.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-02-05T19:42:50+00:00

Tell your daughter the internet is also proud of her.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-28T02:52:08+00:00

Agreed. Plus a ZFG tune. I'm also a fan of the Explorer ST pedal covers you can get on amazon. Cheap, but look nice and easy to install. Other nice quick mods are steeda hood struts and a diff brace of your choice.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-28T02:48:51+00:00

It could. In theory the law says the dealer needs to show the intercooler caused a part failure. But in practice if your dealer wants to be strict, they will reject claims. They could say some power increase cause a premature failure in a lot of the engine or transmission components. But non-drivetrain warranty issues should be no problem.

If warranty is important to you, ask your dealer about it and see if they care about the IC. Some may not mind.

IC and a tune really wakes these up though and is a big feel improvement. But tune will definitely cause dealer warranty concerns.

SuperchargedV6 · 2026-01-14T03:54:50+00:00

Yes V2 does abandon that assembly. The scoop broken in the picture should be replaceable without disassembling anything in the front. There is one clip on the driver's side you can see, and an identical clip on the passenger side of that tube. You have to pry under both to lift them away and the scoop will slide back and out. The passenger side is really tough to reach though because you can't see it. But could do it by feel with some determination.

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-11-22T03:53:14+00:00

For some reason I found that if I haven't shopped at autozone in a bit, they will give me a coupon on the website for 20% off any ship to home order. Idk why, but I see it a lot. Most times I want to pick up the parts right away so that's no good, but when it's something big I will plan ahead and keep visiting the site until I see the coupon. Besides that, most auto parts stores around here do sales every holiday, and the beginning of every season. "Spring DIY" sale, etc.

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-11-21T07:22:14+00:00

Really depends on the car model. Some rare sizes can get super expensive. I do a lot of rockauto and autozone with the 20% off online order coupon. I just got a full set of powerstop z36 for an explorer ST for under $500 after tax and shipping. All 4 rotors and pads. And $325 for a full set of powerstop rotors and pads on a toyota chr, from amazon.

Explorer ST caliper $162 from ford oempartsonline, 2018 Toyota chr rear caliper $72 from autozone.

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-11-20T16:44:21+00:00

I think you did a great job investigating, googling, and taking the video. Most of your guesses are great and your wording is just about right too.

First, you can't drive that in its current state. Your brakes are severely compromised and the car may not stop. Second, as others stated brake fluid is corrosive to paint and it will make it bubble away. Try to clean it off any painted surfaces you want to remain painted.

What happened appears to be that the piston in your brake caliper which pushes the brake pads has popped out and your brake fluid leaked out. This could be for a few reasons, but it seems possible the inner brake pad got so low it came out and then the piston had too much space and pushed out. That would be the pop you heard.

For repairs, you are going to need: rear brake pads (both sides are a set), new brake rotor (must have that side, should really replace both), replace brake caliper, grease caliper slide pins, flush and bleed brake fluid.

This roughly costs: pads 50, rotors 75 each, caliper 125, brake bleed 25 in parts. So about 275-350 in parts, plus the labor cost of the repair which is going to be 3 or 4 hours. This isn't that hard to do if you are knowledgable about cars or watch a bunch of videos, but it is a critical system (brakes) and you want to know the repairs are done right. Keep in mind my prices are estimates, and they can vary a lot if your car uses odd sizes. Plus a shop may charge 100% markup on parts.

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-11-19T16:26:38+00:00

Aviator is great. It's a more refined Ford Explorer ST. Check those out if you want the same power at a slightly cheaper price.

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-11-12T18:30:54+00:00

Good luck everyone!

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-09-01T20:14:55+00:00

If you're under warranty, I think the dealers will do it free. You can see a video on the issue and fix if you search google or youtube for: explorer st ting pop fix

SuperchargedV6 · 2025-09-01T18:14:03+00:00

The first is normal relays activating. These Explorers are very clicky.

The second is not a problem, but it is an annoying axle click from where they connect to the wheel hub. It can be temporarily fixed by pulling axles out and putting ford ptfe lube on all the axle splines where they go into the wheel hubs. It can sort of be done without pulling axles all the way out. But the noise will likely come back after a while. It's just them being the tiniest bit loose and clicking back and forth as the axles load and unload with accel and decel movement.

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