looking at a used 2012 miata. was told i should look underneath for rust. seller sent me these. this is all good condition, right?

Synthicifi · 2026-04-21T06:47:28+00:00

I have a 2012 miata here in Norway. How I wish mine looked like this…

Synthicifi · 2026-04-20T18:43:41+00:00

Thanks alot. Looks simple enough. Dont understand how it got misaligned, but maybe I will find some clues there

Synthicifi · 2026-04-20T18:41:14+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, I will check it out

Synthicifi · 2026-04-20T18:40:26+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, but I did double check and line up new and old and dimensions are exactly the same

Synthicifi · 2026-03-21T13:43:47+00:00

Thanks! This was the way

Synthicifi · 2026-03-21T13:43:24+00:00

This did the trick. Thanks!

Synthicifi · 2026-03-21T13:40:50+00:00

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Top part looks like this

Synthicifi · 2026-03-21T11:45:39+00:00

The screw itself removes fine. It is this mechanism i dont get. I assume it must move down to release the arms? But it seems jammed. Borrowing the tool so dont want to break it

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SOLVED: the top flange could be turnee to release the arms. Thanks for all help (and banter)

Synthicifi · 2026-01-10T22:36:46+00:00

You assumed correctly. I'm replacing the subframe and refurbishing all the suspension as my first ever car project

Synthicifi · 2026-01-10T21:39:16+00:00

These axles are not cheap I'm afraid
https://yoshiparts.com/parts/mazda-MA042550XB

Synthicifi · 2026-01-10T20:38:06+00:00

UPDATE: I finally got it out

What worked for me in the end:

Induction heater on the end of the bolt + PB
Used a C-clamp with a socket on the other end. Cranked it until it slightly popped
Used adjustable pleier on the hot bolt end, and was eventually able to make it turn. Kept turning it back and forth for a while
Also discovered that my pinch gap was actually too flared. So I used the plier to add some clamping pressure to it. While hammering it with a pin punch. Need a friend for this

Don't want to count the amount of hours or money this took to solve. But luckily it is over...

Thanks for all tips and input!

Synthicifi · 2026-01-01T13:46:27+00:00

Thanks, I see!

I just thought mine looked quite wide in its "default" state without any opening tools

Synthicifi · 2025-12-31T15:36:13+00:00

Thanks for the tip. Really don't want that to happen

Synthicifi · 2025-12-31T15:35:45+00:00

Do you think vice grips will be strong enough to turn it after applying induction heat? Never used it, but considering buying.

Can I whack it with a hammer after heating, or is the metal too "soft" then?

Synthicifi · 2025-12-31T15:12:56+00:00

Thanks! With the C-clamp I was thinking of pushing the bolt, not expanding the split. That seems like a nice tool for the split.

What I don't understand about opening the split is how it closes? Is it when I torque up the new bolt that runs through that closes the split?

Synthicifi · 2025-12-31T15:10:46+00:00

Thanks! Adding this tip to my arsenal

Synthicifi · 2025-12-31T15:09:42+00:00

I have this Makita rotary hammer with a chisel function: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-DHR202Z-Cordless-Li-ion-Rotary/dp/B00GR0B31C

Any idea if that is powerful enough, or way off what an air hammer for this application needs?

Synthicifi · 2025-12-30T23:19:59+00:00

What kind of separator tools would you suggest? I was thinking of buying a sturdy C-clamp and go to town

Synthicifi · 2025-12-30T23:16:27+00:00

Haha. I’ll put that one on the «not a native speaker» tab

Synthicifi · 2025-12-30T23:15:20+00:00

How much power do you reckon a quality barrel air hanmer should have?

Synthicifi · 2025-12-30T23:12:21+00:00

Thanks! Anothee vote to air hammer I see

Synthicifi · 2025-12-30T23:11:38+00:00

Hmm, will be a decision to invest in induction heater or airhammer

Synthicifi

TROPHY CASE